Timepieces From Swiss Watch at JCK

The Girard-Perregaux ww.tc Dark Night

At the recently held Swiss Watch at JCK tradeshow in Las Vegas, luxury watch brands and North American buyers were out in force. It is one of several jewelry industry tradeshows being held at the time so I only caught a glimpse of what was happening but it was quite an impressive look. What follows is a short list of luxury timepieces that got my attention at the show.

The ww.tc Dark Night, a new “dark” version of the Girard-Perregaux world-timer, released at JCK (top picture), features a 43 mm black ceramic case with a tinted sapphire case back that discloses the movement. The strength and lightweight of the ceramic structure is enhanced by an internal titanium container. Rubber coated crowns, push buttons and a black rubber strap supplement its sporty characteristics. The timepiece uses a Girard-Perregaux GP03387 self-winding movement, designed specifically for this model. It displays the time in 24 time zones with day and night indicator, date and fly-back chronograph. Exclusive to the U.S. market, this watch is limited to 25 units.

One of the pieces being showcased in North America by Carl F. Bucherer was the Manero ChronoPerpetual (above), which features a perpetual calendar with correction-free indication of the date, day of the week, month and moon phase. The mechanism recognizes the different lengths of the months and knows when the next leap year is imminent, and is thus able to counter the arbitrary features of the Gregorian calendar. The watch has a limited run of 100 units.

Frederique Constant introduced the new Classics Manufacture (above), based on the second generation of the Maxime movement, caliber FC-710, and features an added center seconds hand. The silver dial has a central “guilloché” decoration. The brand, which prides itself on its “accessible luxury” philosophy, is offering this product with a starting price of 1,750 euros (USD $2,144) in stainless steel. The watch is also available with a rose gold plated case for 1,950 (USD $2,390).

For the ladies, Girard-Perregaux introduced the latest model from its Cat’s Eye collection (above). This jewelry watch is draped in 150 emerald-cut precious stones The dial, adorned with a delicate “Clous de Paris” hobnail motif, includes 102 emerald-cut diamonds. The “Clou de Paris” hobnail motif consists of holding several stones with a single “clou” or pin, meaning that the diamond cutter must cut and calibrate the stones one by one. A taupe-colored satin strap enhances the sparkle of the stones. An ardillon buckle set with 13 baguette-cut diamonds encircles the wrist. The hand-engraved case back opens onto the caliber GP033R0 self-winding movement.

Las Vegas Jewelry Week

Mandalay Bay, the new home of JCK Las Vegas

The upcoming week in Las Vegas is going to be one of the most important for the U.S. jewelry industry in some time. The performance of jewelry trade shows for the next several days will help determine whether the industry is returning to a period of sustained growth following the single event of the economic meltdown of 2008, or if it is the victim of something bigger and more widespread—a cultural and technological change that is steamrolling traditional ways of assessing luxury, beauty and fashion; while providing new ways of delivering messages and products that are beyond the reach of an aging industry.

Of course the big news is that one of the largest and most successful shows in the international jewelry industry—JCK Las Vegas and its affiliate shows, Luxury at JCK and Swiss Watch at JCK—will be held for the first time at Mandalay Bay.

The change is the result of some downsizing and rightsizing due to recent economic realities and competition within the industry. Celebrating its 20th year, JCK Las Vegas has always been held at the Sands Expo & Convention Center, one of the largest conventions facilities in the country, which along with the adjacent Venetian Las Vegas offers approximately 1.8 million square-feet of space. The show was so successful that even in this space there was an annual waiting list of hundreds of companies.

Things changed dramatically during the 2008 global economic meltdown, which resulted in a dramatic shrinkage of the jewelry industry. No more waiting lists. More empty spaces. Fewer buyers. So now the show will be held at the newer, nicer although smaller space. Still, at 1 million square feet, it is huge by normal expo space standards.

Things have been changing for some time as other jewelry shows have opened and taken away some JCK exhibitors. The most notable change is that what has been termed JCK Las Vegas for years by the industry is now known in the industry as “Las Vegas Jewelry Week” or “Las Vegas Jewelry Market Week.”

The week begins with JCK at Luxury (May 31 – June 6). The first three days of the show is an invitation only gathering of luxury jewelry retailers and consumer press, which the show has been since its inception. The next four days, the show is open for all of those attending JCK Las Vegas. This is in no doubt in recognition of the only segment of the jewelry industry that continues to grow during this sluggish recovery. Autore, Breuning, Carl Messler and Danhov are among the approximate 230 luxury exhibitors at the show.

Swiss Watch at JCK (June 2 - 6) remains an appointment only event. There is no desire and seemingly no need for the luxury Swiss watch industry to change the way it does business as it continues to experience exceptional sales growth and consumer passion for its timepieces. Exhibitors run from Breitling to Zenith who will be seeing buyers in suites at the Mandalay Bay Hotel and the Four Seasons Hotel in the same building.

Wynn Las Vegas, home of the Couture Show.  Photo Credit: Destination360

The Couture Show, over in the Wynn Las Vegas (June 2 – 6), features some of the best-known high-end jewelry brands in the world, including Damiani, John Hardy, David Yurman, Judith Ripka, Kwiat, Mikimoto, Roberto Coin and Stephen Webster. These are among the companies that broke off with JCK Las Vegas to form a show that is specific to their niche in the industry. In the past, the show lived off its close proximity to the Sands Convention Center. The question this year is whether enough buyers will want to make the trip from the south end of the strip to the Wynn. There are certainly enough destination brands for buyers to make the trip.

The American Gem Trade Association attached itself to JCK Las Vegas a number of years ago with its own show, AGTA GemFair Las Vegas. The collection of gem and pearl dealers from all over the world will continue its successful association with JCK at Mandalay Bay (June 2 – 7).

Then there’s JCK Las Vegas (June 3 – 6), still the dominate jewelry trade show on “The Strip” even if its status is slightly tarnished. This show contains all aspects of the jewelry industry from bridal to manufacturing equipment and technology suppliers. Low-, mid-, and high-end tiers of the market are resented as well as international jewelry manufacturers.

Planet Hollywood is the location for Niche: The Show

Finally there’s Niche: The Show at Planet Hollywood (June 4 – 6). This is show dedicated for designers of handcrafted jewelry and other materials and mediums, such as glass, ceramic and wood. This event is an answer to the long-term struggle small jewelry designers had at JCK. The show was just too big and attracted too many buyers from large-scale operations with orders that these types small businesses couldn’t fill.

There are other shows as well, specializing in antiques, dedicated for watch dealers and for bead makers that round out the festivities. But it’s the major trade shows that will determine the shape and scope of what the U.S. jewelry industry will look like in the coming years.

Many in the industry will be crossing their fingers.