Damiani Basks in the Glow of its Movie Star Power

Tilda Swinton wearing Damiani Chignon earrings in "Io sono l’amore."

Tilda Swinton and Sophia Loren provide the star power for Italian jewelry house Damiani for two separate events in different parts of the world. 

Damiani Chignon ring

First, in Los Angeles the Hollywood Foreign Press Association announced its nominees Tuesday for the 68th Annual Golden Globe Awards. The Italian film, Io sono l’amore (I am Love), directed by Luca Guadadigno, was nominated for Best Foreign Language Film in 2010. Damiani played an important role in the stylish film by adorning the star of the movie, Tilda Swinton, in jewels throughout the entire production.

Swinton portrays the patriarch of one Milan’s upper class bourgeois dynasties. Her depiction is rendered all the more credible by the addition of Damiani’s jewels from the house’s Masterpieces collections, among which are the ring and earrings from the Chignon collection. (Left, Swinton and Silvia Damiani on the set of  "I am Love")  

This is not the first time the actress and Damiani shared the spotlight with the luxury jewelry house. In 2008, when Swinton was presented with the Academy Award for Best Supporting Actress, she donned herself with Damiani jewels. It continues to be a winning combination.

Giorgio Damiani and Sophia Loren arrive at the Damiani boutique in the Thuraya Mall in Kuwait

Meanwhile, in November, Sophia Loren was the undisputed star during a tour of the Middle East promoting the Sophia Loren Collection. Loren, along with Giorgio Damiani, Damiani Group VP, and the local Damiani partners, visited Kuwait, Qatar and Dubai to meet local VIPs, personalities and customers at the Damiani Boutiques.

Sophia Loren jewelry by Damiani earrings

Events were held at Damiani boutiques in the Dubai Mall in Dubai (with the former captain of the Italian Football National Team, Fabio Cannavaro); the Thuraya Mall in Kuwait; and the Blue Salon in Qatar, with H.R.H. Sheikh Hassan Bin Mohamed Bin Ali Al Thani.

Loren first introduced in the jewelry collection in March during the Oscar awards in Los Angeles.

Italian Gold Jewelry the Focus of Arezzo Tradeshow

Nemesi

The city of Arezzo is a gold jewelry manufacturing center that symbolizes Italian design and craftsmanship. It’s where jewelry for the masses meets with the artistry and craftsmanship that are the hallmarks of Italian jewelry design.

Unoaerre

It is in this Tucson region where the Gold/Italy jewelry trade fair was held, October 25-27. With its focus on Italian jewelry design and craftsmanship from 220 companies in the region, the show attracted jewelry industry professionals throughout Italy and from 50 countries around the world. 

Eurocatene

Fashion was a big focus of this year’s show with runway events matching jewelry to apparel ranging from street clothes to elaborate gowns. It’s not going to be a one-year theme as the officials of the local gold jewelry industry sees its future as a partner with fashion companies. 

Artur Gold

“Made in Italy jewelry is the result of excellent manufacturing skill and a historical goldsmith tradition. We have an extraordinary product which must be taken advantage of. Only those who innovate can hope to change the world,” said Andrea Boldi, president of Arezzo Fiere e Congressi, which owns Gold/Italy and Oroarezzo. “Arezzo is the home of jewelry, and in our territory, we have always been linked to another top quality and world famous excellence, fashion.”

Fratelli Chini

He added, “We are working towards having buyers from the fashion world directly at the show because, nowadays, in an increasingly dynamic and global world, we must be able to create further business links. For this show, we have managed to achieve an important result. We will have 240 top international buyers who are estimated to create over 1.5 billion dollars in Made in Italy sales.”

Fratelli Bovo

This year’s show provided a good representation of the region’s artistry, with new creative designs, more traditional solid-gold fare, mixed jewelry pieces incorporating precious and semiprecious stones, and silver jewelry.

Gruppo Eclat

One of the things these artisans do well is create designs using finely woven gold mesh, in threads that in some cases are half the thickness of a human hair, shaped and molded into elaborate necklaces, earrings, brooches, and bracelets. The same type of variety and detail is present in gold-beaded pieces. Big, bold pieces, something Italians are noted for, were also evident as well color in many of the designs.

Mulino d'Oro

Two companies, Fratelli Bovo and Fratelli Chini, provided different examples of the mesh technique, with the first shaping the fine gold threads in a corkscrew pattern for a necklace, earrings and ring set; while the latter uses crisscross patterns that extend out into a series of semicircles for a bracelet. 

New Line

Unoaerre created a fine-beaded bracelet in a woven pattern that looked like ribbon. Another bracelet by Gruppo Eclat mixed yellow gold with a brown colored gold finished for a two-color thick bracelet in a tight woven pattern. 

Prestige

A few years ago, jewelry manufacturer, Nemesi, turned to 3D printing to create its jewels and now 90 percent of its pieces are made with this technology, which has freed the company creatively, said Paolo Cerofolini. “We can do anything,” he said. “The only limit is the market.” 

Aqua

He adds that the company has been in “full production” for the past five years and business continues to pick up as the price of gold has declined. 

Nemesi’s offerings included a two-stone ring made with threads of gold in random-like patterns and topped with a Japanese cultured pearl and a round faceted citrine. 

The Graziella Group provides jewelry in gold and silver in classic, modern and fashion designs for women of all ages. Its products extend to accessories, such as leather handbags and a quartz watch line. They sell to retailers and directly to consumers. Its major markets are in the Middle East, Dubai, Russia and China. 

Serena Cutini, a sales representative with the company, said it was not affected by the global downturn.

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OroArezzo Brings 'Golden Hat_titude' to the Hong Kong Jewelry Fair

The Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair has become an international event in the jewelry industry and one of the countries with the strongest presence at the show was Italy. 

About 175 Italian companies participated in the fair ranging from the artistic talent of Annamaria Cammilli Gioielli to the world-renowned luxury brand, Roberto Coin. The strongest presence at the fair among the Italians was OroArezzo, which hosts an annual trade fair in Arezzo, Italy, the heart of the Italian gold jewelry industry. Along with the jewelry manufacturers at the show, the organization also brought an art installation that combines jewelry and fashion: The two things that are positively Italian. 

The exhibition called Golden Hat_titude, uses high-quality hats from Borsalino, considered by many to be the finest hat maker in the world, with gold jewelry created by the jewelry manufacturers who participate in OroArezzo. Vogue Gioiello, a partner of the OroArezzo tradeshow also partnered the exhibit.

The hats and jewelry were displayed inside an immensely large red and black case in the third floor lobby of the Hong Kong Convention Exhibition Centre. Inside the case the heads and upper bodies of 18 black mannequins were adorned with fashion-forward hats and matching jewelry. The inside of the case is colored blacked and include mirrors, which makes the display appear even larger. The result is individual works of art through different mediums in an environment that brings the works together while maintaining their individuality. 

New Italian Jewelry Designs from VicenzaOro

The subtle differences of the two tones of gold color and the texture of the precious metal are the hallmarks of Anna Maria Cammilli. The simplicity of this nature-inspired motif is used throughout the collection in complicated ways. Diamond accents enhance the design.

The recently concluded VicenzaOro Fall jewelry tradeshow may have marked a turning point for the Italian jewelry industry, which has been suffering due to the global recession, the spike in gold prices and high labor costs.

The butterfly from Damiani uses yellow gold accented by brown and white diamonds, and amethysts. Each butterfly is made with a variety of material combinations and can be worn as a pendant, brooch or set onto a ring.

At this year’s show, held September 7 -11, approximately, 1,200 Italian and foreign brands from 30 countries presented a breadth of jewelry products to more than 18,000 buyers (10,879 from Italy and 7,160 from 111 other countries).

18k yellow gold cuff with diamond pavé accent by Chimento.

Show officials were particularly excited about the “return” of some Italian retailers, seeing it as “an encouraging sign considering the much-desired end of the most critical phase of the recession.”

A silver star-shaped ring with a white pearl by Mayumi.

The show numbers coincide with data from the Italian government reporting second quarter growth for Italian jewelry exports, after two years of decline. Growth was recorded in terms of value (6%) and quantity (2.6%) over the same period of the previous year. Exports to the US, the world’s largest jewelry market, increased 12 percent in value in the second quarter.

From Fope’s Flex’it collection, patented ‘roll on’ mesh chain bracelets are crafted in 18k gold and fully flexible, without clasps. The Niue line is designed with a refined version of the classic gold mesh, enriched with black or white diamonds, multiple rondels and limited edition pink sapphire or gold cognac diamond balls.

“Among the industry players there is an atmosphere of moderate confidence,” show officials said.

Rose gold bracelet in a flowing design partially covered with white diamond pave by I Gregori Milano.

VicenzaOro, held four times a year, serves as a showcase of beautiful objects that combine artistry, international fashion trends and technical knowhow. Italian fine jewelry in terms of design and craftsmanship is unparalleled in the world of jewelry making. On this level, the show did not disappoint.

Inspired by the Boboli Gardens this collection of handmade jewellery by Nouvelle Bague uses in gold and diamonds, combined with colored enamel.

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Rings from Porrati with white pearls and rose gold; with pink sapphires set on rose gold; a rose gold ring; and a thin rose gold band set with pink sapphires.

 

I added a piece from Brazilian designer Carla Amorim who was inspired by the formation of sand dunes for these rose gold earrings.

Gitanjali Set to Pay Nearly $33M for Italian Brands

Mehul Choksi

 We’re learning more about Gitanjali Group’s bid for five Italian brands.

Reuters reports that Mehul Choksi, Gitanjali chairman and managing director, is prepared to pay $32.7 million for the DIT Group (which owns four brands) and Valente and expects to reap $100 million from the acquisition in two years.

DIT is a unit of Dubai jewelry maker Damas International and owns the brands Stefan Hafner, IO Si, Porrati, and Nouvelle Bague. Meanwhile, Valente is owned by Mariella Burani Fashion Group.

Gitanjali Group, which trades in India under the name Gitanjali Gems Ltd., is India’s largest diamond jewelry manufacturer and retailer. Its business portfolio includes rough diamond sourcing, cutting, polishing, jewelry manufacture and distribution to its jewelry branding and retail operations. Its brands include Gili, Nakshatra, Asmi, Sangini, D’damas, Vivaaha and Giantti.

Read more.

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Gitanjali Bids for Two Italian Jewelry Companies

Mehul Choksi

Gitanjali Group has made public the names of two Italian jewelry companies it plans to buy, Bloomberg BusinessWeek reports.

Mehul Choksi, chairman and managing director of Mumbai-India based company, said Friday that the company has placed bids for DIT Group and a company identified as “Valente.”

DIT Group, based in Valenza, operates four Italian brands that focus on contemporary luxury and Italian design. They are Stefan Hafner, Io Sì, Porrati and Nouvelle Bague.

Valente may be the former Valente Milano jewelry brand, known for high-design luxury jewelry. The company reportedly went out of business in April. However, its exclusive distributor in the U.S., Opera Jewels LLC, launched a line that debuted in Las Vegas in June, called “Opera Omnia,” with the Valente staff that is designed to stay true to the Valente style. I will try to verify if this is the brand that Gitanjali is bidding for.

At the end of August, JNN noted that Choksi told an Indian television network that he is finalizing a deal for an Italian brand, but refused to reveal the name of the company. It turns out now that it he was interested in two companies. He said at the time the idea is to market this brand’s products throughout the company’s growing international network, which includes the Samuels and Rogers jewelry chain in the U.S., more than 20 retail brands in India and retail outlets in the Middle East, China and Japan.

Gitanjali Group, which trades in India under the name Gitanjali Gems Ltd., is India’s largest diamond jewelry manufacturer and retailer. Its business portfolio includes rough diamond sourcing, cutting, polishing, jewelry manufacture and distribution to its jewelry branding and retail operations. Its brands include Gili, Nakshatra, Asmi, Sangini, D’damas, Vivaaha and Giantti.

Richline Group to Buy Fifth Italian Jewelry Brand

Warren Buffett seems to be attracted to Italian jewelry companies. ©AP Photo/ Kathy Willens

Jewelry company Richline International, will buy Italian jewelry brand, Carniani, Reuters reports.

The acquisition includes the production, design, intellectual property and distribution rights of the Italian jewelry brand.

Richline International is based in Arezzo, Italy, an area known for gold jewelry manufacturing and design. It is fully owned by Berkshire Hathaway's Richline Group, a global jewelry manufacturer. This will be the company's fifth jewelry brand acquisition as the it plans to expand further in Italy. In May, the company announced the acquisition of 7Ar, Erz and Farinex jewelry brands. Berkshire Hathaway is led by billionaire investor Warren Buffett.

The Richline Group was formed in 2007 and includes a diverse group of jewelry brands specializing in metals, gemstones and design. They include Andin, Aurafin, AuraGem, Bel-Oro, Michael Anthony and Tru-Kay.

Julianne Moore’s Bulgari Ad Too Hot for Venice

A billboard advertisement for luxury Italian jeweler Bulgari featuring actress Julianne Moore has been banned in Venice for being a bit too risqué, according to media reports.

The billboard, which was to be displayed on Doge's Palace overlooking St. Mark's Square, features the actress lying naked, covered by a handbag and two lion cubs. Recently elected Mayor Giorgio Orsoni blocked the use of the billboard on the city's landmark, reportedly saying it isn’t appropriate for the famed square.

A different image, showing Moore fully clothed and wearing Bulgari jewelry, will be displayed instead, according to media reports.

Jaeger-LeCoultre at the 2013 Venice Film Festival

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso engraved 70 Mostra

Today I will be leaving for Venice to cover the About J luxury jewelry show, perhaps the most exclusive jewelry show in the world. About 30 luxury jewelry brands will be exhibiting. Then I will be covering VicenzaOro Fall, the most prestigious collection of jewelry tradeshows for Italian jewelry industry.

Actress Sarah Gadon wearing Jaeger-LeCoultre La Montre Extraordinaire La Rose  while attending the Emergency charity VFF 2013. Photo credit: Getty images

However, I am arriving a few days early and as luck would have it, it happens to be during the 70th Venice International Film Festival (August 28 – September 7. Luxury watch brand Jaeger-LeCoultre, which is celebrating its 180th anniversary, is a sponsoring partner of the festival and has been hosting events and creating products for the event.

British actress, Sophie Kennedy Clark was on the red carpet with Laurent Vinay debuting the Reverso Cordonnet Duetto watch made its debut on the Red Carpet as B Sophie Kennedy Clark. The actress stars in the film, Philomena, which will premiere during the Festival.

The Swiss luxury watch brand has created a personalized Reverso watch to the winners of the Best Film (Leone d’Oro, Golden Lion Award) as well as the Best Actress and Best Actor of the year (Coppa Volpi Awards). The watches will feature a lacquered engraving depicting a lion, the symbol of Venice, handcrafted in accordance with the finest traditions, and bear the inscription “70. Mostra” (top photo).

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso engraved 70 Mostra Eemergency

For the third consecutive year Jaeger-LeCoultre will use its products and brand to support the Emergency, a non-governmental organization that helps civilian victims of wars and poverty. This includes the creation of a personalized Reverso watch with the same engravings and symbol as the official Venice Film Festival watch, with the addition of “Emergency” as part of the inscription (pictured above).

La Montre Extraordinaire La Rose

Jaeger-LeCoultre will also release a new collection called Jubliee. From the opening day to closing of the festival the company is hosting events throughout Venice. I will be attending two events during my short time at the festival going attending the jewelry shows I came to see.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Cordonnet Duetto

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Flexibility and Harmony Combine with Mattioli ‘Yin Yang’ Rings

The two opposing principles of Chinese philosophy is the inspiration behind the new, colorful “Yin Yang” collection of rings from Mattioli. 

The Italian luxury jewelry brand always emphasizes versatility in its designs and this new collection adds to this philosophy. All of the rings consist of two interchangeable curved gold bands of various colors with the use of colored diamonds and other gems create a range of design possibilities. In addition to colorful combinations, the collection uses several surface textures, from polished smooth to the textured brilliance of pavé. 

“The intersecting components can easily be joined to form a beautiful ring with a special look that the wearer creates for herself. There are many combinations to be made by interchanging elements of different colors of gold or with different gemstones or diamond colors,” the company said. “The opulent, rounded effect of a ring is continuously reborn, offering a new, fascinating harmony every single time.”

Elements include polished white, pink or black gold paired with themselves, or alternated with precious elements enhanced by white brown or black diamonds, or with iolite and tsavorite.

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Bulgari First Half 2011 Sales Up 23%

First half 2011 sales for the Bulgari Group increased 23.6 percent, year-over-year, at current exchange rates to 548 million euro ($784 million). At comparable exchange rates the increase was 23.3 percent. The luxury jewelry house reported an operating profit of 15.3 million euro ($21.8) and a net profit of 9.1 million euro ($13 million) for the period.

During the first six months of the year, all product categories contributed to the growth, the Rome-based company said. Jewelry sales increased 20.2 percent at current exchange rates to 243 million euro ($347.6 million) due to the strong sales of its B.zero1, its high-jewelry line; a new ceramics collections; and Sassi, its medium-high end collection.

Watch sales grew 26 percent for the period to 111.1 million euro ($159 million), led by the “excellent results” of its women’s watch, Serpenti, and its complicated men’s models, including new versions of its Octo model.

Perfume and cosmetics sales increased 27 percent to 129.7 million euro ($185.5) for the period, led by the new launches of Mon Jasmin Noir and MAN. Accessories segment sales grew by 24.2 percent.

All geographical areas “performed exceedingly well” for the first-half 2011 period, the company said. Sales in Europe grew 18.6 percent (Italy increased 11.1 percent), the Americas were up 16.1 percent and Japan increased 4.6 percent. Sales for the rest of Asia grew by 44.2 led by a 59.5 percent growth in sales in mainland China. Sales in the Middle East and other areas increased 34.3 percent.

In March, Bulgari announced that Paris-based luxury conglomerate, LVMH, acquired a majority stake in the company. The two companies are in the process of working through the legal and logistical hurdles to bring Bulgari into the LVMH group.

Two Young Italian Jewelry Brands Bring Bold New Designs to the US

Italian Design Ltd. Snow White Red Apple Ring

Even the Italian jewelry industry needs new blood to bring innovative ideas to its storied design and craftsmanship tradition. Two new companies have heeded the call and more recently brought their new designs to the US by way of Las Vegas jewelry week.

Italian Design Ltd. and Qayten J.E.T. have little in common except a desire to bring a modern approach to the great tradition of Italian jewelry craftsmanship and design.

Italian Design Ltd. Snow White Red Apple Ring opened to reveal Snow White.

Silvia and Alberto Prandoni, the sibling founders of Italian Design Ltd. are proud of their Italian design heritage. However, they are equally influenced by traditional bespoke and limited editions jewelry created by international luxury jewelry houses, such as Bulgari, Van Cleef & Arpels and Tiffany & Co. The four-year-old company produces jewelry with innovative designs and precious materials (particularly colored gems) that tell intimate stories.

Italian Design Ltd. Lava Earrings made with irregular-shaped fire opals.

“We want to go back to haute jewelry design choosing stones and materials of absolute quality, interpreted with an original design that will adapt to and reflect individual personalities,” said Alberto Prandoni, the company’s CEO. “We create unique pieces or a limited number of up to eight pieces. We propose color variations and modifications to perfectly satisfy the desires of those who turn to us for our customization capabilities.”

There's also a good bit of whimsy and versatility incorporated into their jewelry. Some pieces are designed to be worn several ways. For example, the top of the “Snow White Red Apple Ring” opens to reveal Snow White. The ring can then be converted to a necklace and other uses. 

Italian Design Ltd.  Circus Ring can be worn multiple ways.

“We design rings, bracelets or necklaces as if they were living objects with their own personal stories,” he added.

“Our approach enables us to reach the individual and to interpret his or her requests,” Silvia Prandoni said. “It is certainly a less direct path but one that gives great satisfaction.” 

Qayten Paisley Collection earrings

Qayten is a company I have written about previously. I first met the founders at Baselworld 2013. It specializes in using modern technology to create contemporary three-dimensional pieces that are both beautiful and easy to wear. In fact the name defines the company. Qayten, is Sanskrit meaning “origin” and the abbreviation J.E.T., stands for “Jewellery Estetica Technology.”

Maddalena Allegretti, marketing and sales manager, says this means its creations “fuse aesthetics, technical innovation and forward-thinking design while honoring the traditional techniques at the heart of jewelry making.”

Qayten TT Bracelet made with rare, ethically sourced Indonesian wood.

The Bologna-based jewelry brand uses all types of materials, from 18k gold and platinum, diamonds and colored gems, natural Akoya and South Seas pearls; and even with rare woods that are ethically sourced.

“Our jewelry is modern now and for years to come,” she says. “It’s sophisticated with high perceived value, high quality of materials, including rare collectible materials.”

Qayten diamond Bologna necklace.

Founded in 2012 the firm’s first trip to the US turned out to be quite fruitful in terms of exposure. Its Bologna necklace received two honors at the Couture Jewelry Show in Las Vegas: First Place in the “Diamonds above $20,000 Retail” category and First Runner Up in the “Debuting” category.

“The calling cards of this brand are invisible connections, en tremblant settings, she says. “This is jewelry that demands to be touched, turned over in the hands and admired as much for its technical mastery as it’s visual.”

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