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marylin monroe
Showing posts with label Baselworld. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Baselworld. Show all posts

Will New Jewelry Show Compete With Baselworld?

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Wolfram Diener (center) reading a prepared statement during a press conference at the September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

HONG KONG — The competition among the numerous jewelry tradeshows around the world is fierce. So when a new show appears on the international calendar, one can’t help but notice which show will it be competing against.

UBM Asia has announced that it is entering the European market with Jewellery & Gem Fair – JGF Europe 2014, to be held in April 1 - 4, 2014 at the Messe Freiburg Exhibition and Convention Centre in Freiburg, Germany.

Wolfram Diener, senior VP, UBM Asia, Ltd., who made the announcement Thursday during a press conference at the September Hong KongJewellery & Gem Fair, made it a point to note its convenience to major jewelry trading hubs, such as Antwerp, Paris and Vicenza. What it’s really close to in both timing and distance is Baselworld, the world’s largest and most important watch and jewelry fair held in Basel, Switzerland. The two cities are so close that I stayed in Freiburg two years ago while attending Baselworld.

Diener downplayed that the new tradeshow will compete with Baselworld for exhibitors and buyers.

“It wouldn’t be our notion to rely on any other exhibitions for our success and lack of success and we expect that we can draw exhibitors or buyers from another show,” he said. “I think we have to build our own success. As for the timing of the event, it’s really difficult with a full calendar of jewelry tradeshows to not clash or be close to any other shows.”

However, a UBM official told me afterward that JGF Europe is most likely positioned to indeed compete with Baselworld. If this is true, then it will be the battle of titans. The September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair, which UBM owns, is the largest fine jewelry tradeshow in the world. However, as already noted, Baselworld is the largest watch and jewelry show in the world. It is also the world’s most prestigious tradeshow and it is where trends are set in the watch and jewelry world each year.

One thing that the new show will not be involved with, at least at this time, is watches, which is the lifeblood of Baselworld.

There are plenty of jewelry trade fairs in Europe but Diener says that the continent lacks “a real and comprehensive sourcing fair.” This new show is an attempt to fill this void.

“JGF Europe is positioned as high efficiency, high level, face-to-face jewelry business platform that will create real business value for the international suppliers and buyers,” he said. “It’s going to be a comprehensive jewelry show with jewelry, raw material and packaging and equipment”, he said. “It’s going to be a good balance of European and non-European exhibitors. That will be refreshingly different from other shows in Europe.”

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The Oris Aquis Depth Gauge


The second and final installment of watches I missed at Basleworld but were able to see during Las Vegas Jewelry Week, deals with a specialty watch called the Aquis Depth Gauge from Oris. According to the Swiss watch brand, it is the first dive watch that measures depth by allowing water to enter the timepiece.

The company says it has applied "Boyle Mariotte Law" (which describes how the pressure of a gas tends to decrease as the volume of a gas increases) to the patented timepiece. The watch has a gray-colored channel milled into the side that runs counterclockwise around the dial, stopping between one and two o'clock. At 12 o’clock there’s a small opening. On descent, the air inside the channel is compressed by the surrounding water pressure, allowing water to enter through the opening. The edge, in light grey and dark grey, differentiates between water and compressed air on the scale around the outside of the dial, indicating depth while descending or ascending.

Besides being a cool addition to a diver’s watch, Oris says the depth gauge keeps divers safe as the indicator benefits from no inertia, so actual depth readings are seen instantly, which is useful in decompression breaks in lesser depths. It’s water-resistant to 500 meters/50 bar.


Other features of the watch include an automatic movement with a date window at 6 o’clock. The 46mm watch also comes with a waterproof case that contains interchangeable rubber and metal straps and tools.

The cost is approximately $3,200.

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UBM to Launch Jewelry Fair in Germany during Baselworld 2014


Does Baselworld have competition? Hong Kong-based tradeshow and publishing company, UBM Asia, has been coy about this but its new jewelry show in Europe will butt heads with Baselworld in 2014.

This new tradeshow called, “Jewellery & Gem Fair – Europe,” will be held April 1 – 4, 2014, in Freiburg, Germany. The dates and location line up nicely with Baselworld 2014, which will be held March 27 – April 3, 2014. Freiburg is less than an hour away from Basel, Switzerland. In fact, it’s so close that when I attended Baselworld two years ago, I stayed in Freiburg

This announcement of a new tradeshow comes after the world’s largest watch and jewelry tradeshow finished a $454.5-million upgrade to the Messe Basel complex that came with several upset vendors. In fact, the 1,460 companies who exhibited at the recently concluded Baselworld 2013 was 355 fewer than those who exhibited the prior year.

The biggest player to exit Baselworld this year was David Yurman, after what was described as “‘exasperating’ back-and-forth with the powers that be at Baselworld.” People from several companies expressed their dissatisfaction to me with their booth placement, the substantial increase in the cost of participating this year, and the pressure to construct newer, larger and more expensive booths for the show. One company, which was one of the few companies to both remain in the same space and not expand their booth, told me they still had to pay 30 percent more than the prior year.

UBM Asia is refusing to acknowledge that they are creating a competing show, calling this new fair “a comprehensive sourcing fair offering a wide range of jewelry products.” It is being positioned “as a high-efficiency, high-level face-to-face jewelry business platform to create real business value for international suppliers and buyers.”

UBM says that more than 260 exhibitors from 25 countries and regions have reserved exhibition space a year ahead of its launch. “This figure represents more than 50 percent of the expected number of exhibitors and represents 60 percent of the total exhibition space which indicates the market’s enthusiasm for this new fair in Europe,” UBM said.

Exhibitors that have signed up are from Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brazil, China, Colombia, France, Germany, Hong Kong region, India, Israel, Italy, Japan, Korea, Poland, Russia, Spain, Sri Lanka, Switzerland, Taiwan, Thailand, Turkey, the United Kingdom, the United States and Zambia.

The fair is open to the jewelry trade, business professionals and members of the media. Free admission to save €30 will be granted to preregistered visitors and online preregistration opens in June 2013. 


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First Jewelry Tradeshow in Freiburg Reports Positive Results, Plans Expansion


While at Baselworld I was planning to spend at least one day at the inaugural Jewellery & Gem Fair – Europe 2014 tradeshow held in Freiburg, Germany. However, a Lufthansa pilot strike forced me to leave Europe early so I didn’t get to attend.

The only report I received on opening day was that there was a good crowd and positive feeling. A report from UBM, the organizer of the B2B sourcing fair held April 1 - 4, said that 6,000 trade professionals attended. 

The show presented a range of goods including finished jewelry, diamonds and colored gemstones, jewelry mountings, and manufacturing tools and equipment.

Of the 6,000 visitors, about 4,280 were professional buyers, according to UBM. Most of these buyers were from Germany, Switzerland, Italy, Belgium and Brazil. The show is held at approximately the same time as Baselworld and is about an hour away by train, giving jewelry industry professionals the opportunity to attend both shows. 

“The vast majority of exhibitors and traders viewed the exhibition as a success. We are very pleased with the positive feedback from the market and see this as a confirmation that JGF Europe is now listed as an important industry event in the jewelry calendar,” said Wolfram Diener, senior VP of UBM Asia.

The 2015 edition is scheduled for March 22 to 25. Due to an increase in the demand for exhibition space, the fair will occupy an additional hall at Messe Freiburg, UBM said.

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes website.

MB&F Teams with L’Epée 1839 to Create Star Trek Themed Table Clock

Starfleet Machine in Dark Face

MB&F—in what is becoming a legacy for this young, innovative company—has again teamed up with a traditional mechanical movement manufacturer to create a bold concept in design and function. The “Starfleet Machine,” is a traditionally functional table clock with a futuristic appearance.

The clock combines the innovative design skills of the multi-award-winning MB&F (known for its cutting-edge “horological machines”) with the traditional fine craftsmanship and engineering skills of table clock manufacturer, L’Epée 1839. It was unveiled by both companies at Baselworld 2014. The inspiration of the clock is based on the MB&F’s founder, Maximilian Büsser’s passion for high-end mechanical watchmaking and Science Fiction, in this case the Star Trek television and film franchise. The idea Büsser said was “to boldly go where no clock designer had gone before.”

This introduction follows last year’s Baselworld release of the “Music Machine,” which was the first piece by the Geneva-based firm that wasn’t a timepiece but a music box, created with luxury music box maker, Reuge. It was shaped like a futuristic spaceship and the songs it played included the Star Wars and Star Trek themes.

Charris Yadigaroglou, MB&F chief communications officer, said during a meeting at Baselworld that the Starfleet Machine will be available in May and will be limited to 175 pieces in light and dark versions. Its cost is 28,000 Swiss francs ($31,763).

The C-shaped totally exposed and minimalistic Starfleet Machine looks different from any table clock ever made. The highly visible in-house movement has a power reserve of 40 days. (“You need a large fuel tank for long space voyages,” the company said.) Hours and minutes are indicated on the central black dome by hand-polished hands that follow the dome’s curved contours. Behind that, a smaller rotating dome, accompanied by a revolving “radar dish,” provides a view of remaining energy: five bars indicates the movement is fully wound; one bar means it has eight days of remaining power, which is the maximum power reserve on most table clocks.

Below 12 o’clock on the central hour-minute dome are double retrograde seconds in the form of what the company describes as “turret-mounted laser cannons.” The red-tipped cannons start in parallel and cross over one another before rapidly flying out again, an action marking off 20-second intervals.

L’Epée’s caliber has five main spring barrels that usually equips vertically standing clocks, but here it is laid flat. The escapement platform also had to be set horizontally.

Every component (except the 48 jewels) of the palladium-treated brass movement is designed and manufactured at L’Epée’s Swiss atelier. The gears and mainspring barrels are on full display due to the skeletonised mainplate and concentric C-shaped external structure in stainless steel. the clock can rest on both ends of its “vertical landing gear;” useful for turning it over to wind the mainspring and set the time.

It is covered with a glass dome, which isn’t shown in the photograph nor was it on display at Baselworld, Yadigaroglou said. 

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Baselworld’s ‘Opening Act’

Baselworld representatives at opening day press conference.


BASEL, Switzerland — Baselworld, the premiere event of the Swiss watch industry, on Wednesday unveiled the latest renovation to the multi-building complex that it calls home. The $454.5-million upgrade reflects the spectacular success of an industry that has defied the trials and tribulations of the worldwide economy and a product that has remained popular despite changing fashion and trends. It also is a response to an industry now dominated by a few luxury conglomerates.

The eight-day watch and jewelry fair actually opens Thursday. Wednesday was press day, where top officials discussed the tradeshow and the industry in general. The discussion of the new design was described as Baselworld’s “opening act” by Sylvie Ritter, managing director of the tradeshow.

While several buildings underwent dramatic change under the leadership of architects Herzog & de Meuron, most eyes are focused on Hall 1, now rebranded as the “Global Hall.” It is the main area for some of the most world-renowned watch and jewelry brands. This year, the area not only underwent dramatic structural change, but occupants changed as well. Several brands (mostly independent) were moved to other areas of the complex. Now brands represented by global conglomerates Swatch Group and LVMH far outnumber independent brands. These include Hublot, Tag Heuer, Breguet and Bulgari.

Independent brands that remain in Hall 1 include Patek Philippe, Rolex, and Ulysse Nardin.

René Kamm, CEO of MCH Group, which operates the Basel fairgrounds (Messe Basel), explained that the redesigned hall is reserved for “watch and jewelry brands that have a global impact and a worldwide reach.”

Speakers put on a unified front and spent a great of deal of time thanking exhibitors. However, change this dramatic does not come easy and several exhibitors who have lost their space in Hall 1 were not happy (although refusing to voice their displeasure publicly).

All of this change also came at a price. Several brand executives told me (or refused to dispute) that exhibiting in Hall 1—which includes the construction of multi-story, elaborate temporary showrooms that also have been upgraded this year—now costs upwards of $5 million.

Jacques J. Duchêne, president of the Baselworld Exhibitors’ Committee, said it is the domination of luxury conglomerates that has led to the changes at Baselworld.

“In the course of the past 15 years, the watch and jewelry industry has been through a consolidation process on a scale never witnessed before, and this has also had its effects on the challenges faced by production and marketing, which have changed radically,” Duchêne said. “Now it is a good thing to take note of changes and to adjust to them, but it is even better still to anticipate needs and to be in a position to satisfy them without delay when they arise.”

The price hike and the pressure to create more elaborate booths were also felt among exhibitors who don’t have the deep pockets of the brands in Hall 1. A few companies actually pulled out of the show. Perhaps seeing an opportunity, Hong Kong-based tradeshow and publishing company, UBM Asia, will open its first tradeshow in the European market next year in nearby Freiburg, Germany, with dates that overlap Baselworld.
 
The international press at the opening of Baselworld


But even though some are a bit disgruntled, the 1,460 companies from 40 countries exhibiting recognize the importance of being there in terms of sheer numbers, glamour and international attention. Many brands will bring international celebrities along to help present their new products. More than 3,500 journalists from 70 countries will be covering the event and approximately 100,000 people will attend.

The show is also buoyed by the amazing success of the Swiss watch industry. In 2012, the industry has produced another record year with exports totaling 21.4 billion Swiss francs ($22.6 billion), a 10.9 percent increase over 2011.

“Today, it is thanks to this excellent state of health of the industry that we are able to present the show to you in its attractive new look,” Duchêne said. 

 Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes Website.

The Big Bold Bling of Jacob & Co.

Jacob & Co. Ladybug Cocktail Ring
BASEL, Switzerland – It took an hour for my eyes to adjust to normal light after visiting the Jacob & Co. showroom at Baselworld. The multi-carat, multi-colored diamond and gemstone jewelry was a blinding spectacle of glitter and sparkle. The following is a short and modest list of jewelry selected from the high-bling bauble parade I witnessed.

The Novelty Safari Collection
Multicolored sapphires, black Tahitian pearls, a colorful collection of South Seas pearls are among the highlights of this collection of animal-inspired gold jewelry. The colorful ladybug rings (pictured above), the rose gold snake earrings (left) and the rose gold frog cocktail ring all have these multiple flourishes and run from $11,400 to $32,250.

The Diamond Lace Collection
The Lace Pattern Full-Finger Ring with double spring shank is made with 18k rose gold melded into an intricate lace pattern paved with 4.24 carats of round-cut diamonds. Match that with a rose gold lace chandelier earrings formed into multiple round lace patterns and again topped with tiny round diamonds totaling 6.5 carats. The ring retails for $19,000 and the earrings for $21,400. 

The Leaf Collection
Black rhodium plated gold and diamond pave pendant and chandelier earrings set in a leaf-shape. The pendant comes with a two-row diamond bail and a five-strand 18-inch chain. The pendant retails for $12,900 and the earrings for $21,450.



 
The Titanium Collection
The lightness of the metal and delicacy of the design and unusual color are among the attributes that these earrings have. The purple titanium diamond-pave double circle pendant earrings with 12.45 carats of diamonds retail for $32,000. If you prefer earrings with length there are the blue titanium chandelier earrings with hanging diamond strands. More than 650 briolette white diamond pave adorn the hanging earrings totaling nearly 14 cts., yet it weighs only 6.45 grams ($34,000).

Jacob & Co. Tourbillon and 5 Timezones Watches

BASEL, Switzerland – U.S.-based Jewelry and timepiece company, Jacob & Co., presented several watches that challenged conventional watchmaking methods in terms of design and technical advancements. Three of the watches that represent a sampling of what was shown to me at the Baselworld trade fair follow.

Cyclone Tourbillon
This unusual watch (pictured above) is receiving a great deal of play in the international press for its transparent appearance and technical qualities. The company says it is the first tourbillon in which the tourbillon system and the automatic winding system are completely visible and integrated with each other. The tourbillon carriage is mounted on the oscillating mass of the automatic winding system, moved from its normal position on the back of the watch to the dial side of the movement, offering a full view of its motion. The entire arrangement is contained in a calbre LFT 108 movement, 11.91mm in height, with a diameter of 34.60mm. The automatic winding system is bidirectional, with a power reserve of 45 hours. There is no dial in the conventional sense. Instead, the hour and minute display, small seconds display, and power reserve are incorporated directly into the upper plate of the movement, allowing free movement, as well as an unobstructed view.

Ghost 5 Collection
Part of its new G5 series of the company’s well-known Five Timezones watches, the timepieces show the day and date in five different time zones “on demand.” With the press of a button, the digital displays are illuminated. The pentagonal shape of the case is in the style of the company’s. Five Timezones watch. The watch provides a variety of choices. For example, pressing each of the crowns individually illuminates a single time display, while a longer press of the crown located at the upper right corner of the pentagon will illuminate all displays, which are able to display 32 colors including. The date alone can be displayed for each timezone and the Jacob & Co. logo in the center of the watch glows whenever the time display is activated. Each Ghost timepiece features an interchangeable bezel, available in black PVD, carbon fiber, stainless steel, or 18k rose gold, with white or black diamond set bezels also available.

Grand 5 Collection
This watch collection is similar to Jacob & Co.’s original Five Timezones watch in displaying the local time, as well as the time in four referenced world class cities around the globe. However, the pentagon-shaped watch shows the local time on a dial of the same dimensions as the other timezones. Its central focus is a “turbine” accent that anchors the design and is reminiscent of the air intake of the jet engines. The company says it evokes the adventurous spirit of the 1960s when air travel when the term “jet setter” was coined. Aerodynamically styled bezel elements further accentuate that link. Finishes include 18k rose gold, stainless steel, and stainless steel finished in black PVD (one model receives the full black PVD treatment.) All Grand timepieces are powered by Swiss precision quartz movements, and come with black rubber straps with folding clasps.

Tomorrow, Jacob & Co.'s new jewelry collections from Baselworld.

Milla Jovovich is the Face of Jacob & Co.

Milla Jovovich and Jacob Arabo

BASEL, Switzerland – Jacob & Co. announced that the new face of its global advertising campaign is actress and model, Milla Jovovich. The unveiling was held March 27 during a party at the Jacob & Co. booth during Baselworld, the world’s largest watch and jewelry tradeshow.

I was unable to attend the event but earlier did get a tour of the new high-carat, high-cost jewelry and watches that company unveiled during the show, more on that later. 

The theme of the event was the representation of Jacob & Co.’s global philosophy of multiple time zones, each of the models was esthetically indicative of cities or ethnicities, including: Hong Kong, Moscow, London, Dubai and New York. Celebrated DJ Kay Rush was the MC and host of the cocktail, greeting the crowd in 5 different languages and introducing Milla Jovovich to the guests.

“This evening is an important milestone for Jacob & Co.” said Jacob Arabo, founder and owner of Jacob & Co. “We have been looking for the right personality and beauty that represents what I call; ‘The Jacob Girl’, she is a sophisticated world traveler, self accomplished and exudes an assertive feminine personality, lastly, she is absolutely gorgeous.”

A View of Baselworld, Video of Frédérique Constant Press Conference


BASEL, Switzerland – Yes, it's the same photo I used a few days ago when writing about Frédérique Constant's product introductions at Baselworld. But here’s an added bonus. Below is a video of the Swiss watch company's March 24 press event at its showrooms in the back of Hall 1.0. Peter Stas, Frédérique Constant's managing director, led the event, which was followed by lunch on the showroom floor. Give Stas credit. He said he wanted to keep his presentation to 10 minutes and he did, which is very convenient when downloading videos on YouTube.

TAG Heuer Carrera Heritage Line


One of the many, many things I did not get to see at Baselworld was the introduction of TAG Heuer's Carrera Heritage series to the annual watch and jewelry show. The watch, which actually debuted in October, “evokes the glamor and sophistication that defined the 1960s,” the company said, when the original Carrera was developed.

The timepieces are powered by a modern calibre 6 or calibre 16 movement, the collection is designed to look like they have been handed down across generations. This feel is achieved through details such as the flinque texture on the dials and a decorative motif of undulating lines that is traditionally found on vintage timepieces. This aesthetic is complemented by the timepieces' raised and curved Arabic numerals, which are featured in a blue, rose gold, polished silver or 18k gold, depending on the model. 

In designing the Carrera Heritage series, TAG Heuer delved into its archives, pulling specific elements, including the linear shape of the push buttons and tapered hour and minute hands, from a 1945 Heuer timepiece. Also drawn from this nearly 70-year-old watch were the hands for the small, second counter and chronograph, which boast an elegant delta shape. These stand in stark contrast to the stick-straight hands that sweep along today's timepieces, adding to the new models' antique appeal.

It is available in either a watch or chronograph.

Seiko Looks Back to the Future

Seiko officials at Baselworld press conference.

BASEL, Switzerland - Whether it was a sign of defiance, solidarity or necessity it’s difficult to say. But all 12 Japanese companies scheduled to exhibit at Baselworld made the trip. None of them were as big as or more important to the world of timepieces than Seiko Watch Corp. A packed house of reporters attended Seiko’s press conference on March 24 as the Japanese watch giant honored its 130th anniversary by introducing seven new lines of timepieces for different markets, several of which look back to the company’s rich heritage.

In his opening remarks, Shinji Hattori, Seiko president and CEO and the great-grandfather of the founder of Seiko, Kintaro Hattori, expressed gratitude to the many members of the media who had sent messages of support to Seiko. After that it was all Seiko business until reporters asked about the Japanese crisis  during questioning (read about it, here). The event was largely led by Shu Yoshino, Seiko, general manager of the international advertising. 


Credor Spring Drive Minute Repeater
The one item that received the most positive response from those in the room was the Credor Spring Drive Minute Repeater. It is the first minute repeater watch ever built by Seiko and focuses on what the company calls, “The miracle of sound.” Described as a “lingering, clear and haunting sound” with “Japanese character,” it is enhanced by a totally silent spring drive mechanism made of steel forged by celebrated Japanese steelmaker, Munemichi Myochin, whose family’s blacksmithing heritage dates back 850 years. “Myochin” steel was used for the minute repeater bell gongs, which were calibrated and monitored to create the closest possible replica of the “Myochin wind bell sound,” described as a “clear and pleasing sound” attributed to the steelmaking skills of the Myochin family, which is used for wind chimes created by the company. Hattori said the sound is significant to Japanese heritage.

Seiko says the Spring Drive is the only mechanical movement in the world to measure time silently and continuously with no tick. The “silent governor” uses the viscosity of air to control the speed of the striking gongs. While most minute repeaters follow the traditional hour, quarter and minute system, the Credor Spring Drive Minute Repeater uses a decimal system in which the hammers strike one-hour, ten-minute and one-minute sounds. At 1:59, the hour sound is struck once, the ten-minute sound is struck five times and the one-minute sound is struck nine times.

The watch has no less than 660 components. The high-speed “flight” of the blades of the silent governor is visible from the front, and the striking of the hammers can be seen through the sapphire crystal caseback. The case is 42.8 mm in diameter and has a power reserve of 72 hours when the minute repeater mechanism is not used. Just three pieces will be available in December. 


Grand Seiko
The company also unveiled three limited edition Grand Seiko timepieces. All three models house a newly developed mechanical hand-winding movement, caliber 9S64, which boasts a three-day power reserve. The design pays homage to the original Grand Seiko model from 1960. Until last year, the watch was almost totally exclusive to the Japanese market. It is now available in more than 20 major countries. It comes in hand-polished steel, 18k gold or platinum (the latter two are pictured). The dial and buckle are exactly the same as the original model, the company said. The watch’s iconic “lion” symbol adorns the caseback. The gold and platinum versions of the watch are offered in a limited edition of 130, while the steel edition will be limited to 1,300.


Sportura
Seiko’s history as a producer of sports watches dates back to the 1964 Tokyo Olympics, when the watch company served as the official timekeeper for the event. Touting this tradition, the company introduced new versions of its decade-old Sportura line, the Alarm Chronograph and Kinetic Diver. Precision timing, high durability, security and high legibility are the fundamental qualities of this watch line, the company said. Wide-surface, cone-shaped chronograph buttons provide precise operation. An angled dial edge allows the watch hands and markers to align even when turning the diver’s watch away from one’s eyes. Arabic hour markers arranged as follows: the 2, 4, 8 and 10 numerals are silver, while the 1, 5, 7 and 11 are in pure white. This is done to ensure that the hands contrast sharply with the dial and markers make the watch easier to read.

The company also announced that the Sportura brand is in a three-year joint marketing alliance with FC Barcelona, one of the most successful teams in world soccer. In making the announcement, Yoshino, removed his conservative business attire to expose an FC Barcelona shirt.


Ananta
Another diver’s watch introduced by the company is the Ananta Automatic Chronograph Diver’s watch, which will be sold in a limited edition of 700 pieces, and again taking a note from its history of building diver’s watches since 1965, creating the first titanium diving watch in 1975 and the world’s first computerized diving watch in 1990.

The company said the redesigned calber 8R39 addresses safety concerns by divers at depth. The new movement uses a balance spring made of Seiko’s proprietary alloy “Spron610” with up-graded shock-resistance and antimagnetism. The watchcase has three clamps, one more than is normally used in other chronographs. Then there’s the jet black lacquer. Seiko commissioned Isshu Tamura, a world-renowned lacquer artist, to create a dial that is truly jet black, so the hands and numbers can be easily seen while diving at great depths. Each dial is painted in layers and polished by hand by Tamura in his studio, the company said. Tamura is a master of “Kaga Makie” which is a traditional style of lacquer. 


Premier Collection
For its dress watches, the company introduced new versions of its Premier watch brand for men and women in traditional mechanical calibers, and in kinetic movements. The company describes the watch as classic and modern. For the new line the cases are slightly more rounded, the dials are little more textured, the crowns are new and the bracelet links are slightly smaller for a softer fit, the company said. For 2011, a new automatic movement was created: a 24-jewel 21,600 vph caliber with a power reserve of 41 hours. The heart of the movement with its gold plated balance wheel is visible through the dial at the nine o’clock position, and the whole movement, with its specially engraved rotor, can be seen through the case back. The three time-of-day hands are complemented by a 24-hour hand set into a subdial at the 11 o’clock position. The movement is both automatic and hand-winding.


The Lorus Collection
Three totally different watches under the Seiko’s Lorus brand were unveiled during the event. 

The official watch of the Blades air display team and the chronograph is built to perform as the U.K. civilian acrobatic air squad pilots spin, loop and fly in close formation. The sub-dial layout of the movement is easy to read. The steel screw caseback, security clasp and 10-bar water resistance of the Lorus Blades Collection is built to withstand harsh treatment. The timepiece carries the Blades insignia on the dial and with the insignia of the air squad’s charity partner, the Royal Air Forces Association, on its caseback. 

The Lorus evening women’s model has a silver sunray dial encased in a bezel with fifty four crystals that add sparkle to the case and white leather strap. The new creation is five bar water resistant and has a full steel case. The company describes it as a “smart dress watch for that special occasion.”



The Lorus Sports Fusion has a VD53 caliber has a new sub-dial layout and a dial that includes a screw-motif surround to the minutes display in the nine o’clock position. The case and bracelet are made of stainless steel, it is 10-bar water resistant, the crown is protected and the clasp has a three-fold structure for additional security.




130th Anniversary Commemorative Clock Collection
Finally, the company unveiled two modern, mechanical decor mantel clocks, which pays homage to the company’s beginnings in 1881, as a clock maker. The mainspring of both clocks delivers consistent torque with no change in output power. The gears are engineered to ensure low friction and the precise engagement of each gear. The clocks will run for 30 days when fully round and delivers an accuracy of plus-minus two seconds per day. 
 

The hands of “The Samurai in Contemplation” resemble Katana swords. The indicator at the base evokes the Samuri’s fan. The arched shape at the 12 o’clock position represents the helmet and the engraving on the barrel is the armor.


The space around the movement for “At the Tea Ceremony,” highlights the intimacy of the “chashitsu” or tea room and the engraving on the back depicts the gentle flow of water in a stream passing through a Japanese garden.

Graff Diamonds Unveils the $55 Million 'Hallucination' Multi-Colored Diamond Watch At Baselworld


Graff Diamonds has set the stage for a one-of-kind unveiling during Baselworld’s opening day. The first time exhibitor at the annual watch and jewelry fair will present the $55 million “Hallucination” ladies watch Thursday.

The London-based diamond and jewelry firm says the timepiece covered in a kaleidoscope of 110 carats of rare fancy colored diamonds is “estimated to be the most valuable watch ever created.”

Even the hour indicators on the petite dial of this candy-colored watch are made of diamonds. The company said a team of designers, gemologists and master craftsmen worked on this piece for thousands of hours to perfect the concept, which came directly from Laurence Graff, chairman of Graff Diamonds.

“The Graff Hallucination is a sculptural masterpiece; a celebration of the miracle of colored diamonds,” Laurence Graff said in a statement. “For many years I have thought about creating a truly remarkable watch that illustrates our all consuming passion for diamonds. The Hallucination has made my diamond dream a reality.”

Tomorrow I get to see it for myself.

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes website.

Seiko Officials Address the Crisis in Japan

Seiko officials during press conference at Baselworld.

BASEL, Switzerland - Seiko Holdings Corp. officials said Thursday that one of its factories has been closed and that production has been significantly reduced due to the earthquake and tsunami in Japan.

“Some of the production has been slowed and a factory has been stopped because of a lack of electricity and gasoline, said Shinji Hattori, chief executive officer of the watch unit, during a press conference at Baselworld, the world’s largest watch and jewelry tradeshow.

The company was introducing a number of new products to celebrate its 130-year anniversary. Afterward, company officials responded briefly to reporters’ questions about the ongoing crisis.

Hattori, the grandson of the company’s founder, said that the closed facility should reopen in about a week. He did say that production will be reduced, although he didn’t speculate by how much or for how long. The company’s production facilities did not sustain any damages because they located are away from the devastated area and all of the company’s employees are safe and accounted for.

"You do not need to worry about it," he said.

More on the new products to come.

Thomas Prescher’s Personal Touch

Thomas Prescher's Mysterious double-axis toubillon

BASEL, Switzerland - I had the pleasure to meet independent watchmaker Thomas Prescher and view his entire stock of beautiful and extremely complicated timepieces Thursday at Baselworld, the world's largest watch and jewelry fair. Prescher and one other person produce all of their products from their headquarters in Twann, Switzerland. “We don’t have a factory, we have a workshop,” he stresses.

I first wrote about the brand when the company introduced its triple-axis toubillon. Their watches retail from $22,000 to $415,000 and are becoming a favorite with serious watch collectors, he said. Lately, he’s been focusing on building custom timepieces for collectors. “The larger companies can’t provide this type of service,” he says. They would typically start at $415,000 but are still a value when compared to similar models from comparable large, established watch brands.

In addition, he recently introduced lower priced watches as a way to adjust to the realities of the current economy. The complications are similar to the six-figure models but he replaced the platinum and gold housings with a steel that has the look of platinum.

On of my favorite pieces is the “Mysterious” double-action toubillon. Only the time, toubillon calendar and oscillating weight are visible. The automatic movement is hidden in the left and right part of the case behind the bezel of the largely transparent watch.

There are few watch companies that are aligned so tightly with its maker. The timepieces can be ordered through a retailer or directly through the company. Since opening in 2002, Prescher, saw the value of marketing and communicating through the Internet. He is highly accessible online for consultation before, during and after buying one of his watches. In other words, his innovative approach to watchmaking doesn’t end at the workshop.

Baselworld App

No tradeshow is complete these days without its own smartphone application. Baselworld, the world’s largest watch and jewelry show, isn’t any different. The free app, for the iPhone, iPad, BlackBerry and other smart phones, simplifies the orientation and navigation through the multi-building Messe Basel complex by providing essential information regarding this year's show, being held March 24 – 31.

The app includes visitor information, all of the 2,000 exhibitors with a brief company description, product pictures and contact details. The exhibitors can be marked as a favorite and shown on the interactive 3D map. The index of products allows users to search exhibitors by product category. In addition, those using the app will receive a digital version of the Baselworld Show Daily.

Baselworld 2012 Closes with Strong Results, Upbeat and Confident

Business was brisk at Baselworld 2012 and the attitude of both exhibitors and buyers was upbeat and confident.

A fractured arm kept me from attending Baselworld this year Fortunately, veteran watch journalist, William George Shuster, kindly agreed to take time from his busy schedule to write a few stories from the tradeshow. Below is his fourth and final report.

By William George Shuster
Special Correspondent


BASEL, Switzerland — The just-ended Baselworld 2012, the world’s most important and largest watch and jewelry tradeshow, was one of the most successful in its history.

The eight-day show closed March 15 with a 1 percent rise in attendance (to 104,300, its second-highest attendance ever); a 9 percent gain (3,320) in the international press corps at the show; and almost universal satisfaction among vendors—especially those in the luxury sector—with the business, orders and contacts they had; and widespread confidence among retail buyers.

"It was a fascinating week, and truly a good year for us exhibitors. We are highly satisfied,” said Jacques J. Duchêne, long-time chairman of the show’s Exhibitors' Committee. Francois Thiébaud, president of the Swiss Exhibitors Committee, agreed, calling the show a "complete success."

Positive comments. Indeed, this year’s edition of the annual watch and jewelry trade fair on the Rhine in Basel, Switzerland, evoked positive comments from most vendors, both large and small.

Swiss luxury sport brand TAG Heuer, for example, welcomed 30 percent more retailers than last year. It also introduced movie star Cameron Diaz as its new brand ambassador. Luxury watch Hublot—which unveiled its one-of-a-kind $5 million diamond-encrusted timepiece--took “considerably more orders than in [2011],” said CEO Ricardo Guadalupe. At Swiss watchmaker Ellicott, “Response to our new watches—especially the world’s thinnest minute repeater with perpetual calendar (hand-wound)—was very good,” said CEO Pierre-Andre Finazzi to the show’s newspaper, “and price points and units per order are more than last year.”

Despite economic problems in Europe, the U.S. and many other regions of the world, an upbeat business attitude pervaded the fair’s buying and selling. Luxury watch brand Patek Phillippe, for example, noted “an exceedingly positive mood amongst our customers throughout the entire show,” said Jasmine Steel, international communications director, while at the Bulova Corp. stand, “People are excited about our groundbreaking products and technologies,” said Harvey Kaplan, regional vice president. “Business is hot,” declared Jacques-Philippe Auriol, CEO of TechnoMarine watches, to the show’s daily newspaper. “The booth is packed and clients are smiling.”

At Seiko, “sales are much better than expected, and there’s great interest in our new Astron GPS watch,” said Karou Matsumoto, public relations general manager. “Customers are cautiously optimistic, and we share their optimism.”

‘Gratifying’ business. In the Hong Kong delegation of vendors, the show’s second largest, “Purchasing behavior was gratifying and the potential in the boom markets, including Russia and Latin America, highly promising,” said Ralph Chow, director of product promotion for the Hong Kong Trade Development Council.

Gem dealers and vendors of technology and equipment, too, were generally upbeat about business result, as were jewelry firms. The German precious gem house of Groh + Ripp, for example, surpassed 2011’s good results by 25 percent. “The quality of the visitors was exceedingly good,” added Managing Director Bernd Willy Ripp. At Spanish jewelry firm Carrera y Carrera, “For the first time in three years, we don’t hear about the [financial] crisis,” CEO Nathalie Guedj told the BaselWolrd Daily News. “That reflects the very good business the jewelry industry did in 2011. People are confident about the future.”

The Swiss watch delegation was especially pleased. Following a record-breaking year in exports in 2011 (29.8 million watches, valued at 19.3 billion Swiss francs, or about $21 billion), its strong results for Baselworld 2012—driven in lager part by ongoing, growing demand for luxury products, especially in Asia, and China particularly, and “certain emerging markets”—promise another good year for Swiss watchmakers. “While it is always difficult to anticipate results,” said the Swiss Exhibitors Committee’s closing report. “This 40th edition [of Baselworld] augurs well for positive progress in 2012. The 20 billion franc export threshold should be easily crossed and thereby represent the third consecutive growth year [in 2012].”

The enhanced interest by the global media in the show’s news and trends and the sizeable increase in journalists covering the show was especially important to both vendors and show officials. It indicates the importance the show has gained with the global press, and “For exhibitors, the worldwide reports in the specialist, daily, business and lifestyle media, as well as in the online media, TV and radio, are of major importance,” noted Baselworld’s closing report. Luxury watchmaker Patek Philippe, for example, received over 800 journalists at it stand, “a considerable increase over previous years,” noted spokesperson Jasmina Steele.

A new era. For the 104,300 visits from 100-plus nations and the 1,851 vendors from 41 countries, this was the last time they would work in the current exhibition stands or rush hurriedly through its halls. But many said they were already looking forward to what show officials call show’s “new era” starting in 2013.

The show’s owner, MCH Group, is revamping the current Exhibition Square and its surrounding buildings, with an immense makeover valued at just under half-a-billion dollars. The expensive and extensive transformation—including two new three-story building, a two-building above the formerly outside Exhibition Square, a new events hall, and the tearing down of some of the show’s older buildings—transformation is being handled by Basel-based architects Herzog & de Meuron, who also designed the famous Bird’s Nest national stadium in Beijing. The new complex will have 141,000 m2.

Show Director Sylvia Ritter admitted to “a certain amount of nostalgia” for the current buildings sand fair grounds, which will be gone in weeks. “At the same time, I am looking forward impatiently and with great expectations to the new era that will be dawning for this world show,” she said.

The new complex, opening in April 2013, will also involve the relocation of many watch exhibitors in the current Hall 1 and the spending of millions of dollars by exhibitors on new exhibition booths and presentations. “Nearly all the brands will now be investing in their new stands for Baselworld 2013,” said Duchene. “This highlights the fact that we have a great deal of confidence in this [trade show] event, because [it] will be giving us exhibitors even more opportunities to experience positive developments in future."

The next show, Baselworld 2013, will be held April 25 – May 2, 2013.

William George Shuster is a multi-award winning writer—including three Jesse H. Neal Award, business journalism's highest honor. He has 40 years experience as a journalist, author and editor. He is considered one of the world’s top watch industry journalists, covering the world of timepieces for the past 30 years.

Baselworld 2012: End of an Era; Baselworld 2013: A new era begins

Inside Hall 1, the Hall of Dreams, where all the major watch brands at Baselworld 2012 are located. There will be changes among the exhibitors.

A fractured arm kept me from attending Baselworld this year. Fortunately, I know some of the best writers and experts in the jewelry and watch industry. One of those folks is William George Shuster who has kindly agreed to take time from his busy schedule to write a few stories from the tradeshow. Below is his third report.

By William George Shuster
Special Correspondent


Baselworld 2012, the 40th annual edition of the world’s largest and most important watch and jewelry show, may be its most successful yet.

But it also marks the end of an era for the trade fair. Indeed, there was a sense of finality about Baselworld 2012 that had nothing to do with business.

The reason: An enormous and costly restructuring of trade fair buildings and a redesign and revamping of Exhibition Square, the outdoor center of the fair, so total that international visitors and exhibitors from next year onward will not recognize the long-time fair site.

Indeed, Sylvie Ritter, the show director, called Baselworld 2012, a “milestone in the history of our trade show” and “a decisive turning point” before the “start of a new era” in 2013.

This newest modernization in a long history of renovations and expansions of the Basel fairgrounds is scheduled to finished and ready for the 41st edition of Baselworld in April 2013.

Trade show facilities that have housed the annual Baselworld and earlier Swiss watch and jewelry fair for much of the 20th and early 21st centuries are being torn down and replaced with massive new, three-story structures, costing millions of dollars. Show officials promise this enormous undertaking, the most extensive modernization and expansion of the show facilities in its history, will benefit both visitors and exhibitors immensely.

“With investments of around 430 million Swiss francs ($460 million), we will be able to provide our exhibitors, our trade visitors and our journalists with a fantastic trade show infrastructure,” said René Kamm, CEO MCH Group.

The 95-year-old Hall 1, site of  major watch brand exhibitors and the fair ground’s oldest building, will be rebuilt, with its front dismantled, and extended into the exhibition square by a three strew building. Hall 3, across the street (site for gemstone and equipment exhibitors) is being torn down and replaced also with a new three story complex, with a multifunctional event hall (capable of holding up to 2,500 people) on the ground floor. Linking these two buildings will be linked by a two-story complex (starting the second floor level of Hall One, roofing over exhibition square. The exhibition square (pictured left) itself will become a large atrium, open to the public and the trams which will continue to regularly ride through it.

The new complex will have a total of 141,000 square meters and will “ensure a greater level of convenience for our visitors,” says a show report. The final outcome is going to do justice to the expectations of our exhibitors,” says Jacquares Diichene, trade show chairman.

Also changing will be the locations of many exhibitors, especially those watch vendors on the first floor in Hall 1. And members of the Hong Kong exhibitors pavilion, the show’s second largest, will be moving from Hall 6 to Hall 4.

William George Shuster is a multi-award winning writer—including three Jesse H. Neal Award, business journalism's highest honor. He has 40 years experience as a journalist, author and editor. He is considered one of the world’s top watch industry journalists, covering the world of timepieces for the past 30 years.

Is Hublot’s New Red Gold Watch Actually Red Gold?

Hublot's Big Bang Caviar Red Gold Diamonds ladies watch

For Hublot’s Baselworld preview, the Swiss luxury watch brand released images of its “5N red gold” Big Bang Caviar ladies watch, featuring a bezel set with 36 diamonds. As you can see in the picture it is quite a beauty. However, I have a bit of a dilemma that I will get to the bottom of eventually.

From my understanding of the different colors of gold, 5N refers to rose-colored gold, while 6N refers to red gold. Pink gold is usually 3N and 4N gold. The colors are based on the types of metals that are mixed with pure gold. Usually 18k gold, which I am assuming this watch contains although the materials don’t clearly state this, is mixed with cooper to make it red. Red gold can be made with 75 percent yellow gold and 25 percent cooper. However, I believe this is usually labeled as 5N gold, which refers to rose gold.

Anyone who has an answer is welcome to respond. I will ask Hublot when I get the chance. I’m sure there’s a simple explanation.

Now for the rest of story behind this watch. It’s based on the design of Hublot’s famous One Million $ Black Caviar, and directly inspired by the black ceramic Big Bang Black Caviar, which has been one of the brand's bestsellers since 2011. The 41mm watch has a sleek, graphic look with sharp angles and reliefs designed, cut, beveled and polished to look like the black baguette diamonds on the Caviar watch.

It's fitted with the HUB1112 self-winding mechanical movement. The 5N gold dial has a date window at 3 o'clock. It has a power reserve of 42 hours. The strap is made of either shiny silver or 5N gold colored calfskin sewn onto black rubber.

The timepiece also is available in a steel version, with 36 diamonds on the bezel and the same size, movement, look and workmanship as the “red” model. 

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