Judith Kinghorn and Her High-Karat Jewelry Designs

Layers of high-quality materials, multiple textures, various techniques and plenty of labor go into the jewelry designs of Judith Kinghorn.

The Minneapolis-based jewelry artist and metalsmith works primarily in high-karat gold and sterling silver, which she often pairs with precious gemstones. She combines heavy layers of gold and sterling silver that are milled and then textured. Her creations are often the result of multiple metalsmithing processes and techniques that result complex, cohesive works. She doesn’t work from drawings and her designs are inspired by nature and modern world.

Kinghorn was one of the jewelry artists at the Philadelphia Museum of Art Craft Show.

Barbara Heinrich and her 18k Gold Jewelry

18k yellow gold leaf cuff with scattered diamonds and polished rims.

With the price of gold breaking records daily, many jewelry artists and designers and switching to less expensive materials like silver. Not Barbara Heinrich. The Pittsford, N.Y.-based goldsmith and jewelry artist is continuing to make her 18k jewelry and says that business remains strong. That’s because she is using creative ways to make her work more affordable without compromising the beauty of her nature-inspired designs.

“I find that the way to continue designing in gold is to just keep things very open and airy and light and lacy,” the German native said during the Philadelphia Museum of Art Craft Show, held November 11-14. “I find that people continue to want to wear gold but we just need to adjust the designs to the new circumstances. … I have found this year we have done very well due to all the new designs we have developed.”

Her new 18k cuff bracelets (pictured at top) are lighter than they have been in the past but because of the superior fabrication process, they remain sturdy. Her rings, necklaces and bracelets (above) are open and airy, mostly made of circular patterns, so they are both light and attractive.

Etienne Perret and His Ceramic Jewelry

Jewelry designer Etienne Perret has been enamored with ceramic for about 20 years. But creating fine jewelry out of the extremely hard material has been difficult nut to crack. The solution was to use diamond cutting tools.

The Camden, Maine-based artist introduced his new line of rings and bracelets made from gem ceramic, at the Philadelphia Museum of Art Craft Show, held November 11-14 in Philadelphia.

The ceramic jewelry can be created in several colors—although white, black and pink seemed to be dominant colors at the show. The ceramic is paired with more traditional jewelry materials, such as precious metals, diamonds and pearls. And he can create custom pieces. With the high-cost of gold, Perret said his ability to work with the material may have come at opportune time.

“I had no idea when I started this that gold was going to end up at $1,400 an ounce, so the timing seems right because you can make a ring or bracelet with some volume and still keep the price affordable,” he said.

Photographs of his ceramic pieces can be found here.

Below is a video of Perret at the craft show explaining his work with ceramic and showing pieces from his collection.

Philadelphia Museum of Art Craft Show to Host 49 Jewelry Artists

The 34th annual Philadelphia Museum of Art Craft Show opens Thursday at the Pennsylvania Convention Center in Philadelphia. This exhibition and sale of contemporary American craft will host 195 of the best craft artists in the United States, selected from more than 1,300 applicants. A total of 49 jewelry designers and a select group of artists from Germany will be among those exhibiting and selling their work.

Etienne Perret  white gem ceramic band with light pink off-round cultured pearl.

The show offers an opportunity to meet craft artists and to learn about and purchase their work in a variety of forms and functions, including: glass, baskets, jewelry, fiber wearable, metal, paper, leather, furniture, ceramic, wood, mixed media, and fiber decorative works.

A gold bracelet from Judith Kaufman.

Five internationally renowned craft experts served as jurors: Elisabeth Agro, associate curator of American Art, Philadelphia Museum of Art; Michael Monroe, director of Curatorial Affairs, Bellevue Arts Museum, Bellevue, Wash.; Carol Sauvion, executive director, Craft in America, Beverly Hills, Calif.; Professor Rosanne Somerson, Department of Furniture Design, Rhode Island School of Design; Lewis Wexler, Proprietor, Wexler Gallery, Philadelphia.

The group of German craft artists featured in this year’s show was selected in conjunction with the German Crafts Council. The guest artist component was introduced to the Philadelphia Museum of Art Craft Show in 2001. Past guest artist groups include: Korea (2009), Israel (2008), Canada (2007), Finland (2006), Germany (2005), Ireland (2004), Great Britain (2003), First Nation (2002), and Japan (2001).

For the first time in 34 years, the show will feature the work of students from the Savannah College of Art & Design. The show also includes an online auction in which all items were donated.

The event attracts some 25,000 visitors over a four-day period. Funds raised are used to purchase works of art and craft for the museum’s permanent collections, support education programs, and contribute to conservation and publication projects.

Dates and hours for the 2010 Philadelphia Museum of Art Craft Show are: Thursday and Friday 11 a.m.-9 p.m.; Saturday,10 a,m,-6 p,m,, Sunday, 10 a.m.-5 p.m. General admission is $15. Two-day passes are $20. Children under 12 are $5. Tickets may be purchased at the door, or in advance by calling the Craft Show office at (215) 684-7930. Group admission can be arranged for 10 or more by contacting the Craft Show office.

The Pennsylvania Convention Center, the site of the Craft Show, is located at 12th and Arch Streets.

Met Museum to Sell Exclusive Jewelry Designed by JAR

JAR Lilac Brooches, 2001; diamonds, lilac sapphires, garnets, aluminum, silver and gold. From a private collection. Photograph by Jozsef Tari, courtesy of JAR, Paris.

To coincide with highly anticipated Jewels by JAR exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, the museum has announced that the famous jewelry artist has created a small collection of jewelry for the exhibition that will be available for purchase. 

The items include eight pairs of earrings and two watches ranging in price from $2,000 to $7,500. These pieces will be available exclusively at the Museum through the close of the exhibition. 

The museum, probably at the request of the renowned jewelry designer, will not have photographs available of the items for sale until November 18. The picture above will be one of the pieces in the exhibition and not for sale at the Special Exhibition and Mezzanine Gallery Shops. 

The exhibition Jewels by JAR will run from November 20 through March 9, 2014. The exhibition features more than 400 works by Joel A. Rosenthal, who works in Paris under the name JAR. Jewels by JAR is the first JAR retrospective in the United States and the first at the Metropolitan Museum devoted to a contemporary artist of gems.

Born in New York and educated at Harvard, Rosenthal moved to Paris soon after graduation and began to experiment with jewelry making. He opened JAR in 1978 on the Place Vendôme, in the same space he occupies today. 

“JAR jewels quickly became known for their unique design, the exquisite quality of the gemstones, and their remarkable craftsmanship—but above all for their fearless beauty,” the museum said in a statement. “Rosenthal’s extraordinary, one-of-a-kind creations place him among the ranks of history’s greatest jewelers.” 

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Jewelers of the Hudson Valley at Forbes Galleries

Lapis Wave Bracelet by Tom Herman, lapis lazuli,18k gold, platinum, enamel and diamonds.  Photo credit: Allen Bryan

Living within the immediate vicinity of the New Paltz area in upstate New York are a number of important studio jewelry artists whose work will be the focus of an exhibition at The Forbes Galleries in New York, April 9 – June 25.

Jewelers of the Hudson Valley, will feature the work of seven prominent jewelry artists: Jennifer Trask, Tom Herman, Pat Flynn, Jamie Bennett, Myra Mimlitsch-Gray, Arthur Hash and Sergey Jivetin. In addition, there will be pieces from the collection of the Samuel Dorsky Museum, State University of New York/New Paltz on display and selected works by students and graduates of the metals’ program at SUNY/New Paltz.

The guest curator is Elyse Zorn Karlin, co-director of the Association for the Study of Jewelry & Related Arts, Post Chester, N.Y., which is sponsoring the exhibition.

The Forbes Galleries are located within the lobby of Forbes magazine headquarters in New York, 62 Fifth Ave. The Galleries are open free to the public 10:00 a.m. - 4:00 p.m. on Tuesdays through Saturdays.

A curator’s tour of the exhibition is schedules for June 18 at 2 p.m. for anyone interested in signing up or one can be booked for groups of 10 or more by contacting Elyse Karlin at ekarlin@usa.net. There is no charge for a tour.

The Association for the Study of Jewelry and Related Arts, LLC is dedicated to the advancement of jewelry studies by individuals and in schools, museums, and institutions of higher learning. AJSRA publishes Adornment Magazine, a weekly newsletter, runs an annual fall event, numerous additional special events, and offers a number of other benefits.

Space Age Jewelry Creations

Tampa Necklace by Van Cleef & Arpels, white and yellow gold, diamond, sapphire, garnet, spinel and beryl. View at Forbes Galleries, March 16 - Sept. 7.

Lately, my inbox has been filling up with jewelry inspired by the heavenly bodies in the universe. As if aliens entered my e-mail, dropped off these images and left just as mysteriously. Why this is happening at this time I can’t say for sure. But these beings left behind some interesting jewelry as well as a notice of an upcoming exhibition at Forbes Galleries featuring jewelry influenced by outer space.

Pair of earclips by Tiffany & Co., 1962, gold, red coral. View at Forbes Galleries, March 16 - Sept. 7.

The exhibition titled, Out of This World! Jewelry in the Space Age, at the gallery on 60 Fifth Avenue (at 12th Street) will open March 16 and run through September 7. Curated by Elyse Zorn Karlin, co-director of The Association for the Study of Jewelry and Related Arts, It will include objects from more than 100 designers and lenders.

The Love that Moves the Sun & the Other Stars ring by Donna Distefano, 22k gold, meteorite and diamond. View at Forbes Galleries, March 16 - Sept. 7.

The images in this story include items that are part of the Forbes Galleries exhibition along with other pieces that have crossed my desk under the same theme. 

Moon landing pendant by Van Cleef & Arpels, 1969, yellow gold, ruby. View at Forbes Galleries, March 16 - Sept. 7.

Covering a variety of space-related themes through the context of materials and design, the exhibit includes vintage memorabilia and art objects relating to space. Jewelry with space motifs from the Georgian period through contemporary work as well as jewelry made from materials that come from outer space, such as: tektite, meteorite, pallasite, moldavite and moissanite. It will include works by Van Cleef and Arpels, Cartier and Tiffany & Co., along with established jewelry artists. 

Time Traveler Constellation cuff by Jason McLeod, 14k yellow, 18k yellow gold, platinum and turquoise. View at Forbes Galleries, March 16 - Sept. 7.

Among the exhibition highlights is the Van Cleef and Arpels’ Tampa Necklace, featuring detachable space-themed component parts, from a private collection. Another item from the famed Parisian luxury jewelry house is the Lunar Landing pendant, which was made to commemorate the first walk in space. Sputnik, Halley’s Comet, moon, star and planet-themed jewelry will also be seen, with abundant examples in fine and costume jewelry.

Horizon Pendant by Jacob Albee, 18k gold, 24k gold, ibeon meteorite, Tahitian pearl, white diamond, champagne diamond. View at Forbes Galleries, March 16 - Sept. 7.

There also will be other items that straddle the boundaries of art, jewelry and thematic objects. Among them is an an 18K gold Lunar Landing Module replica created by Cartier, designed to celebrate the first walk by man on the moon. Three of them were created for the astronauts that flew on the Apollo 11 mission and were gifts from Le Figaro newspaper. The one in this exhibition was given to astronaut Michael Collins. 

Rocket ship brooch, unknown maker, 1960s, platinum and diamonds. Lang Antiques, San Francisco. View at Forbes Galleries, March 16 - Sept. 7.

There will also be a unique watch on display made for the Jet Propulsion Laboratory, which tells the time on Mars. 

Shooting Star by Parulina, champagne diamond pave and 18k gold.

Jewelry that has been flown in outer space includes Ed White II’s West Point ring, worn in space, which will be donated to West Point after the exhibition ends. White is the first person to walk in space. Jewelry worn and flown in space by astronaut Cady Coleman will be on view. Coleman has flown in two space missions, which includes spending 159 days on the International Space Station as a member of Expedition 27. 

Milky Way Collection pendant by Nina Basharova, 18k gold. $2,150 retail.

On loan from Beads of Courage, will be "flown in space" beads. The organization is dedicated to providing programs and support for children coping with serious, life-threatening illnesses. 

Stargazer Pendant by What's Your Sign? 12 diamond "starz" surrounded by a universe of brilliant sapphires (2.2 ctw.) on a sapphire strand. $2,849 retail.

Other items include Donald Claflin’s Man in the Moon clip earrings for Tiffany & Co., which once belonged to Gloria Vanderbilt, as well as Bjorn Weckstrom’s “Princess Leia Necklace,” named because Carrie Fisher wore the same one in the awards ceremony scene in the first Star Wars movie. There also will be jewelry fashioned from materials created for the space race, including pieces made of: polymer, nitinol, dichroic glass, titanium and fiber optic glass.

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Cindy Chao’s Masterpiece Royal Butterfly Added to Smithsonian Gem Collection

Masterpiece Royal Butterfly, front view.

Cindy Chao has made a bit of history by becoming the first Taiwanese jewelry designer to have a work included into the Smithsonian Institute National Museum of Natural History.

Chao’s Masterpiece Royal Butterfly will be added to the museum’s celebrated gem collection on March 5 in the Janet Annenberg Hooker Hall of Geology, Gems and Minerals. The 2009 creation, part of Chao’s Black Label collection, was gifted to the museum by the artist.

The Royal Butterfly is composed of 2,328 gems, totaling 77 carats. The brooch is set with fancy-colored and color-changing sapphires (16.64cts.), rubies (8.74cts.), diamonds (19.67cts.), rough diamonds (16.63cts.), emerald-cut diamonds (1.64cts.), yellow diamonds (4.75cts.), fancy-colored diamonds (4.75cts.), and tsavorite garnets. The centerpieces of the butterfly’s wings contain four large faceted diamond slices stacked atop a pave layer of faceted diamonds, creating a pattern resembling the microstructure and scale of a living butterfly’s wings.

Masterpiece Royal Butterfly, back view.

When viewed under ultraviolet light, the brooch evokes what the Smithsonian describes as a “surreal quality,” with many of the gemstones appearing fluorescent and animate through an array of bright colors and reflected light. While some gems may appear colorless in daylight, under ultraviolet light they can burn a bright blue or green. Others burn a fiery orange or red.

Since the piece will be viewed by daylight, images of the Royal Butterfly under ultraviolet light will be featured on the museum’s website.

“The awe-inspiring array of colorful and glistening gems are indicative of Cindy Chao’s masterful designs,” said Jeff Post, curator of the museum’s Gems and Minerals collection. “She has artfully combined design, gem and setting to create a unique, exquisite jeweled butterfly.”

Chao’s artistry, her attention to detail and her architectural understanding is gained from her father who is a sculptor and her grandfather who was a noted Taiwanese architect.

She founded her company, Cindy Chao The Art Jewel, in 2004. In 2007, she became the first Taiwanese jewelry artist to take part in a Christie’s New York fine jewelry auction. Chao’s Black Label Masterpieces consist of one-of-kind jewelry artworks, limited to 36 pieces per year. Each Masterpiece is handcrafted over a period of at least two years, working from an original sketch and a wax mold and with rare, fine gemstones, which ultimately forges the three-dimensional works of art. Chao is considered by many to be one of the world’s most outstanding contemporary jewelry artisans, whose collections are pursued globally by influential and expert art connoisseurs.

“I believe that a piece of jewelry can reflect the history of an era, and being inducted into a leading institution like the Smithsonian is a dream for any artist, Chao said. “It is humbling to know that millions of visitors will be able to experience the Black Label Masterpiece Royal Butterfly brooch and be exposed to my art of high jewelry craftsmanship and creativity.”

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