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Showing posts with label Swiss watches. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Swiss watches. Show all posts

Fire Destroys Swatch Group ETA Workshop

The Valjoux 7750 or ETA 7750 is a widely used chronograph movement.  Photo credit: Wikipedia

A Sunday morning fire completely destroyed the Swatch Group's ETA workshop in Grenchen, Switzerland, the company said in a statement. No one was harmed as the facility was not in operation. 

The fire broke out at approximately 8:45 a.m. at the galvanic department of the main building and was under control at 9:30 a.m., Swatch Group said. The fire did not spread to other buildings in the complex, which contain other Swatch Group watch production subsidiaries.

"Thanks to the swift and efficient intervention of the ETA-internal fireworkers and the fireworkers of the town of Grenchen, the fire could not expand to the neighboring workshops," Swatch Group said in its statement.

The reason for the fire is not yet known, Swatch Group said, adding that it's too early to place a price tag on the damage. Company officials did not say how this will impact production. Local police informed nearby residents due to the heavy smoke. 

ETA is a subsidiary of Swatch Group. It designs and manufactures mechanical and automatic watches and watch movements. It is best known as the supplier of the overwhelming majority of movements found in Swiss watches.

Swatch Group Ltd., Biel, Switzerland, designs, manufactures, distributes and sells finished watches, watch movements, watch components, electronic systems and jewelry.

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Frédérique Constant’s Heart Beat Manufacture GMT Automatic


Swiss watch brand Frédérique Constant has released the newest member of its Heart Beat collection, the Heart Beat Manufacture GMT Automatic.

The new collection comprises of six models, each available in a limited edition of 1,888 pieces for the stainless steel versions and 188 pieces for the 18k gold versions. The calibre (cal FC-938)  contains a new second time zone functionality and a 42-hour power reserve. Its 30.50mm diameter sports 27 jewels, a KIF anti-shock system, Glucydur balance and a Nivarox balance spring. Bridges of the movement are decorated with Côtes de Genève (a decoration of undulating lines, reminiscent of waves) and perlage, and have anglage and rhodium-plated finishing.

Each dial has a second time zone counter and day/night indicator at the 12 o’clock position, Heart Beat aperture at 6 o’clock position, and black oxidized hands. Its practical design lends itself to adjust the time zones through the crown, preventing the usage of a separate pusher. Turn the crown clockwise, to set both time zones, turn the crown counter-clockwise, and only the central hands will move.

The “accessible luxury-segment” watches are packaged in a wooden gift box.

The history of the Heart Beat Collection dates back to 1994. The purpose of the Heart Beat was to distinguish mechanical Frédérique Constant watches from their battery-operated counterparts. The watches have a dial aperture at the position of the balance wheel to show that the movement inside is mechanical. The balance wheel beats 28,800 times per hour and rotates clockwise and counter clockwise on its axis in a large ruby jewel. Its rotation is controlled by the hairspring, which constantly coils and uncoils, and is visible through the open eye of the Heart Beat. In 2004, Frederique Constant became one of the few Swiss watch brands that develop and produce its movements in-house.

Bell & Ross Opens 'E-Boutique' in U.S.


Bell & Ross has begun selling its Swiss watches online in the U.S. in an environment the company calls an "e-Boutique." The new venture is a partnership between Bell & Ross and its U.S. retail network and follows the December 2009 opening of Bell & Ross’ e-Boutique in Europe.

Carlos A. Rosillo, Bell & Ross CEO, described the opening as an “important strategic step that enables the brand to provide the same excellent service to our American customers that our European clients enjoy.”

Stacie Orloff, Bell & Ross president - The Americas, said the company will continue to develop this e-Boutique model worldwide.

CORUM Opens its First Boutique in Switzerland

Officials perform ribbon-cutting ceremony at new Corum boutique in Geneva. (from left) Pierre-François Unger, Geneva government official, Loïck Peyron, sailor and Corum ambassador, Antonio Calce, Corum CEO, and Alain Guttly, boutique general director.
Swiss watch brand Corum opened its first boutique in its home country of Switzerland, in the watch capital of Geneva on Thursday. It’s the second branded store in the company’s 55-year history.

The new boutique is located in the Place Kléberg, along the shores of Lake Geneva, in an historical building inspired by classic Geneva-style architecture with four large bay windows displaying the company’s watches. The door handles are engraved with the brand emblem, the Corum key.

Inside, ebony wood furniture and flooring contrast with walls feature technical drawings of the brand’s movements and timepieces, evoking its watchmaking talent and its horological culture. The simple and refined interior design is enhanced by plasma screens showing films of the brand’s history with hints of its future. Bathed in natural daylight, the 753-square-foot area invites customers to stroll around and explore.


Interior of new Corum boutique in Geneva.
“Opening our first boutique in Switzerland bears witness to the level of maturity that the Corum brand has achieved,” said Antonio Calce, CEO of Corum. “On the one hand, it reflects our global distribution policy aimed at consolidating our selective distribution network while moving it up-market; and on the other, it testifies to the brand’s determination to invest in the long term.”

Corum, based in La Chaux-de-Fonds, opened its first boutique in Hong Kong in December, 2009. Its third store is planned to open in Shanghai in October. The company said more stores will follow.

Halladay Gives Baum & Macier Watches to Phillies Organization

It’s not often that a sports story makes it on to the pages of JNN, but here it is. On May 29, Philadelphia Phillies pitcher Roy Halladay threw a perfect game against the Florida Marlins, not allowing an opposing player to get on base. During the 135 years of Major League Baseball, a perfect game has been pitched 20 times. It is a rare feat. After all, it doesn’t get any better than perfect.

On Tuesday, to thank his teammates and others in the Phillies organization, Halladay gave each person a Baum & Macier watch, including coaches, clubhouse personnel and other staffers (even the bat boy), according to media reports. The 60 or so watches were engraved on the back with the date of the game and the linescore. Every watch was
personalized with the person’s name engraved on the back of their watch. The watches came enclosed in a brown box with the inscription, “We did it Together. Thanks, Roy Halladay.”

There are no details on the model of the watch given, whether it was the William Baume pictured, or another model.

Swatch Posts Huge Half-Year Gains


Swatch Group said the improved economic environment allowed the world’s largest watchmaker to increase gross sales by 22.2 percent to 3.03 billion Swiss francs ($2.9 billion) compared with the first half of 2009. This figure exceeds sales for the first half of 2008 and represents a new record. Sales increases were recorded across all segments and regions

Watch and jewelry sales, as always, was the Biel, Switzerland-based company’s main driver, rising 30.6 percent compared with the first half 2009. Net income was 54.5 percent higher at 465 million Swiss francs ($444 million), or 16.2 percent of net sales. Meanwhile, operating profit rose 81.4 percent to 626 million Swiss francs ($598 million), or 21.8 percent of net sales.

“Growth has been solid in July and we expect a strong result for the second half of 2010 in terms of both sales and profit,” the company said in a statement. “The Swatch Group will continue to expand its successful retail activities globally in the second half of 2010, for example with the opening of the Breguet boutique on the Bahnhofstrasse in Zurich. The major challenge will be to quickly overcome the capacity bottlenecks which already exist in some production areas.”

Following the sudden death of Nicolas G. Hayek, Swatch Group founder and chairman of the board of directors, on June 28, the company, within 48 hours, unanimously elected Mrs. Nayla Hayek as the new chair of the board of directors. The executive positions at Breguet and Jaquet Droz, which also became vacant, were also immediately filled with the appointment of Marc A. Hayek.

Swatch Group Underscores Strength of the Swiss Watch Industry


Swatch Group, the world’s largest watch company, said Tuesday that its watch and jewelry sales for the first half of 2012 grew 16.7 percent to 3.4 billion Swiss francs ($3.42 billion), year-over-year. The company owns 19 watch and jewelry brands in all market segments, including Swatch, Breguet and Longines.

The results by Swiss company underscores the strength and resiliency of the Swiss watch industry despite the economic problems facing much of the world. Last week, the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry reported that watch sales for the first half of the year increased by 16.9 percent to 9.5 billion francs ($9.55 billion).

Swatch Group—which also produces movements, hands, crowns, cases, screws, pallets, escapements, electronic circuits, batteries, ceramics and sapphire for its own products and its competitors—saw its gross sales increase 14.4 percent to 3.84 billion francs ($3.86 billion), surpassing the record 2011 half-year figure.

Operating profit for the first half of the year increased by 19.4 percent to 903 million Swiss francs ($908.6 million). Net income increased 25 percent to 724 million francs, year-over-year ($728.4 million).

The Biel/Bienne-based company, in its outlook, expects “dynamic growth in all segments and regions, notably also outside Asia,” for the second half of the year.

The Triple-Axis Flying Tourbillon Wristwatch


It’s difficult to say, much less build, but independent Swiss watchmaker Thomas Prescher says he has created the world’s only triple-axis flying tourbillon wristwatch.

As Prescher explain it, a normal tourbillon is supported by bridges top and bottom that obstruct a clear view into the tourbillon. He said he chose to make his triple-axis tourbillon fully “flying,” in other words supported by just one side so the triple-axis tourbillion can easily be seen.

The triple-axis tourbillon mechanism is driven by two conical gears. Prescher says the difficulty in supporting anything by just one end is balance. “When an object is supported on two sides its equilibrium is not as critical as if it is supported on only one. However, imagine balancing an object moving through not one, not two, but three different planes.”

The triple-axis tourbillon mechanism includes an escapement wheel, pallets, anchor, balance spring and balance wheel. It is extremely light, with the smallest screw weighing less than 1/1000th of a gram. But he says it is actually heavy in relation to the amount of energy available.

Prescher says one of the major issues regarding multi-axis tourbillons is ensuring an ample supply of power to the escapement, the mechanism that regulates timekeeping. To resolve this problem, Prescher added a constant-force device inside the tourbillon cage turning around the first axis. This device transmits energy directly to the escapement six times per second. The main power train drives the tourbillon and recharges the constant-force spring so that it always has sufficient power on tap for the escapement.

The triple-axis tourbillon mechanism can easily be seen inside its black onyx dial. Regulator-style hours and seconds are each indicated in their own separate sub-dial, while the constantly animated tourbillon tracks the minutes during its one-hour rotation. The dial and mechanism is housed in a pink-gold case.

Prescher is offering tours of his workshop in Twann, Switzerland, this summer. Visitors will be able to see how a timepiece is developed, produced, assembled and regulated; and learn about the machines used by watchmakers as well as the techniques they use to master their craft.

In addition, visitors will be able to sit at a watchmaker's bench and use their tools to work on real watch components, practice fine finishing techniques on a tiny steel part and, finish a real tourbillon bridge.

Contact Thomas Prescher at office@prescher.ch or at +41 (0)32 315 28 66 for more details.

Some Thoughts on Nicolas Hayek Sr.


 By William George Shuster

A powerful presence, suddenly gone. That’s what the unexpected death, by heart attack, of Nicolas Hayek, Sr., is like. It’s as if the mighty Matterhorn suddenly wasn’t there. Disappeared. Certainly, Hayek stood out among Swiss watchmakers like that famous peak does among the Swiss Alps.

That may sound grandiose—but Hayek, 82—chairman of the Swatch Group, the world’s biggest watchmaker, and the person who revitalized the Swiss watch industry—was a larger-than-life personality in the watch business. The center of attention wherever he went.

That was definitely the case at BaselWorld, the world’s largest and most important watch trade show, held annually in the Rhine River city of Basel, Switzerland. This is where, as the watch editor for JCK magazine, I most often had opportunities to see, interview or talk to him. Many of my memories of him there also exemplify aspects of the man and his professional life, such as:

* The many Swatch Group brands’ press conferences and events, most led by the multi-lingual Hayek, in Swatch Plaza (located in the center of the fair’s main watch building, with its 18 popular, mid-price and luxury watch brands located around the square). Hayek’s dominance of those press conferences and the location of Swatch Plaza itself were indicative the strength and importance of the man and his company to the Swiss watch industry.

* Patiently, happily posing for pictures for the frequent, small tumults of photographers and journalists that surrounded him, such as when he unveiled a replica of the famous "Marie-Antoinette” pocket watch (recreated by Swatch group-owned Breguet) at Baselworld 2008 or when he brought together astronauts and other heroes of the space age to mark the 40th anniversary of the first moon landing at BaselWorld 2009.

* Journalists knew he was also a “good interview,” with informed, intelligent and sometimes provocative comments. He knew how to charm and intimidate interviewers, keeping them on their game.

* Driving a “Moon Buggy,” with Gene Cernan, the last astronaut to leave the moon, onto Swatch Plaza, at BaselWorld 2004 at an Omega press conference. That not only demonstrated Hayek’s showmanship, but also underlined the interest of this engineer—who also fathered the Smart Car and had created a company in 2007 to develop “clean power” fuel cells for cars—in innovative technology.

* Wearing two or more watches on each wrist, with the cuffs of his shirts rolled up, to show off the various timepieces of Swatch Group’s 18 brands.

* Presenting Swatch Group’s watch brands’ debuts to leading Swiss government officials on BaselWorld’s opening day. Hayek was respected in the Swiss government for reviving the Swiss watch industry—a major pillar of the Swiss economy—in the 1980s, with innovative production and promotion of the popular, fashionable plastic-cased Swatch watch (still a best-seller with more than 300 million sold) and for the strength of Swatch Group, named for it.

Hayek’s dominance and actions didn’t please all in the Swiss watch industry. One sometimes heard complaints at BaselWorld by some smaller watchmakers about what they saw as the influence of Hayek, and Swatch Group, on the industry.

Undeniably, though, Hayek was a strong force within the Swiss watch industry, affecting it and the international watch industry—including its retailers and customers—through his company, his products, his pronouncements, his strong beliefs and his actions now and for years to come. That’s an impressive epitaph for any entrepreneur.

William George Shuster is a multi-award winning writer—including three Jesse H. Neal Award, business journalism's highest honor. He has 40 years experience as a journalist, author and editor. He is considered one of the world’s top watch industry journalists, covering the industry for JCK magazine and its sister publications for nearly 29 years. He was kind enough to share his thoughts of Nicolas Hayek, Sr. for the Jewelry News Network.

Images of Mr. Hayek are from the Swatch Group Web site.

The Oris Aquis Depth Gauge


The second and final installment of watches I missed at Basleworld but were able to see during Las Vegas Jewelry Week, deals with a specialty watch called the Aquis Depth Gauge from Oris. According to the Swiss watch brand, it is the first dive watch that measures depth by allowing water to enter the timepiece.

The company says it has applied "Boyle Mariotte Law" (which describes how the pressure of a gas tends to decrease as the volume of a gas increases) to the patented timepiece. The watch has a gray-colored channel milled into the side that runs counterclockwise around the dial, stopping between one and two o'clock. At 12 o’clock there’s a small opening. On descent, the air inside the channel is compressed by the surrounding water pressure, allowing water to enter through the opening. The edge, in light grey and dark grey, differentiates between water and compressed air on the scale around the outside of the dial, indicating depth while descending or ascending.

Besides being a cool addition to a diver’s watch, Oris says the depth gauge keeps divers safe as the indicator benefits from no inertia, so actual depth readings are seen instantly, which is useful in decompression breaks in lesser depths. It’s water-resistant to 500 meters/50 bar.


Other features of the watch include an automatic movement with a date window at 6 o’clock. The 46mm watch also comes with a waterproof case that contains interchangeable rubber and metal straps and tools.

The cost is approximately $3,200.

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Miss Earth Nicole Faria is Frédérique Constant’s New Brand Ambassador


Swiss watch brand Frédérique Constant went to India to sign its newest global brand ambassador, Miss Earth Nicole Faria.

The beauty queen is more than just a pretty face. She is a strong conservationist and environmentalist actively involved with earth-related initiatives. The Geneva-based watch brand recently announced this partnership in Mumbai where it presented Faria a special Chocolate Double Heart Beat watch to commence their association.

Frédérique Constant Chocolate Double Heart Beat watch

“I was amazed to hear of the fact that Frédérique Constant is a rare brand that supports earth-related initiatives,” Faria said. “I strongly believe that this earth is a legacy that we need to pass on to future generations and the time to act is now. Similarly Frédérique Constant is a brand that one would like to pass on to Gen-Next as a legacy. From the fashionista point of view, its classical styles is exactly what the Indian customer requires today.”

Originally from Bangalore, Faria is passionate about modeling and improving the world. Some of her more memorable moments were when she won the Miss India crown in 2010 and later the Miss Earth title. Her hobbies include listening to music, dancing, reading and visiting orphanages.

“In India, we decided to do something daringly different,” said Sebastien Cretegny, International Sales Manager, Frédérique Constant, said. “When we met Miss Earth Nicole Faria, we felt that there was a sharing of passion, especially when she spoke about her conservation projects. I am proud to announce that this is the first time that Frédérique Constant has associated with a beauty pageant icon anywhere in the world and it happened in India.”

Girard-Perregaux Gives Desmond Tutu 1966 Collection Watch


Nobel Peace Laureate Archbishop Desmond Tutu was in Los Angeles Thursday for a public conversation with author Robert V. Taylor titled, “How to be Happy, Change the World and Embrace a New Way to be Human.”

More than 500 guests attended the event at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art’s Bing Auditorium, which was followed by a private reception.

Also in attendance as an event sponsor and supporter of the Desmond Tutu Peace Foundation was Girard-Perregaux. The luxury Swiss watch brand presented Archbishop Tutu with an engraved 1966 collection watch in honor of his philanthropic accomplishments around the world.

The Desmond Tutu Peace Foundation helps people and societies create cultures of peace by developing programs that focus on young people through the use of new media and traditional methods.

Independent Watch Brands Make their Mark at Baselworld 2013

The Speake-Marin Triad

It’s officially known as the “Palace” but it’s actually a small, makeshift building on the Basel fairgrounds (Messe Basel), home of Baselworld 2013, the world’s biggest and most important watch and jewelry tradeshow. Royalty may not inhabit this portable building but what is inside are some of the most creative and innovative independent watchmakers in the world. These companies are joined by equally capable small independent watch brands that were scattered among the 1,460 exhibitors throughout the massive complex of buildings.

Their visions may be entirely different, but one thing these companies do share is keen intellect, creativity and passion. The individuals who lead these small firms are highly skilled at combining the highest forms of modern watching with an advance design esthetic and a singular vision.

It was impossible for me to visit them all but what is presented below are nine companies and their products as a representative sample of the technical prowess and artistry of these firms at the recently-concluded tradeshow. They are as follows:


Arnold & Son
The Swiss company with British heritage created what it says is the world’s thinnest tourbillon watch. Called the UTTE (Ultra-Thin Tourbillon Escapement), the case of this timepiece is 8.34 mm thick. It is equipped with the A&S8200 movement that is just 2.97 mm thick. The caliber was created in-house at the brand’s La Chaux-de-Fonds workshops. It is limited to 50 pieces.


Christophe Claret
The French native who operates out of Le Locle, Switzerland, introduced the Kantharos at Baselworld— a complex monopusher chronograph with an integrated in-house automatic movement. It features a striking cathedral gong at the 10 o’clock mark that chimes with each change of function. The constant-force escapement is on the dial side at 6 o’clock. The energy delivered to the escapement remains constant from beginning to end of the power reserve.


Da Vindice Geneva
A watch complication I never encountered is a barometer. It was a passion and challenge for Cosimo Vindice, founder of the new Geneva-based watch brand with Italian heritage, to include this and a tourbillon in a single watch built in-house. An aneroid barometer is used for the Da Vindice’s Videx Tourbillon Barometer timepiece. Atmospheric pressure is managed in a capsule, sealed with the air partially removed from it. The changes in pressure are visible on a subdial placed at 6 o’clock. The watch is designed to accommodate this complication. It is available in white or rose gold.


Dubey & Schaldenbrand
The stainless steel tonneau-shaped Grand Dome R92 Column Wheel Chronograph is another example of how this watch brand produces timepieces that combine vintage movements with modern craftsmanship and design. The R92 movement was originally fabricated in the 1950s. It uses a swivel-pinion design to synchronize the chronograph components. The dial is exposed providing full view of the movement.


Franc Vila
The Spanish native is one of the best-known and most innovative independent Swiss watchmakers in the world. The latest edition to his Intrepido Collection, the FVi No 8 Tourbillon Intrepido SuperLigero Skeleton, has a skeletonized hand-wound tourbillon and 100-hour power reserve. Its set into a grade 5 titanium case coated with black DLC, with an 18k red gold bezel. Visible through the sapphire crystal, the dial exposes the in-house movement.


Linde Werdelin
The German watch brand launched the Oktopus II Moon in a series of 59 pieces, available in two versions. The first 12 pieces, representing one piece for each moon of the 2013 calendar year, feature a rose gold and titanium DLC case with ceramic bezel. The following 47 pieces are available in a DLC titanium case with a ceramic bezel. The Oktopus II Moon’s complication, developed in-house, displays the phases of the moon on its dial as one would see it in the sky. As the moon moves clockwise through its monthly cycle, more of its surface is illuminated.


MB&F
The company that released a music box at Baselworld 2013 also decided it was a good idea to release an advancement to its well-known Horological Machine No. 3 (HM3) series: The Megawind. The focus of this piece is a giant battle-axe shaped winding rotor that swings unhurriedly, but indomitably, over the hand-finished movement. The titanium arms of the rotor intermittently reveal views through to the oscillating balance wheel. It’s available in red gold with a 22k red gold rotor or white gold with a sky-blue 22k gold rotor.

Speake-Marin (top photo)
One of the most passionate and intelligent independent watchmakers I met at Baselworld 2013 is British native Peter Speake-Marin, founder of the eponymous Swiss watch brand. His creations are complex in their functions and their stories, yet they adhere to the tradition of fine Swiss watchmaking. The Triad features triple hour-minute indications over an open dial powered by an Eros 2 automatic winding movement. Three is a number heavy with symbolism and meaning; encompasses beginning, middle and end; birth, life, and death; past, present and future. In music, a triad is a three-note chord played simultaneously to provide a single sound. It is available in a limited edition of 88 pieces in stainless steel with an 18k red gold bezel.


York
The new release of the Royal Black Caviar watch has all of the pomp one would expect from a watch brand fronted by Earl York, a prince of the former Schaumburg-Lippe, a tiny principality in the Lower Saxony region of modern-day Germany. The watch comes in a handcrafted Wengé case that includes a caviar service for two. However, this timepiece is more than just packaging. It is a serious traditional watch created by the Schaumburg Watch company, which York serves as creative director and shareholder. The 18k, 44 mm gold case is topped by a bezel set with 53 black diamonds and five black diamonds on the crown. The black textured strap is made of indo-pacific stingray leather with a textured finish that is looks like caviar eggs. The mechanical movement SW 07 is made in house. It is available in a limited edition of 99.

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Baselworld’s ‘Opening Act’

Baselworld representatives at opening day press conference.


BASEL, Switzerland — Baselworld, the premiere event of the Swiss watch industry, on Wednesday unveiled the latest renovation to the multi-building complex that it calls home. The $454.5-million upgrade reflects the spectacular success of an industry that has defied the trials and tribulations of the worldwide economy and a product that has remained popular despite changing fashion and trends. It also is a response to an industry now dominated by a few luxury conglomerates.

The eight-day watch and jewelry fair actually opens Thursday. Wednesday was press day, where top officials discussed the tradeshow and the industry in general. The discussion of the new design was described as Baselworld’s “opening act” by Sylvie Ritter, managing director of the tradeshow.

While several buildings underwent dramatic change under the leadership of architects Herzog & de Meuron, most eyes are focused on Hall 1, now rebranded as the “Global Hall.” It is the main area for some of the most world-renowned watch and jewelry brands. This year, the area not only underwent dramatic structural change, but occupants changed as well. Several brands (mostly independent) were moved to other areas of the complex. Now brands represented by global conglomerates Swatch Group and LVMH far outnumber independent brands. These include Hublot, Tag Heuer, Breguet and Bulgari.

Independent brands that remain in Hall 1 include Patek Philippe, Rolex, and Ulysse Nardin.

René Kamm, CEO of MCH Group, which operates the Basel fairgrounds (Messe Basel), explained that the redesigned hall is reserved for “watch and jewelry brands that have a global impact and a worldwide reach.”

Speakers put on a unified front and spent a great of deal of time thanking exhibitors. However, change this dramatic does not come easy and several exhibitors who have lost their space in Hall 1 were not happy (although refusing to voice their displeasure publicly).

All of this change also came at a price. Several brand executives told me (or refused to dispute) that exhibiting in Hall 1—which includes the construction of multi-story, elaborate temporary showrooms that also have been upgraded this year—now costs upwards of $5 million.

Jacques J. Duchêne, president of the Baselworld Exhibitors’ Committee, said it is the domination of luxury conglomerates that has led to the changes at Baselworld.

“In the course of the past 15 years, the watch and jewelry industry has been through a consolidation process on a scale never witnessed before, and this has also had its effects on the challenges faced by production and marketing, which have changed radically,” Duchêne said. “Now it is a good thing to take note of changes and to adjust to them, but it is even better still to anticipate needs and to be in a position to satisfy them without delay when they arise.”

The price hike and the pressure to create more elaborate booths were also felt among exhibitors who don’t have the deep pockets of the brands in Hall 1. A few companies actually pulled out of the show. Perhaps seeing an opportunity, Hong Kong-based tradeshow and publishing company, UBM Asia, will open its first tradeshow in the European market next year in nearby Freiburg, Germany, with dates that overlap Baselworld.
 
The international press at the opening of Baselworld


But even though some are a bit disgruntled, the 1,460 companies from 40 countries exhibiting recognize the importance of being there in terms of sheer numbers, glamour and international attention. Many brands will bring international celebrities along to help present their new products. More than 3,500 journalists from 70 countries will be covering the event and approximately 100,000 people will attend.

The show is also buoyed by the amazing success of the Swiss watch industry. In 2012, the industry has produced another record year with exports totaling 21.4 billion Swiss francs ($22.6 billion), a 10.9 percent increase over 2011.

“Today, it is thanks to this excellent state of health of the industry that we are able to present the show to you in its attractive new look,” Duchêne said. 

 Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes Website.

Hublot Unveils Its Big Bang Ferrari in Japan

Big Bang Ferrari

Luxury Swiss watch brand, Hublot, the official timekeeper of the Ferrari Challenge, unveiled the Big Bang Ferrari in Japan during the Ferrari Racing Days Suzuka 2012, held in Suzuka City, March 16 - 18.

Ferrari Racing Days Suzuka 2012 is one of largest events in the world for the Italian car manufacturer. One of its highlights was the Concorso d’Eleganza supported by Hublot, which brought together 18 classic cars from the 1950s and ‘60s.

Hublot’s Chairman, Jean-Claude Biver, attended the event—which included a charity auction in support of Ishinomaki City, affected by the earthquake and tsunami in 2011. Hublot donated a Big Bang Ferrari Magic Gold, for auction. The winning bid was 4.1 million Japanese yen ($49,100). Biver personally topped topped the bid with an additional $4,800.

Hublot Chairman, Jean-Claude Biver

The Big Bang Ferrari (top picture), a collaboration with the Italian car manufacturer, underwent its first update since it was launched in 2005. The design was done in collaboration with Ferrari. A larger case (45.5 mm in diameter), more power and more mechanical features, a cylindrical bezel that offers added depth, the movement which can be seen through the sapphire dial, an indexed crown (with the H logo which is automatically positioned to remain in line), elongated push buttons fixed along a rotating axis like the pedals in a car, carbon inserts on the case profile, two interchangeable straps, and the same tone-on-tone stitching used on Ferrari upholstery. The Ferrari Prancing Horse logo is featured discreetly in relief at 9 o'clock. A minute counter is positioned at 3 o'clock (completed by a yellow date window), and the hand and the style of the indexes are inspired by the counters in a Ferrari.

Finally, the Ferrari-endorsed pieces are made with Hublot’s Magic Gold, a scratch-resistant 18k gold the watch manufacturer introduced three months ago.

The timepiece was first unveiled approximately a week earlier at Baselworld 2012 in Switzerland.

In November 2011, Hublot became the watchmaking partner of Ferrari. It is a comprehensive agreement covering all the activities of Ferrari and Hublot, both in terms of brand image and the commercial activities of both companies.

Baselworld 2012 Closes with Strong Results, Upbeat and Confident

Business was brisk at Baselworld 2012 and the attitude of both exhibitors and buyers was upbeat and confident.

A fractured arm kept me from attending Baselworld this year Fortunately, veteran watch journalist, William George Shuster, kindly agreed to take time from his busy schedule to write a few stories from the tradeshow. Below is his fourth and final report.

By William George Shuster
Special Correspondent


BASEL, Switzerland — The just-ended Baselworld 2012, the world’s most important and largest watch and jewelry tradeshow, was one of the most successful in its history.

The eight-day show closed March 15 with a 1 percent rise in attendance (to 104,300, its second-highest attendance ever); a 9 percent gain (3,320) in the international press corps at the show; and almost universal satisfaction among vendors—especially those in the luxury sector—with the business, orders and contacts they had; and widespread confidence among retail buyers.

"It was a fascinating week, and truly a good year for us exhibitors. We are highly satisfied,” said Jacques J. Duchêne, long-time chairman of the show’s Exhibitors' Committee. Francois Thiébaud, president of the Swiss Exhibitors Committee, agreed, calling the show a "complete success."

Positive comments. Indeed, this year’s edition of the annual watch and jewelry trade fair on the Rhine in Basel, Switzerland, evoked positive comments from most vendors, both large and small.

Swiss luxury sport brand TAG Heuer, for example, welcomed 30 percent more retailers than last year. It also introduced movie star Cameron Diaz as its new brand ambassador. Luxury watch Hublot—which unveiled its one-of-a-kind $5 million diamond-encrusted timepiece--took “considerably more orders than in [2011],” said CEO Ricardo Guadalupe. At Swiss watchmaker Ellicott, “Response to our new watches—especially the world’s thinnest minute repeater with perpetual calendar (hand-wound)—was very good,” said CEO Pierre-Andre Finazzi to the show’s newspaper, “and price points and units per order are more than last year.”

Despite economic problems in Europe, the U.S. and many other regions of the world, an upbeat business attitude pervaded the fair’s buying and selling. Luxury watch brand Patek Phillippe, for example, noted “an exceedingly positive mood amongst our customers throughout the entire show,” said Jasmine Steel, international communications director, while at the Bulova Corp. stand, “People are excited about our groundbreaking products and technologies,” said Harvey Kaplan, regional vice president. “Business is hot,” declared Jacques-Philippe Auriol, CEO of TechnoMarine watches, to the show’s daily newspaper. “The booth is packed and clients are smiling.”

At Seiko, “sales are much better than expected, and there’s great interest in our new Astron GPS watch,” said Karou Matsumoto, public relations general manager. “Customers are cautiously optimistic, and we share their optimism.”

‘Gratifying’ business. In the Hong Kong delegation of vendors, the show’s second largest, “Purchasing behavior was gratifying and the potential in the boom markets, including Russia and Latin America, highly promising,” said Ralph Chow, director of product promotion for the Hong Kong Trade Development Council.

Gem dealers and vendors of technology and equipment, too, were generally upbeat about business result, as were jewelry firms. The German precious gem house of Groh + Ripp, for example, surpassed 2011’s good results by 25 percent. “The quality of the visitors was exceedingly good,” added Managing Director Bernd Willy Ripp. At Spanish jewelry firm Carrera y Carrera, “For the first time in three years, we don’t hear about the [financial] crisis,” CEO Nathalie Guedj told the BaselWolrd Daily News. “That reflects the very good business the jewelry industry did in 2011. People are confident about the future.”

The Swiss watch delegation was especially pleased. Following a record-breaking year in exports in 2011 (29.8 million watches, valued at 19.3 billion Swiss francs, or about $21 billion), its strong results for Baselworld 2012—driven in lager part by ongoing, growing demand for luxury products, especially in Asia, and China particularly, and “certain emerging markets”—promise another good year for Swiss watchmakers. “While it is always difficult to anticipate results,” said the Swiss Exhibitors Committee’s closing report. “This 40th edition [of Baselworld] augurs well for positive progress in 2012. The 20 billion franc export threshold should be easily crossed and thereby represent the third consecutive growth year [in 2012].”

The enhanced interest by the global media in the show’s news and trends and the sizeable increase in journalists covering the show was especially important to both vendors and show officials. It indicates the importance the show has gained with the global press, and “For exhibitors, the worldwide reports in the specialist, daily, business and lifestyle media, as well as in the online media, TV and radio, are of major importance,” noted Baselworld’s closing report. Luxury watchmaker Patek Philippe, for example, received over 800 journalists at it stand, “a considerable increase over previous years,” noted spokesperson Jasmina Steele.

A new era. For the 104,300 visits from 100-plus nations and the 1,851 vendors from 41 countries, this was the last time they would work in the current exhibition stands or rush hurriedly through its halls. But many said they were already looking forward to what show officials call show’s “new era” starting in 2013.

The show’s owner, MCH Group, is revamping the current Exhibition Square and its surrounding buildings, with an immense makeover valued at just under half-a-billion dollars. The expensive and extensive transformation—including two new three-story building, a two-building above the formerly outside Exhibition Square, a new events hall, and the tearing down of some of the show’s older buildings—transformation is being handled by Basel-based architects Herzog & de Meuron, who also designed the famous Bird’s Nest national stadium in Beijing. The new complex will have 141,000 m2.

Show Director Sylvia Ritter admitted to “a certain amount of nostalgia” for the current buildings sand fair grounds, which will be gone in weeks. “At the same time, I am looking forward impatiently and with great expectations to the new era that will be dawning for this world show,” she said.

The new complex, opening in April 2013, will also involve the relocation of many watch exhibitors in the current Hall 1 and the spending of millions of dollars by exhibitors on new exhibition booths and presentations. “Nearly all the brands will now be investing in their new stands for Baselworld 2013,” said Duchene. “This highlights the fact that we have a great deal of confidence in this [trade show] event, because [it] will be giving us exhibitors even more opportunities to experience positive developments in future."

The next show, Baselworld 2013, will be held April 25 – May 2, 2013.

William George Shuster is a multi-award winning writer—including three Jesse H. Neal Award, business journalism's highest honor. He has 40 years experience as a journalist, author and editor. He is considered one of the world’s top watch industry journalists, covering the world of timepieces for the past 30 years.

Baselworld 2012: End of an Era; Baselworld 2013: A new era begins

Inside Hall 1, the Hall of Dreams, where all the major watch brands at Baselworld 2012 are located. There will be changes among the exhibitors.

A fractured arm kept me from attending Baselworld this year. Fortunately, I know some of the best writers and experts in the jewelry and watch industry. One of those folks is William George Shuster who has kindly agreed to take time from his busy schedule to write a few stories from the tradeshow. Below is his third report.

By William George Shuster
Special Correspondent


Baselworld 2012, the 40th annual edition of the world’s largest and most important watch and jewelry show, may be its most successful yet.

But it also marks the end of an era for the trade fair. Indeed, there was a sense of finality about Baselworld 2012 that had nothing to do with business.

The reason: An enormous and costly restructuring of trade fair buildings and a redesign and revamping of Exhibition Square, the outdoor center of the fair, so total that international visitors and exhibitors from next year onward will not recognize the long-time fair site.

Indeed, Sylvie Ritter, the show director, called Baselworld 2012, a “milestone in the history of our trade show” and “a decisive turning point” before the “start of a new era” in 2013.

This newest modernization in a long history of renovations and expansions of the Basel fairgrounds is scheduled to finished and ready for the 41st edition of Baselworld in April 2013.

Trade show facilities that have housed the annual Baselworld and earlier Swiss watch and jewelry fair for much of the 20th and early 21st centuries are being torn down and replaced with massive new, three-story structures, costing millions of dollars. Show officials promise this enormous undertaking, the most extensive modernization and expansion of the show facilities in its history, will benefit both visitors and exhibitors immensely.

“With investments of around 430 million Swiss francs ($460 million), we will be able to provide our exhibitors, our trade visitors and our journalists with a fantastic trade show infrastructure,” said René Kamm, CEO MCH Group.

The 95-year-old Hall 1, site of  major watch brand exhibitors and the fair ground’s oldest building, will be rebuilt, with its front dismantled, and extended into the exhibition square by a three strew building. Hall 3, across the street (site for gemstone and equipment exhibitors) is being torn down and replaced also with a new three story complex, with a multifunctional event hall (capable of holding up to 2,500 people) on the ground floor. Linking these two buildings will be linked by a two-story complex (starting the second floor level of Hall One, roofing over exhibition square. The exhibition square (pictured left) itself will become a large atrium, open to the public and the trams which will continue to regularly ride through it.

The new complex will have a total of 141,000 square meters and will “ensure a greater level of convenience for our visitors,” says a show report. The final outcome is going to do justice to the expectations of our exhibitors,” says Jacquares Diichene, trade show chairman.

Also changing will be the locations of many exhibitors, especially those watch vendors on the first floor in Hall 1. And members of the Hong Kong exhibitors pavilion, the show’s second largest, will be moving from Hall 6 to Hall 4.

William George Shuster is a multi-award winning writer—including three Jesse H. Neal Award, business journalism's highest honor. He has 40 years experience as a journalist, author and editor. He is considered one of the world’s top watch industry journalists, covering the world of timepieces for the past 30 years.

Swatch Group Sales So Strong it’s Having Trouble Meeting Demand


Swatch Group, the world's largest watchmaker, enjoyed double-digit sales growth in February, continuing the strong trend seen the month before, Reuters and other media outlets report. Even the immediate issue facing the Swiss-based company is show of its strength. It needs to hire more people and expand its production facilities because it’s facing difficulty meeting demand.

Swatch is looking to boost its workforce by up to 6 percent as it struggles to meet surging demand in most of its markets, the Financial Times reports (subscription required). The group, which employs more than 25,000 people, is looking to create 1,500 new jobs in production and distribution in Switzerland to address bottlenecks across its business.

“All segments see extraordinary demand and all markets, with the exception of Greece and Japan, are growing,” Hayek reportedly said Thursday at the group's annual results media conference. “Stock levels are very low at the moment.”

The big challenge in 2011 will be to satisfy the high demand for all its products, Hayek reportedly said, while acknowledging its hiring plans might be thwarted by a lack of qualified labor, the FT reports.

ETA, the group’s main maker of watch movements, needed 500 additional staff, the FT reports Hayek saying. It produces parts for many group brands, notably Omega, and third parties. The company will invest between 200 million and 250 million francs this year to extend its production capacity to meet demand from its core affordable Swatch product to its Breguet timepieces, according to reports.

Hayek has set a medium-term target for the company to achieve annual sales of 10 billion Swiss francs ($10.7 billion) and said he expected to reach this within three years without acquisitions, Reuters reports. The group’s sales in 2010 were 6.44 billion Swiss francs.

Last week, Hayek reportedly said in a newspaper interview the group was aiming for record sales of more than 7 billion francs in 2011, Reuters reports.

Swiss Watch Industry To End Association with Swiss Business Federation

The Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry said it will end its association with the Swiss Business Federation (economiesuisse) at the end of the year because the business federation, which represents the diversity of businesses in Switzerland, will not support the watch industry’s definition of “Swisness.”

“By failing to support the Federal Council’s proposal for industrial products, which sets at 60 percent the minimum rate of Swiss value in a Swiss product, economiesuisse not only stands in the way of strengthening the protection of this label, but raises the likelihood of it becoming weaker than it is at present,” FH said in a statement.

One of the primary tasks of the FH is to ensure that watches, clocks and other timepieces meet a series of requirements to ensure the product was built within the borders of Switzerland. Those that meet those requirements display the “Swiss made” or “Swiss” label. Among the requirements are that the timepiece movement is made in Switzerland, the movement is “cased up” in Switzerland and the final inspection is done in Switzerland.

FH is also active in protecting the industry and its label from counterfeiters.

The FH in its statement says that the Swiss Business Federation “runs counter to the interests of the Swiss watch industry.”

“The watch industry is certainly the industrial sector most affected by this subject, considering that nearly 100 percent of its products carry the label,” the statement read. “The latter contributes to the attractiveness of Swiss watches and their psychological appeal.”

They argue that “strengthening of the Swiss-made label generally promotes industrial activity in Switzerland and job creation.”


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Swatch Group Reports Record Sales For 2013 But Warns of Overvaluation of Swiss Franc


Swatch Group Ltd., the largest Swiss watch business, on Monday said year-over-year gross sales for 2013 increased 8.3 percent to 8.82 billion Swiss francs ($9.7 billion), far outpacing the 1.8 percent growth for the rest of the Swiss watch industry at the end of November. 

“This clearly indicates the gain in market share,” the company, which consists of 20 watch brands encompassing all market segments as well as luxury jeweler Harry Winston, said in a statement. “In production, specific capacities have been expanded and put into operation. Additional increases in capacity are either in the planning phase or already under construction.”

The company—which designs, manufactures, distributes and sells finished watches, watch movements, watch components, electronic systems and jewelry—said that excluding production, revenue increased more than 10 percent.

It also forecasts a “positive outlook” for 2014, which has already begun with a “strong start by all brands.” 

However, the company warns that that despite its robust growth and forecast, the ongoing over-valuation of the Swiss Franc, particularly against the US dollar and Japanese yen, is having a negative impact on its sales. For example, in the second half of the year, the company said the negative effect of currency exchange rates cost it more than 100 million Swiss francs ($110 million). Its electronics operation reported a decrease of 3.9 percent due to price pressures placed by the overvaluation of the Swiss currency.

Despite this negative currency situation, it expects good results for 2013 at operating profit and net income level. The Swatch Group’s key figures will be published at the latest on 20 February 2014. Publication of the annual report at a media and analysts’ conference on 20 March 2014 is planned.

The company, in its statement, didn’t address a December 30 fire that destroyed its ETA movement operation. These watch movements are among the most common in the industry. They are used to power watches from Swatch Group brands such as Blancpain and Longines and for many other watches used by their competitors. It previously had said it will slow the production of watches by many brands.

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