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Showing posts with label Swatch Group. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Swatch Group. Show all posts

Fire Destroys Swatch Group ETA Workshop

The Valjoux 7750 or ETA 7750 is a widely used chronograph movement.  Photo credit: Wikipedia

A Sunday morning fire completely destroyed the Swatch Group's ETA workshop in Grenchen, Switzerland, the company said in a statement. No one was harmed as the facility was not in operation. 

The fire broke out at approximately 8:45 a.m. at the galvanic department of the main building and was under control at 9:30 a.m., Swatch Group said. The fire did not spread to other buildings in the complex, which contain other Swatch Group watch production subsidiaries.

"Thanks to the swift and efficient intervention of the ETA-internal fireworkers and the fireworkers of the town of Grenchen, the fire could not expand to the neighboring workshops," Swatch Group said in its statement.

The reason for the fire is not yet known, Swatch Group said, adding that it's too early to place a price tag on the damage. Company officials did not say how this will impact production. Local police informed nearby residents due to the heavy smoke. 

ETA is a subsidiary of Swatch Group. It designs and manufactures mechanical and automatic watches and watch movements. It is best known as the supplier of the overwhelming majority of movements found in Swiss watches.

Swatch Group Ltd., Biel, Switzerland, designs, manufactures, distributes and sells finished watches, watch movements, watch components, electronic systems and jewelry.

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A ‘Shocked’ and ‘Disappointed’ Tiffany & Co. Ordered to Pay $450 Million to Swatch Group


A long, simmering dispute between two powerhouses in the luxury jewelry and watch world appears to have come to an end when a Dutch arbitration panel ordered Tiffany & Co. to pay 402 million Swiss francs ($450 million) to Swatch Group for breach of contract. In addition, a counter-claim by Tiffany & Co. was dismissed by the panel.

The dispute, which has been ongoing since 2011, was argued before the Netherlands Arbitration Institute, which provides a confidential way of resolving such disagreements. The result of the arbitration in Swatch’s favor was announced in a very brief statement by the watch company Sunday followed by a much longer statement filed with the Securities & Exchange Commission Monday morning by Tiffany. 

Tiffany cut its forecast for the year based on the ruling and it says it will continue to seek legal remedies.

“We were shocked and extremely disappointed with the decision of the majority of the arbitral panel,” said Michael J. Kowalski, Tiffany chairman and CEO, in the SEC statement. “We firmly believe the panel’s ruling is not supported by the facts of this case or the various agreements between the Swatch parties and the Tiffany parties. While we are reviewing our options with our legal counsel, I want to assure you that we do have sufficient financial resources to pay the full amount. We will record a charge for the after-tax impact of the award, which we estimate to be approximately $295 - 305 million, in the fourth quarter.”

In 2007, the two companies announced that they signed an agreement to produce and market watches under the Tiffany & Co. brand name. In September 2011, Swatch Group had terminated the collaboration for what it termed as a breach of contract and pressed claims for damages in December 2011 against Tiffany. In March 2012, Tiffany filed a counterclaim with the court of arbitration in charge.

The original agreement between the two parties was that Swatch Group—which produces, markets and sells watches under approximately 20 brands from the popular low-cost Swatch watch to the prestige and luxury brand, Breguet—was to design and produce watches under the Tiffany brand name. Those watches were to be sold through Tiffany stores around the world. Tiffany apparently didn’t think the watches created by Swatch fit their brand image. Swatch charged that Tiffany did little to market and sell those watches.

Tiffany noted in its statement that one of the three members of the arbitration panel issued a dissenting opinion and that the amount awarded reflects approximately 8.8 percent of the damages claimed by Swatch.

Tiffany, according to its statement, was also ordered to pay two-thirds of the cost of arbitration (approximately $800,000) and two-thirds of the cost of legal fees ($8.8 million).

 “We do not believe that the award will impact our ability to realize our existing business plans in the short or long term, and we are extremely pleased to be moving forward with our plans to design, produce, market and distribute our own Tiffany & Co. brand watches,” Kowalski said.

Kowalski said the payments will be made from cash on hand and funds available under its existing debt facilities. The company said that the charges associated with the award will reduce earnings per diluted share for the fiscal year ended January 31, 2014, to $2.30 - $2.35 from the guidance of $3.65 - $3.75, issued a month earlier.

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Timepiece Tuesday: A new section that focuses on new products releases, events and important issues in the world of watches


Highlights for this week are:

* Swatch to reexamine its procurement of exotic leather;
* Global market for watches and clocks expected to reach $36B;
* Audemars Piguet Sponsored Golf Team Wins Ryder Cup;
* Piaget opens boutique in London;
* Seiko marks a milestone;
* New Italian Sports Watch;
* High-tech watch for the world traveler;
* Bollywood star launches watch line


Swatch and exotic leather controversy
Swatch Group acted quickly following a Swiss Television report on the deplorable conditions associated with the procurement of exotic animal leathers, particularly in Asian countries. The world’s largest watch company said it will reexamine its exotic leather sources to ensure they meet company criteria for “acceptable social and environmental conditions.”

“The Swatch Group FEPS (Far Eastern Procurement Service) Division will immediately attempt to determine if leather from the Far East is used and, should this prove to be the case, will undertake on-site inspections of all sources,” the company said in a statement. “Products from such doubtful sources as those described by Swiss Television have no place in the Swatch Group product offering.”

Emerging Markets to Drive Growth for Timepieces
The global market for watches is forecast to reach $31.5 billion, while Clocks market is projected to touch $5.2 billion by the year 2015, according to a report by Global Industry Analysts, Inc. Growing demand for watches & clocks in the developing world, particularly the BRIC countries (Brazil, Russia, India, and China), and increased acceptance of luxury watches and watches with fashion statement are fueling the growth.

Europe remains the world’s largest market for watches and clocks followed by the United States, according to the report. The fastest growth is seen in Asia-Pacific region. The fastest growth product segments are in watches for under $50 and luxury watches over a $1,000. After a decline in 2009, the European and U.S. markets are expected to slowly regain lost ground, according to the report.

Read more

Audemars Piguet Celebrates Ryder Cup Victory
The European golf team, comprised of four Audemars Piguet ambassadors— Graeme McDowell, Miguel Ángel Jiménez, Rory McIlroy, Lee Westwood (pictured from top)—has won the 2010 Ryder Cup, bringing back to Europe the prestigious trophy it lost on the other side of the Atlantic two years ago. Europe beat the American team by 14.5 points to 13.5.


Piaget opens Bond Street boutique
Swiss luxury watchmaker and jeweler, Piaget opened its UK Flagship at 169 New Bond Street, London W1. The two-story store, designed by French architect, Gérard Barrau includes perpendicular horizontal and vertical lines of the showcases and furnishings, a simple coloring scheme and discretely lit wall paintings. The store displays a full range of Piaget watch and jewelry collections. It’s Piaget's 71st boutique launch worldwide and is the first stand alone Piaget boutique.


Grand Seiko 50th Anniversary Collection
Japanese watch brand Seiko will launch of a series of six limited edition timepieces to celebrate the 50th anniversary of its Grand Seiko watch range. The Grand Seiko Anniversary collection includes spring drive, quartz and mechanical watches. Each timepiece features the Grand Seiko lion emblem on the dial (pictured), as well as the inscription “50th Anniversary 1960-2010.’ The spring drive and mechanical models include an 18-ct. gold lion emblem on their oscillating weights.


Parmigiani Fleurier Gets Sporty
Swiss luxury watch brand Parmigiani Fleurier has launched a sports watch in a limited series of 17 watches with a platinum case. There are 17 watches in the series because Bugatti produced 17 models of the Coupé Atalante between 1934 and 1940.

Read more


World Time e-ink watch
This curved, ultra-thin watch from Phosphor contains electronic ink, the same technology used for e-book readers, for its curved display, which shows the time in two time zones (home and away).

Read more


Bollywood star launches watch line
Bollywood star Salman Khan has launched a limited range of luxury watches named after his “Being Human” charitable foundation. Salman reportedly designed the 24 models himself and the money from their sale will support education and healthcare initiatives.

Read more

Update: Swatch Group Ends Partnership with Tiffany

The Atlas Chronograph watch in 2009, one of the first watches created by Tiffany Watch Co. Ltd.

Updated at 2 p.m. with a statement from Tiffany & Co. disputing the claims of the Swatch Group. See below.

In a terse statement Monday, the Swatch Group said it will end its partnership with Tiffany & Co. to make and distribute branded watches for the luxury jeweler and will seek compensation for the loss of business. The world’s largest watch group blames Tiffany for what it calls a “breach of contract.”

“Today Swatch Group terminated its cooperation contracts with Tiffany & Co,” the Biel/Bienne, Switzerland-based company said in a statement. “This action became necessary following Tiffany & Co’s systematic efforts to block and delay development of the business.”

In December 2007, with a great deal of fanfare, the two companies announced that it was creating Tiffany Watch Co. Ltd. The agreement, finalized in the spring of 2008, created an entity responsible for the development, production and distribution of Tiffany & Co. branded watches. Worldwide sales were handled through points of sale operated by Tiffany & Co., by The Swatch Group Ltd. and by independent retailers.

Tiffany Watch Co. Ltd. will wind down over the course of two years following the termination of the cooperation contracts, Swatch said in its statement, adding that it will seek damage claims.

“Swatch Group and Tiffany Watch Co. Ltd. will press claims for damages against Tiffany & Co., New York, in compensation for the loss of planned long-term future business.” 

Tiffany issued a statement at about 11:30 a.m. disputing the claims of Swatch Group saying that the watch company failed to uphold its end of the agreement terms.

“Since Tiffany & Co. and The Swatch Group Ltd. entered upon this venture more than three years ago it has become increasingly clear that Swatch is unwilling to honor the terms of our agreement, make the necessary commitments and work cooperatively to develop the business for TIFFANY & CO. watches in the luxury space, Tiffany said in its statement.

“Despite assurances to contrary made in 2007, Swatch has failed to provide appropriate distribution for TIFFANY & CO. brand watches, with the result that our current business forecasts do not include any meaningful increase in watch sales or royalty income. Tiffany has honored its obligations under the agreement, and insisted that Swatch honor its own obligations, particularly its obligation to respect Tiffany's rights regarding brand-management and product design. Tiffany & Co. is confident that its position will be vindicated in the pending arbitral proceedings in relation to this matter and Swatch's misconduct.”

Jewelry and Watch Brands Score Low on their Digital IQ




E-tailers and department stores lead the rankings and Jewelry & Watches and Accessory brands lag behind in their digital IQ.  Image source: Digital IQ Index: Specialty Retail, L2

E-tailers have the highest digital IQ, department stores saw the largest gain in their digital IQ during the past year and the digital IQ of home furnishings brands fell from the prior year. However, it is jewelry and watch brands who rate below every category with the exception of accessories.

The good news is that with a score of 68 the jewelry and watch category “vastly improved (over 2010 results) as brands began making investments in social media,” according to L2, a digital think tank, which published the ranking of 64 companies in eight specialty categories.

For its second annual survey titled, Digital IQ Index: Specialty Retail, L2 based its ranking on the following criteria:

* Website functionality, content and brand translation, 30 percent;

* Digital marketing, 30 percent;

* Social media 20 percent; and

* Mobile, 20 percent

This year’s rankings placed a stronger emphasis on the explosion of mobile purchasing (m-commerce) and the exceptional growth of facebook as both a social media marketing tool and as a newly minted e-commerce platform, known as f-commerce.

Based on the criteria, a scoring methodology was created and rankings for the brands were based on the following categories.

Genius, 140 and above;

* Gifted, 110 - 139;

* Average, 90 - 109;

* Challenged, 70 -89;

* Feeble, 70 and below

The only jewelry and watch brand that made the Gifted” category was Tiffany, which ranked 19th overall with a score of 118. “A jewel of a mobile app and smart digital cross promotion,” the survey noted.

Even e-commerce diamond jewelry standout, Blue Nile, took a hit in the survey, ranking 38th overall, which places it in the “Average” category with a score of 98. “Dated site for a child of the medium,” according to the L2 survey. Ouch.  

Others getting an average grade are

* 43 Cartier, score of 96, “Good-looking, but faulty site mechanics;”

* 45 Swarovski, 94, “Social media properties shimmer, but site has lost its sparkle;” and

* 47 Swatch, 92, “Multi-site e-commerce navigation lacks intuition.”

Zales Jewelers, which ranked 52nd, was the only watch and jewelry brand in the “Challenged” category with a score of 83; “Enhancing mobile and YouTube offering would help.”

Then there’s Tourneau, which ranked dead last in the survey at 64th with a score of 43. It is one of only two brands to place in the “Feeble” category for failing to have an e-commerce site. “Clock is ticking before getting completely left behind,” the survey states.

No jewelry and watch brands made the Genius category.

“On average, users spend more time on brand sites with higher Digital IQs,” L2 said in its survey. “This uptick in site visits also translates to more site visits per user and higher frequency visits.”

There is some good news in the survey for jewelry and watch brands. It includes:

* Tiffany & Co. is among those considered a facebook overachiever based on its facebook page popularity;

* Swarovski facebook page attracted nearly 1.3 million "Likes," the ninth highest among those surveyed.

* Cartier has one of the fastest growing twitter accounts, ranking eighth overall;

* Cartier ranks third and Tiffany ranks fifth among brands with the most upload views on YouTube; and

* Cartier's Calibre de Cartier, Mechanics of Passion, (Short Version) Youtube video is among the most popular brand videos, ranking eighth, with more than 1.3 million views.

Other survey highlights after the page break:

* The top three companies in the survey and the ones only earning a spot in “Genius” category are Macy’s, Victoria’s Secret and Nordstrom. Rounding out the top five are Sephora and Urban Outfitters.

Apart from search engines, facebook is the leading source of both upstream and downstream traffic to and from nearly every retailer’s site.

* Examination of retailers’ facebook walls reveals that fans are most receptive to product-related messaging.

* Thirteen percent of brands surveyed are on the cusp of breaking into f-commerce, offering heavily curated product catalogs with live links from their facebook page to product pages on their e-commerce site.

* The most profound shift from the 2010 Index was the pace of mobile adoption across platforms. In last year’s study, less than 30 percent of brands were optimized for a mobile platform. This year 67 percent of brands support a mobile site, and nearly 45 percent have an iPhone app. Adoption of the iPad is nascent, but rapidly gaining momentum, growing six-fold since 2010.

* “A missed opportunity for retailers in mobile is Android adoption,” L2 said in its survey. Android users’ ad impression share surpassed that of iOS mobile users in December 2010. In April, Nielsen reported that more consumers plan to buy a smartphone powered by Android than any other OS.8 Gilt Groupe, Rue La La, and Macy’s were the only brands in the study to offer any type of Android app.

Richemont Expects Huge Sales and Profits as Hard Luxuries Continue to Sparkle

Montblanc boutique in Hamburg. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

A luxury slowdown in China, a European economy under constant crisis, and sluggish growth in the U.S. has failed to slow the growth in the sale of “hard luxuries” (jewelry and watches). The latest example is Geneva-based Compagnie Financière Richemont, which issued a statement Monday saying that it expects first half profits to rise from 20 percent to 40 percent, year-over-year.

Richemont—whose brands include Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Montblanc and Vacheron Constantin—was required to make this statement prior to its sales and profits reports for the first half of the year. SIX Swiss Exchange requires that issuers make an immediate announcement when “the foreseeable profit or loss for a given period is expected to deviate significantly from the profit or loss achieved in the prior-year period.”

In accordance with these requirements Richemont said that sales for the four months ended in July rose 24 percent on a reported basis and 13 percent on a constant-exchange basis. Based on these results, Richemont’s said its operating profit for the six months ending September 30 is likely to show an increase of between 20 percent and 40 percent compared to the first six months of the last financial year.  Net profit for the same period may also increase by 20 percent and 40 percent.

Richemont sales for the five months ending August 31 will be announced on September 5 first-half results for period ending September 30 will be announced November 9.

This is the latest in financial reports that are revealing the resiliency and strength in hard luxuries.

* In late July, Paris-based LVMH reported revenue growth of 26 percent, year-over-year to $16 billion for the first half of 2012. Group profit rose 28 percent to $2 billion. The luxury group, whose jewelry and watch brands include Tag Heuer, Hublot and Bulgari, acquired in June 2011, reported that total jewelry and watch sales rose 113 percent to $1.6 billion, with Bulgari's revenue now included. Organic growth was 13 percent.

* A few days earlier, Swatch Group, the world’s largest watch company, said its watch and jewelry sales for the first half of 2012 increased 16.7 percent to $3.42 billion, year-over-year. The company owns 19 watch and jewelry brands in all market segments, including Swatch, Breguet and Longines.

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Swatch Posts Huge Half-Year Gains


Swatch Group said the improved economic environment allowed the world’s largest watchmaker to increase gross sales by 22.2 percent to 3.03 billion Swiss francs ($2.9 billion) compared with the first half of 2009. This figure exceeds sales for the first half of 2008 and represents a new record. Sales increases were recorded across all segments and regions

Watch and jewelry sales, as always, was the Biel, Switzerland-based company’s main driver, rising 30.6 percent compared with the first half 2009. Net income was 54.5 percent higher at 465 million Swiss francs ($444 million), or 16.2 percent of net sales. Meanwhile, operating profit rose 81.4 percent to 626 million Swiss francs ($598 million), or 21.8 percent of net sales.

“Growth has been solid in July and we expect a strong result for the second half of 2010 in terms of both sales and profit,” the company said in a statement. “The Swatch Group will continue to expand its successful retail activities globally in the second half of 2010, for example with the opening of the Breguet boutique on the Bahnhofstrasse in Zurich. The major challenge will be to quickly overcome the capacity bottlenecks which already exist in some production areas.”

Following the sudden death of Nicolas G. Hayek, Swatch Group founder and chairman of the board of directors, on June 28, the company, within 48 hours, unanimously elected Mrs. Nayla Hayek as the new chair of the board of directors. The executive positions at Breguet and Jaquet Droz, which also became vacant, were also immediately filled with the appointment of Marc A. Hayek.

Record Sales at Swatch Group, but Strong Swiss Franc Cuts Margins


Watch and jewelry sales at the Swatch Group rose 24 percent at constant exchange rates to 2.9 billion Swiss francs ($3.6 billion) for the first half of 2011. At current exchange rates the increase was 13.3 percent for the six-month period. Total sales increased 24.2 percent at constant exchange rates to a record $3.36 billion Swiss francs ($4.17 billion). At current exchange rates the increase was 13.3 percent.

The Biel/Bienne-based company owns 19 watch and jewelry brands and also produces watch components and electronics, has its own distribution network, its own retail stores and owns and manages museums for some of its better-known watch brands.

“This very positive growth spanned all major regions and all price segments. Key contributory factors included not only a combination of strong brands and expansion of the distribution and retail network, but also the Production segment, which increased its gross sales by a massive +28.5% at constant rates,” the company, which owns 19 brands, said in a statement.

The company, as shown by the growth difference between constant and current exchange rates, has been hampered by the Swiss franc which has gained 31 percent in value against the U.S. dollar. The company said the impact of the rising currency amounted to a loss of 387 million Swiss francs ($481.4 million) or 12.8 percent.

“The overvalued Swiss franc reduces margins at the Group’s foreign distribution companies, while the high volatility makes exchange-rate related price adjustments difficult,” the company said. “The strength and volatility of the Swiss franc have to be considered as extremely problematic for Switzerland.”

Its operating profit for the first-half of 2011 increased 20.8 percent to a record $756 million Swiss francs ($940.5 million), with an operating margin of 23.7 percent. Net income increased 24.5 percent to 579 million Swiss francs ($720.3 million), representing 18.2 of net sales for the first half of 2011.

Swatch Group Brands Prepare to Bring their 2014 Watches to Market

Breguet Celebrated "Tourbillon Day" at its Fifth Avenue boutique with a cake decorated as a tourbillon. 

In June Manhattan served as a final staging area as several Swatch Group brands held previews of their Baselworld 2014 releases. Most of the watches will appear on store shelves beginning September. However, some are already on sale.

Breguet Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel 3797

Breguet had been the most creative in using this time by hosting Tourbillon Day on June 26 at its Fifth Avenue boutique. Press members and VIP clientele were treated to a cake decorated as a tourbillon movement; champagne toasts; and a display of the brand’s most important tourbillon watches, including its 2014 Baselworld releases. The company even brought in Nakis Karapatis, Breguet’s head of Research & Development, to present a lecture on the history and function of the tourbillon.

Blancpain One Minute Flying Carrousel and Moon Phase

The celebration was created just last year by the luxury watch brand to commemorate the day that the brand’s founder and namesake, Abraham-Louis Breguet, patented the tourbillon on June 26, 1801. The invention (whose name translates as “whirlwind or “whirlpool”) was intended to compensate for the errors and fluctuations in functioning due to gravity and the natural changes in a watch’s position. It is prized by watch collectors not only for its functionality but for its beauty, particularly when exposed on a dial.

Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Paillonné Enamel

I’ll leave the argument of whether a tourbillon is a complication for another day.

Glashütte Original Senator Chronograph Panorama Date 

If all this tourbillon talk has your head spinning, wait till you read about the carrousel movement. It may look like a tourbillon and act like a tourbillon but it’s different, according to Adam Bossi, Blancpain US brand manager. He spoke at a press lunch a week before the Swatch event at the outdoor rooftop lounge of the Nomad hotel in Manhattan, where its new Baselworld novelties were presented. Like the tourbillon, the carrousel counteracts and neutralizes the effects of deceleration and acceleration of the balance wheel caused by the gravitational pull of the Earth. However, while a tourbillon consists of a rotating carriage; a carrousel consists of a platform on which the balance wheel and its bridge go round like a wooden horse on a merry-go-round, the reason for its name. Bossi said.

Longines Equestrian Lépine

Bossi also provided some details of the new Blancpain New York boutique, set to open at anytime now. Be prepared for some high-tech imagery and interactive displays.

Tissot T-Touch Expert Solar

In the morning of the same day that Breguet had its celebration, luxury watch brands Jaquet Droz and Glashütte Original held a joint press breakfast at Lincoln Center for the reason of presenting its Baselworld 2014 collection.

Breguet Reine De Naples Princesse 8968 Ladies

Tissot was also quite busy in June, opening a new dedicated display (also known as a “shop-in-shop”) at the Toureanu TimeMachine store at 57th and Madison Avenue. It highlights Tissot’s new advertising campaign and its Baselworld 2014 introductions, getting a head start on many other brands.

Blancpain Off-Centered Hour Ladies

However, few watch brands were busier during the month of June (and May for that matter) than Longines, which was a presence at each leg of horseracing’s “Triple Crown,” as the official timekeeper and official watch for the world’s most celebrated horseracing series. The watch brand released a number of models at Baselworld, including one commemorating other equestrian events it supports.

Longines Elegant Collection Ladies

So here’s a final look before you’ll be able to see these releases in stores around the world.

Tissot T-Touch Lady Solar

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Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Circled Ladies 

Glashütte Original Pavonina White Gold Ladies 


Swatch Group Underscores Strength of the Swiss Watch Industry


Swatch Group, the world’s largest watch company, said Tuesday that its watch and jewelry sales for the first half of 2012 grew 16.7 percent to 3.4 billion Swiss francs ($3.42 billion), year-over-year. The company owns 19 watch and jewelry brands in all market segments, including Swatch, Breguet and Longines.

The results by Swiss company underscores the strength and resiliency of the Swiss watch industry despite the economic problems facing much of the world. Last week, the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry reported that watch sales for the first half of the year increased by 16.9 percent to 9.5 billion francs ($9.55 billion).

Swatch Group—which also produces movements, hands, crowns, cases, screws, pallets, escapements, electronic circuits, batteries, ceramics and sapphire for its own products and its competitors—saw its gross sales increase 14.4 percent to 3.84 billion francs ($3.86 billion), surpassing the record 2011 half-year figure.

Operating profit for the first half of the year increased by 19.4 percent to 903 million Swiss francs ($908.6 million). Net income increased 25 percent to 724 million francs, year-over-year ($728.4 million).

The Biel/Bienne-based company, in its outlook, expects “dynamic growth in all segments and regions, notably also outside Asia,” for the second half of the year.

Swatch Group Sees Strong Growth Potential For Harry Winston

The Harry Winston salon in Paris.

The Swatch Group has big plans for the recently acquired Harry Winston brand, finding it an asset that is both complimentary and with plenty of room for growth.

The Swiss conglomerate on Tuesday for the first time partly revealed what it plans for the luxury
retail brand during its earnings report for the first half of the year. The company, which now owns 20 watch and jewelry brand, said that gross sales for the period increased 8.7% year-over-year to 4.18 billion Swiss francs ($4.47 billion). Net income increased 6.1% compared to the first half of 2012 to 768 million Swiss franc ($821,700), with a 19.2% return on net sales. Sustained growth was reported in all regions.

“The continued integration of the Harry Winston brand will … make a significant contribution, as this brand has huge, almost untapped market potential in the high jewelry and watches activities,” the company said, adding that this potential will start to be seen in the second half of the fiscal year.

Swatch Group said that following its $1 billion acquisition of Harry Winston in March, the conglomerate invested in infrastructure, settled all debts, expanded its equity capital base and increase inventory. “The latter was initiated in order to ensure that our clientele has access to the best selection of jewelry as well as to increase its availability,” Swatch Group said in its earnings statement.

“The acquisition of the Harry Winston brand did more than simply round off the group’s already broad brand portfolio; it also expanded the high jewelry segment, along with the segment’s value chain from production up to and including the retail network,” Swatch added.

In May, Swatch Group, in Harry Winston’s name, purchased a 101.73-carat diamond at auction for $26.7 million and renamed it the “Winston Legacy,” explaining that it “reconfirms the number one position of this high jewelry brand.”

Swatch says that its see the luxury watch segment of the brand as having the best potential for worldwide growth.

“The Harry Winston brand has an extremely large and almost untapped potential in the watch sector, which the group now aims to expand further using its experience around the world,” the company said. “The necessary funds will also be invested into this activity.”

In fact, the acquisition led to some company restructuring by integrating the production division into the watches and jewelry business unit. “This integration will also provide a more uniform view of activities, facilitating comparability with our competitors.”

Other highlights of the company’s first-half report include:

• Benchmarked to the 1.5% export growth for wristwatches of the Swiss watch industry in the first half of 2013, the segment Watches & Jewelry (now including production) growth was more than 9%.

• An operating profit of 910 million Swiss francs ($973,500) was recorded, with an operating margin of 22.7%, despite a high marketing spend, important investments in products and production methods, and the integration of Harry Winston.

The company said its outlook “remains very promising,” expecting a strong second half. 


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Some Thoughts on Nicolas Hayek Sr.


 By William George Shuster

A powerful presence, suddenly gone. That’s what the unexpected death, by heart attack, of Nicolas Hayek, Sr., is like. It’s as if the mighty Matterhorn suddenly wasn’t there. Disappeared. Certainly, Hayek stood out among Swiss watchmakers like that famous peak does among the Swiss Alps.

That may sound grandiose—but Hayek, 82—chairman of the Swatch Group, the world’s biggest watchmaker, and the person who revitalized the Swiss watch industry—was a larger-than-life personality in the watch business. The center of attention wherever he went.

That was definitely the case at BaselWorld, the world’s largest and most important watch trade show, held annually in the Rhine River city of Basel, Switzerland. This is where, as the watch editor for JCK magazine, I most often had opportunities to see, interview or talk to him. Many of my memories of him there also exemplify aspects of the man and his professional life, such as:

* The many Swatch Group brands’ press conferences and events, most led by the multi-lingual Hayek, in Swatch Plaza (located in the center of the fair’s main watch building, with its 18 popular, mid-price and luxury watch brands located around the square). Hayek’s dominance of those press conferences and the location of Swatch Plaza itself were indicative the strength and importance of the man and his company to the Swiss watch industry.

* Patiently, happily posing for pictures for the frequent, small tumults of photographers and journalists that surrounded him, such as when he unveiled a replica of the famous "Marie-Antoinette” pocket watch (recreated by Swatch group-owned Breguet) at Baselworld 2008 or when he brought together astronauts and other heroes of the space age to mark the 40th anniversary of the first moon landing at BaselWorld 2009.

* Journalists knew he was also a “good interview,” with informed, intelligent and sometimes provocative comments. He knew how to charm and intimidate interviewers, keeping them on their game.

* Driving a “Moon Buggy,” with Gene Cernan, the last astronaut to leave the moon, onto Swatch Plaza, at BaselWorld 2004 at an Omega press conference. That not only demonstrated Hayek’s showmanship, but also underlined the interest of this engineer—who also fathered the Smart Car and had created a company in 2007 to develop “clean power” fuel cells for cars—in innovative technology.

* Wearing two or more watches on each wrist, with the cuffs of his shirts rolled up, to show off the various timepieces of Swatch Group’s 18 brands.

* Presenting Swatch Group’s watch brands’ debuts to leading Swiss government officials on BaselWorld’s opening day. Hayek was respected in the Swiss government for reviving the Swiss watch industry—a major pillar of the Swiss economy—in the 1980s, with innovative production and promotion of the popular, fashionable plastic-cased Swatch watch (still a best-seller with more than 300 million sold) and for the strength of Swatch Group, named for it.

Hayek’s dominance and actions didn’t please all in the Swiss watch industry. One sometimes heard complaints at BaselWorld by some smaller watchmakers about what they saw as the influence of Hayek, and Swatch Group, on the industry.

Undeniably, though, Hayek was a strong force within the Swiss watch industry, affecting it and the international watch industry—including its retailers and customers—through his company, his products, his pronouncements, his strong beliefs and his actions now and for years to come. That’s an impressive epitaph for any entrepreneur.

William George Shuster is a multi-award winning writer—including three Jesse H. Neal Award, business journalism's highest honor. He has 40 years experience as a journalist, author and editor. He is considered one of the world’s top watch industry journalists, covering the industry for JCK magazine and its sister publications for nearly 29 years. He was kind enough to share his thoughts of Nicolas Hayek, Sr. for the Jewelry News Network.

Images of Mr. Hayek are from the Swatch Group Web site.

Nicolas G. Hayek, founder of Swatch Group, 82


The man who is credited with having saved the Swiss watch industry in the age of the “quartz” watch boom has died.

Nicolas Hayek, founder and chairman of the Swatch Group, died of heart failure Monday while working at the company’s headquarters in Biel, Switzerland, according to an announcement on the Swatch Group’s Web site. He was 82.

“Mr. Nicolas G. Hayek's greatest merit was his enormous contribution to the saving of the Swiss watch industry and the foundation and the commercial development of the Swatch Group,” the statement on the company’s Web site read. “(His) extraordinary vision enabled him to realize and ensure the sustainability of a strong watchmaking enterprise with high Swiss added value. He is rightly recognized as a leading entrepreneur in this country.”

The Lebanese-born business consultant and engineer was asked by creditor banks to reorganize and possibly close a group of mechanical watchmakers and component suppliers suffering in the early 1980s as watchmakers from Japan undercut Swiss prices and moved public tastes from mechanical to digital watches. Rather than follow the creditors’ opinion, he and some partners spotted the business's potential and invested in its future. He merged two of its former companies, Asuag and SSIH, which between them owned brands like Omega, Longines and Tissot.

In 1983, he launched the Swatch, a technological innovative watch manufactured far more easily than conventional watches by greatly reducing components and automating many processes. The Swatch soon became prized for its bright bands and novelty faces and developed into a global fashion item.

Over the years, the various manufacturing companies were restructured and, in 1998, renamed Swatch Group after their most familiar product. Brands and watch component companies were also acquired. The company owns 19 brands and sales this year are expected to exceed $5.8 billion.

Hayek had handed the chief executive's role to his son, Nick. However, he remained Swatch Group's chairman.


Read his obituary in The New York Times

Harry Winston and Swatch Group Pay $26.7 Million for 101-Ct. ‘Perfect Diamond’


The Swatch Group and HarryWinston are celebrating their new partnership with the purchase of a pear-shaped, D color, flawless diamond of 101.73 carats for more than $26.7 million at Christie’s Geneva Magnificent Jewels Sale Wednesday.

Billed by the auction house as the “perfect diamond,” the price paid set a world auction record for a colorless diamond. The diamond (which sold for $254,400 per carat) has been renamed “The Winston Legacy.”

“The acquisition of ‘Winston's Legacy’ underscores the brand’s continued commitment to perfection and quality at the highest level. A stone of this caliber and rarity is the perfect continuation of Mr. Winston’s legacy as the King of Diamonds,” said Nayla Hayek, the new CEO of Harry Winston.

Rahul Kadakia, head of Jewelry, Christie's Switzerland and Americas, added: “Harry Winston acquired the most perfect diamond ever offered for sale at auction, ‘Winston Legacy,’ continuing the tradition of buying and selling only the very best, a trait of the founder Mr. Winston himself.”

The diamond was the top lot in a sale that fetched a record-breaking $102.1 million, selling 86% by lot and 93% by value, the highest result ever for a various-owner jewelry auction at Christie’s. It included several world records for diamonds, pearls and sapphires. A total of 20 lots sold above $1 million with 147 buyers coming from 31 countries across five continents, Christie’s said.

Among the other notable purchases at Christie’s Geneva Magnificent Jewels Sale, are:

* 19.88-carat cushion-shaped Kashmir sapphire, named “The Star of Kashmir” sold for more than $3.4 million, or $175,202 per carat, breaking the world auction record for a per-carat sale of a sapphire.

* Single strand of natural pearls measuring from 13.7 to 10.4mm sold for more $8.4 million, setting a world auction record for a single-strand natural pearl necklace.

Drop-shaped natural pearl ear pendants of 261.66 and 216.37 grains sold for more than $2.4 million, setting a world auction record for a pair of pearl ear pendants.

* 1.92-carat fancy red diamond sold for $3.2 million, setting a world auction price for a red diamond.

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Harry Winston Buys World’s Largest Flawless Vivid Blue Diamond For $23.8M and Names it ‘The Winston Blue’


Meet “The Winston Blue,” considered the world’s largest known flawless vivid blue diamond. Harry Winston purchased the sparkling gem for nearly $23.8 million at Christie’s Geneva Magnificent Jewels sale. At nearly $1,800 per carat, the price per carat paid for the 13.22-carat stone represents a world record for a blue diamond.

It is the second major diamond purchase by Harry Winston since it was acquired by the Swatch Group, one of the world’s largest watch and jewelry conglomerates. Last year, Harry Winston purchased a 101.73-carat colorless diamond for a world record $26.7 million ($254,400 per carat), at Christie’s Geneva jewelry auction.

The Winston Blue was easily the top lot of Wednesday’s auction, which realized more than $154.1 million, with 85 percent sold by lot and 94 percent by value. It achieved the highest total ever for a Jewelry sale in auction history, beating the Christie’s New York December 2013 Elizabeth Taylor jewelry sale, which totaled $137.2 million over a two-day period. The other top lots included:

* Belle Epoque diamond Devant-de-Corsage brooch, by Cartier that sold for more than $17.5 million. 

* A 75.97-carat pear-shaped D color, flawless diamond that sold for more than $14.4 million.

* A 76.51-carat cut-cornered square-cut light pink, VVS1 diamond necklace for $10 million, a world auction record for a light pink diamond. by Leviev $130,712 per carat. 

* The “Ocean Dream,” A 5.50-carat triangular-cut fancy vivid blue-green, SI1 diamond that sold for more than $8.6 million, a world auction record for a blue-green diamond.

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The Swatch Group Brands at Baselworld 2013 (including Harry Winston)

Harry Winston Opus XIII

The powerful presence of the Swatch Group was present like never before at Baselworld 2013, taking up a larger chunk of the renovated Hall 1.0, the most prestigious area at the show for the majority of its 19 watch brands, which span just about every segment of the watch industry.

In addition, the company, which also owns watch movement manufacturers and retail brands, hosted a separate museum-quality exhibition in Hall 2.0 for its Swatch timepieces; the brand that has been the most responsible for the company’s enormous success.

The newest brand under Swatch Group’s enormous umbrella, Harry Winston, still had its own space in Hall 1.1, as the $1 billion acquisition occurred in March, well too late  for Harry Winston to be folded into the other company holdings (perhaps next year).

Below are some of new releases from the seven brands in the group that I had the chance to visit during the eight-day tradeshow. I included Harry Winston as the company's new CEO, Nayla Hayek, was announced Friday.


Blancpain Carrousel, Minute Repeater and Chronograph
The Swiss luxury watch brand has created a fully mechanical watch that combines a one-minute flying carrousel (similar to a tourbillon) and a minute repeater with a flyback chronograph.

For the minute repeater, the blades of its cathedral gong wrap one and a half times around the movement to emit the sound. Its transmission is optimized by fixing the gongs inside the case, which increases volume and clarity. A flying governor reduces the background noise produced by the movement.

The pusher for the chronograph function with the flyback or instant-restart function (historically used by pilots) is located at 4 o’clock and enables the wearer to restart a time measurement while a first measurement is in progress.

The watch comes in a red gold 45 mm case with a chapter ring, a 30-minute and hour-markers in grand feu enamel. The open dial and sapphire crystal case-back provides in-depth views of this complex device.


Breguet Classique Chronométrie 7727
Available in rose or white gold, the watch is fitted with the new in-house caliber 574DR, which has a balance frequency of 10Hz.thus, improving the time-keeping performance of the balance and spring. It is fitted with a double balance-spring, pallet lever and escape wheel, all in specially prepared silicon. The result is a regulating power equivalent to around 830 microwatts. Despite its high frequency, it has a power reserve of 60 hours.

However, Breguet says the major innovation of this model is the use of magnetic pivots, which not only controls the negative effects of magnetism in a watch, but also uses the magnetic force to improve the pivoting, rotation and stability of the balance staff.

The dial shows an off-center chapter of hours and minutes, small seconds at 12 o'clock, a power-reserve indicator at 5 o'clock and a tenth-of-a-second indicator at 1 o'clock having a patented lightweight silicon hand with low inertia that doesn’t affect the balance. The pare-chute is visible at 2 o'clock, both as a reminder of A-L Breguet’s 1790 invention and to make the timepiece slimmer.

The dial is engine-turned in six patterns: “Geneva waves” in the center, a hobnail pattern for the small seconds, sunrays on the tenth-of-a-second dial and chevrons for the power-reserve indicator. The hours chapter is cross-hatched while a barleycorn pattern decorates the outer edge. The hands are in polished steel with the Breguet open tip, while the case displays delicate fluting.


Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer Regulator
This new timepiece unites the classic regulator display with an officially certified manual winding chronometer movement.

The dominant central position on the lacquered silver-grainé dial is the blue minute hand with its polished eye. On the central axis above and below the minute indicator are smaller hour and seconds displays.

The Glashütte Original panorama date display is placed at 3 o’clock. The date change takes place at midnight. From 6 in the morning until 6 in the evening, the small circle in the region of the hour display is white; from 6 pm until 6 am it is black. This timepiece is framed by a 42 mm polished case in red gold or a white gold version.

The watch is driven by the caliber 58-04, which permits the precise coordination of minute and seconds hands. A second-zero-stop-mechanism makes it is easy for the wearer to set the exact time. When winding the crown, the time display is stopped, the second hand jumps to zero and remains there. At the same time, the minute hand is also moved to the next full minute index. When one winds the crown to set the time, the minute hand always rests only on the full minute indices. This provides the correct relationship of the displayed seconds and minutes. A power reserve display at 9 o’clock indicates the energy remaining in the manual winding movement.

The watch is officially certified and bears a certificate from the German Calibration Service after a 15-day testing period.


Hamilton Jazzmaster Regulator
The H-12 movement in this watch allows the separation of the minute and hour hands on  different axials and sub-dials. The idea is to make the watch more accurate and provide an easier way for the person who owns the timepiece to read the time. However, I think most people wear such a watch is because of the appearance. Add to this the blue or silver dial and you have watch that can be worn for casual or formal occasions. There are three 42mm timepieces in the collection. In addition to the dial choice straps come in either leather or stainless steel.


Harry Winston Opus XIII (top photo)
It was difficult to determine which of the many technically advanced and aesthetically pleasing timepieces from this luxury brand to show. In the end I chose the newest addition to its iconic Opus collection. Opus is the watch that introduced Harry Winston to the world as more than just luxury jeweler. Each year the brand works with gifted independent watchmakers to build a timepiece with the goal of defying the conventional rules of watchmaking.

This year the newest member of the Swatch Group created a watch where the minutes accumulate around a track. Eleven rotating silver triangles spring from a faceted dome to show the hours. Every 12 hours, Harry Winston’s logo is appears on the dial and vanishes after sixty minutes. The 59 minute hands pivot on a ring of steel shafts that are held in place by 242 ruby bearings.

The mechanical watch is powered by the in-house HW4101 movement, which has 364 components. The case is made of 18k white gold.


Jaquet Droz Perpetual Calendar Eclipse
This newest version of the Eclispe line presents a new moon phase complication, which displays the cycles of the night of the sky on the dial, with the perpetual calendar complication. On the black or ivory-colored Grand Feu enamel dial, two straight hands contrast with the curves of two wavy hands, tipped with a crescent moon. The calendar information is easily read on several places on the dial: on the right is the date, on the left is the day of the week. At 12 o’clock, a single-hand counter indicates the month with the leap year appearing in a small window. At 6 o’clock, a black or ivory-colored onyx index moves across the face of a golden moon, revealing, and then concealing it until its total eclipse, unfolding on a night sky of eight golden stars, the watchmaker’s favorite number. The timepiece is powered by a Jaquet Droz 5853LR.4 self-winding mechanical movement, double barrel, perpetual calendar, retrograding moon phase, 22-carat white gold oscillating weight.


Longines Heritage Military 1938
Following Orb’s victory in the Kentucky Derby, Longines, the Official Watch and Timekeeper for the celebrated race, awarded the horse’s owner, trainer and jockey with watches from the brand’s Saint-Imier collection at the event’s Winners’ Circle Party. The Swiss watchmaking brand was the Official Watch and Timekeeper of Kentucky Derby 139 and Entitlement Partner of Longines Kentucky Oaks 139. Now the luxury watch brand is Paris where it is the Official Timekeep of Roland-Garros, home of the French Open.

Prior to both events, the brand was in Baselworld showing off its new watch collections. Among them was the Longines Heritage Military 1938, which uses the same aesthetics based on the design of a military watch produced by Longines in the 1930s. With a diameter of 42 mm and fitted with the automatic calibre L705, this timepiece displays the hours and minutes, a 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, the date at 6 o’clock and the small second at 9 o’clock. Large white Arabic numerals, coated with Super-LumiNova and a minute circle white as well contrasts with the deep matt black of the dial.

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