Grima Jewelry Auction at Bonhams

Emerald and diamond ring by Andrew Grima (est. $20,000 $30,000).

The first auction to focus on the work of legendary jewelry Andrew Grima, since his death in 2007, will be presented by Bonhams New York on October 19.

British Royal jewelry, designer and artisan, Grima was the foremost modern jewelry designer in the West End of London in the 1960s and 1970s with clients including Queen Elizabeth, Princess Margaret, Princess Anne, The Duke of Edinburgh, Barbara Hepworth and Jacqueline Onassis. Grima gained recognition following the 1961 Exhibition of International Jewelry where his pieces of highly textured materials and abstract shapes led to his appointment as a Crown Jeweler in 1970 commissioned to make items of jewelry for the British and Scandinavian royal families.

Consisting of 35 Grima designs, the collection comes from the New York estates of Marvin and Laura Speiser and was amassed over the course of two decades of close friendship between the Speisers and Andrew Grima and his wife Jojo, Bonhams said in a statement.

Highlighting the sale is a circa 1988 emerald and diamond ring (top image), centering a cut-cornered, square-cut 11.35 cts. emerald “pool” within a raised surround of round brilliant-cut diamonds, the ring is completed by a textured gold mount. It has an estimated auction value of $20,000-30,000.

A cultured pearl, gold and diamond necklace with cultured pearl drop (left), designed as textured gold abstract shaped gold beads mirrored by fresh water pearls and diamonds, has an estimated value of $12,000-15,000.

Also included in the auction will be a 'sunburst' brooch (below), similar to the one designed exclusively for Queen Elizabeth who presented the piece as a gift to Madame Pompidou in 1972 on her State Visit to France. One of only four created, this example is designed as rays of textured gold centering a forest green tourmaline and can be worn as a pendant as well as a brooch (est. $8,000-10,000).

The Fine Jewelry sale, also to be presented that day, will feature a sapphire and diamond pendant from Rio, Brazil (est. $100,000-150,000); a South Sea cultured pearl and diamond necklace by Van Cleef & Arpels (est. $70,000-90,000); an Art Deco diamond and sapphire bracelet by Ostertag (est. $30,000-50,000); and a collection of antique jewelry.

Previews will take place at Bonhams' London showrooms from September 19 to 21; the Los Angeles showrooms from October 1 to 3; the San Francisco showrooms from October 8 to 10; and the NewYork showrooms from October 16 to 18. The sale will be simulcast to the San Francisco and Los Angeles showrooms.

The Royal Jeweler Speaks

Above the entrance at Wartski is the Coats of Arms of Queen Elizabeth II, which serves as the symbol for the royal warrant of appointment, in this case serving as the royal jeweler. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

LONDON — Geoffrey Munn is one of Britain’s foremost authorities on antique jewelry with a particular emphasis on 19th-century precious metalwork and the House of Fabergé. He is best known in the U.K. as one of the experts on the BBC Antiques Roadshow. He has authored four books and curated several exhibitions.

Geoffrey Munn, managing director of Wartski, discusses the provenance Faberge items in the display case. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

Munn, 59, is an extremely engaging person and a master storyteller with a rapid-fire speaking style who can discuss with passion, empathy and a sprinkling of humor, the human stories (often tragic) behind finely crafted antique pieces. However, there is one subject he won’t discuss: His relationship with the royal family. You see, Munn is managing director of Wartski, an antique dealership with a “royal warrant of appointment.” In other words, he and the store serve as one of about 850 companies and individuals and one of a handful of jewelers that supply goods and services to the royal family.

“Mums the word,” he said from behind the counter at Wartski, where he has worked since he was 19.

A Fabergé collection of about 10 items made of Siberian jade, known for its dark green color with black markings. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

 

When it was time for Kate Middleton to have her wedding ring fashioned from the royal supply of Welsh gold, it was Wartski that did the job. The store also supplied the engagement and wedding rings to Queen Elizabeth’s grandson, Viscount Linley, when he married Serena Stanhope in 1993. It made the wedding rings (also of Welsh gold) for The Prince of Wales and Camilla Parker-Bowles for their 2005 wedding.

The store, located just off of the Bond Street luxury shopping boulevard, specializes in Fabergé and other objects of royalty. The façade is neat and somewhat modern for a place that deals with antiques. Dark slate surrounds large display windows with items neatly in place. Above the doorway is the Wartski name and the Coats of Arms of Queen Elizabeth II, which serves as the symbol for the royal warrant of appointment.

Among the items in the display case at Wartski is an antique jeweled humming bird brooch in mid flight with its wings, pave set with cushion shaped rubies and old brilliant cut diamonds. The beak and feet are made of yellow gold, its single eye mounted with a cabochon emerald. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

 

Despite containing the rare and expensive valuables of royalty—along with the triumphs, loves and tragedies of their former owners—the store is a picture of understatement. Jewelry and other antiques are neatly stored in a long glass display case that serves as a counter on one side of the room or along light-colored wooden wall displays.

Objects of Art neatly arranged in wall displays. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

 

In the store on this particular day, June 15, was a collection of about 10 Fabergé items made of Siberian jade, known for its deep green hue and black markings, in one wall display. In the glass case standing out among the pieces was an antique jeweled humming bird brooch in mid flight with out-swept wings, pavé set with cushion shaped rubies and old brilliant cut diamonds. The beak and feet are made of yellow gold, its single eye mounted with a cabochon emerald. Also standing out in the glass among several sparkling diamond pieces was a diamond set “Comet” brooch made of platinum, round brilliant cut diamonds and step cut diamonds.

Faberge Siberian aquamarine and diamond brooch was a gift from Tsar Nicholas II to princess Alix of Hesse. They were executed July 17,1918, and she was wearing the jewel right up until the time of her death. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

 

He showed our group several pieces of rare objects with special stories, including a brooch with a large translucent aquamarine stone surrounded by diamonds. Here’s how he tells the story behind the brooch.

In here we have a Fabergé brooch, a Siberian aquamarine surrounded by diamonds. That’s all we knew for a while. It’s an exemplary aquamarine and it’s of extraordinary color. (women in the group gasp with amazement). I know, I know it’s fabulous. (But) it’s only the beginning of the trouble. Because this really is going to wreck you and you’ll need a stiff drink afterwards. It’s an exemplary aquamarine and it’s a Siberian one and they don’t really come in that color unless they do come from Siberia.… The story of this is really quite awe inspiring because the color blue in the lore of lapidary stones stands for love and then there’s sort of the interlock of two lives with diamonds forever. And that’s all we knew for a very long time until my colleague sent off the number to Russia and back came the provenance and it said that it was bought by the Supreme Autocrat of all the Russias—a pretty hot title—and there’s a note beside it saying it was the engagement present from (Russian Tsar) Nicholas II to princess Alix of Hesse. And that is sort of stratospheric. But then what happens later is even more heartbreaking because when they were taken to prison in Siberia (during the Bolshevik Revolution), they went to a place called The House of Special Purpose—a very menacing title—and you know what happens next but this (the jewel) was with her just before she was taken to the basement and riddled with gunfire. It was confiscated and it isn’t actually open to debate because it was a civil service theft and so they made an inventory of what they’ve taken from her and they photographed it on the table so you don’t hear any fanciful stories. I think possibly that’s as far as jewelry will ever take you.

Munn, who has spent most of his life at Wartski, is in the process of writing a history of the store with insider stories of the many of celebrities and royalties who have passed through its doors. With his knack for storytelling, it should be an interesting read.

Diamond Tiara from Maureen Swanson Could Fetch $235,000

Diamond tiara from the late Countess of Dudley, also known as the actress and dancer Maureen Swanson.

With the ongoing celebration of Queen Elizabeth’s Diamond Jubilee, it seems fitting that Christie’s London sale of Important Jewels on June 13 would focus on royal and aristocratic jewels.

A total of 368 lots include jewels from the collections of Princess Soraya Esfandiary Bakhtiary, Beatrice Countess of Granard OBE, and the late Countess of Dudley. Spanning four centuries, the sale has rare historic rings, diamonds and pearls. The roll call of signed jewels by the leading houses and designers includes: Boucheron, Cartier, Chaumet, Chopard, Graff and Van Cleef & Arpels.

One of the top pieces of the sale is an Art Deco diamond tiara by Cartier (pictured above) from the collection of the late Countess of Dudley, also known as the actress and dancer Maureen Swanson, with an estimate of £100,000 – £150,000 ($156,850 – $235,270). It is one of 17 jewels offered from the collection up for sale. The tiara is “composed of five graduated shield shaped clip brooches, each resembling the Pylon, the tapering monumental towers of ancient Egypt whose bold form inspired so much 1930s design,” Christie’s said. “Together, mounted atop the simple diamond line frame, these clips are transformed into a modern soaring geometric skyline, their design recalling both the architectural innovations of the era together with its inimitable style.”

The sale also will be led by the Cowdray Pearls, a rare natural pearl necklace, composed of a single row of thirty-eight graduated natural grey pearls, with an estimated price of £280,000 – £350,000 ($440,000 – $549,000). It is from the collection of the late Viscountess Cowdray, Lady Pearson (1860-1932).

Leading the small group of jewels formerly from the collection of Princess Soraya Esfandiary Bakhtiary is a 12.15 carat diamond circular single-stone ring (estimate: £70,000 – £100,000; $110,000 – $156,850). Another ring with notable provenance is an Edwardian sapphire and diamond ring, circa 1905, which was formerly in the collection of Beatrice Countess of Granard OBE (estimate: £30,000 – £40,000; $47,000 – $63,000).

A selection of 40 lots from Cartier, including jewels, cufflinks, watches and clocks, is a highlight of the auction. This portion of the sale is led by an Art Deco diamond and gem bracelet of Oriental inspiration, circa 1925 (estimate: £100,000 – £150,000; $156,850 – $235,270), and a pair of platinum and diamond ear pendants, composed of a graduated line of three brilliant-cut diamonds, suspending a pear-shaped diamond drop (estimate: £100,000 – £150,000; $156,850 – $235,270).

For information on all the lots offered in the sale, view the online catalog.

Queen Elizabeth to celebrate Diamond Jubilee with Diamond Exhibition

The miniature crown worn by Queen Victoria for her official diamond jubilee portrait in 1897.

For those of you still brimming with joy from the pomp and majesty of the royal wedding there will be another royal celebration next year.

In February 2012, Queen Elizabeth II will become only the second sovereign in British history to have reigned for 60 years. To mark the occasion, Buckingham Palace will host an exhibit of the many ways in which diamonds have been used and worn by British monarchs over the past two centuries. The exhibition includes an unprecedented display of a number of the queen’s personal jewels—either inherited or acquired during her reign.

The exhibition titled, “Diamonds: A Jubilee Celebration,” presented by The Royal Collection, will coincide with the 2012 summer opening of Buckingham Palace. It will be held in August and September of 2012. Final dates have yet to be confirmed. It is one of several exhibitions celebrating the queen’s diamond jubilee.

Queen Victoria is the only other British monarch to celebrate a diamond jubilee. The exhibition will include the coronation necklace and earrings created for Victoria and subsequently worn by Queen Alexandra, Queen Mary, Queen Elizabeth, The Queen Mother, and the current queen at their coronations. The necklace is formed of 25 graduated cushion-shaped brilliant-cut diamonds and a central drop-shaped pendant of 22.48 cts.

Other items to be displayed include:

Queen Victoria’s fringe brooch, which was designed to be worn along the top of the fashionably low-cut bodices of the period. It consists of a large emerald-cut brilliant diamonds surrounded by twelve large brilliants, from which are suspended nine diamond chains. It was made in October 1856 by R & S Garrard, who remodeled an existing piece of jewelry and added the stones that had been presented to the Queen by the Sultan of Turkey, Abdul Mejid I, in May that year. It was left to King Edward VII and often worn by his consort, Queen Alexandra. The Queen Mother wore the brooch for the coronation in 1953.

The miniature crown worn by Queen Victoria for her official diamond jubilee portrait in 1897 (top picture), by R & S Garrard in 1870. It was designed to be worn over a veil, which the queen adopted following the death of Prince Albert. The crown’s 1,187 diamonds give it a grandeur that belies its tiny proportions (3.54 inches by 3.94 inches). Probably because of its physical lightness, Queen Victoria favored this crown over any other throughout the last 30 years of her life.

The “Girls of Great Britain Tiara,” a wedding present to Princess Victoria Mary of Teck (later Queen Mary) on behalf of the “Girls of Great Britain and Ireland.” The tiara was presented to the queen as a wedding present and is still frequently worn her.

The exhibition also includes a number of historic objects to show the skill and ingenuity with which diamonds have been used in different cultures and traditions. They include the 18th century bloodstone snuff box made for King Frederick the Great of Prussia. The box incorporates nearly 3,000 diamonds arranged pictorially to represent flowers, insects and musical instruments.

For tickets and visitor information, go to www.royalcollection.org.uk or call +44 (0)20 7766 7300.

Princess Catherine’s Bridal Jewelry

Photo by Ben Stansall/Getty Images

Upon her marriage this morning to Prince William, the former Catherine Middleton now has the title of Her Royal Highness The Duchess of Cambridge.

The new Princess’ veil was held in place by a Cartier “halo” tiara, which was lent by The Queen. The tiara was made by Cartier in 1936 and was purchased by The Duke of York (later King George VI) for his Duchess (later Queen Elizabeth The Queen Mother) three weeks before he succeeded his brother as King. The tiara was presented to Princess Elizabeth (now The Queen) by her mother on her 18th birthday.

The bride’s earrings, designed and made by London boutique jeweler Robinson Pelham, are diamond-set stylized oak leaves with a pear shaped diamond set drop and a pavé set diamond acorn suspended in the center. Inspiration for the design comes from the Middleton family's new coat of arms, which includes acorns and oak leaves. The earrings were made to match the tiara. The earrings were a personal gift to the bride from her parents for her Wedding Day.

Robinson Pelham also designed and made a pair of diamond earrings for Philippa Middleton, Catherine’s sister. These earrings are more floral in nature to compliment her headpiece during the service.

A tourmaline and diamond pendant and matching earrings were designed and made for Catherine’s mother, Carole Middleton. Two gold stick pins, one with a single gold acorn at the head and the other with an oak leaf, are also worn by the father of the bride, Michael Middleton, and the Bride's brother, James Middleton.

The wedding ring for princess Middleton was designed and made by Wartski, a family owned firm of antique dealers. The ring was fashioned from a piece of Welsh gold that was given to Prince William by The Queen shortly after the engagement was announced.

There will be only one ring, in accordance with the Couple’s wishes.

Wartski is a family jewelry business founded in 1865. Its first establishment was in Bangor and later the business moved to the seaside resort of Llandudno.

Wartski has a history with the Royal Family. It supplied the engagement and wedding rings to Queen Elizabeth’s grandson Viscount Linley when he married The Hon. Serena Stanhope in 1993. They also made the wedding rings (also of Welsh gold) for The Prince of Wales and Mrs. Camilla Parker-Bowles for their wedding in 2005.

Wartski is long-established grantees of the warrants of The Queen and The Prince of Wales.

Photos of the Royal jewelry to come when available.

Queen Elizabeth Displays her Diamond Jubilee Jewelry

Britain's Royal Family released an official Diamond Jubilee portrait of Queen Elizabeth adorned with jewelry from The Royal Collection in honor of her 60th anniversary as Britain’s Monarch.

The Queen is wearing the State Diadem (crown), a circlet of diamonds, created in 1820. She wears this during the procession to and from the State Opening of Parliament, and she wore it on her Coronation Day, for the procession to Westminster Abbey.

The Queen is also wearing Queen Victoria’s Collet Necklace which has been worn by five generations of Royal Ladies (Queen Victoria, Queen Alexandra, Queen Mary, Queen Elizabeth (the Queen Mother) and the present Queen). Queen Victoria (The Queen’s great-great grandmother) wore this necklace for her own official Diamond Jubilee photograph, issued in 1897.

On the blue Garter Riband (or sash) The Queen is wearing the Royal Family Orders of her grandfather, King George V, and father, King George VI.

Her dress is made of white silk, satin and lace with silver colored sequins. The dress has a flowing scalloped edge, and was created in Buckingham Palace by Miss Angela Kelly. In the background is the Queen Victoria Memorial.

The portrait was taken by John Swannell in the Centre Room in Buckingham Palace in December 2011. It is one of two commissioned Diamond Jubilee photographs of The Queen and The Duke of Edinburgh that were released Sunday.

“This is the third time I’ve had the pleasure of photographing Her Majesty, and I always find these events very exciting,” Swannell said. “The Queen and Prince Philip, I thought, were patient and very relaxed on the day, which I hope is reflected in the photographs.”

Queen Elizabeth II ascended the throne of Great Britain on Feb. 6, 1952, upon the death of her father King George VI. She is only the second monarch to celebrate diamond jubilee of her reign.