Lauren Bacall Auction to Include Jewelry by Schlumberger, Elizabeth Gage, Tiffany, Chanel and Cartier

Lauren Bacall wearing two 18k yellow gold ropework bracelets
 on the same wrist, designed by Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. Photo credit: NBC/NBC via Getty Images

Lauren Bacall is known for her beauty, her distinctive voice, her high-profile marriage to actor Humphrey Bogart and her impeccable taste. She was less known for her jewelry collection.

Two 18k yellow gold ropework bracelets by Jean Schlumberger with pre-sale estimates of $5,000 - $7,000 and $6,000 - $9,000. The actress was frequently pictured wearing the bracelets together (see top photo), layered on the same wrist. 

However, more than 30 items of the late actress’s jewelry will be part of the extensive 700-lot auction of the “Lauren Bacall Collection,” being offered by Bonhams New York on March 31 and April 1. It will include pieces by Chanel, Cartier, Tiffany, as well as her personal favorite, French jewelry designer Jean Schlumberger (1907-1987).

“Her jewelry was unique in that it reflected her personal taste and the fact she was very sentimental,” Susan Abeles, Bonhams’ head of Jewelry in the United States, said in a recent interview. “The pieces offered are timeless, understated and classic in design and represent the sophistication and glamour of a true Hollywood legend.”

Lauren Bacall wears Elizabeth Gage Camel Brooch while attending the Juvenile Diabetes Foundation Promise Ball Benefit Gala on
November 10, 1990, at Waldorf Astoria Hotel in New York. Photo credit: Ron Galella, Ltd.

Abeles, who has been spending a great deal of time researching the life of Lauren Bacall to prepare for the auction, said the actress “didn’t have a tremendous amount of jewelry.” But the collection of rings, bracelets, brooches and earrings had personal significance.

The Elizabeth Gage Mogul-inspired Camel Brooch is made of 18k yellow gold enamel, cultured pearl, and rose diamond. It has a pre-sale estimate of $5,000 - $7,000.

For example, Abeles showed me a Tiffany & Co. gold necklace with dangling gold hearts. Each heart has a letter that spells out the phrase, “To my own beautiful star from my proud director Ron.” Abeles said that she believes the necklace was a gift from Ron Field, who directed Bacall in the Broadway play, “Applause.” Both Bacall and Field won Tony awards for their parts in the play.

Tiffany & Co. 18k yellow gold necklace necklace, each dangling heart has a letter that spells out the phrase, “To my own beautiful star from my proud director Ron.” It is believed that the necklace was a gift from Ron Field, who directed Bacall in the Broadway play, “Applause.” Both won Tony awards. It is shown with a gold pocket watch.

Although it isn’t documented Abeles is certain that Bacall and Schlumberger were friends. Bacall purchased many of her most prized Schlumberger pieces in Paris, where the designer lived and worked.

“I do like that she had a relationship with the designer,” Abeles said. “She had a great thirst for knowledge.”

A sampling of the Schlumberger pieces that are up for auction at Bonhams.

Standout Schlumberger pieces from the collection (all pictured above) include an 18k yellow gold and blue enamel bangle bracelet (estimate $20,000 - $30,000); an 18k yellow gold, diamond, amethyst and turquoise ring designed by Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co., (estimate $8,000 - $12,000); and a pair of amethyst, sapphire and emerald ear clips, mounted by Schlumberger (estimate $6,700 - $8,500).

Perhaps Bacall's most icon jewelry pieces are two 18k yellow gold ropework bracelets, (estimate $5,000 - $7,000 and $6,000 - $9,000). The actress was frequently pictured wearing the bracelets together, layered on the same wrist (top two photos).

Bacall also had personal relationships with other jewelers. One auction highlight is a Mogul-inspired, 18k yellow gold, enamel, cultured pearl, and rose diamond camel brooch by the British jeweler, Elizabeth Gage, (estimate $5,000 - $7,000). The brooch is accompanied by the original drawing and correspondence from the jeweler, which reveals collaboration and friendship between the two.

“Bacall’s style was unmistakably her own,” Abeles said. “Her jewelry collection represents a woman who knew her own style—one who wore the jewelry rather than the jewelry wearing her. Pieces that might have overshadowed another woman perfectly complemented her beauty.”

Another highlights of the sale is a pair of diamond and grey South Sea cultured pearl ear pendants by Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co (estimate $4,600 - $6,700). 

Lauren Bacall

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High Jewelry Collection Represents 400 Years Of Family Ownership

This complex, open-work necklace from the Medici collection required what the jewelers described as "new articulation systems" to ensure its beauty and comfort.

The Parisian high jewelry house, Mellerio dits Meller, has spent 2013 celebrating a landmark for longevity that is rarely, if ever, achievable. The luxury jeweler, whose client list over the centuries includes nearly all of European royalty, has been operating under the ownership of the same family for 400 years.

A gold corsage tops this brooch where emeralds and pearls move freely.

It is considered to be the oldest jeweler in the world and the oldest family-owned company in Europe. It has the original books and paperwork to back up those claims in its rich archives, which are kept in its 9 Rue de la Paix boutique and workshop.

The Medici diamond tiara.

The firm, now owned and operated by the 14th generation of the same family, specializes in hand-made jewelry, almost all of it created on premise. The company was founded by the Mellerio family in 1613 in the rural region of northern Italy that borders Switzerland. It was created because of an act of royalty. Specifically, Marie de’ Medici, Queen of France, granted special privileges to the Mellerio family by royal decree, which allowed the family firm to trade throughout much of Europe.

The same diamond tiara shows its versatility by converting into a necklace.

The family began trading in Versailles in 1777, where it attracted the patronage of its most famous client, Marie Antoinette. In 1796, the firm moved to Rue Vivienne, Versailles, retaining the patronage of the Empress Josephine. The firm then moved to Paris eventually settling at 9 Rue de la Paix.

Medici Lush emerald ring

The company opened a second shop in Madrid in 1850 to service the Spanish royal family, including Queen Isabella II. It has a long close relationship with the Dutch Royal Court. It also operates in Luxembourg and Japan.

Medici Lush eight-flower ring

To celebrate its milestone the company created a high jewelry collection named after its founding patron, Marie de’ Medici, which represents the grand history of the royal jeweler.

To create the Medici collection, the family looked into its past using its archives. They also invited well-known jewelry designer, Edéenne, a Canadian native who now works in Paris. She created modern interpretations of jewelry inspired by the old drawings.

The result is a collection of pieces inspired by nature that are sensual, complex and at the same time easy to wear. There are openwork pieces and items made with “grey” gold. There are pieces that are rough in texture, recreating an antique feel. And of course there’s a tiara. In this case one that converts into a necklace, which harkens back to 19th Century jewelry usage.

The company also released a book, in French, chronicling its history, Mellerio dits Meller: Joaillier des Reines, by Vincent Meylan, published by Éditions Télémaque.

I will be writing more about this remarkable company in the coming year.

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John Hardy Opens its First Boutique

After more than 19 years in business, John Hardy, the Bali-based silver jewelry designer and manufacturer, is making its move into retail. In partnership with the Masari Group, the company will open a 237-square-foot store in the Plaza Indonesia shopping mall in Jakarta, Indonesia.

Influenced by the natural beauty and spirit of Bali, the boutique is designed to mirror the experience of the John Hardy workshop with the curves of its rice terraces, bamboo groves and water-smoothed river stones. Guy Bedarida, John Hardy creative director and head designer, created a pair of hand-carved door handles, made of sterling silver and Indonesian black palm wood, the dragon handle on the store’s interior grasps a silver ring, paved in black sapphires. The dragon’s eyes are set with Moon Quartz—all fitting materials given that Naga is a revered mythological creature symbolizing prosperity and good luck throughout Asia.

Inside the store, visitors will find a hand-carved bamboo panel floor depicting a Naga curling around Mount Agung, the highest and holiest mountain in Bali. Its scales are hand-hammered sterling silver, enhanced with black volcanic sand and its tail is crafted from crushed terracotta. Fifteen floor-to-ceiling bamboo columns cradle silver-framed jewelry cases where John Hardy product is displayed.

In celebration of the boutique’s opening, Bedarida created a sterling silver and 18k yellow gold Macan pendant set with blue and white sapphires, and a Naga cuff in sterling silver and 18k yellow gold with diamond pave and cabochon rubies. The flagship will carry the full John Hardy collection, along with select pieces from the limited-edition Cinta collection.

Boucheron Signs Perfume Deal with Parfums SA

Inter Parfums SA has signed a 15-year exclusive worldwide license agreement with Parisian luxury jeweler Boucheron to create, produce and distribute perfumes and ancillary products under the Boucheron brand. The agreement begins Jan. 1, 2011, and replaces a previous license with L’Oreal that was terminated by mutual consent.

Under the license agreement, Inter Parfums, also based in Paris, will work with Boucheron to capitalize on the brand’s ultra-luxury positioning in high-end jewelry. The transfer of inventory will take place early in 2011 and the development of a new fragrance is planned for 2012. Plans call for Interparfums Luxury Brands, a recently formed United States subsidiary of Inter Parfums SA, to handle distribution of the brand in the U.S.

“This is an exciting opportunity for Boucheron and Inter Parfums as we seek a new strategic direction for our fragrances and build on the Boucheron's unique position in the jewelry world,” said Jean-Christophe Bédos, Boucheron president and CEO of Boucheron.

Inter Parfums SA is 74-percent owned by New York-based Inter Parfums, Inc., which develops, manufactures and distributes prestige perfumes and cosmetics.

Shawish Opens Dreamy London Boutique

The staggered chandelier serves as central design element

Swiss high jeweler Shawish Genève continues to expand into new markets and ventures. Recently, it opened its first London boutique in the affluent central London neighborhood of Chelsea. 

The dream-like space matches its enchanted jewelry inspired by magical forests, fairytale legends and exploratory voyages.

The fish scale motif for the entrance

The facade of the space employs a motif in the likeness of colorful fish scales backed by black marble that reflect light in the same way that fish scales do in the sunlight. Inside, walls of neutral off-white shades and gray carpeting are offset by touches of purple, the Shawish corporate color. The centerpiece is a chandelier of luminescent glass tubes hanging in staggered columns a bit like stalactite formations in a cave. 

The display for the one-of-a-kind Octopus bracelet

Ten display cases contain the one-of-a-kind and limited edition pieces in staged fantasy settings. For example, the Octopus bracelet sits on a pillow resembling an underwater throne surrounded by five columns. Two Teddy Bear pendants, which depict bejeweled teddy bears resting on crescent moons, are displayed in a night setting, with one on the corner of a starlit sky looking down on its partner resting on a cloud. 

The nighttime display for the Teddy Bear bracelet

Shawish’s Moonlight Necklace, with its twisted branches of white gold paved in white diamond, commands center stage in front of a portrait of an orange moon. Flanking the necklace are matching earrings and ring. In another display, jewels are encased in a frosty winter scene with mounds of snow below and stalactite formations above. Bejeweled Magic Mushroom pendants are suspended on the showroom floor near the entrance. 

The display for the Moonlight suite of jewelry

This is the company’s second boutique, the other being at its headquarters in Geneva. Mohamed Shawesh, co-founder, said the boutique was designed to reflect the cosmopolitan and quirky nature of London and its people. 

A winter scene for a jewelry display

“We are here for the wonderful weird people, the English flavor, and to stir up the international glamour factors of the city,” he said. “Most of all we’re here to celebrate high jewelry with a heartbeat.”

Magic Mushrooms hang about at the entrance of the boutique

The company is reportedly opening a third boutique in Dubai. So the expansion continues. 

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Last Chance To Give A Special Holiday Jewelry Gift With These Items From De Beers and Alexandra Mor

De Beers Phenomena Glacier seven-row diamond bracelet

I’ve already written jewelry and watch gift guides for procrastinators. This is for you super procrastinators as we enter the final weekend before Christmas. I'm here to let you know there is still hope. These jewelry pieces from De Beers and designer Alexandra Mor would certainly make a loved one happy and keep you in good graces for 2014. 

De Beers Diamond Jewellers, the retail partnership between the mining giant and the luxury conglomerate LVMH, has ventured into the high jewelry category in a big way with its Phenomena collection.

The diamond and white gold jewelry collection is made up of five lines (“Crest,” “Frost,” “Glacier,” “Reef” and “Stream”) that provide differing artistic interpretations of water in its natural state. Each line consists of a full set of jewelry. These are one-of-kind pieces and in fact when I viewed the collection when it first arrived in mid-November one of the items was missing because it was sold. I was told a few others were under discussion.

The company describes the collection as a modern take on traditional jewelry. These are mostly large, complex and well-crafted pieces with extremely high-carat value made with combinations of exceptionally cut diamonds. Yet these pieces are sleek, streamlined and sophisticated highlighted by sensual curves throughout. The white on white palette adds to its modernity. Despite the size and weight of many of the pieces, they are easy to wear because of articulations in the metal that hug the skin.

The collection is available at the De Beers New York boutique until January 1.

Alexandra Mor cushion-cut lilac tanzanite and diamond ring

Jewelry designer Alexandra Mor has made quite a name for herself in a short time with her “demi-couture” brand of jewelry, which consists of limited editions, one-of-kind and custom-made pieces from her New York workshop. A couple of her signature characteristics include the use of large colored gemstones, “floating” diamond melee and knife-edge wire trim for her well crafted pieces.

Mor was one of a handful of international jewelry designers chosen to create a piece of jewelry for a bespoke jewelry collection curated by Gemfields (an emerald and amethyst mining and marketing company). The collection was unveiled in March. Two months earlier, she received the Fashion Group International Rising Star Award in the fine jewelry category.

For the holidays Mor has available a one-of-a-kind ring centered with a 25.78 carat cushion-cut lilac tanzanite surrounded with 3.67 carats of step-cut baguette diamonds, set with 0.90 carat 1mm “floating” diamond melee and knife-edged wire. The gems are platinum set on 18k yellow gold with Alexandra Mor logo gallery and signed by her.

Mor has assured me that the piece is available and can be shipped anywhere in the world before the holidays end. Contact the company directly at 888-944-2237; 212-921- 4391; or at contact@alexandramor.com

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Martin Katz Celebrates New York With Jewelry Collection and Hotel Suite

Pear-shaped rose-cut cognac diamonds of 6.43 carats surrounded by a mirco-set border of cognac and white diamonds; topped with two kite diamonds of 4.03 carats, four round brilliant diamonds of 0.95 carats and anchored by 10 channel set baguettes.

Los Angeles-based luxury jeweler designer Martin Katz has done something that may seem a bit outside his toolbox by designing a 5,000-square-foot luxury suite at the renovated Towers at The New York Palace hotel. To mark the opening of the space, he also released a colorful and architecturally driven New York-themed jewelry collection.

The first floor salon of the Martin Katz Jewel Suite, one of two signature suites as part of the $140 million renovation of The New York Palace hotel in Midtown Manhattan.

“There’s nothing like it in New York,” he said of the Midtown Manhattan hotel suite.

Known as the “Martin Katz Jewel Suite,” it includes a two-story, 20-foot “Waterfall of Diamonds” chandelier, along a grand stairway, a 10-seat dining room, an indoor-outdoor entertainment space with a wood burning fireplace and outside whirlpool. The living room on the 53rd floor has 15-foot windows with a view of both the Chrysler Building and the Empire State Building.

A 13.18-carat oval Mexican fire opal serves as a center stone of this ring extended by flames of green tsavorite garnets and orange-red sapphires.

Nearly everything in the Art-Deco themed space was designed or specified by Katz (in collaboration with interior design and architectural firm, BBG-BBGM) and represents his 25-year history as a jewelry designer. Original artworks (photographs, paintings and other works) throughout the space represent some of his iconic jewelry lines. For example, his circle pendant necklace motif was used as a dome on a light fixture and a glass etching in a circular window. A rotating collection of his jewelry, many loaned by clients, are displayed gallery style in the foyer. Lavender runs throughout the space in the fabrics and wall treatments.

The terrace has a rare view of both the Empire State Building and the Chrysler Building and has a hot tub (not shown). 

As Katz showed me around the suite I asked him how difficult it was to branch out into interior design. “It was easy,” he said. “Just like designing my home.”

The price of the suite matches the sky-high view at $25,000 per night. However, there are some unusual extras, such as a Martin Katz microband ring and, if desired, a free consultation with the jeweler. There’s also an “Ultimate Proposal” package starting at $50,000 a night that includes a private consultation with Katz for the creation of a custom-designed engagement ring and/or wedding bands, and a private dining experience for two.

Vintage tassel style earrings with two cushion rose cut diamonds weighing 7.39cts, two round diamonds weighing 1.15cts, 40 baguette diamonds and microset with 62 diamonds.  Set in 18K white gold.

To coincide with the suite being opened to the public, Katz has released a new line of jewelry using architectural shapes and Art Deco themes based on the New York skyline.

Katz is known for his high-quality diamond jewelry, pioneering micro pavé settings, and for his stackable “Microbrand” rings. However, during the past few years he has been using a variety of colored gems and this collection shows this.

The grand stairway with the 20-foot-high “Waterfall of Diamonds” chandelier and gallery style showcases that contain a rotating collection of Martin Katz jewelry.

The details of the work, such as the fine micro pavé settings and the unusual-shaped gems are among the signatures of Katz’s jewelry.

“I approach things for true design and without concern for the difficulty and cost of making it. I become really picky with the stones I choose and even pickier with how to mount them,” he says. “What I come up with is something that reflects a deep passion and vision. I’m not completely sure what I’m looking for but I know it when I get there.”

Triangle shaped black opal and diamond pave' drop earrings set in blackened 18K white gold; two pear shape stained glass opals weighing 4.31cts and microset with 172 diamonds. 

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A 17.56-carat pale blue Burmese sapphire is accented with two trapezoid diamonds and microset with white diamonds and blue sapphires. 

Damiani Basks in the Glow of its Movie Star Power

Tilda Swinton wearing Damiani Chignon earrings in "Io sono l’amore."

Tilda Swinton and Sophia Loren provide the star power for Italian jewelry house Damiani for two separate events in different parts of the world. 

Damiani Chignon ring

First, in Los Angeles the Hollywood Foreign Press Association announced its nominees Tuesday for the 68th Annual Golden Globe Awards. The Italian film, Io sono l’amore (I am Love), directed by Luca Guadadigno, was nominated for Best Foreign Language Film in 2010. Damiani played an important role in the stylish film by adorning the star of the movie, Tilda Swinton, in jewels throughout the entire production.

Swinton portrays the patriarch of one Milan’s upper class bourgeois dynasties. Her depiction is rendered all the more credible by the addition of Damiani’s jewels from the house’s Masterpieces collections, among which are the ring and earrings from the Chignon collection. (Left, Swinton and Silvia Damiani on the set of  "I am Love")  

This is not the first time the actress and Damiani shared the spotlight with the luxury jewelry house. In 2008, when Swinton was presented with the Academy Award for Best Supporting Actress, she donned herself with Damiani jewels. It continues to be a winning combination.

Giorgio Damiani and Sophia Loren arrive at the Damiani boutique in the Thuraya Mall in Kuwait

Meanwhile, in November, Sophia Loren was the undisputed star during a tour of the Middle East promoting the Sophia Loren Collection. Loren, along with Giorgio Damiani, Damiani Group VP, and the local Damiani partners, visited Kuwait, Qatar and Dubai to meet local VIPs, personalities and customers at the Damiani Boutiques.

Sophia Loren jewelry by Damiani earrings

Events were held at Damiani boutiques in the Dubai Mall in Dubai (with the former captain of the Italian Football National Team, Fabio Cannavaro); the Thuraya Mall in Kuwait; and the Blue Salon in Qatar, with H.R.H. Sheikh Hassan Bin Mohamed Bin Ali Al Thani.

Loren first introduced in the jewelry collection in March during the Oscar awards in Los Angeles.

Luxury Jewelry Holiday Gifts For Procrastinators

Best-known as Angelina Jolie’s jewelry design partner, Robert Procop has created a colorful interpretation of Paris’ most famous monument, the Eiffel Tower. The diamond and gem expert, and luxury jeweler created a ring made of white gold and amethyst topped with a 50.83-carat aquamarine. The Eiffel Tower ring is available at, Robert Procop private locations in Beverly Hills, Geneva and Hong Kong.

There’s only eight shopping days left before Christmas and you still have no idea what to give your loved one. It’s difficult to go wrong with luxury jewelry as a gift for the holidays. However, choosing that will make your loved one swoon is difficult because tastes in fine baubles are personal and there are endless choices available for every need.

This one-of-kind fringe necklace by Graff has 69.40-carats of diamonds and 108.10-carats of rubies. The price is available upon request at Graff Diamonds boutiques.

The 10 pieces of jewelry I provide include one-of-a-kind high jewelry creations, pieces that can be worn throughout the day and fine designer pieces. They include items made of diamonds, colored gems and pearls. There’s even a colored-enhanced diamond ring.

Emerald and diamond earrings from gem and jewelry company, Omi Privé, are handcrafted with 13.06 total carats of pear-shaped emeralds accented with 1.05 carats of brilliant diamond rounds set in platinum. The suggested retail price is $225,000. Visit www.omiprive.com to find a retailer.

Prices range from “If you have to ask” to more affordable pieces. When available I listed the price and where the item can be purchased. Hopefully these gifts ideas can help you procrastinators buy something appropriate before it’s too late. I provided the price and availability for most of the pieces.

The Exclusive Collection Double Strand Tahitian Pearl Necklace by Mastoloni is made of Tahitian Pearls (12-14mm) secured with a diamond encrusted clasp set with 18k white gold. It has a suggested retail price of $42,500. To find a retailer, visit www.mastoloni.com.

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The Ruby Divine Ring by Martin Katz features a 2.56-carat natural cushion shape ruby microset with 336 round diamonds and 26 round rubies set in 18k white gold. Price is available upon request at the Martin Katz Beverly Hills boutique.

Amethyst and diamond earrings by jewelry designer and manufacturer, Miiori, are centered with two amethysts stones (8.19-carats) and 5.73cts of white diamonds set in 18k white gold. It retails for $17,275.

Venetian Rose Windows Earrings by Italian jewelry designer, Bizzotto, are made of 18k white and rose gold, diamonds and pink sapphires. Suggested retail price is $8,740.

The Petales Entrelaces Petits Pétales bracelet from Montblanc’s Princess Grace collection is a delicate and discreet pink gold piece of jewelry that can be throughout the day and for any occasion. It is available at Montblanc boutiques throughout the world.

The Etoile de Vie Ring by Mauboussin features a pair of 18k white gold stars, one topped with white mother of pearl alongside a second covered in pavé diamonds. It retails for $2,100 and is available at the Mauboussin boutique on Madison Avenue, New York.

Natural pink diamonds are among the most sought after in the world. Fiamma Jewelry has developed a proprietary technology to create color-enhanced pink diamonds. The Beverly ring is centered with a 1.3-carat cushion-cut diamond surrounded by 82 round brilliant pink and white diamonds mounted in 14k white and pink gold. It retails for $6,799. To find retailers visit fiammajewelry.com.

Customers Virtually ‘Try On’ Tacori Jewelry at Bloomingdales

There was fun and excitement on the third floor of the Bloomingdales flagship store in New York City this past weekend where customers had a chance to “virtually” try on jewelry from the Tacori 18k925 Collection.

In front of a video screen mounted with a webcam, customers were able to wrap a paper cutout of a piece of jewelry, such as ring, select which jewelry item from the new Tacori collection they would like to see by touching the screen and then holding the cutout to the webcam. On the screen the ring, or other jewelry, would appear as if they are actually trying it on.

The “Try It On” experience, known as augmented reality, was provided by Holition, a U.K.-based technology company that specializes in 3D and augmented reality solutions. The use of this type of technology isn’t brand new, but it has been very active during the past year. Earlier this year, Holition launched a Tissot 3D interactive touch screen window display experience at Selfridges department store in London.

“Shoppers today are busy, and sometimes don’t have the time or inclination to wait at a jewelry counter for a sales person to help them try on the below the counter items they desire,” said Paul Tacorian, SVP of sales and marketing, TACORI. “Our virtual ‘Try It On’ experience allows clients the fun and instant gratification of trying on beautiful gems, and customizing their style to quickly find what Tacori 18k925 design they like best.”

You can virtually try on the new Tacori 18k925 on a personal computer if you have a webcam by following this link.