.

.
marylin monroe
Showing posts with label Tiffany and Co. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Tiffany and Co. Show all posts

Former Tiffany Exec Sentenced To A year In Prison For Stealing $2M From Employer

Ingrid Lederhaas-Okun
In terms of news, it hasn't been a good holiday for Tiffany & Co. Over the weekend the luxury jeweler learned it lost its dispute with Swatch Group. Now, the latest high-profile mishap was the sentencing Monday of a former employee for the theft of 2.1 million in jewelry from the company’s Fifth Avenue headquarters building. 

Of course it's a much more difficult holiday for Ingrid Lederhaas-Okun, a former VP of design & product development at Tiffany & Co., who was sentence to a year and a day in prison in Manhattan federal court by U.S. District Judge Paul G. Gardephe. 

Lederhaas-Okun, 47, of Darien, Conn., pled guilty in July for the theft, which occurred over a four-month period. In addition to the prison term, she was sentenced to one year of supervised release, ordered to forfeit more than $2.1 million pay and more than $2.2 million in restitution.

Under her duties and responsibilities at Tiffany, Lederhaas-Okun had the authority to check out jewelry belonging to Tiffany for work-related reasons. Between November 2012 and February 2013, she admitted to checking out more than 165 pieces of jewelry with a retail value of more than $1.2 million, including diamond bracelets, platinum or gold diamond drop and hoop earrings, platinum diamond rings, and platinum and diamond pendants. She then sold some if not all of this jewelry for $1.3 million to another company in Manhattan, who the US Attorney’s office and the court haven’t named. It’s also unclear whether the company knew it was purchasing stolen jewelry. 

To conceal her theft, she repeatedly made false statements to Tiffany, according to court documents. For example, after her termination in February 2013, she told company representatives that she had only recently checked out the missing jewelry in anticipation of creating a PowerPoint presentation. However, the missing jewelry had been checked out months earlier, her supervisor was unaware of any such presentation being worked on by her and there was no presentation on her computer. In addition, she claimed the stolen jewelry could be found in a white envelope in her office, but a search of her office shortly after her departure did not yield any such envelope.

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes website.

A ‘Shocked’ and ‘Disappointed’ Tiffany & Co. Ordered to Pay $450 Million to Swatch Group


A long, simmering dispute between two powerhouses in the luxury jewelry and watch world appears to have come to an end when a Dutch arbitration panel ordered Tiffany & Co. to pay 402 million Swiss francs ($450 million) to Swatch Group for breach of contract. In addition, a counter-claim by Tiffany & Co. was dismissed by the panel.

The dispute, which has been ongoing since 2011, was argued before the Netherlands Arbitration Institute, which provides a confidential way of resolving such disagreements. The result of the arbitration in Swatch’s favor was announced in a very brief statement by the watch company Sunday followed by a much longer statement filed with the Securities & Exchange Commission Monday morning by Tiffany. 

Tiffany cut its forecast for the year based on the ruling and it says it will continue to seek legal remedies.

“We were shocked and extremely disappointed with the decision of the majority of the arbitral panel,” said Michael J. Kowalski, Tiffany chairman and CEO, in the SEC statement. “We firmly believe the panel’s ruling is not supported by the facts of this case or the various agreements between the Swatch parties and the Tiffany parties. While we are reviewing our options with our legal counsel, I want to assure you that we do have sufficient financial resources to pay the full amount. We will record a charge for the after-tax impact of the award, which we estimate to be approximately $295 - 305 million, in the fourth quarter.”

In 2007, the two companies announced that they signed an agreement to produce and market watches under the Tiffany & Co. brand name. In September 2011, Swatch Group had terminated the collaboration for what it termed as a breach of contract and pressed claims for damages in December 2011 against Tiffany. In March 2012, Tiffany filed a counterclaim with the court of arbitration in charge.

The original agreement between the two parties was that Swatch Group—which produces, markets and sells watches under approximately 20 brands from the popular low-cost Swatch watch to the prestige and luxury brand, Breguet—was to design and produce watches under the Tiffany brand name. Those watches were to be sold through Tiffany stores around the world. Tiffany apparently didn’t think the watches created by Swatch fit their brand image. Swatch charged that Tiffany did little to market and sell those watches.

Tiffany noted in its statement that one of the three members of the arbitration panel issued a dissenting opinion and that the amount awarded reflects approximately 8.8 percent of the damages claimed by Swatch.

Tiffany, according to its statement, was also ordered to pay two-thirds of the cost of arbitration (approximately $800,000) and two-thirds of the cost of legal fees ($8.8 million).

 “We do not believe that the award will impact our ability to realize our existing business plans in the short or long term, and we are extremely pleased to be moving forward with our plans to design, produce, market and distribute our own Tiffany & Co. brand watches,” Kowalski said.

Kowalski said the payments will be made from cash on hand and funds available under its existing debt facilities. The company said that the charges associated with the award will reduce earnings per diluted share for the fiscal year ended January 31, 2014, to $2.30 - $2.35 from the guidance of $3.65 - $3.75, issued a month earlier.

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes website.

Tiffany Q3 Sales Up 27%


As the holiday shopping season begins Tiffany & Co. appears poised to take full advantage. 

The luxury jewelry retailer said Wednesday that worldwide net sales for the third quarter increased 14 percent to $681.7 million, with growth in all geographic regions. On a constant-exchange-rate basis, which excludes the effect of translating foreign-currency-denominated sales into U.S. dollars, worldwide net and comparable store sales increased 12 percent and 7 percent, respectively. 

The sales increase and a higher operating margin contributed to a higher-than-expected 27 percent increase in net earnings for the period, ended October 31, the company said. Net earnings from continuing operations adjusted to exclude nonrecurring items increased 43 percent.

"As third quarter results demonstrate once again, Tiffany's expanding, globally diversified store presence provides a significant platform to generate sustainable sales and earnings growth," said Michael J. Kowalski, Tiffany chairman and CEO.

Sales in the Americas region, which includes the U.S., Canada and Latin/South America, increased 9 percent to $331.8 million in the third quarter. On a constant-exchange-rate basis, sales increased 9 percent and comparable store sales increased 5 percent. Sales at Tiffany’s flagship store in New York declined by 3 percent for the period. Branch store sales in the Americas increased 8 percent. Internet and catalog sales in the Americas increased 7 percent fir the quarter. 

Sales in Japan rose 12 percent to $130.8 million in the third quarter.  On a constant-exchange-rate basis, sales increased 2 percent. Comparable retail store sales declined 2 percent for the quarter. 

Sales in Asia-Pacific increased 24 percent to $127.1 million in the third quarter. On a constant-exchange-rate basis, sales increased 20 percent in the quarter, due to strong growth in most countries, the company said. Comparable store sales rose 11 percent.

Sales in Europe increased 22 percent to $77.5 million in the third quarter and 29 percent on a constant-exchange-rate basis. Sales increased 29 percent in the quarter, with double-digit percentage growth in the U.K. and most of continental Europe, the company said.

Other sales increased 26 percent to $14.6 million in the third quarter due to increased wholesale sales of finished goods to independent distributors within emerging markets; wholesale sales of rough diamonds increased in the year-to-date. 

"We are quite pleased with the performance of new stores and recent product introductions including the yellow diamond and leather goods collections," Kowalski said, adding that the company is increasing its full-year outlook.

For the full year, ending January 31, 2011, worldwide sales are projected to increase by 12 percent, the company said. By region, sales for the year are expected to increase approximately 10 percent in the Americas, by a mid-twenties percentage in Asia-Pacific, by a low-single-digit percentage in Japan and by a high-teens percentage in Europe, the company said. Other sales are expected to decline modestly.

Diamond Empowerment Fund to Honor Tiffany & Co. and Leo Schachter


Global luxury jeweler Tiffany & Co. and Leo Schachter Diamonds will be honored for global leadership in helping empower people in Africa, at the second annual GOOD Awards on January 10, 2013.

The GOOD Awards, established by the Diamond Empowerment Fund in 2012, are the highest awards to recognize individuals and corporations in the diamond and jewelry industry for outstanding leadership in the areas of good corporate citizenship, sustainability, and promoting opportunity in Africa.

Tiffany & Co. has been in the forefront of promoting business practices and programs that benefit communities in which diamonds are sourced. Tiffany’s work in Botswana and other diamond producing countries highlights one of the many ways the company demonstrates accountability through best business practices resulting in employment, infrastructure improvements, and ultimately the empowerment of people in that region.

Leo Schachter Diamonds was one of the first diamond companies to establish a cutting factory in Botswana, employing hundreds of locals. In addition, Elliot Tannenbaum, principal of Leo Schachter Diamonds, in partnership with the government of Botswana, helped to establish the Botswana Top Achievers Program, a DEF beneficiary, that funds top students from the nation to study at the university of their choice worldwide.

Additional honorees will be announced soon. For more information on tickets, journal ads and sponsorship packages please visit www.goodawards.org.


Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes Web site.

Tiffany Looks to China for Growth

Tiffany & Co. Shanghai Store.  Photo: Cal Otero

Luxury retailer jeweler Tiffany & Co. said it will open more stores in China than anywhere else in the world over the next three years.

“China will rapidly become the place where we will have the greatest number of new stores. Within the next three years, the number will stand between 25 and 30,” Michael J. Kowalski, chairman of Tiffany & Co, told China Daily.

The New York-based company plans to open four stores in China during the current fiscal year, which ends January 2011 and will invest more heavily in the country’s second and third tier cities, Kowalski reportedly said.

Expansion in China is being driven by robust sales growth in the market, Kowalski said. In the second quarter of 2010, Tiffany witnessed its fastest growth in China, with a 27 percent increase, year-over-year. He expects sales in the Asia-Pacific region, led by China, to increase by more than 20 percent. He said China will surpass the United States as the largest jewelry market in the world over the next five to 10 years.

The jeweler currently has 12 retail stores and boutiques in China, including three in Beijing, four in Shanghai and one in Chengdu. Its store at the China World Shopping Mall in Beijing opens this month, with another in Kunming opening in December.

To attract as many customers as possible in its fastest-growing market, Tiffany unveiled its 2011 jewels and diamonds collections in Beijing on October 22—the first time the brand has unveiled a major new collection outside the U.S.

“We aim to let Chinese customers become more familiar with the connotation and history of our brand through this activity, which brings Tiffany closer to its Chinese buyers,” Kowalski reportedly said.

In contrast to other luxury brands, whose stores are operated by their Chinese distributors, all of Tiffany's boutiques in China are owned directly by the company, and that will continue to be the case, Kowalski reportedly told the newspaper. Currently, 97 percent of Tiffany stores around the world are operated directly by the company.

Tiffany’s 2010-2011 Blue Book Collection


Tiffany & Co. has released the 2010-2011 Blue Book Collection, the jeweler’s annual presentation of the world’s most spectacular diamond and gemstone jewelry.

This year’s collection includes the Tiffany Majestic necklace (pictured), which contains more than 300 pear-shaped and round brilliant stones. It took over 700 hours to create the necklace. Each stone was hand cut and set in diamond florets that surround a 30.31-ct., E color, internally flawless detachable diamond drop. The platinum mountings were individually crafted and discreetly linked to create a flexible setting that sparkles as it moves.

Another item featured in the catalog is the Fringe necklace, which has a 20.01-ct., D color, internally flawless diamond in a rectangular modified brilliant cut with 61 round, 33 cushion and 30 marquise diamonds in platinum. In addition, there’s a diamond ring collection that includes internally flawless diamonds of 14.42 cts. and 12 cts. in gem-encrusted settings.

The Blue Book Collection also includes a necklace based on Art Deco jewels in the Tiffany & Co. Archives. The design features a triple-drop pendant with three rare fancy vivid yellow diamonds. The rectangular-shaped 13.09-ct. yellow diamond and two 6-ct. yellow diamonds, surrounded by 642 round brilliant white diamonds.

Tiffany highlights a 28.01-carat unenhanced, esteemed Kashmir sapphire in a necklace of 1,097 round brilliant diamonds. The Blue Book also includes color-rich sapphires, vibrant tourmalines and rubellites surrounded by diamonds in rings and drop earrings. The book showcases tanzanite, introduced by Tiffany & Co. in 1969, with two matched pear-shaped tanzanites in drop earrings of striking beauty.

Tiffany jewelers in New York and Paris went to the original drawings of world-renowned designer Jean Schlumberger to create the Leaves necklace of hand set turquoise beads with diamonds, 18k gold and platinum; and the Bird on a Rock clip.

Other creations include diamond and platinum chandelier earrings and diamond bracelets based on the Art Deco period of the early 20th century; and the flexible geometric patterns of the Zigzag diamond bracelet with over 1,300 round diamonds and a five-row bracelet of 260 round and square-shaped diamonds.

24-Ct. Graff Diamond Ring Could Fetch $3.5 Million at Auction

Graff diamond ring. Photo credit: Denis Hayoun - Diode SA

Superb jewels, top-quality colorless diamonds, rare gemstones, natural pearls, and signed jewels from Bulgari, Cartier, Boivin, Graff, JAR, Tiffany & Co, Van Cleef & Arpels and Harry Winston will be part of Christie’s Geneva Magnificent Jewels auction on November 16.

Several private collections also will be part of the auction at the Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues, including the collection of Richard Burton’s former wife, Susan Hunt Burton, and a private collection featured in a separate catalog: “Timeless Elegance - Important Jewels from the Collection of a European Family.” (Follow link to read more about this collection).

The top piece among the 360 lots for sale is a 24.30-ct. oval cut diamond ring by Graff. The D color, internally flawless gem is estimated to fetch $2.9 million to $3.5 million (top picture).

The auction of haute joaillerie is expected to fetch more than $50 million.

Diamond “en tremblant” flower brooch, by Bulgari, 1960s. Estimate $110,000 - $220,000. Photo credit: Denis Hayoun - Diode SA

Bulgari will command its own section of more than 40 lots in the upcoming sale. It amounts to the largest sale of Bulgari jewels since a Christie’s Geneva auction in 1993. Among the highlights is an emerald, ruby and diamond sautoir suspending a hexagonal-shaped emerald of 44.90 carats, dated from the 1970s and estimated at $270,000 – $360,000. Also for sale will be a diamond and yellow gold necklace estimated at $73,000 – $89,000.

Diamond and yellow gold necklace by Bulgari. Estimate $70,000 - $90,000. Photo credit: Denis Hayoun - Diode SA

Among the colored gemstones and diamonds to be offered are an 8.11-carat, oval-cut Burmese ruby estimated at $2 million – $2.5 million, a pair of Colombian pear-shaped emerald and diamond earrings, weighing 23.66 and 23.55 carats, estimated at $1.8 million – $2.5 million, and a 55.98-carat Kashmir cabochon sapphire mounted with diamonds as ring by Mouawad, estimated at $800,000 – $1.2 million. A 30.15-carat, D color, VS1 clarity, Type IIa pear-shaped diamond with an antique cut is estimated to sell at $1.9 million to $2.3 million.

Pair of detachable 7.60 & 7.57cts pear-shaped diamond and diamond ear pendants by Van Cleef & Arpels has an auction estimate of $1.5 million - $2 million. Photo credit: Denis Hayoun - Diode SA

Richard Burton, the Welsh actor of stage and screen, was at the height of his fame when he married Susan Hunt, an international model, in August 1976. Among the jewels from the Susan Burton collection are 6.17 carats oval-cut diamond ring (estimate: $56,000 – $78,000), an emerald and diamond necklace by Van Cleef & Arpels (Estimate: $45,000 – $67,000) and a two row cultured pearl, pink tourmaline and diamond necklace with cultured pearl, sapphire and ruby ear pendants (Estimate: SFr. $40,000 – $63,000).

Emerald, ruby and diamond sautoir suspending an hexagonal-shaped 44.90-ct. emerald by Bulgari has an auction estimate of $260,000 - $360,000. Photo credit: Denis Hayoun - Diode SA

From the “Property of a Royal House, Christie’s November sale will present three fancy yellow diamonds: a 79-carat cushion-shaped diamond ring weighing estimated $1.5 million – $2 million, a 67.54-carat, brilliant-cut diamond brooch estimated $1.4 million – $1.5 million and a 32.62-carat brilliant-cut diamond ring with an estimate of $700,000 – $800,000.

From what is billed as the “Estate of a Gentleman,” a selection of 19 jewels created by the famous Swiss jeweler Meister mainly in the 1960s and 1970s. Among the highlights are a diamond fringe necklace estimated at $230,000 – $330,000) and a gold, diamond ruby and emerald snake bracelet estimated at $14,000 – $17,000).

Mystery-Set sapphire and diamond leaf brooch by Van Cleef & Arpels, circa 1930s, has an auction estimate of $300,000 - $500,000. Photo credit: Denis Hayoun - Diode SA
A group of Period and Art Deco jewels featured in the sale is highlighted by a diamond necklace created by René Boivin, circa 1960, (estimate: $340,000 – $440,000) and an emerald and diamond bracelet mounted in platinum, 1930s, estimated at $400,000 – $600,000.

Jewelry and Watch Brands Digital Media Efforts get Failing Grades

Brands held by public companies have a sigificant advantage online, arguably as a result of the emphasis placed on innovation, L2 says. Public comapnies not affilated with a larger organization demonstrated the biggest Digital IQ gains.

The world has largely turned to digital mediums for their consumer information, to purchase products and to share their thoughts about these products and brands with others. Most industries have learned how to harness the power of the Internet, social media and wireless mediums to build their brand image and increase sales. But according to one study, the luxury jewelry and watch industries are lagging far behind nearly all others in using these digital platforms to gain a presence in an area where consumers continue to turn.


Nearly two-third of the jewelry and watch brands surveyed were classified as “Challenged” or “Feeble,” based on the findings of the Digital IQ Index: Watches & Jewelry. Only two brands, Tiffany & Co. and Swarovski, achieved “Genius” and “Gifted” classifications, (respectively).

“Gray market concerns, counterfeit fears, limited pricing transparency, and retailer conflict all present obstacles for organizations in this category to build and sell their brands online,” the survey by L2, a membership-based consultancy that bills itself as a “think tank for digital innovation.” “However, with 67 percent of consumers in the EU and half of those in the U.S. indicating that they research luxury goods online before making a purchase, do watches and jewelry brands really have a choice?”

The top ten brands in the study are:

1. Tiffany & Co.

2. Swarovski

3. Jaeger-LeCoultre

4. David Yurman

5. Cartier

6. Omega

7. TAG Heuer

8. Longines

9. Montblanc (tied)

9. Pandora (tied)

  
Other key findings in the study of 35 jewelry and watch brands:

* Just 29 percent of brands in the Index boast e-commerce capabilities. In a category where third-party distribution is not going away anytime soon, the missed opportunity online to drive customers to offline retail is even more disappointing.

* All but three brands in the Index maintain a presence on Facebook, with communities averaging more than 200,000 fans. Mobile site adoption is up from just seven percent in 2010 to 39 percent this year. In addition, brands are beginning to abandon flash-heavy sites that are difficult to navigate in favor of more streamlined experiences that are more searchable, shareable and product-centric.

* With a YouTube channel launch and updates to its iPad, Cartier is one of this year’s biggest winners; however, the brand still only notches an Average IQ classification. The biggest disappointment is industry heavyweight Rolex, which has fallen from Gifted in 2009 to Feeble this year. Iconic brands are falling behind.

* Less than half of brands included in the study are purchasing their own brand keywords, and thus fail to appear in the top-three paid ads of their search pages. Instead, e-tailers, flash-sale sites, and discounters are seizing this valuable search engine real estate. Google is another “door to the store.” By not addressing paid ads, brands are essentially displaying discounted merchandise in the windows of their largest retail locations.

“The Watches & Jewelry industry is running out of time online,” says Scott Galloway, L2 founder. “Although these brands are beginning to invest in social media and mobile, transaction-orientation and digital marketing competence such as search, email, and retargeting lag other industries.”

For the survey, L2 used a four-tier ranking methodology: Website functionality, content and brand translation accounts for 35 percent; digital marketing, 25 percent; social media, 25 percent; and mobile, 15 percent.

Great Gatsby Film to Feature Tiffany Jewels

Tiffany & Co. said it will create all the jewelry for Baz Luhrmann's The Great Gatsby, based on F. Scott Fitzgerald's 1925 literary classic, which is appropriate since the luxury jeweler played a significant role during the era.

Working with Luhrmann and costume and production designer Catherine Martin, the New York-based jeweler said it created a collection of platinum-set diamonds and lustrous pearls that complement the period clothes that will help give the actors a true sense of the high life as celebrated by their characters.

Tiffany jewels was a significant part of the symbolism and unbridled optimism that swept the country during the era that the book and movie describe, the New York-based company said. It was the chosen adornments for the period’s light, shimmering gowns.

“This collaboration is a natural for us,” said Jon King, executive vice president of Tiffany & Co. “Our archives contain spectacular jewels from the 1920s that are the basis of the one-of-a-kind designs we have created for this iconic American story.”

Fitzgerald was a regular Tiffany customer and Louis Comfort Tiffany, the brand's first design director, mixed in the actual Long Island circles described in the novel.

“The Tiffany & Co Archives have proven to be an invaluable resource in looking back at this Golden Era of affluence and fine jewelry,” Martin said.

In addition to the jewelry, the interior of Jay Gatsby's home in the film will contain china, sterling silver flatware and other accessories by Tiffany & Co.

The Warner Bros. Pictures and Bazmark film is expected to be released in December, 2012. Filming began in September.

Photo caption: Carey Mulligan at the Annual Critics’ Choice Awards in Los Angeles on Jan. 15, 2010. She will play Daisy Buchanan in the upcoming film.

Judge Rejects Tiffany’s False Advertising Claim Against eBay


For the second time in two years, luxury jewelry retailer Tiffany & Co. failed to persuade a federal court that eBay deceived its customers when they bought counterfeit Tiffany jewelry from the online auction site.

U.S. District Judge Richard Sullivan in New York dismissed Tiffany’s final claim of false-advertising, saying “there is no extrinsic evidence indicating that the challenged advertisements were misleading or confusing,” Bloomberg News reports.



The same judge in 2008 rejected Tiffany’s trademark infringement and false-advertising claims. An appeals court in April upheld most of the judge’s ruling while reinstating a single false-advertising claim. Tiffany first brought on the lawsuit in 2004.

“We are pleased with today’s ruling, which settles the last remaining claim before the trial court in this case,” Michelle Fang, eBay’s associate general counsel, reportedly said in a statement.

The case has been viewed as a benchmark challenge in the United States to Internet-based companies such as eBay, Google Inc and others that may claim merely to be hosting services, and not responsible for users' trademark violations.

Tiffany accused eBay of advertising the sale of its goods through ads on its Web site, and through sponsored links on search engines, which would sometimes link to its own website and exhort readers to "Find Tiffany items at low prices," Reuters reports.

Sullivan agreed with Tiffany that eBay knew "a portion" of the goods being sold were fake. But he said Tiffany failed to show that eBay's advertisements actually misled customers or necessarily implied that all Tiffany products sold on its Web site were genuine, Reuters reports. Sullivan also pointed to eBay efforts to combat fraud, which the company has said costs up to $20 million a year.

Tiffany 2Q Worldwide Sales Up 9%


While much of the jewelry and luxury industries are struggling to come to grips with the unsettled economic environment, Tiffany & Co. continues to experience significance growth.

The luxury jewelry retailer said Friday that its worldwide net sales rose 9 percent to $668.8 million in the second quarter, year-over-year, with solid growth in most regions. On a constant-exchange-rate basis, which excludes the effect of translating foreign-currency-denominated sales into U.S. dollars, worldwide net sales rose 8 percent and same store sales (a strong indication of growth or weakness among stores) rose 5 percent.

Net earnings from continuing operations rose 19 percent to $67.7 million for the period ended July 31, which the company said is due to higher operating margins. Net earnings from continuing operations adjusted to exclude nonrecurring items rose 45 percent. As a result, the company modestly increased its full year earnings growth outlook.

“Tiffany's financial performance in the quarter continued to demonstrate the benefits derived from a growing global presence, with roughly half of our sales now occurring outside the U.S.,” Michael J. Kowalski, Tiffany chairman and CEO, said in a statement. “In the quarter, we were pleased that sales increased in most countries and product categories.”

Despite the overall growth in sales, Mark Aaron, Tiffany vice president-Investor Relations, said in a conference call Friday that sales were hurt due to “softer than expected” growth of 8 percent to 350.4 million in the Americas, which consists of the U.S., Canada and Latin/South America. However, Aaron described sales growth in Asia-Pacific region as “generally solid” and offset the weaker growth areas, which also includes Japan, which he said was “probably not surprising.”

In the Americas, sales increased 8 percent to $350.4 million in the second quarter, “which was lighter than we expected, especially due to softness earlier in the quarter,” Aaron said. “The 8 percent increase entirely resulted from an increase in the average transaction size.” He added that the company reported “healthy growth” in most transactions price points, particularly at the highest end. However, transactions under $500 declined.

On a constant-exchange-rate basis, sales rose 7 percent and same store sales increased 5 percent for the quarter. Sales in the New York flagship store rose 8 percent (due primarily to increased tourism) while Americas' branch store sales increased 4 percent. Internet and catalog sales in the Americas fell 2 percent for the period. Aaron noted, “continued and pronounced softness” in the company’s Southwest U.S. region, which includes of Southern California, Arizona and Las Vegas.

Sales in the company’s Asia-Pacific region (excluding Japan) recorded a 21 percent increase in sales to $111.5 million. On a constant-exchange-rate basis, sales rose 17 percent for the period, with the largest percentage growth in China, Hong Kong, Macau and Korea. Same-store rose 7 percent. During the quarter, the company opened a store in the new Marina Bay Sands Resort in Singapore (its fourth in Singapore) and a store in the IFC Mall in Shanghai (its 12th in China).

In Japan, sales rose 4 percent to $118 million in the second quarter. On a constant-exchange-rate basis, sales declined 2 percent and same store sales fell 7 percent.

Europe was another strong performer for Tiffany, as sales increased 14 percent to $76.9 million in the second quarter. On a constant-exchange-rate basis, sales rose 25 percent, with similarly strong growth in the U.K. and continental Europe. Same store sales rose 21 percent for the period.

Other sales declined 19 percent to $11.9 million in the second quarter primarily due to lower wholesale sales of rough diamonds, the company said. 

“Worldwide sales grew in all major categories in the second quarter,” Aaron said. “Sales of engagement rings grew strongly in the Americas, the Asia-Pacific and Europe largely due to solid growth in units as well as higher average price. There was modest growth in statement jewelry sales over $50,000 and a continued strong performance in celebration rings and other popular jewelry collections, such as Victoria, Metro and Heart. The Keys collection remains strong at higher price points. There was a healthy demand for gold and platinum jewelry in contrast to silver jewelry sales, which were virtually equal to the prior year. The designer jewelry category had a good increase. And we pleased to see watch sales up more than 30 percent in the quarte,r reflecting strong interest in our new Tiffany brand design.

In addition, the company plans to release new products including a collection of yellow diamonds that were first launched in Japan and Australia and which will be available in all areas. Next week, the company plans to launch a much talked about collection of leather handbags and accessories in select U.S. stores and online.

In its 2010 outlook, Tiffany said it expects a worldwide sales increase of approximately 11 percent. By region, sales are expected to increase approximately 10 percent in the Americas, mid-twenties percentage in Asia-Pacific, to decline by a low-single-digit percentage in Japan and to increase by a mid-teens percentage in Europe. Other sales are expected to increase modestly from the prior year.

The company plans to open of 14 new stores in 2010 (five in the Americas, seven in Asia-Pacific and two in Europe).

“We look toward the second half of the year with a sense of guarded optimism, continuing to grow our worldwide store base and launching a range of exciting new products, including an extraordinary collection of jewelry with yellow diamonds and an enticing new collection of handbags and leather accessories, among many others,” Kowalski said. “So far in this third quarter, consolidated worldwide sales are growing at a low-double-digit percentage rate over last year, with varying results by region.”

The company increased its annual net earnings outlook to $2.60 - $2.65 per diluted share (from $2.55 - $2.60 previously.

Tiffany & Co. operates 223 TIFFANY & CO. stores and boutiques (91 in the Americas, 57 in Japan, 48 in Asia-Pacific and 27 in Europe), versus 211 locations a year ago (88 in the Americas, 57 in Japan, 42 in Asia-Pacific and 24 in Europe).

Tiffany Q2 Earnings Up 16%, Global Sales Up 4%


Exceptional growth in China along with improvements in operating margins led to a better-than-expected 16 percent net earnings increase to $107 million, or $0.83 per diluted share, in the second quarter for Tiffany & Co.

Worldwide net sales for the New York-based luxury jeweler rose 4 percent to $926 million. On a constant-exchange-rate basis, worldwide net sales rose 8 percent, and comparable store sales rose 5 percent due to sales growth in most regions.

As a result, the company raised its year-end outlook to $3.50-$3.60 per diluted share, from $3.43-$3.53 per diluted share in its first quarter outlook. It also plans to continue its worldwide expansion of stores unabated.

In addition to regional growth, product categories also performed well, according to Tiffany’s second-quarter earnings report released Tuesday. The results were dampened a bit by lower-than-expected sales growth in the US and the drastic decline of the Japanese Yen.

Mark L. Aaron, Tiffany VP-Investor Relations, said in a conference call Tuesday that growth in fine jewelry and statement jewelry were extremely strong and outperformed modest growth in fashion jewelry. He added that diamond jewelry, led by colored diamonds, did well particularly well for the period.

Gross margin (gross profit as a percentage of net sales) increased to 57.5 percent in the second quarter from 56.3 percent a year ago. Aaron said this was the result of diminishing product cost pressure and price increases taken earlier in the year. This help lead to a “better-than-expected” improvement in operating margin.

“We were pleased with the results of our efforts to improve gross margin which, combined with well-controlled expenses, yielded a solid increase in operating margin,” added Michael J. Kowalski, Tiffany chairman and CEO.

Sales by region are as follows:

* In the Americas, total sales increased 2 percent to $444 million in the second quarter. Comparable store sales were unchanged in the quarter, led by growth in Tiffany’s New York flagship store sales. Aaron noted that sales in the US were lower than expected and were mixed throughout the country with no discernible pattern.

* Total sales in the Asia-Pacific region rose 20 percent to $208 million in the second quarter. On a constant-exchange-rate basis, total sales also rose 20 percent and comparable store sales increased 13 percent, “led by especially strong sales growth in Greater China,” the company said in its report.

* Aaron focused a great deal of time on Japan where the company operates 54 stores. The negative translation effect from a substantially weaker yen caused total sales to decline 14 percent to $136 million in the second quarter. However, he noted that on a constant-exchange-rate basis, total sales increased 7 percent in the second quarter, due to comparable store sales growth of 8 percent with strong growth in engagement and higher-end jewelry categories.

* Total sales in Europe rose 11 percent to $111 million in the second quarter. On a constant-exchange-rate basis, total sales rose 10 percent and comparable store sales rose 7 percent due to sales growth in the United Kingdom and most of continental Europe.

* Sales classified as “Other” sales increased 33 percent to $26 million in the second quarter, primarily reflecting the conversion in July 2012 of five Tiffany & Co. stores in the United Arab Emirates from independently-operated to company-operated. The company said it expected to increase its presence in the Middle East.

Tiffany opened three stores in the second quarter, including its ninth in Hong Kong store. Other openings were in, in Verona, Italy and in Villahermosa, Mexico. The company closed a store in Tokyo, due to the mall the store was in closing for long-term renovations, Aaron said.

The company in the second quarter operated 277 stores (116 in the Americas, 67 in Asia-Pacific, 54 in Japan, 35 in Europe and five in the U.A.E.), versus 260 stores (106 in the Americas, 61 in Asia-Pacific, 55 in Japan and 33 in Europe and five in the U.A.E.) a year ago.


Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes Web site.

Tiffany Still Riding High, Reports Strong Growth in all Regions, Raises Earnings Forecast


Tiffany & Co. said Friday that worldwide net sales in the second quarter increased 30 percent year-over-year to $872.7 million due to strong growth in all geographic regions. Excluding the effect of translating foreign-currency-denominated sales into U.S. dollars, worldwide net sales increased 24 percent and comparable store sales rose 22 percent.

The luxury retail jeweler said net earnings increased 33 percent for the period ended July 31 to $90 million and, excluding nonrecurring charges, rose 58 percent in the quarter. Management increased its earnings forecast for fiscal 2011 to reflect the better-than-expected second quarter results.

“We are extremely pleased by these results which confirm the growing global appeal of Tiffany's product offerings,” said Michael J. Kowalski, Tiffany chairman and CEO. “In addition, we have been able to absorb precious metal and gemstone cost increases while improving our gross and operating margins.”

Net sales by region:

* In the Americas, second quarter sales rose 25 percent to $438.2 million, Tiffany said. On a constant-exchange-rate basis, total sales rose 24 percent and same store sales increased 23 percent. Sales in the New York flagship store increased 41 percent in the second quarter due to strong foreign tourist demand. Same store sales in the Americas increased 19 percent and Internet and catalog sales in the Americas increased 16 percent.

* In Asia-Pacific, second quarter sales increased 55 percent to $173.2 million in the second quarter. On a constant-exchange-rate basis, sales increased 45 percent same store sales increased 41 percent, due to growth in most countries with the largest increase in the greater China region.

* In Japan, second quarter sales rose 21 percent to $142.5 million. On a constant-exchange-rate basis, total sales increased 8 percent due to same store sales growth of 8 percent.

* In Europe, sales increased 32 percent to $101.3 million in the second quarter. On a constant-exchange-rate basis, sales increased 17 percent and same store sales rose 11 percent, reflecting growth in most countries.

* Other sales rose 46 percent to $17.4 million in the second quarter, due to increased wholesale sales of finished products to independent distributors within emerging markets, partly offset in the first half by a decline in wholesale sales of rough diamonds.

Other financial highlights in the second quarter:

* Gross margin (gross profit as a percentage of net sales) was 59 percent, compared with 57.8 percent for the same period of the prior year. The increases were due to sales leverage on fixed costs.

* SG&A (selling, general and administrative) expenses rose 37 percent in the second quarter, which included nonrecurring costs of $34 million in the second quarter, versus $4 million in both of the prior-year periods, related to the relocation of Tiffany's New York headquarters staff to 200 Fifth Avenue. Excluding the nonrecurring costs, SG&A expenses rose 26 percent for the period, reflecting higher store occupancy, staffing, marketing and sales-related variable costs.

* The effective income tax rate was 31.2 percent in the quarter versus 34 percent for the same period last year, with the decline primarily due to a reversal of a valuation allowance against certain deferred tax assets.

* At July 31, 2011, cash and cash equivalents and short-term investments totaled $565.2 million versus $614.7 million last year. Total short-term and long-term debt represented 29% of stockholders' equity compared with 40% a year ago.

* Net inventories at July 31 were 18 percent above the prior year. The increase was planned to support sales growth, store openings, product introductions and expanded assortments, and higher product and raw material acquisition costs. Almost one-fourth of the increase resulted from the effect of translating stronger foreign currencies into U.S. dollars.

* Tiffany said it repurchased approximately 330,000 shares of its common stock in the second quarter at a total cost of $24.5 million, or an average cost of $74.29 per share. In the first half, it spent $52.5 million to repurchase approximately 783,000 shares at an average cost of $67.00 per share. At July 31, approximately $340 million remained available for future repurchases under the currently authorized plan, which expires January 2013.

In its outlook, Tiffany said it is increasing its full year earnings forecast to $3.65 - $3.75 per diluted share (not including nonrecurring expenses) from the previous forecast of $3.45 - $3.55 per diluted share due to the better-than-expected second quarter results.

“Despite continuing economic uncertainty, our strong first half performance gives us ample reason to remain confident about our prospects for the balance of the year,” Kowalski said. “We are encouraged that total worldwide sales growth in the third quarter-to-date is continuing to exceed our expectations due to noteworthy strength in the Americas, Asia-Pacific and Japan, demonstrating, once again, the attraction of the Tiffany & Co. brand.”

Tiffany operates 236 stores (98 in the Americas, 55 in Japan, 52 in Asia-Pacific and 31 in Europe), versus 223 a year ago (91 in the Americas, 57 in Japan, 48 in Asia-Pacific and 27 in Europe).

Jewelry and Watch Brands Score Low on their Digital IQ




E-tailers and department stores lead the rankings and Jewelry & Watches and Accessory brands lag behind in their digital IQ.  Image source: Digital IQ Index: Specialty Retail, L2

E-tailers have the highest digital IQ, department stores saw the largest gain in their digital IQ during the past year and the digital IQ of home furnishings brands fell from the prior year. However, it is jewelry and watch brands who rate below every category with the exception of accessories.

The good news is that with a score of 68 the jewelry and watch category “vastly improved (over 2010 results) as brands began making investments in social media,” according to L2, a digital think tank, which published the ranking of 64 companies in eight specialty categories.

For its second annual survey titled, Digital IQ Index: Specialty Retail, L2 based its ranking on the following criteria:

* Website functionality, content and brand translation, 30 percent;

* Digital marketing, 30 percent;

* Social media 20 percent; and

* Mobile, 20 percent

This year’s rankings placed a stronger emphasis on the explosion of mobile purchasing (m-commerce) and the exceptional growth of facebook as both a social media marketing tool and as a newly minted e-commerce platform, known as f-commerce.

Based on the criteria, a scoring methodology was created and rankings for the brands were based on the following categories.

Genius, 140 and above;

* Gifted, 110 - 139;

* Average, 90 - 109;

* Challenged, 70 -89;

* Feeble, 70 and below

The only jewelry and watch brand that made the Gifted” category was Tiffany, which ranked 19th overall with a score of 118. “A jewel of a mobile app and smart digital cross promotion,” the survey noted.

Even e-commerce diamond jewelry standout, Blue Nile, took a hit in the survey, ranking 38th overall, which places it in the “Average” category with a score of 98. “Dated site for a child of the medium,” according to the L2 survey. Ouch.  

Others getting an average grade are

* 43 Cartier, score of 96, “Good-looking, but faulty site mechanics;”

* 45 Swarovski, 94, “Social media properties shimmer, but site has lost its sparkle;” and

* 47 Swatch, 92, “Multi-site e-commerce navigation lacks intuition.”

Zales Jewelers, which ranked 52nd, was the only watch and jewelry brand in the “Challenged” category with a score of 83; “Enhancing mobile and YouTube offering would help.”

Then there’s Tourneau, which ranked dead last in the survey at 64th with a score of 43. It is one of only two brands to place in the “Feeble” category for failing to have an e-commerce site. “Clock is ticking before getting completely left behind,” the survey states.

No jewelry and watch brands made the Genius category.

“On average, users spend more time on brand sites with higher Digital IQs,” L2 said in its survey. “This uptick in site visits also translates to more site visits per user and higher frequency visits.”

There is some good news in the survey for jewelry and watch brands. It includes:

* Tiffany & Co. is among those considered a facebook overachiever based on its facebook page popularity;

* Swarovski facebook page attracted nearly 1.3 million "Likes," the ninth highest among those surveyed.

* Cartier has one of the fastest growing twitter accounts, ranking eighth overall;

* Cartier ranks third and Tiffany ranks fifth among brands with the most upload views on YouTube; and

* Cartier's Calibre de Cartier, Mechanics of Passion, (Short Version) Youtube video is among the most popular brand videos, ranking eighth, with more than 1.3 million views.

Other survey highlights after the page break:

* The top three companies in the survey and the ones only earning a spot in “Genius” category are Macy’s, Victoria’s Secret and Nordstrom. Rounding out the top five are Sephora and Urban Outfitters.

Apart from search engines, facebook is the leading source of both upstream and downstream traffic to and from nearly every retailer’s site.

* Examination of retailers’ facebook walls reveals that fans are most receptive to product-related messaging.

* Thirteen percent of brands surveyed are on the cusp of breaking into f-commerce, offering heavily curated product catalogs with live links from their facebook page to product pages on their e-commerce site.

* The most profound shift from the 2010 Index was the pace of mobile adoption across platforms. In last year’s study, less than 30 percent of brands were optimized for a mobile platform. This year 67 percent of brands support a mobile site, and nearly 45 percent have an iPhone app. Adoption of the iPad is nascent, but rapidly gaining momentum, growing six-fold since 2010.

* “A missed opportunity for retailers in mobile is Android adoption,” L2 said in its survey. Android users’ ad impression share surpassed that of iOS mobile users in December 2010. In April, Nielsen reported that more consumers plan to buy a smartphone powered by Android than any other OS.8 Gilt Groupe, Rue La La, and Macy’s were the only brands in the study to offer any type of Android app.

Tiffany Exec Arrested for Stealing $1.3M in Jewelry

The Linkedin photo of Ingrid Lederhaas-Okun. 

Ingrid Lederhaas-Okun, a former VP of Design & Product Development at Tiffany & Co., was arrested Tuesday morning at her residence in Darien, Conn., for allegedly stealing nearly $1.3 million worth of jewelry from her employer. She was scheduled to be arraigned in Manhattan federal court later in the day to face charges of wire fraud and interstate transportation of stolen property.

Lederhaas-Okun used her executive position to allegedly “check out” 165 pieces of jewelry with a retail value of more than $1.2 million, including diamond bracelets, platinum or gold diamond drop and hoop earrings, platinum diamond rings, and platinum and diamond pendants, according to a statement from the U.S. Attorney’s Office for the Southern District of New York

She then allegedly “sold some if not all” of this jewelry for $1.3 million to a company the feds describe as “a leading international buyer and reseller of jewelry with an office in midtown Manhattan,” according to the statement.

In addition to the jewelry under question, federal prosecutors allege that in November 2012, following an announcement by Tiffany that it was going to undertake a full physical inventory review, Lederhaas-Okun said that approximately $1.5 million worth of jewelry which she had checked out would have to be written off. “However, none of that jewelry was ever returned to the jewelry company, contrary to the usual practice of accounting for inventory, such as damaged jewelry, that would have to be written off because it had been rendered unusable in some way,” federal officials said in the statement

Prosecutors allege that Lederhaas-Okun made repeated false statements to the luxury jeweler. “For example, after her termination in February 2013, she told the jewelry company that she had only recently checked out the missing jewelry in anticipation of creating a PowerPoint presentation for her supervisor, and that a draft of the presentation could be found on her office computer. However, the missing pieces of jewelry had been checked out months earlier, her supervisor was unaware of any such presentation being worked on … and there was no draft presentation on her computer.”

Lederhaas-Okun also claimed the jewelry in question could be found in a white envelope in her office, but after a search of her office, the envelope wasn’t recovered, prosecutors allege.

The statement did not identify Tiffany by name. However, a Linkedin page for Lederhaas-Okun shows that she worked for the luxury retail jeweler from January 1991 till March 2013, including a six-year stint as VP of Design & Product Development. 


Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes Website.

Tiffany Names Pat McGuiness CFO and Jim Fernandez as COO


Tiffany & Co. made two changes among its executive officers, effective immediately.

Patrick F. McGuiness, 45, was appointed senior vice president and chief financial officer. McGuiness joined Tiffany in 1990 and has held a variety of management positions within the finance and merchandising divisions. He was promoted to senior vice president - finance in 2007, responsible for Tiffany's worldwide financial functions. With this appointment, he will continue to be responsible for accounting, treasury, financial planning and financial services and will now also be responsible for the company's investor relations program.

James N. Fernandez, 55, was named to the newly-created role of chief operating officer. Fernandez has served as the company's chief financial officer since 1989 and was promoted to executive vice president and chief financial officer in 1998. Over the years he added other responsibilities including diamond operations, real estate operations, distribution, manufacturing, customer service and security. He joined Tiffany in 1983.

“These two executives have both developed first-class finance and operations functions, and I consider this to be a natural progression consistent with the Company's continuing organizational development,” said Michael J. Kowalski, Tiffany chairman and CEO.

Fernandez will continue to report to Kowalski and McGuiness will report to Fernandez, the luxury jeweler said.

Tiffany & Co., based in New York, operates jewelry stores and manufactures products through its subsidiary corporations. Its principal subsidiary is Tiffany and Company, which operates Tiffany & Co.. retail stores and boutiques in the Americas, Asia-Pacific, Japan and Europe and engages in direct selling through Internet, catalog and business gift operations.

The Jewelry Industry is Better Prepared to Handle a Downturn

The opening day crowd during the 2011 JCK Las Vegas tradeshow held at Mandalay Bay. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

Not since 2009 has the global economy and the jewelry industry’s place in it been so unstable. This comes as the international jewelry industry descends on Las Vegas for a series of tradeshows beginning Monday (led by JCK Las Vegas at Mandalay Bay and The Couture Show at the Wynn Las Vegas) where retailers will purchase their inventory for the all-important holiday season. It’s one of the largest jewelry trade events on the global calendar and it will be a real test on whether the U.S. jewelry industry can withstand the latest onslaught of mixed economic news.

I think the jewelry industry will prevail. The industry itself has done little to exacerbate the fragile global economic situation. In fact, it has performed admirably during these difficult economic times—outside of the diamond industry with its mishandling of the Zimbabwe human rights issue and now diamond grading scandals at two labs

After the contraction of the U.S. jewelry industry in 2009, it has been posting mostly positive numbers and showing consistent, incremental growth. Unlike the banking industry, it has learned from its mistakes. The jewelry industry is not as leveraged as it was in 2008. It is doing better at using the Internet and social media instead of treating it as the enemy. Creativity has taken over as well. As the cost of materials increased, designers and manufacturers have created objects of adornment using more color, a variety of materials and high-quality craftsmanship. The jewelry industry as a whole is a smarter and more humble industry than it was prior to 2008.

However, it must get past an economic situation that is again rising to a boil led by two factors that just won’t go away: Wall Street’s reckless behavior and its defiant stance against any regulation; and the Euro crisis.

The Facebook IPO debacle managed by Morgan Stanley and JPMorgan Chase’s $2 billion-plus trading loss by taking large positions in credit default swaps show that Wall Street has learned nothing from the 2008 financial crisis that nearly took down the world economy.

Meanwhile, the end of the Euro or at least a serious contraction of the European Union now seems a possibility. Greece is on the brink of outright rejecting the monetary union and other countries are saddled with outrageous debt that member countries seem unable or unwilling to resolve. There are an endless number of theories as to what will happen if the Union disbands or shrinks, which tells me that no one really knows what will happen. But everyone in Europe seems to be scared.

The jewelry industry has its own challenges and victories, some of which were revealed this week. Among them:

* Tiffany & Co., the luxury retailer jeweler that has performed like a juggernaut throughout this recession, downgraded its outlook Thursday based on a softening of sales in the U.S. and abroad.

* Meanwhile, it’s the mid-market jewelers that are showing resiliency. Signet Jewelers, the largest specialty retail jeweler in the U.S. and U.K., whose brands include Kay and Jared, reported modest growth in the first quarter Thursday (sales up 1.4 and comps up 1.2 percent). Zale Corp., the long-struggling North American specialty retail jeweler, showed significant growth in its first quarter report Wednesday (8 percent increase in sales and comps).

* Online jewelry and diamond retailer, Blue Nile, reported a 3.6 percent first quarter increase in sales. However, lower markups led to a 9.7 percent decline in gross profits.

* The Swiss watch industry, which appeared invincible throughout the recession, is reporting that its phenomenal growth is slowing to just robust levels. Watch exports increased 9 percent in April, down from 16.1 percent for the first four months of the year, according to the Swiss Federal Customs Office.

* However, the large luxury conglomerates are still poised for strong growth throughout the world. For example, LVMH reported that its Watch & Jewellery division sales increased by 141 percent increase, year-over-year, to $826.6 million. This is misleading as LVMH acquired Italian luxury jewelry house, Bulgari, in March 2011. Excluding the Bulgari acquisition, sales increased 17 percent. Richemont, reported that jewelry and watch sales rose 32 percent for the year, with overall sales in the Americas up 26 percent.

Despite the uncertainty, I expect to see a positive environment and exciting new jewelry designs at the tradeshows. Most importantly, I anticipate business to be strong. Unlike 2008, the industry is better prepared today to meet these challenges.