Happy Holidays

Jewelry News Network will be taking a few days off for the holidays. We wish you and your loved ones a holiday filled with warmth and good spirits and a new year filled with peace and prosperity. 

A special thanks to Aneta-Monika Lidogoster for creating this wonderful holiday image.

Anthony DeMarco

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The 'Millennials’ - insights Into What’s Shaping their Buying Habits

Photo credit: Shannon Stapleton/Reuters

Jewelry News Network guest columnist, Chris Benham, is co-founder and director of Inspired Jewellery Ltd., Wellington, New Zealand, a global creative studio for specialist jewelry design.

Creating a luxury brand amidst the information overload on the internet is increasingly becoming a challenge. As jewelry companies look to position themselves for the next generation of purchasers, I took the opportunity to ask Hunter and Angelka, both in their early 20’s (the “Millennial Generation”) to share their views on what’s shaping their buying habits and how they are filtering through the holiday sale season madness.

In part one of this two part article we hear from Hunter, followed in part two by Angelka. They provide some valuable views on what’s important to them and insights into what investment jewelry companies need to make to win their trust and future business.

Hunter:

There will always be those who are motivated primarily by price, but I think that quality is becoming a more decisive factor in the purchase decisions of the middle class with budget concerns but still with income disposable for consumer goods purchases.

My purchases have definitely shifted in recent years to quality, longevity, exclusivity, innovation and/or tradition, and un-branded, timeless style. Plain leather shoes, vinyl records, and Ikea furniture being a few examples. The brands that appeal to me are ones that think outside the box and sell me on their product instead of their logo. My watch designed for the sight-impaired, and my urbanears headphones are the kinds of products I most treasure. Based on where I see a lot of these such products coming out of, I think that Northern Europe learnt this idea a while ago.

Our generation has seen quality triumph over price or quantity already in digital media: music and movies are now so easy to purchase online (and of such reliable quality) that the majority of consumers are choosing to do that instead of downloading free pirated copies. I think it's natural to be distrustful of something that's irrationally low priced. There's a reason why a company would charge more for their product, and if it's not because they have an expensive label (see Gucci, Louis Vuitton, etc.), then presumably it's because it costs more to make and is of higher quality.

It's more than just your pricing - your whole company has to reflect that image of forward-thinking design and age-proven quality. It's manifested in everything from the materials of the product (wood, glass, metal, and natural fibers seem to be preferred over plastic and its derivatives) to the fonts you use on the website.

I value companies that have a forward-thinking outlook, but root it in a timeless, tangible product. In particular companies that build a story around the people behind the products. When I bought my watch (designed for the sight-impaired), I could view on the company's website not only the entire company from designers to marketers, but also some of the blind people they brought on as beta testers. That human element really set them apart to me. I would continue to stress it when individuals design and build jewelry. 

Charitable donations and purchases are increasingly indistinct to my generation, and so when we have the chance to directly support people with our purchases, we respond to that. Kickstarter, the crowdfunding site where you pledge money that becomes the company's investment capital in return for perks or the first products off the line, does a great job of leveraging that. Another example is a website called Subbable - I donate a small monthly amount to online video producers that I like to support their (ad-free) content, and in return I can "bank" those dollars towards perks (like merchandise). I wouldn't do this if I didn't feel some connection to the producers. 

I definitely believe that buying decisions in my generation are shifting from purely price-driven to something based in quality that reflects one's personality and tells a unique story.

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Luxury Jewelry and Watch Brands Make their Mark at Art Basel Miami Beach

Van Cleef & Arpels celebrates international debut of GEMS Part II by Benjamin Millepied. Photo credit: Joe Gato

Van Cleef & Arpels, Forevermark Diamonds, Roger Dubuis and IWC were among the luxury jewelry and watch brands that were hosting special events at the 13th edition of Art Basel Miami Beach, held December 3 -7. 

On December 1, Van Cleef & Arpels, celebrated the international premiere of “Gems Part II: Hearts & Arrows,” the second chapter in a three-part dance. Gems was created exclusively for the French luxury jeweler through a collaboration with Benjamin Millepied and his L.A. Dance Project. The brand has been long committed to creativity, culture, and dance. The performance presented a new interpretation of precious stones, supported by artist Liam Gillick and a score composed by Philip Glass.

Van Cleef & Arpels “Pas de Deux Nacre” clip. Diamonds, yellow sapphires and white and golden mother-of-pearl set in 18k white gold. The clip is transformable so that dancers and diamond motif can be worn together or separately.

Presented in downtown Miami at the Olympia Theater at the Gusman Center, the evening was held to benefit The Wolfsonian - FIU. Following the performance, the celebration continued at The Alfred I. DuPont Building, where guests were treated to dinner prepared by famed chef, Daniel Boulud. Models draped in Van Cleef & Arpels jewels appeared then vanished through a corridor of mirrors. High jewelry pieces were displayed in deconstructed galleries that played with proportion and perspective. A portal in a secret vault revealed a kaleidoscope of brilliant gems, hidden within the walls. 

Among those in attendance, Nicolas Bos, president and CEO of Van Cleef & Arpels, Alain Bernard, president and CEO of Van Cleef & Arpels, Americas, Benjamin Millepied, founder of the L.A. Dance Project, Matthew Abess, curator at the Wolfsonian - FIU, and Sergey Filin, ballet director of the Bolshoi Ballet.

Model and DJ Hannah Bronfman (right) and artist Mylinh Trieu Nguyen in Forevermark diamond jewelry.

On December 2, Forevermark, the diamond brand from The De Beers Group of Companies, hosted a VIP Preview Reception at the Institute of Contemporary Art, Miami’s Opening Celebration, the official museum kick-off event for Miami Art Week.

The event served to unveil the “Promise” installation. Designed by Miami resident artist Mylinh Trieu Nguyen, the installation displayed a selection of diamonds from the Forevermark Exceptional Diamond Collection. Nguyen's installation illuminated the intersection of art, design, technology, and the diamond through videos that respond to the symbolism and character of one of the most prized and valued objects on earth.

Model and DJ, Hannah Bronfman, was on hand wearing some of the pieces.

On December 3, Jean-Marc Pontroué, Roger Dubuis CEO, and supermodel Stephanie Seymour (above) hosted a private dinner at the new Thompson Miami Beach hotel. The approximate 100 persons who attended, included Russell Simmons, Jonathan Cheban, Geoff Stults and Klaus Biesenbach of MoMA.

Velvet Haute Couture Mink Fur

The event was a chance to showcase the Swiss watch brand’s new Velvet Haute Couture collection, a limited edition of three models within the brand’s Velvet ladies collection. All of the models in the collection have a big dose of glamour with distinguishable design characteristics, such as graphic split-level dials and dynamic numerals tapering toward the center. As the face of the Velvet collection, Seymour was on hand along with her husband Peter Brant.

Karolina Kurkova wears Forevermark diamond jewelry at IWC Gala.

Also on December 3, Karolina Kurkova was adorned in Forevermark diamonds while attending a gala event hosted by Swiss luxury watch brand, IWC at W South Beach Hotel. The model was wearing the Forevermark Cluster Shield Ring and Teardrop Earrings. The event was held to mark the launch of the new Portofino Midsize watch collection.

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Navajo Jewelry ‘Glitters’ at American Indian Museum Exhibition

Bracelet by Raymond C. Yazzie, 2005. Silver inlaid with coral, turquoise, lapis lazuli, 14k gold accents. Collection of Mark and Martha Alexander.

“Glittering World: Navajo Jewelry of the Yazzie Family” explores the intersection of art and commerce through Navajo jewelry making. The exhibition of 300 items will run till January 10, 2015, at the by The Smithsonian Institution’s National Museum of the American Indian George Gustav Heye Center, located in the Alexander Hamilton U.S. Custom House in New York.

Blue Corn Bracelet by Lee A. Yazzie, 1980. Bisbee and Royal Web turquoise, lapis lazuli, coral and opal. Private Collection of Joe and Cindy Tanner.

The exhibition focuses on jewelry made by members of Yazzie family of Gallup, N.M., which the museum describes as “one of the most celebrated jewelry making families of our time” for their silver, gold and stone inlay works. The bead and stone work of Mary Marie Yazzie is also featured in the exhibition.

Sun Face Bolo by Raymond C. Yazzie, 2013. Lone Mountain turquoise, 14k gold, silver. Diameter, 2 in. Collection of Lloyd and Betty Van Horn.

Various types of turquoise, coral and opal are used to create the pieces along with other materials, such as lapis lazuli and sugilite set with gold and silver. Many of the materials have both spiritual and economic value for Navajo peoples and are sacred stones in Navajo beliefs.

Nugget Necklace by Raymond C. Yazzie, 2009. Fossilized Lone Mountain turquoise, lapis lazuli, coral, sugilite, opal, 14-karat gold. Overall length, 31 in. Collection of Susan Heyneman.

The majority of the objects are based on nature with traditional Navajo themes, such as the Blue Corn bracelet, which replicates an open ear of corn with the kernels made of coral, turquoise or lapis lazuli with 14k gold accents. In addition, the painting-like Blessings bracelet is an abstract depiction of katsinas, a spirit being. It is constructed from approximately 485 stones of various turquoises, black onyx, Australian opal, lapis lazuli, sugilite, coral, gaspeite, and 14k gold, with a base of rare Water Web Kingman turquoise.

Lapis Bracelet by Lee A. Yazzie, 1984. Lapis lazuli, 18k gold. National Museum of the American Indian collection.

The displays show the relationship with the family’s artistic and crafts skills, their Southwest environments and their strong connection to their Navajo culture.

Squash Blossom Necklace by Lee A. Yazzie, 2012. Lone Mountain turquoise, silver. Collection of Jeffrey and Carole Katz.

“This exhibition tells a story of both the artisans and the craftsmanship, exploring the natural materials, cultural influences and surroundings that inspire the Yazzie family,” said Kevin Gover (Pawnee), director of the National Museum of the American Indian. “The exhibition goes beyond Native art to tell the story of the interplay between Navajo culture and commerce, which is in keeping with the museum’s mission to evolve the way visitors see and experience the long saga and continuing life of Native peoples.”

Blessing Bracelet by Raymond C. Yazzie, 2002-3. Height, 1 1/2 in. Collection of Daniel Hidding.

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Ring by Raymond C. Yazzie, 2006. Opal, coral, lapis lazuli, jade, Blue Gem turquoise, Orvil Jack turquoise, 14k gold. Height. Collection of Leota and Phil Knight.

Jewelry and Watches a Top e-Commerce Performer

Jewelry and Watches is one of several product categories that grew at least 15 percent in sales, compared to a year ago, according to comScore, Inc., a digital measurement and analytical firm.

The Reston, Va.-based company did not give details on the jewelry with a report it recently published. However, jewelry and watches was a top performer, along with other categories that experienced year-over-year growth of 15 percent. They include: digital content and subscriptions, event tickets, consumer electronics (excluding computer peripherals) and computer software.

Overall online retail spending reached $36.3 billion for the third quarter, up 13 percent, comScore said. This represents the eighth consecutive quarter of positive year-over-year growth and fourth consecutive quarter of double-digit growth rates.

“The third quarter of 2011 saw a continuation of the year’s strength in U.S. retail e-commerce spending, even in the face of renewed economic headwinds and uncertainty facing the U.S. consumer,” said Gian Fulgoni, comScore chairman. “As we approach the critical holiday shopping season, we are optimistic about the continued health of the e-commerce sector despite other factors—including stubbornly high unemployment and volatile financial markets—currently weighing on the economy.”

The 13-percent growth in the quarter was primarily a function of an increase in the number of buyers (up 22 percent), the Reston, Va.-based company said. About 74 percent of all Internet users made at least one online purchase during the quarter.

A total of 40 percent of e-commerce transactions included free shipping, down from a peak of 49 percent in the fourth quarter of 2010. Free shipping rates tend to peak during the holiday season.

Travel and Architecture's Influence on Jewelry Design

Disosceles ring inspired by the CCTV building in Beijing.

Jewelry News Network guest columnist, Chris Benham, is co-founder and director of Inspired Jewellery Ltd., Wellington, New Zealand, a global creative studio for specialist jewelry design.  

Each piece of jewelry designed by Ian Douglas, design director of Inspired Jewellery, has a story behind it. Inspirations that only a creative mind could weave into works of art in such abstract ways. Something we can all relate to is the endless inspiration that travel provides. Some people keep a diary to recount their travels, some take thousands of photos. Ian designs jewelry that acts as a visual journal of his travels, taking inspiration from what he has seen and turning this into beautifully crafted pieces.

A recurring theme seen in Ian’s jewelry is architecture from around the globe. Not surprising, as Ian’s original ambition was to become an architect. It is clear that the passion's still there as it influences many of his designs. Each ring design is like a mini building. Like buildings, they are complex structures that must hold together and form a function while still looking beautiful and aesthetically balanced on the hand. As architecture takes many forms in different cultures and contexts, each piece of jewelry is unique and serves as a real reminder of the places Ian has traveled.

In Beijing, a true marvel of architecture is the new CCTV building designed by Dutch and German architects Rem Koolhaas and Ole Scheeren of OMA. As Ian travelled to Beijing a number of times while working on a contract with Hiersun’s I Do stores in China, the striking design of the building continued to resonate with him; the offset form, cantilevered structure and overhanging center begged to be transformed into a ring. The resulting Disosceles ring (top photo) plays with rigid form and lines, yet blends perfectly around the finger; an architecturally-inspired wonder and a lasting memory of Beijing.

The CCTV building

In New York, inspiration is on every corner - you only need to look up. The Empire ring is one of the mementos of Ian’s time in Manhattan. The ring bears a style and energy that can only be described as quintessentially New York. “It’s a city that has a rawness and a refinement, incredible architecture and people, all interacting to create a feeling you can only connect to if you visit and, better still, live there. Inspired by the Empire State Building, the Empire ring is designed to distil those feelings,” says Ian.

A trip to Paris inspired the Pompidou ring. The Museum of Modern Art, with the services of the building placed on the exterior, is an exciting and visually challenging building. The wonderful contrast of line, color and movement is reflected in the Pompidou ring’s abstract patterns of contrasting gold and platinum, set off with a beautiful pear shape diamond, which serves as a collision of form and a design that exudes modern Paris chic.

A little closer to our home in New Zealand, inspiration taken from the scenery and landscapes of Australia that trace the origin of the diamonds in the Sol Ring are combined with the imagery of the sun dancing on the sweeping curves of the Sydney Opera House. Modern, urban architecture and rough outback terrain may seem like an unlikely combination, but one that epitomizes the beauty of Australia. The ring was created as part of the Terra Sol Collection designed for De Beers DTC Sightholder Diambel NV. 

The Leela ring is simply named after the hotel that Ian stayed at while in Bangalore. The architectural forms and exquisite detail in the hotel facade were enough to inspire this intricate ring.

Ian’s hometown of Wellington provides more architectural inspiration for his ring designs. The architecture of the Te Papa National Museum showcases a building that is a contrast of color and form. Using subtle color tones of palladium against white gold, Pacifica patterns of yellow gold and a blue topaz portraying the surrounding ocean, the Te Papa ring symbolizes the city. 

Ian’s travels and his appreciation of architecture are celebrated through his jewelry designs. As a designer, inspiration is gained from all facets of life; it is clear that travel and architecture is an endless inspiration source in the design of jewelry. For Ian, his visual travel journal continues to expand as he transforms wondrous sites into beautifully crafted pieces of jewelry, bringing a piece of the world home with him each time.

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Q3 Global Gold Jewelry Demand Down 4%, US Demand Up 4%; India Demand Surges 60%

Global gold jewelry demand fell 4 percent year-over-year to 534.2 tons for the third quarter of 2014, according to the World Gold Council in its Gold Demand trend report released Thursday. However, the decline comes against an unusually robust third quarter of 2013, which experienced the strongest growth for jewelry demand since 2008. 

“Longer term analysis shows a market in good health. Q3 demand was marginally stronger than the five-year quarterly average of 527.6 tons, while year-to-date volumes continue to extend the broad uptrend from the low seen in 2009,” the WGC said in its report.

Two markets did shine, the US, with a 4 percent rise that helped lift manufacturing outputs in several gold jewelry producing countries; and India, which surged 60 percent. China and Hong Kong, meanwhile, experienced steep declines in gold jewelry demand. 

US ‘Revival’
The WGC’s report said the economic recovery and a downward trend in the price of gold created a “revival” of gold jewelry demand in the US that has had a “ripple effect” around the world.

“The US sucked in greater volumes of gold jewelry imports from markets as diverse as India, China, Italy, Mexico and Oman, according to the report. “Third quarter growth in the US market was very much an extension of the trend that has prevailed since early last year. Mounting conviction in the economic recovery has boosted sentiment and whetted consumers’ appetite for discretionary purchases. Gold jewelry has been a clear beneficiary: improving sales of higher carat and non-wedding related items helped demand to the highest Q3 total since 2009.”

The report added, “Lower gold prices have aided the recovery of US demand as retailers are more easily able to meet key price points without crimping margins. Or, similarly, to increase karatage while maintaining price levels. This has enticed some mass- market retailers back into the gold jewelry sector.”

India
The market that had the strongest third quarter by far was India, which reported a 60 percent year-over-year increase to nearly 183 tons—the second highest third quarter on record, the WGC said. 

“The third quarter of 2013 was decidedly weak as the introduction of complicated new measures to restrict gold imports and the subsequent sharp rise in local prices knocked demand,” the WGC said in its report. “But this quarter, other more positive forces were also at play.”

Among those forces is the confidence in the new Indian government led by Prime Minister Narendra Modi, a drop in the price of gold and robust buying during the Diwali festival season. 

“Although Indian consumers are typically wary of buying gold while the price is still moving, preferring to wait until it settles at a more stable level, the opportunity to buy at cheaper prices proved, for some, hard to resist.”

China
Meanwhile, China experienced a 39 percent year-over-year decline to 147.1 tons in gold jewelry demand. Hong Kong (where consumers from the mainland China account for most of the demand) fell 31 percent to 9 tons. The WGC said much of this decline is in comparison to the rapid expansion throughout 2013 and that gold jewelry sales are normalizing.

“18-karat (K-gold) jewelry was relatively more robust than the 24-karat (chuk kam) segment,” the WGC said. “The government’s anti-corruption drive may have contributed to this trend.”

Other Markets:
* Indonesia saw third quarter demand fall 16 percent to 9.7 tons partially in response to strength of demand last year. However, the WGC said “equally important was the Presidential election in July, which created a degree of political instability and discouraged spending on gold jewelry.” 

* Third quarter jewelry demand in Turkey fell 18 percent, year-over-year, to 19.2 tons—the lowest third quarter on record, the WGC said. “Consumers were unnerved by domestic political turmoil; worrying economic signals; and escalating Syrian violence in close proximity to the Turkish border. The ban on paying for gold jewelry by credit card installments continued to hang over the market, although this restriction was partially repealed in October.”

* Demand in the Middle East fell 14 percent year-over-year to 36 tons. Demand for gold jewelry across the region suffered from the comparison with strong demand last year, the WGC said, leading to a trend towards lower-karat and gem-set jewelry.

* Jewelry demand in the UK increased 18 percent to 4.6 tons, the fifth consecutive year-over-year rise.

* Gold jewelry demand in Russia edged up 1 percent year-over-year to 18.6 tons, despite a rise in the average domestic gold price due to a weaker rouble, the WGC said. 

* Demand in Italy fell 4 percent year-over-year to 2.7 tons. 

The Gold Demand Trends report also tracks gold for investment and technology purposes. In the third quarter overall demand was “subdued,’ the WGC said, falling by 2 percent to 929.3 tons. The price was relatively stable for the period. 

“Quarterly volatility in the US$ gold price was among the lowest levels seen over the past two decades,” WGC said. “This was both a cause and effect of the benign demand environment. Investor behavior in particular contributed to this circularity: the lack of a clear price signal caused investors to hold back from buying gold, which in turn dampened down price moves.”

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Jewelry From Empress Eugenie and Duchess of Windsor Headlines Christie’s Geneva Sale

Empress Eugenie's Feuilles De Groseillier brooch

The “Feuilles de Groseillier” brooch, commissioned in 1855 by Empress Eugenie of France (1826-1920) to French jeweler Alfred Bapst, is one of two statement lots of jewelry with royal provenance to be offered at Christie’s Geneva Magnificent Jewels sale on November 11. Once part of the French Crown Jewels, of which very few examples in original condition have survived, it has an estimate of $2 to $3 million.

The jewel is designed as a cluster of three gold and silver openworked currant leaves with three tassels. It is set throughout with old mine diamonds and is centered with a cushion-shaped mine diamond.

The Parure de Feuilles de Groseillier was originally designed as a guirlande (garland) and worn in multiple ways. In 1870, at the fall of the Second Empire, Empress Eugenie and her husband Napoleon III moved to England, leaving behind most of the Crown Jewels. Seventeen years later, the French government conducted a 12-day auction where all the belongings of the French Royal Family were offered for sale, including the jewelry. Several of the larger pieces were broken up prior to the auction so the stones could be sold individually. The guirlande was sold as eight parts and the present brooch was acquired by Tiffany & Co. The jeweler then gifted the brooch to the Metropolitan Opera of New York as a tribute to the famous opera singer Madame Lucrezia Bori (1887-1960).

Duchess Of Windsor's Cartier Tiger jewels

The other lot is of British royal provenance. They are two pieces of tiger jewelry by Cartier, formerly from the collection of the Duchess of Windsor. They were given to Sarah Brightman, the world’s best selling soprano, by her then husband Andrew Lloyd Webber, composer and impresario of musical theater. They were a present to her to celebrate the London and Broadway success of “The Phantom of the Opera,” which he wrote and she starred. They were purchased during the legendary sale of Duchess of Windsor’s collection in 1987.

The two tiger pieces comprising of an onyx and diamond clip brooch and bracelet, with emerald eyes, were both made in the 1950s and will be sold as one lot with a combined estimate of $1.8 million to $2.5 million.

The Cartier Tiger Collection has been a highlight of 20th Century jewelry design since it first appeared in 1928. These pieces were bought by the Duke and Duchess of Windsor from Cartier between 1956 and 1959.

Brightman will offer a portion of the proceeds from the sale to The Andrew Lloyd Webber Foundation, which supports the arts, music in schools, The Architectural Heritage Fund and awards 30 performing arts scholarships annually.

Bulgari diamond ear pendant

While the two items of monarchial heritage are impressive, the top lot for the upcoming sale at the Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues goes to a sparkling pair of Bulgari pear-shaped colored diamond ear-pendants with a pre-sale estimate of $12 million to $15 million.

The ear pendants, which the auction house is calling “A Bulgari Masterpiece,” have marquise and pear-shaped diamond cluster tops weighing approximately 19.28 carats. Suspended from the clusters are a 6.95-carat, pear-shaped fancy vivid blue diamond and a 6.79-carat, pear-shaped fancy vivid pink diamond. Both statement diamonds are detachable. The diamonds are mounted in platinum and gold.

This auction of 390 lots has several other significant colored gems, signature jewels and important natural pearls. Among them are:

The "Blue Belle of Asia"

* The fourth largest faceted sapphire in the world, the “Blue Belle of Asia,” a cushion shaped Ceylon sapphire of 392.52 carats. It has an estimate of $7 to $10 million. The gem was discovered in 1926 at Pelmadula, Ratnapura (‘The City of Gems’), in Ceylon and was sold to British motor magnate Lord Nuffield (1877-1963), founder of Morris Motors Limited in 1937, according to the auction house. It was rumored that he purchased the sapphire to present to Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother, on her Coronation Day on May 12, 1937. The gem is suspended on a diamond tassel pendant and attached to a diamond neckchain mounted in gold.

* A 23.66-carat Burmese ruby mounted by Cartier, known as “The Queen of Burma,” was purchased at Cartier in London on November 1937 by the Maharao of Cutch (1866-1942). Its estimate is $5.5 - $7 million. The auction house says the gem “combines all the most sought-after qualities in a ruby: an attractive vivid pinkish red color, an excellent purity, an impressive size and the finest origin.”

* Seven jewels by JAR, some of which were recently on display at the ‘Jewels by JAR’ exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. Among the group of jewels offered for sale are the ‘Gardenia’ ring, formerly in The Collection of Ellen Barkin ($330,000 - $390,000), the sculpted gold Parrot Tulip cuff ($210,000 - $310,000) and a pair of diamond ‘String’ ear pendants ($140,000 - $200,000).

Art Deco diamond and pearl necklace

* Formerly in the collection of Baroness Edouard de Rothschild, an Art Deco diamond necklace, suspended with two natural pearls, measuring 16mm each ($700,000 - $1 million).

Harry Winston diamond ear pendants.

* Diamond ear pendants by Harry Winston with two drop-shaped natural pearls weighing more than 100 grains each ($2.8 - $3.5 million).

* A two-strand natural pearl necklace with rose overtones by Cartier ($530,000 - $850,000).

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Tiffany Looks to China for Growth

Tiffany & Co. Shanghai Store.  Photo: Cal Otero

Luxury retailer jeweler Tiffany & Co. said it will open more stores in China than anywhere else in the world over the next three years.

“China will rapidly become the place where we will have the greatest number of new stores. Within the next three years, the number will stand between 25 and 30,” Michael J. Kowalski, chairman of Tiffany & Co, told China Daily.

The New York-based company plans to open four stores in China during the current fiscal year, which ends January 2011 and will invest more heavily in the country’s second and third tier cities, Kowalski reportedly said.

Expansion in China is being driven by robust sales growth in the market, Kowalski said. In the second quarter of 2010, Tiffany witnessed its fastest growth in China, with a 27 percent increase, year-over-year. He expects sales in the Asia-Pacific region, led by China, to increase by more than 20 percent. He said China will surpass the United States as the largest jewelry market in the world over the next five to 10 years.

The jeweler currently has 12 retail stores and boutiques in China, including three in Beijing, four in Shanghai and one in Chengdu. Its store at the China World Shopping Mall in Beijing opens this month, with another in Kunming opening in December.

To attract as many customers as possible in its fastest-growing market, Tiffany unveiled its 2011 jewels and diamonds collections in Beijing on October 22—the first time the brand has unveiled a major new collection outside the U.S.

“We aim to let Chinese customers become more familiar with the connotation and history of our brand through this activity, which brings Tiffany closer to its Chinese buyers,” Kowalski reportedly said.

In contrast to other luxury brands, whose stores are operated by their Chinese distributors, all of Tiffany's boutiques in China are owned directly by the company, and that will continue to be the case, Kowalski reportedly told the newspaper. Currently, 97 percent of Tiffany stores around the world are operated directly by the company.

Hells Angels Sue Alexander McQueen Over Skull and Wing Design

Alexander McQueen's ring that's under dispute by the Hells Angels.

There was a time when the Hells Angels would beat the piss out of anyone who they believed was stealing from them. Now they go to court.

The notorious motorcycle gang has filed a trademark infringement suit against the design brand Alexander McQueen and retailers who are selling the designers’ disputed products, according to media reports.

At issue is the skull design used for McQueen's Hell’s Knuckle brass and silver knuckle duster rings, Professional Jeweller reports. In addition, the suit is targeting a clutch bag, scarf and dress by the designer that feature a similar design.

The Hells Angels are claiming that Alexander McQueen used its patented skull and wing motif without permission. It is also suing Saks and online retailer Zappos.com that sell the items.

The motorcycle group registered patents for its motif in 1984 and has since authorized its use on clothing and jewelry for promotional purposes, according to Professional Jeweller. The suit claims Alexander McQueen did not receive permission.

Blue Nile Sales Up 19.8 Percent

Blue Nile said Thursday its net sales increased 19.8%, year-over-year, to $89.8 million for the third quarter due to a increases in all its product categories, including its new focus on fashion jewelry, and a large increase in new customers. However, international sales fell for the period ended September 30.

Operating income for the diamonds and jewelry Internet retailer totaled $2.7 million, representing an operating margin of 3 percent of net sales. Net income totaled $1.7 million, or $0.14 per diluted share. Non-GAAP adjusted EBITDA for the quarter totaled $4.8 million.

"We are excited to report solid results in the third quarter, with accelerating revenue growth and expanding earnings per share, said Harvey Kanter, president and CEO of the Seattle-based company. “The execution of our strategy is clearly on track. Investments we made in marketing and pricing are working and building momentum behind the strength of our diamond engagement products. Sales of our non-engagement products also improved this quarter, and we are only beginning to launch an assortment of new jewelry aimed to further accelerate our growth. With continued steady execution of our strategy coupled with exciting product offerings for the holiday season, we believe we are well positioned to achieve our goals for 2012.”

Among the highlights for the third quarter:

* U.S. engagement net sales increased 31.5 percent to $54.1 million.
    
* U.S. non-engagement net sales (a new focus for the company) increased 12 percent to $21.8 million.
    
* International net sales fell 3.3 percent to $14.4 million for the third quarter 2011. Excluding the impact from changes in foreign exchange rates, international net sales decreased 1.5 percent.
    
* Gross profit totaled $16.9 million. As a percent of net sales, gross profit was 18.8 percent compared to 19.8 percent for the third quarter of 2011.
    
* New customers grew 22.4 percent.  
    
* Selling, general and administrative expenses were $14.3 million, compared to $12 million in the third quarter of 2011.
    
* At the end of the third quarter, cash and cash equivalents totaled $30.2 million.

In its financial guidance, the company said it expects fourth quarter net sales to be between $140 million and $153 million, with earnings per diluted share are projected at $0.44 to $0.50.

For the fiscal year it expects net sales to be between $404 million and $417 million, with earnings per diluted share are projected at $0.70 to $0.75.

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Hong Kong Trade Fair Attendance Up 16%

The ceremony at the opening of the fair at the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre.

The world’s largest jewelry trade fair has lived up to its billing by smashing attendance records.

The September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair, which concluded September 25, saw its attendance increase by 16.3 percent, according to its organizer, UBM Asia. A total of 51,500 trade professionals from 155 countries and regions had the opportunity to view the product and services of more than 3,450 exhibitors from 46 countries. It was the largest exhibitor and visitor turnout in the Fair’s history.

Buyers from China formed the biggest group of visitors from outside Hong Kong with 11,483, up 45 percent from last year. Buyers from India followed with 3,519 visitors, up 12 percent from last year. The United States placed third with 2,423, up 29 percent from last year.

“The strong visitor attendance from China and India was not surprising, considering that these two markets are the main drivers of jewelry demand today. What was even more encouraging was the growth in visitor attendance from the United States and Italy—29 and 42 percent, respectively,” said Celine Lau, director of Jewellery Fairs, UBM Asia. “There was also notable growth in visitor numbers from Brazil, Israel, Iran, Russia, Taiwan, Turkey and the United Arab Emirates. This tells us clearly that apart from traditional and mainstream jewelry markets, there are emerging markets that show great potential to become a force of growth in the future.”

The September fair was held in two venues: AsiaWorld-Expo from September 19 to 23, and the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre from September 21 to 25.

Other highlights of the trade fair, include:

* More than 114,000 daily visits were recorded during the Fair.

* Hong Kong-based visitors totaled 16,931, accounting for about 33 percent of the total number of visitors. The rest of the visitors: 34,569, or about 67 percent of the overall total, were from overseas.

* The trade fair organized 27 buyers’ delegation comprising a total of 1,300 buyers from China, Finland, India, Israel, Iran, Kazakhstan, Mexico and Russia. Members of the China delegation came from 14 provinces and cities.

* The number of overseas visitors grew by 21.4 percent from last year.

AGTA's 2011 Spectrum Award Winners

The 27th annual AGTA Spectrum Awards competition, sponsored by the American Gem Trade Association was held October 23-24, in New York. Judges for the 2011 competition included magazine editors, jewelry designers and gemstone cutters. The annual AGTA Spectrum Awards Media Day was held Monday and featured all of the jewelry and gemstone submissions. Attendees included top fashion/accessory editors from the trade and consumer press, stylists and bloggers.

AGTA SPECTRUM AWARDS
BEST OF CATEGORY WINNERS

Best of Show
Todd Reed, Todd Reed, Inc. (opening photo)
Palladium cuff bracelet featuring a 22.40 ct. Aquamarine accented with gray diamonds (6.90 ctw.) and white diamonds (2.20 ctw.).

Best Use of Color
Martin Key, Martin Key Co. 

22K yellow gold "Frame" ring featuring a 1.50 ct. blue tourmaline accented with four Mexican fire opal baguettes (1.82 ctw.).

Best Use of Platinum and Color
Niveet Nagpal, Omi Gems, Inc.
Platinum "Princess of Ratnapura" bracelet featuring nine round sapphires (14.0 ctw.) and round diamonds (8.48 ctw.).

Best Use of Pearls
Llyn L. Strelau, Jewels by Design
Sculpture titled "Who Are You" featuring two-tone gold and silver with freshwater baroque Pearls, South Sea keshi Pearls, akoya seed Pearls, demantoid garnets (.25 ctw.), .20 ct. ruby and cognac diamonds (.03 ctw.) on a crystal quartz base (242 ctw.).

Fashion Forward
Gregore Morin, Gregore Joailliers
18K white and yellow gold earrings featuring lemon chrysoprase (22.0 ctw.) accented with garnets (2.38 ctw.).


BRIDAL WEAR

 

Bridal Wear - 1st Place
Niveet Nagpal, Omi Gems, Inc.

Platinum and 18K yellow gold ring featuring a 5.55 ct. oval tsavorite garnet accented with fancy yellow diamonds (.71 ctw.).

Bridal Wear - 2nd Place
Guilherme Ferreira, Vielle Jewelers, LLC

18K yellow gold, palladium and titanium ring featuring a 3.14 ct. yellow tourmaline accented with fancy-colored diamonds (.74 ctw.).

Bridal Wear - 3rd Place
Michael Endlich, Pave Fine Jewelry

Platinum ring featuring a 10.08 ct. cushion-cut spinel accented with diamond baguettes (1.09 ctw.).

Bridal Wear - Honorable Mention
Ryan Roberts, Ryan Roberts, Ltd.

18K white gold ring featuring a 3.02 ct. pink diamond, white diamonds (29.5 ctw.) and pink and brown diamonds (24.5 ctw.).

Bridal Wear - Platinum Honors
Yehouda Saketkhou, Yael Designs

Platinum "Triad" ring featuring a 6.34 ct. unheated blue sapphire accented with white diamonds (1.03 ctw.).

Bridal Wear - Entry Platinum Honors
Robert Pelliccia, J.R. Dunn Jewelers

Platinum ring featuring a 1.37 ct. round blue sapphire accented with diamonds (.46 ctw.) and blue sapphires (.28 ctw.).

Bridal Wear - Manufacturing Honors
Neda Benham, Diamonds For A Cure: 18K rose gold ring with a 3.80 ct. emerald-shaped, rough-cut pink diamond and round diamonds (0.88 ctw.).

BUSINESS/DAY WEAR

Business/Day Wear - 1st Place and Best of Show
Todd Reed, Todd Reed, Inc.: 

Palladium cuff bracelet featuring a 22.40 ct. aquamarine accented with grey diamonds (6.90 ctw.) and white diamonds (2.20 ctw.).

Business/Day Wear - 2nd Place and Fashion Forward
Gregore Morin, Gregore Joailliers

18K white and yellow gold earrings featuring lemon Chrysoprase (22.0 ctw.) accented with garnets (2.38 ctw.).

Business/Day Wear - 3rd Place and Best Use of Color
Martin Key, Martin Key Co.

22K yellow gold "Frame" ring featuring a 1.50 ct. blue tourmaline accented with four Mexican fire opal baguettes (1.82 ctw.).

Business/Day Wear - Honorable Mention
Eva Cheng, Elite Import

18K rose gold pendant/brooch featuring a freeform rose Quartz set with a .70 ct. round diamond and accented with 178 diamonds (1.20 ctw.).

Business/Day Wear - Platinum Honors
Maria Canale, Richard Krementz Gemstones

Platinum "Wave" pendant featuring a 2.18 ct. Paraiba tourmaline accented with diamonds (3.72 ctw.).

Business/Day Wear - Platinum Honors
Ron Lodholz, Stonehaven Jewelry Gallery: Platinum ring featuring a 1.41 ct. aquamarine accented with Diamonds (.06 ctw.).

Business/Day Wear - Manufacturing Honors
Alan Friedman, Alan Friedman

14K white and rose gold ring featuring a 12.59 ct. emerald-cut aquamarine.

CLASSICAL

Classical - 1st Place
Samuel Getz, Samuel Getz Designs

Platinum and 18K yellow gold necklace featuring yellow sapphires (68.77 ctw.), blue sapphires (24.34 ctw.), red spinels (24.20 ctw.) and diamonds (22.38 ctw.).

Classical - 2nd Place
Sean Ryan, Schmitt Jewelers

18K white and rose gold "Just Peachy" ring featuring a 4.50 ct. oval padparadscha sapphire accented with white micropave diamonds (1.13 ctw.).

Classical - 3rd Place
Patricia Van Wagoner, Beija Flor

22K yellow gold necklace featuring a 17.17 ct. rhodochrosite briolette and a 3.58 ct. rhodochrosite kite accented with Paraiba tourmalines (.45 ctw.).

Classical - Honorable Mention
Frederic Sage, Frederic Sage

18K white gold "Modern Deco" cufflinks featuring “seafoam” green tourmalines (4.48 ctw.) and diamonds (.56 ctw.).

Classical - Platinum Honors
Christopher Olson, Molina Fine Jewelers

Platinum "Temple of the Sacred Heart" ring featuring a 10.05 ct. oval untreated ruby accented with white diamonds (7.18 ctw.) and rubies (.22 ctw.).

Classical - Manufacturing Honors
Christopher Duquet, Christopher Duquet Fine Jewelry Design

14K white gold ring featuring a 12.5mm South Sea black pearl.

EVENING WEAR

Evening Wear - 1st Place
Cynthia Renee Zava, Cynthia Renee Zava

Palladium necklace featuring a suite of green tourmalines (75.89 ctw.).

Evening Wear - 2nd Place
Evelyn Clothier, Evelyn Clothier Jewelry

18K yellow gold earrings featuring aquamarine briolettes (50.95 ctw.) accented with Diamonds (9.29 ctw.).

Evening Wear - 3rd Place
Samuel Getz, Samuel Getz Designs

18K white gold ring featuring a 43.05 ct. spherical black opal accented with tsavorite garnets (2.70 ctw.), blue sapphires (2.51 ctw.), iolites (1.53 ctw.), Paraiba Tourmalines (.71 ctw.) and Diamonds (.63 ctw.).

Evening Wear - Honorable Mention
Erica Courtney, Erica Courtney

18K yellow gold earrings featuring tanzanites (77.99 ctw.) and diamonds (3.38 ctw.).

Evening Wear - Platinum Honors
Ralph Wobito, Zultanite Gems, LLC

Platinum earrings featuring zultanite (diaspore) briolettes (25.15 ctw.) accented with white diamonds (0.95 ctw.).

Evening Wear - Manufacturing Honors
Laura Jackowski-Dickson, LJD Designs

18K white gold cuff featuring two South Sea cultured Pearls (14.8mm and 11.3mm) and four freshwater pink cultured Pearls accented with Diamonds.

MEN'S WEAR

Men's Wear - 1st Place
Mark Lauer, Mark Michael Designs

18K yellow gold cufflinks featuring Jasper agate and lapis lazuli composite accented with 2mm spessartite garnets and sapphires.

Men's Wear – 2nd Place
Eddie Sakamoto, Schmitt Jewelers

Platinum "Suspense" ring featuring a 14.49 ct. blue star sapphire accented with diamond baguettes (3.60 ctw.).

Men's Wear - 3rd Place
Ron Lodholz, Stonehaven Jewelry Gallery

18K yellow and rose gold cufflinks featuring cone-cut garnets (10.96 ctw.) with platinum suspensions.

Men's Wear - Honorable Mention
Michael Endlich, Pave Fine Jewelry

22K yellow gold ring featuring an 8.01 ct. purple star sapphire cabochon.

Men's Wear - Platinum Honors
Alan Friedman, Alan Friedman

Platinum ring with a cushion-cut purple spinel (6.62 ct.).

Men's Wear - Manufacturing Honors
Oliver Smith, Oliver Smith Jeweler

Sterling silver and rose gold ring featuring Madagascar Ocean Jasper.

CUTTING EDGE AWARDS

CLASSIC CUT GEMSTONES

A1 - Open Category Classic Gemstone - 1st Place
Joseph Ambalu, Amba Gem Corp.

8.04 ct. pigeon blood ruby.

A1 - Open Category Classic Gemstone -2nd Place
Sailesh Lakhi, Lakhi Impex, Inc.

43.42 ct. cushion-shape, step-cut blue sapphire.

A1 - Open Category Classic Gemstone - 3rd Place
Allen Kleiman, A. Kleiman & Co.

6.66 ct. cushion-cut pink sapphire.

A1 - Open Category Classic Gemstone - Honorable Mention
Gonen Abrahami, ABC Gems

4.93 ct. emerald-cut emerald.

A2 - Open Category All Other Faceted - 1st Place
Ruben Bindra, B & B Fine Gems

9.59 ct. trillion-cut red spinel.

A2 - Open Category All Other Faceted - 2nd Place
Ruben Bindra, B & B Fine Gems

32.58 ct. oval-shape tsavorite garnet.

A2 - Open Category All Other Faceted - 3rd Place
Ben Kho, Kho International, Inc.

12.91 ct. princess-cut rhodochrosite.

A2 - Open Category All Other Faceted - Honorable Mention
Ben Kho, Kho International, Inc.

15.28 ct. ct. oval-cut Imperial topaz.

A2 - Open Category All Other Faceted - Honorable Mention
Jeffrey Bilgore, Jeffrey Bilgore, LLC

49.24 ct. Asscher-cut aquamarine.

PHENOMENAL GEMSTONES

A3 - Open Category Phenomenal - 1st Place
Robyn Dufty, DuftyWeis Opals, Inc.

36.73 ct. Mexican fire opal cabochon.

A3 - Open Category Phenomenal - 2nd Place
Allen Kleiman, A. Kleiman & Co.

Pair of oval alexandrites (3.25 ctw.).

A3 - Open Category Phenomenal – 3rd Place
Jeffrey Bilgore, Jeffrey Bilgore, LLC

15.0 ct. oval cat's eye chrysoberyl.

PAIRS & SUITES

B - Pairs & Suites - 1st Place
Clay Zava, Zava Mastercuts

Suite of pastel cuprian tourmalines (127.40 ctw.).

B - Pairs & Suites - 2nd Place
Allen Kleiman, A. Kleiman & Co.

15-piece round blue Sapphire necklace layout (68.75 ctw.).

B - Pairs & Suites - 3rd Place
Hemant Phophaliya, AG Color, Inc.

Pair of pear-shaped cabochon tanzanites (41.62 ctw.).

B - Pairs & Suites - Honorable Mention
Darrell Jang, Darrell Jang

Aspen-shaped leaves cut from a 15.09 ct. peridot and a 11.15 ct. heliodor

FACETING

C – Faceting - 1st Place
Jeff L. White, J.L. White Fine Gemstones

48.83 ct. square, cushion-cut morganite.

C – Faceting - 2nd Place
John Dyer, John Dyer & Co.

14.43 ct. cushion-cut pink tourmaline (left).

C – Faceting - 3rd Place
Ben Kho, Kho International, Inc.

13.78 ct. sunburst-cut sphalerite.

C – Faceting - Honorable Mention
Ben Kho, Kho International, Inc.

50.20 ct. kaleidoscope-cut kunzite.

CARVING

D – Carving - 1st Place
Joseph August Voss, Joseph August Voss

220.30 ct. crystal quartz carving.

D – Carving - 2nd Place
John Dyer, John Dyer & Co.

62.64 ct. "Golden Reflections" beryl (left).

 D – Carving - 3rd Place
Naomi Sarna, Naomi Sarna Designs

Carved white opal sculpture (149 grams).

COMBINATION

E – Combination - 1st Place
Thomas Trozzo, Trozzo

66.48 ct. square, dimple, concaved, scissor-cut aquamarine.

E – Combination - 2nd Place
John Dyer, John Dyer & Co.

50.92 ct. trillion custom-cut morganite (left).



 E – Combination - 3rd Place
John Dyer, John Dyer & Co.

9.50 ct. Umbalite Garnet (left).

OBJECTS OF ART 
F - Objects of Art - 1st Place

Gregore Morin, Gregore Joailliers

Kokeshi Princess featuring white Opal (83.98 ctw.), basinite (36.29 ctw.), rubellite tourmalines (2.91 ctw.) and diamonds (.72 ctw.) with 18K white gold and platinum on a base of silver, brass and wood.

F - Objects of Art - 2nd Place and Best Use of Pearls
Llyn L. Strelau, Jewels by Design

Sculpture titled "Who Are You" featuring two-tone gold and silver with freshwater baroque Pearls, South Sea keshi Pearls, akoya seed pearls, demantoid Garnets (.25 ctw.), .20 ct. ruby and cognac diamonds (.03 ctw.) on a crystal quartz base (242 ctw.).

F - Objects of Art - 3rd Place
Tigran Lementsyan, Repair Restoration Center

"Dandelion" featuring quartz and diamonds (.36 ctw.) with silver, 18K yellow gold and gold-plated leaves.

F - Objects of Art - Honorable Mention
Darryl Alexander, Alexander's Jewelers

"Got Paint?"- opalized wood with a sterling frame in a black marble base. The paint is sugalite, mookite, turquoise and onyx, with quartz dish & sterling tube with coral. The brushes are onyx, Agate, hematite, quartz and multiple woods.

This year's AGTA Spectrum Award will be presented during the 2011 AGTA GemFair Tucson, February 1 – 6, 2011, at the Tucson Convention Center in Tucson, Ariz. Winning entries will be displayed during the show and AGTA Spectrum Awards recipients will be recognized during the AGTA Dinner Dance and Awards Gala on February 5.

AGTA Spectrum Awards entries were judged on the basis of overall beauty and wearability, innovative design, effective use of materials, quality of gemstones, quality of workmanship, broad-base consumer appeal and potential to generate positive publicity for natural colored gemstones.

AGTA Cutting Edge Awards honor excellence and creativity in lapidary arts, including natural colored gemstones and cultured pearls, carvings, other gem materials and objects of art.

Platinum Honors were once again awarded with the support of Platinum Guild International. All entries whose primary metal was platinum were eligible in this category.

All designs that qualified for the Spectrum Awards competition were considered for Manufacturing Honors. This award celebrates outstanding use of colored gemstones and cultured pearls in jewelry appropriate to be manufactured in production quantities.

Fashion Forward Honors recognizes the outstanding use of colored gemstone and/or cultured pearl beads in artful, trend-setting jewelry. All necklaces, earrings, bracelets or other jewelry that qualified for judging in the AGTA Spectrum Awards competition automatically qualified for Fashion Forward Honors judging.