New Jewelry from Near and Far at the Hong Kong Show

A carved jadeite leaf pendant with diamond setting from Unique Brilliant Ltd., based in Hong Kong.

With more than 3,400 exhibitors from 46 countries and regions, the September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair is a place to see new jewelry from around the world. For many of these companies it is their only opportunity to have their products seen in an international setting.

What follows is a small selection of the jewelry that was presented at the show:

A freshwater pearl ring sits upon a silver ring lined with cubic zirconia from ACH & Co., based in Hong Kong.

An 18k white gold acurved pendant with flower-shaped adornments set in rose gold. Dazzling diamonds of various cuts are set all over the surface to showcase a classy style. From Diaccents Exports in Hong Kong.

An opal ring surrounded with diamonds from Dreamtime, a Kyoto, Japan-based company.

A set of 18k gold earrings with blue sapphire and diamonds from Duang Kaew Jewellery Manufacturer Co Ltd., based in Thailand.

Gold-colored 11-17mm South Sea pearls of AA quality from Luen Hing Pearls & Jewellery Ltd., Hong Kong.

A heart and beads jewelry collection made of natural Madagascan labradorite by Shanghai Jade Gems Factory Ltd.

A silver bracelet with dentrite accents from Silver House Jewellery Ltd., Hong Kong.

A fresh water pearl necklace with silver parts by Tin Yin Jewellery Ltd., based in Hong Kong.

Wai Lun Jewellery Ltd, Hong Kong.

An 18k white gold and diamond bangle from Winstar Jewelery Manufacturer Ltd., Hong Kong.

A Two-tone silver and gold pendant with blue topaz cutting and graduation of amethyst all around from Yakhunit Co Ltd., Thailand.

A 16-inch necklace made with a variety of gemstones, including whisky quartz, prehnite and red chalcedony ZeYu Industries Ltd. ShenZhen, China.

September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair in Pictures

The annual dragon dance that opens the fair.

HONG KONG — It’s the largest fine jewelry tradeshow in the world and it has become the most important event for the worldwide jewelry industry. The September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair lacks the product introductions, fashion trends and the glitz and glamor of Baselworld and the Las Vegas jewelry shows. But when it comes to the business of buying and selling, there's nothing that compares.

Etienne Perret's ceramic jewelry.

“This is the meats and potatoes that fill jewelry store shelves all over the world,” said U.S.-based independent jewelry designer, Etienne Perret, a longtime buyer at the show who was exhibiting for the first time.

My Hong Kong friend Payal Shah, owner of L'Dezen Jewellery showing her diamond earrings.

In some ways it’s a difficult show to cover. Few exhibitors are interested in discussing their products or the jewelry business in general. I spent much of my time arguing with exhibitors about taking pictures of their products. One threatened to call security even though I was authorized to take photos.

I managed to take plenty of pictures anyway as well as get a good overview of the enormity and importance of the show and how Asia has become the most important jewelry market in the world. Stories that I wrote about the show (which runs till September 25) can be read on the JewelleryNetAsia website. There will be more stories appearing on Forbes.com and the Financial Times newspaper. For my site, I decided to take a more visual approach by presenting a pictorial of the show. Enjoy.

Tara and Sons pearl display.

Jeweled sculpture by Stone Young, owner of Handosy Jewelry Co. of Guangzhou, China. He said it was inspired by Noah's Ark.

Colored gemstone jewelry from Chinese retailer Enzo.

Jewelry from Stefan Hafner

Coral sculptures by Lucoral's of Taiwan.

Inside the Colorful and Seductive Solange Bond Street Store

A large round center carpet is marked by candy-colored circular stripes, which complement the bright and plush red walls that contain framed jewelry displays. Antique furnishings, white ceiling with an elaborately designed mirror ball, and mix and match display cases—including the star-shaped center case—round out the bright, funky vibe on the first floor. Photo credit: Solange Azagury-Partridge

LONDON — I haven’t been to all of the retailers on Bond Street but I am confident that there is no other store in this world-renowned luxury shopping district quite like Solange Azagury-Partridge.

From the large images of lips that appear on the storefront to the plush fabrics, the cavern-like private area, the star-shaped display cases, and the constant rhythm of club music, the space has more of a nightclub than it does a jewelry store. There’s even an elaborately designed mirror ball on the first-floor ceiling. Yet it’s the perfect environment for the colorful, creative, seductive and fun jewelry by Solange Azagury-Partridge. 

Plush red walls and frames display a series of jewelry like pieces of art. Items pictured include Crinoline Earrings in 18k yellow gold chain earrings with a hidden rough diamond (top center) and gold tassel earrings (left), along with an assortment of rings. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

The jewelry designer, best known for her “Hot Lips” enamel and silver rings in the shape of a kiss mark, designed the store herself. Opened in 2010, the flagship is one of five SAP stores located around the world. Black and red are the dominate colors. Jewelry is set inside thick, plush walls and lined in either picture rectangular or square frames, like pictures, or in portal-shaped windows. Most of the display cases are shaped like stars. 

Different version of Solange's "Hot Lips," her best-known ring design. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

The room at the entrance is well lit by a large storefront window and is airy due to a white decorative high ceiling, the one that has the mirror ball. A large round center carpet is marked by candy-colored circular stripes, which complement the bright red walls, updated versions of antique furnishings and the mix and match display cases—includes those in the shape of stars.

The display of colorful enamel rings include the green Supernatural Ring and the red Cancer Ring. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

As you descend down a carpeted stairway bathed in orange, yellow, green and blue light, respectively, you enter a darkened room of red drapes, black circular-pattern carpet, and more mixture antique and modern furniture. It’s like the VIP section of a dance club. There’s even more private cavern-like spaces covered in black with ceilings that emit dots of light like stars. Inside these rooms in the center is a single, well-lit, star-shaped display case that appears to be floating in space.

A stairway bathed in different colors of light leads clients to the lower level of the store. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

You leave the darkened space, reenter the sunlit first-floor room and exit back into the normal hustle and bustle of the luxury shopping street feeling just a little bit different.

Darken room with red drapes, black carpet, single pieces of jewelry displayed on walls, minimal furnishings, and a ceiling that sparkles provides the experience similar to a nightclub. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

 

Inside the portal display on the darkened, more private lower level of the store is the Old Fashioned Ruby Necklace comprising marquise cut Ruby set with 'V' claws in an irregular wreath style with a large pear shaped Ruby suspended below. With the necklace are two versions of the signet styled ring composed of a channel set row of ruby baguettes, an oblong strip of onyx and two rows of pave set round brilliant cut diamonds. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

The lower level of the Solange Azagury-Partridge Bond Street store has cavernous private rooms such as this one with a single star-shaped display case surrounded by dots of light that appears to be floating in space. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

Yael Turns to the Cosmos for Inspiration

Three strands of diamond pave hug a 6.06-carat fire opal set in 18k rose gold.

Fine jewelry design house, Yael Designs, introduced its summer 2012 Lyra Collection during the JCK Luxury tradeshow (May 29 - May 31). 

Green tourmaline earringss with a total weight of  7.13 carats highlighted by diamond pave and white gold.

The collection showcases gemstones wrapped in elegant diamond threads set in 18k white and rose gold. The cocktail rings, earrings and pendants use tourmalines, morganites, rubellites and opals that bring plenty of color to the collection. Color and diamond threads overlapping large gems were two prominent themes at this year’s tradeshows in Las Vegas.

Diamond pave white gold sparkle as it surrounds an 8.87-carat opal.

The inspiration and the name for the collection came from the cosmos, more specifically, the small constellation named Lyra, which contains one the brightest stars in the sky.

Although the full collection made its first appearance at a tradeshow, individual pieces from the collection have been worn by celebrities—including ice skating champion Kristi Yamaguchi and actress Kerry Washington—and received a prestigious 2012 AGTA Spectrum Award.

Valentine’s Day Jewelry Gifts

The 1 million pink Prosperity Diamond

There is nothing like seeing the person you love smiling because of something you did for her. If you want to see that smile on Valentine’s Day, take some time to get her a gift that really expresses how you feel about your relationship. Below are a range of jewelry gifts from rarities to the easily accessible. What they share is that they are all guaranteed to make your loved one beam.

The $1 Million Pink ‘Prosperity’ Diamond

As rare as true love is the Argyle pink diamond. They are mined from a single source, the Argyle Mine in Western Australia. The mine has an estimated 10-year supply left of these pinks then they will be gone forever. The most exceptional and rare diamonds from the mine are sold at an annual tender held in major cities around the world. A select group of diamond dealers are invited in each city where they view the diamonds and place silent bids on the ones that catch their fancy. They learn months later if their bid, or bids, won. At the last tender, Leibish & Co. won six diamonds. One of those was a radiant cut 1.71-carat vivid pink diamond. A skilled diamond cutter removed 0.03 cts. (less than 1 percent) and the color changed to a fancy vivid purplish pink and the value dramatically increased. “We just touched it,” said Leibish Polnauer, the Israeli-based company’s founder and CEO. “But you have to touch it the right way.” If that’s not enough, the now 1.68-carat diamond has a number that is considered extraordinarily lucky in China. Thus, the Prosperity Diamond was born. The diamond is now mounted on a double halo platinum ring and complimented with 0.82 carats of diamonds that adorn the halos and shank, with additional pave set round brilliants on the side of the head. It is available for $1 million and can be purchased at http://www.fancydiamonds.net.

The Jewelry Timepiece

Vacheron Constantin, the world’s oldest watch manufacture, has added to its Kalla family with the Kalla Haute Couture à Pampilles. This couture timepiece revives the tradition of “secret” watches that enabled 19th century watch wearers to check time in an exquisitely discreet manner. Set with a combination of brilliant, princess and flame-cut diamonds, the precious stones conceal a diamond-paved dial. With the subtle motion of four delicate mobile strands, the dial of the Kalla Haute Couture à Pampilles reveals itself on the wrist. The clasp, bracelet and dial are all made of white gold. The bracelet is composed of two diamond-studded ribbons that close delicately on the wrist like a precious jewel. The mechanical movement with caliber 1005 is manually wounded. It retails for $735,000 and is available at authorized Vacheron Constantin retailers.

One-of-A-Kind

There isn’t a woman on earth who doesn’t dream about owning a one-of-a-kind piece of highly crafted and stylized jewelry. Alexandra Mor makes these dreams come true. An example is this 68-carat emerald-cut amethyst ring that’s set with Mor’s signature details of 1mm knife-edged wire and 1.40 carats of 1mm “floating” diamond melee. The platinum mount is set on a 1mm 18k yellow gold band. It is signed by the artist and is priced at $22,000. To purchase go to www.AlexandraMor.com. For any sales inquiries, contact Alon at Alon@alexandramor.com. To make an appointment to visit the New York-based firm, contact Laura@alexandramor.com.


Flowery Timepieces from France

The Swiss are the undisputed kings of watchmaking. However, across the border is the Doubs region of France where the country’s watchmaking industry is centered—often using the same people, technologies and techniques as their Swiss counterparts. One company from the region, Damoiselle D, specializes in ladies fashion watches. The company calls its creations jewelry watches. They feature elaborate, circular shapes that start at the dial and work their way outward along with the liberal use of precious materials and diamonds. The watches are adorned with eight petals meant to symbolize happiness, luck and prosperity The one pictured is from the company’s Rosa line and is made with pink gold with a green translucent “sun” design on the dial, made from enameling. The color symbolizes love, divine wisdom, beauty and immortality. It retails for $20,500 and is available at Place Vendome in Pasadena, Calif.

The Flower Pendant

It’s a classic look that when done well still excites. This delicate flower pendant, known as “Gossamer,” is made with fine natural colored diamond rose cut slices and burnt orange diamonds in the center. It was crafted by YNY Jewels, established in 2006, which focuses on creating a wearable, beautiful line of jewelry that showcases the company’s appreciation for color, design and quality. The Gossamer retails for $12,000. Contact YNY Jewels directly to get a name of a retailer at 212 302 3130 or go to www.ynyjewels.com.

Stackable Marquise Rings

It’s safe to say that anyone who ends all their written correspondences with the word “Love,” has an in depth understanding of the meaning of Valentine’s Day. The jewelry designer who goes by the name, JJ, creates refined, colorful jewelry made from a variety of gemstones matched with precious metals. Her company is JJ Number 8 (the good luck number). Her latest creation is the stackable Marquise Rings made with peach moonstone, orange carnelian, turquoise and of white topaz. The three rings pictured are the orange carnelian and 18k yellow gold ($2,360); the peach moonstone and 18k yellow gold ($2,150); and the turquoise and 18k yellow gold ($2,070). They can be purchased through the company’s website where you can also find retailers that sell the items.

Valentine’s Bead Bracelet

This bracelet is not only a symbol of love and a personal treasure, but it is intended to bring luck and joy to its owner, according to Montblanc. The talisman, made of shining silver beads on a black thread features a single red gold-colored heart. It’s designed to be worn daily. The use of two contrasting materials means that it can be matched to many different outfits and appeals to women who favor gold or silver shades. The Montblanc Valentine’s Bead Bracelets retails for $465 and are limited to 500 pieces with each piece numbered. It is available in Montblanc boutiques worldwide.

Double Heart Beat Black Beauty

With a deep black mother of pearl dial and diamonds in and outside the dial, the Double Heart Beat Black Beauty is the latest from the Frederique Constant Heart Beat collection of ladies watches. Two intertwined hearts form an aperture in the dial revealing the “heart beat” of the movement. The Heart Beat was developed in 1994 to show the mechanical nature of these Frederique Constant watches by having an aperture at the position of the balance wheel. And there’s the symbolism of the twin hearts that represent a shared love on Valentine’s Day. It retails for $3,995 and is available at the Wynn resort and casino in Las Vegas. However, if you can’t make it to the Wynn, the other Heart Beat watches are available at Frederique Constant boutiques worldwide as well as other authorized retailers.

Colorful Resin Creations

Angélique Knafo, creative director and designer for her namesake collection, Angelique de Paris, creates what she calls wearable art. All of her creations are made of resin and incorporates bright colors and intricate designs based on her broad background in art, her 13 years living in Paris and her world travels. For Valentine’s Day, she unveiled the JE'TAIME bracelets in five tonal compositions of mauves, pinks, aquas, caramel and silver--adorned with charms. It retails for $210. Go to www.AngeliqueDeParis.com to find a retailer near you.