Pomellato Begins Its Push on the Worldwide Stage

A little-known Italian jewelry company is charting a new path into the hearts and minds of the jewelry buying public. 

Pomellato, based in Milan, has been around since 1967 but not many people outside of Italy were familiar with the company unless they discovered it by accident or they are passionate enough about jewelry to seek them out. 

The company, which specializes in handmade gold jewelry with precious gems and whimsical designs, seemed to be content to making its pieces for a small audience of appreciate followers—but not anymore. 

The company has been appearing in all the right consumer magazines and its jewelry is being worn by all the right actresses in the U.S. In addition, it was featured last week in a smashing story by style and lifestyle writer, Lucia van der Post, for the U.K.-based Financial Times "How to Spend It" magazine.

However exciting all of this is, the company’s big thrust into the worldwide jewelry buying public is the hiring of red hot Tilda Swinton, fresh off her success as the lead in Io Sono L'Amore (I am Love), who won rave reviews as much for what she wore as for her acting, as its spokesperson.

Above is a picture of Swinton in a Pomellato ad. Below, she stars in a 30-second commercial for Pomellato.

A French Company Acquires Another Prestigious Italian Jewelry Brand

Tilda Swinton, a spokesperson for Pomellato.

Less than two years after French conglomerate LVMH acquired luxury Italian jewelry brand Bulgari; its French competitor, holding company Kering, finalized its acquisition of Italian jewelry brand Pomellato.

The agreement for Kering to purchase a majority stake in Pomellato was announced in April. On Thursday, Kering, formerly known as PPR, announced in a brief statement that the agreement received clearance from the antitrust authorities and has been finalized.

Pomellato was one of the few truly prestigious independent Italian jewelry brands left to acquire. The brand was founded by Pino Rabolini in Milan in 1967, pioneering the concept of ready-to-wear jewelry. The idea was that jewelry is not just a status symbol but an accessory to be worn and replaced at any time of the day. The current CEO, Andrea Morante, will remain in this position with the company.

Pomellato ranks among the top five European jewelers by sales, with 2012 revenues of €146 million ($190 million). It has a distinct style, an international following and an aura of exclusivity. The brand is known for its colorful rounded cabochon gems and its tactile forms. For example, pavé patterns are created with gemstones of various sizes and irregular forms. In recent years, the company was also known for its advertising partnership with actress Tilda Swinton, who appeared in company photographs and videos.

In 1995, Pomellato launched a second brand, Dodo, an accessible line of 18k gold charms in the shapes of animals. The name, after an extinct bird, was chosen as a way to exemplify the need to protect nature. The brand supports the Italian World Wildlife Fund, working to prevent the extinction of other animal species.

Pomellato’s distribution network includes 86 mono-brand stores (45 Pomellato, 41 Dodo) as well as approximately 600 independent points of sale around the world. More importantly for Pomellato and Kering is that there is plenty of room for growth. Pomellato has expressed an interest to extend its international distribution. Kering, with its immense size as an international player in the apparel and accessories markets, can fuel that growth.

Kering is present in more than 120 countries and generated revenues of €9.7 billion ($12.4 billion) in 2012. With the acquisition Pomellato finalized, the company now has a majority stake in 19 brands that include international luxury fashion brands Gucci, Bottega Veneta and Saint Laurent; French luxury jewelry brand, Boucheron; Chinese luxury jewelry brand, Qeelin; luxury Swiss watch brands, Girard-Perregaux and Jewn-Richard; and sports brand, Puma.

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Kering Strengthens its Focus On Luxury Jewelry and Watches

Tilda Swinton wearing colorful Pomellato rings. The Italian jeweler is owned by Kering.

French multinational holding company Kering (previously known as PPR) continues its transformation (at least three years in the making) into a luxury and lifestyle conglomerate with the recent announcement that it has reorganized most of its luxury brands into two divisions and appointed executives to lead those groups.

Albert Bensoussan, 55, a former LVMH executive, was named CEO of the “Luxury – Watches and Jewelry” division, which will house the brands Boucheron, Girard-Perregaux, JeanRichard, Pomellato, Dodo and Qeelin.

The last three brands (Italian jewelers Pomellato and Dodo; and Hong Kong based jeweler Qeelin) were purchased by Kering within the past two years and is evidence of its pursuit of luxury jewelry companies.

Meanwhile, Marco Bizzarri, 51, a Kering employee who most recently served as president and CEO of Bottega Veneta, was named CEO of the “Luxury – Couture & Leather Goods” division, which will be made up of Bottega Veneta, Saint Laurent, Alexander McQueen, Balenciaga, Brioni, Christopher Kane, McQ, Stella McCartney, Tomas Maier and Sergio Rossi.

Bizzarri remains president of Bottega Veneta until a new CEO is appointed.

Gucci will remain under the responsibility of Patrizio di Marco, chairman and CEO, who will remain under Pinault’s supervision.

Both appointments take effect in May. They will both report to François-Henri Pinault, Kering chairman and CEO.

“The new structure reflects the specific character of the businesses of the Group’s different brands, and will provide better responses to their particular needs, adapted to each brand’s stage of development,” Pinault said in the April 24 announcement. “The introduction of this structure is a logical stage in the formation of a more integrated group, to further accelerate the development of our brands while respecting the autonomy and individual identity of each of them.”

Bensoussan, Bizzarri and di Marco are all members of Kering’s executive committee.

Along with the new appointments there will be resignation. Alexis Babeau, managing director of Kering’s luxury division since 2011, said he had successfully fulfilled his mission and wanted to take his career in a new direction. Pinault credited him for the development of luxury brands first at Gucci Group and then at Kering.

“Alexis played a key role in identifying and implementing operational synergies between our brands, while maintaining the creative independence that makes each of them unique,” Pinault said.

In addition, Pinault said he will remain the chairman of the board at Saint Laurent. “Saint Laurent is at a pivotal moment in its history and reform as undisputed reference for Parisian elegance,” Pinault said. “Retaining its chairmanship ensures the preservation of the unique individuality and positioning of this historical French Couture House.”

Kering also has a “Sport & Lifestyle” division with the brands Puma, Volcom, Cobra, Electric and Tretorn.

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Kering Acquires Pomellato

Tilda Swinton, brand ambassador for Pomellato.

The rumors have been swirling for some time but now they are verified.  PPR, which will soon officially change its name to Kering, has acquired Pomellato, the Italianjewelry company that has both broad and growing appeal.

Kering will hold a majority stake in the Pomellato group and its CEO, Andrea Morante, will remain in this position with the company.

Pomellato, whose 2012 revenues reached €146 million ($190 million), is one of Europe’s major jewelry groups, with a strong international position. The company’s success is based on the personality and style of its creations with a blend of colors, stones and shapes as well as their fine Italian craftsmanship. The Pomellato group is a profitable and growing Italian business with two brands, Pomellato and Dodo. The first positioned within the fine jewelry segment and the latter within the accessiblejewelry segment. Its distribution network includes 86 mono-brand stores (45 Pomellato, 41 Dodo) as well as approximately 600 independent points of sale around the world. There is plenty of room for growth for this company and Kering said its expertise and resources in real estate, distribution, media and brand management will help in that area.

With this acquisition, Kering is extending and reinforcing its portfolio of luxury brands in the high growth jewelry market.

“Synonymous with Italian style, Pomellato and Dodo rank among the most beautiful and innovative jewelry brands in the world,” said François-Henri Pinault, chairman and CEO of Kering . “We have great ambitions for the Pomellato group, which, with access to our expertise and know-how, will be able to step up the pace of its growth and expand its geographic footprint while preserving the values that underpin its Italian identity.”

Andrea Morante, CEO of Pomellato, added: “Becoming global brands is no longer an option for Pomellato and Dodo; it is a necessity. With this consideration in mind, we have undertaken a lengthy review of our best strategic alternatives and reached the conclusion that joining Kering was far and away the most favorable course of action. First, we will instantly join one of the most prestigious groups in the world; second, we will have a unique opportunity to preserve and enhance the Pomellato and Dodo success stories on a global scale.”

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PPR To Become Kering

François-Henri Pinault, PPR chairman and CEO, poses with the company's new name and logo, which is expected to become official on June 18.

French holding group, PPR, said Friday that it will change its name and brand messaging to reflect its new identity as an international luxury, sports and lifestyle organization.

On June 18, subject to board approval, the new name for the company will be Kering (pronounced Caring). The Paris-based company said the new name reflects its culture of “taking care of our brands, people, stakeholders and the environment.” The suffix “ing” expresses the idea of movement, reflecting the diverse history of the 50-year-old company, which began as a trader of timber and construction materials. The stem “ker,” meaning home in Breton, refers to its origins in the Brittany region of France.

Since 2005, PPR has been undergoing a transformation from a conglomerate focused on primarily European distribution activities, to an international group focused on the apparel and accessories business across two fast growing segments that it defines as “Luxury” and “Sport & Lifestyle.” In a few months, the new group expects to leave the distribution sector completely, after disposing of Fnac and the remainder of online fashion retailer Redcats.

The company’s collection of brands include Gucci, Bottega Veneta, Saint Laurent, Alexander McQueen, Balenciaga, Brioni, Christopher Kane, Stella McCartney, Boucheron, Girard-Perregaux, Qeelin, Puma, Volcom, Cobra, Electric and Tretorn.

Laurent Claquin, head of PPR Americas, said the change in the company’s identity is a natural step in the group’s transformation.

“We are marking a transition from a conglomerate to an integrated group,” he said. “We are in the business of fashion. We are also part of the same group (as) a way to signify how we do our business with our brands and customers.”

Claquin refused to comment on published reports that the company is in the final stages of acquiring luxury Italian jewelry brand, Pomellato. “It is not the subject of the day,” he said.

Accompanying the new name are new symbols for the company and an international branding strategy over multiple platforms that it emphasis the creativity of its brands. A new video, website and advertising campaign and supporting items are among the ways the company intends to promote its new image. Digital media will be a centerpiece of the campaign. Follow this link to view the company's new video.

As part of the strategy, the company adopted a new symbol, the “untamed” owl, and even a company signature that reads: “empowering imagination.”

The owl is drawn from a single line, like a quick sketch, a doodle even, with outstretched wings and its face framed in a heart. This simple drawing expresses far reaching values, according to the company, from foresight, wisdom and intelligence to caring and respect.

Claquin emphasized that the new campaign is geared toward the B-2-B community and not the general public. “We don’t communicate through a general public,” he said. “We don’t want to be stronger than our brands but we do communicate to our target populations.”

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From the Artistic to the Mechanical, Ladies Watches at SIHH 2014

Ballon Bleu De Cartier Floral-Marquetry Parrot Watch

After a detour into mechanical movements and masculine looks last year, the 16 luxury brands at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) for 2014 returned largely to watches for ladies that highlight artistry and jewelry. That’s not to say there aren’t many mechanical timepieces on offer at this year’s show. What there is, however, is more variety than in previous years. The new releases this year give women have a choice between pure beauty, high-end mechanics or both.

Ballon Bleu De Cartier Floral-Marquetry Parrot Watch
This year, Cartier has taken up what it says is a new craft in watchmaking: floral marquetry, along with jewelry, to create a colorful parrot on the dial of this watch with a blue and the orangey-yellow plumage, a deep black of the beak, an emerald green eye and sparkling white diamonds in the background of the dial and on the crown on the 18k white and pink gold watch.

To create this dial (top image), flower petals were gathered and colored. Then each petal was stuck onto a thin piece of wood and cut into the desired shape using a marquetry saw. The material contrasts with the shine of the onyx beak and emerald eye. The grey and black feathers surrounding the eye were created with miniature painting.

The 42mm watch is powered by the Cartier Caliber 049. It is available in a limited edition of 20 pieces.

Parmigiani: The Tonda Pomellato
This watch collection is a partnership between Swiss luxury watch brand Parmigiani and Italian luxury jewelry brand Pomellato. Three of the four watches in this line are based on Pomellato’s “Arabesque” collection, characterized by an openwork lace-like design in rose gold, which gives way to transparent elements with colored gems.

The Arabesque style of the Pomellato ring that provided the inspiration of the watch design.

The Arabesque pattern was reproduced using two distinct treatments. First, the dial received an opaline surface treatment. Then the arabesque pattern is superimpose through a silkscreen printed transfer which covers the opaline. A second sand-blasting treatment is then applied, which adheres to all the surfaces not covered by the transfer. The result is the pattern, which has the appearance of a shadow, that seems to be flush with the dial. The watch is powered by the automatic Caliber PF701. The 39mm 18k rose gold case set with 28 round diamonds along the bezel.

Piaget Rose Passion
This is a classic “secret watch” in 18k white gold set with a total of 707 brilliant-cut diamonds and one pink sapphire. The timepiece comes with a white satin strap. The petite dial of the watch can be hidden within the rose-shaped bejeweled watch case.

Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Fabuleux Ornements – Ottoman architecture
This piece is part of a four-watch collection that showcases several of the brand’s skeletonization and engraving skills and reflects a different culture and moment in history. For this piece Ottoman architecture was the inspiration. A pink-gold lattice motif is perched on a mother-of-pearl base. The gold grid-work in scrolling patterns is studded with half-pearl beads.

However, this watch is more than just an elaborately sculptured pretty face. It is powered by the in-house manufactured and engraved Caliber 1003SQ. The hand-wound movement with 117 components is exceptionally petite, just 21.1mm in diameter and 1.64mm thick.

Richard Mille Tourbillon Natalie Portman
This timepiece is created in partnership with Oscar award-winning actress Natalie Portman, who is also a worldwide partner of the brand. The aesthetic focus of this watch is a diamond-encrusted stylized spider that appears trapped in a tonneau-shaped, diamond-covered case. The abdomen of the spider supports the bridges of the tourbillon (made of grade 5 titanium), and its legs support the two winding barrels. The RM19-01 manual winding tourbillon caliber is assembled around a black rhodium-plated, 18k white gold black sapphire set baseplate, a first for Richard Mille. It is available in a limited edition of 20 pieces. It will be worn by the actress at events worldwide.

Ralph Lauren Stirrup
The stirrup name refers to the shape of the case. This year the designer came up with two new medium-sized editions of the watch line—in steel and the one pictured in 18k gold with the case and chain-link bracelet covered in more than 1,900 diamonds in 20 different sizes. It is powered by the caliber RL057 quartz movement.

Lady Arpels Zodiac Taurus Extraordinary Dial
This is one of a collection of 12 watches that replicate the Western Zodiac signs created by Van Cleef & Arpels. The colorful dial depicts a white gold and diamond pavé Taurus the Bull on top of translucent enamel in the shape of leaves with blue flowers made of lapis lazuli with white-gold stars with a small diamond in the center of each. The 38mm white gold case has a bezel set with round diamonds. It has a hand-wound mechanical movement and is available in a limited edition of 22 pieces.

Ballon Blanc de Cartier
This jewelry watch has a mother-of-pearl flinqué (hand-engraved) dial and blue-steel, sword-shaped hands. A single round diamond at 4 o’clock stands out among other smaller round diamonds that encircle the bezel. The 24 mm 18k pink gold case is finished with a bracelet consisting of five rows of smooth 18k pink gold beads.

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