‘Brilliant: Cartier in the 20th Century’ At Denver Art Museum

Flamingo brooch worn by Duchess of Windsor. Cartier Paris, special order, 1940. Platinum, diamonds, emeralds, rubies, sapphires, citrine; Cartier Collection. Photo credit: Nils Herrmann

It was the most creative time for what is arguably the supreme international jeweler of the 20th Century.

Necklace worn by Elizabeth Taylor. Cartier Paris, 1951, altered in 1953. Platinum, diamonds, rubies. Cartier Collection. Photo credit: Vincent Wulveryck

The Denver Art Museum is the sole venue worldwide for “Brilliant: Cartier in the 20th Century,” on view till March 15, 2015. The exhibition contains more than 250 pieces of jewelry, timepieces and precious objects produced between 1900 and 1975. Most of the pieces are from the jeweler’s “Cartier Collection,” with items on loan from other museums and private collections.

Tiara worn by Mrs. Townsend Cartier. Cartier Paris, special order, 1905. Platinum, diamonds; Height at center 9.8 cm. Provenance: Mary Scott Townsend and Mrs. Donald McElroy. Cartier Collection. Photo credit: Vincent Wulveryck

Curated by Margaret Young-Sánchez, curator of the museum’s Frederick and Jan Mayer Center, the exhibition celebrates and chronicles the creative rise of Cartier in the 20th Century and its place in the dynamic history of the period.

Necklace worn by Countess of Granard. Cartier London, special order, 1932. Platinum, diamonds, emerald; Cartier Collection.  Photo credit: Vincent Wulveryck

It was a time when old world royalty was being replaced by democratically elected governments and when captains of industry, world class entertainers and a handful of politicians stood on equal terms with the old aristocracy. Cartier stood at the intersection of this cultural change and took a leadership role, creating jewelry, timepieces and objects of art for some of the most important and famous people of the period. The exhibition has items belonging to the Duchess of Windsor, Princess Grace of Monaco, Dame Elizabeth Taylor, Franklin D. Roosevelt and Mexican film star María Félix.

Engagement Ring worn by Princess Grace of Monaco.Cartier Paris, 1956. Platinum, one 10.48-carat emerald-cut diamond, two baguette- cut diamonds. Palais Princier de Monaco 

This is an exhibition for those who cherish Cartier’s most creative period when it was a family-owned firm (family members sold the business in 1964).

Crocodile Necklace made for Maria Félix.Cartier Paris, special order, 1975. Gold, diamonds, emeralds, rubies; Cartier Collection. Photo credit: Nick Welsh

“The evolution of Cartier takes us on a journey through 20th century history, from the era of the last czars in Russia to the Roaring ’20s in America to the onset of Hollywood glamour as we know it,” said Christoph Heinrich, director of the Frederick and Jan Mayer Center. “Focusing in on the creativity and pioneering vision of the Cartier brothers and their designers, visitors will walk away not only in awe of Cartier’s stunning works of art but also aware of the drastic cultural shifts that took place throughout the history of the maison.”

Laurel Leaf Tiara owned by Marie Bonaparte. Cartier Paris, 1907. Platinum and diamonds. Qatar Museums Authority.

Cartier’s international clientele reflected the rapid changes of the 20th Century. The jeweler’s rise took place in the context of an increasingly cosmopolitan cultural scene and aligned with international social, political and economic trends. The exhibition will present a selection of themes that span time periods and styles to display the influence and innovation of the jeweler.  

Tiger Lorgnette owned by Duchess of Windsor. Cartier Paris, special order, 1954. Gold, enamel, emeralds, glass. Cartier Collection.  Photo credit: Nick Welsh

Exhibition themes include: 

* Aristocracy and Aspiration: Focusing on objects from 1900–1918, this section features diamond, sapphire, rock crystal and pearl jewelry and enameled decorative items that showcase a refined and elegant aesthetic embraced by European royalty and aristocrats—and the wealthy Americans who aspired to join their social class. 

Stomacher Brooch, Cartier Paris, special order, 1907. Platinum, sapphires, diamonds. Cartier Collection. Photo credit: Nick Welsh

* Art Deco: New Outlook: Cartier was a leader in the Art Deco movement of the 1910s to 1920s that highlighted a bold look with a new emphasis on color and geometry. The firm used new materials in this era such as jade, coral and black onyx.

Necklace created for Sir Bhupindra Singh, Maharaja of Patiala. Cartier Paris, special order, 1928. Platinum, diamonds, zirconias, topazes, synthetic rubies, smoky quartz, citrine; Cartier Collection. Photo credit: Nick Welsh  

* Art Deco: Foreign Fascination: After World War I, Cartier created original designs that incorporated exotic styles and materials including imported carved jade, lacquer and faience. This style culminated in the colorful tutti-frutti jewelry and sculptural mystery clocks. 

Tutti Frutti Strap Bracelet worn by Mrs. Cole Porter.Cartier Paris, 1929. Platinum, diamonds, sapphires, emeralds, rubies. Cartier Collection.  Photo credit: Nick Welsh

* Masculine View: Louis Cartier is credited with inventing the modern men’s wristwatch. The exhibition includes numerous models and styles, in addition to elegant and complex pocket watches, cuff links, pocket items, cocktail and desk accessories, and inscribed cigarette cases. Historic events commemorated by inscribed gift items made by Cartier are featured in the exhibition. 

Santos wristwatch, Cartier Paris, 1915. Gold, sapphire, leather strap. Cartier Collection. Photo credit: Nick Welsh

* Art of Smoking: Textured, enameled and jeweled cigar cutters, cigarette cases and lighters from 1907 through the 1940s. 

Five-Dial Clock owned by Franklin D. Roosevelt.Cartier New York, 1930. Ebonite, silver, nephrite, enamel, clock movement. Private collection. 

* Age of Glamour: Designs from the 1930s to 1960s preferred by celebrities and “Café Society.”  

Set of Three Clip Brooches worn by Princess Grace of Monaco. Cartier Paris, 1955. Platinum, brilliant- and baguette-cut diamonds, three cabochon rubies weighing approximately 49 carats. Palais Princier de Monaco.  

More photographs from the exhibition can be viewed by following this link. 

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Queen Elizabeth Wears Tiara and Diamonds at French State Dinner

Queen Elizabeth II with French President Francois Hollande (left)
and her husband Prince Philip.

French President Francois Hollande honored Queen Elizabeth II with a state dinner Friday reportedly attended by seven monarchs and 10 presidents to commemorate the 70th Anniversary of D-Day. The jewelry worn by the queen at the historic event was appropriate for the grand occasion and nearly as compelling as her words in the speech she gave, which were described by London’s Daily Mail as “forceful and personal.” 

Consulting with Buckingham Palace Sunday and verifying that information with two of several blogs that follows the queen’s jewelry preferences, “From Her Majesty’s Jewel Vault,” “The Court Jeweller,” as well as The Royal Collection Trust website and Wikipedia, I was able to get a near complete picture of what she wore. 

Described by a Buckingham Palace spokeswoman as “Queen Mary’s Tiara,” I was able to learn that what she wore was “The Girls of Great Britain and Ireland Tiara,” which was a wedding present to Queen Mary in 1893 from a committee of girls representing Great Britain and Ireland. It is one of the current queen’s favorites, according to several sources. 

The queen also wore the “Coronation Necklace” and the matching “Coronation Earrings.” These are substantial diamond jewelry pieces with little adornment. A total of 26 large diamonds make up the necklace with the largest diamond suspended as a pendant. Matching diamond drop earrings make up the set. 

Thanks to From Her Majesty’s Jewel Vault,” I was able to identify the brooch on her red sash as the Queen Mother’s ruby and diamond bouquet brooch.

The queen also wore a diamond bracelet, rings and a watch, according to a Buckingham Palace spokeswoman. 

In case you're interested, below is a transcript of the speech given by the queen at the dinner:

Monsieur le President, The Duke of Edinburgh and I are delighted to be here this evening on this, our fifth State Visit to your country.

Our first visit together overseas was to France, in 1948: shortly after our wedding, and four years after D-Day.

I recall my own happiness, discovering this beautiful country for myself and for the first time, and developing my own great affection for the French people.

Wherever two or more of our countrymen gather, there one finds the unique mixture of friendship, good-humoured rivalry and admiration that is the essence of Anglo-French relations.

But tonight, stirred by the day’s commemorations, we are also filled with other emotions:

With sorrow and regret, remembering the loss of so many fine young soldiers, sailors and airmen;

With pride, at the sheer courage of the men who stormed those beaches, embodied in the veterans among us;

And with thankfulness, knowing that today our nations are free and sovereign because allied forces liberated this continent from occupation and tyranny.

Knitted together by common experiences of struggle, sacrifice and reconciliation, we remember those times in a way that strengthens unity and understanding between us.

In that spirit, I venture three observations:

The first is that the true measure of all our actions is how long the good in them lasts.

Each year has compounded in Europe the benefits of our victory in the Second World War, since it enabled our subsequent successes and our achievements. Seen in that light, those heroic deeds will stand out as much in 700 years as they do after 70.

In an age of instant news and instantaneous judgment, it reminds us that we should weigh our actions not by immediate acclaim, but by their benefit for future generations.

This leads me to my second observation, which is that everything we do, we do for the young.

Since my last State Visit I have had the joy of becoming a great-grandmother.

The hopes and innate potential of young people are the same in all nations and on all continents.

The decisions we make should always be designed to enlarge their horizons and enrich their future, from caring for our environment to preventing conflict.

Our peace and prosperity can never be taken for granted and must constantly be tended, so that never again do we have cause to build monuments to our fallen youth.

My third observation is that our two nations, Britain and France, have a particular role to play in this effort.

We are two of the trustees of international peace and security, and we are both ready and equipped to aid those threatened by poverty or conflict.

We are famously proud of that which is particular to each of our peoples, and rejoice in our cultural differences.

But there is also great inspiration to be found in what we represent together:

Two democracies who have faced grave perils and emerged stronger together.

And two of the world’s most successful economies, working together on the technologies of the future, and making a vast contribution to the development of other nations.

All this rests on the efforts of thousands of people who have made the Channel not a dividing line but a trait d’union.

It gives immense confidence in the future of relations between us.

Monsieur le President, Ladies and Gentlemen, I pay tribute to the nation of France, as Kipling wrote: 

“First to follow Truth and last to leave old Truths behind – France, beloved of every soul that loves its fellow-kind!”

And I ask you to join me in a toast to the French Republic, to the President and to the people of France.

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