Intricate and Inspired High-Karat Gold Jewelry from Alchemic Synthesis

Greek Tsavorite Necklace. 22K gold, tsavorites, 1st century Roman loop-in-loop chain.

One of the bright spots of the recent Buyers Market of American Craft show was meeting Cynthia Alderdice and Lois Mansfield, who co-own and operate Alchemic Synthesis Studio in Annapolis, Md. The BMAC show (held February 17-21) was their first time attempting to appeal to a wholesale audience. Hopefully, it won’t be their last.

The collaborating artists design one of a kind and limited edition pieces in 22K and 24K gold and fine silver. Often the pieces are embellished with gemstones, pearls and enamels. Their work embraces many cultures and employs several techniques. These veteran goldsmiths and jewelry designers are especially skilled in the ancient Etruscan technique of creating granulated 22k gold. They have years of experience in varied art media such as painting, printmaking, sculpture, enameling and, of course, metalsmithing. It is evident that they love their work and love working together.

Their commitment to technique, use of high quality materials, their intellect and passion, and their inspiration from cultures around the world is evident in their designs. They combine materials and techniques that result in layered pieces of varying textures and intricate details.

For example, their Greek tsavorite necklace (top picture) employs no fewer than four separate techniques, from the pin-cushion-like center piece to the rope-like outer edge on the larger centerpiece; to the more circular pin design on below. The clasp for the chain unlike the rest of the jewelry has a smooth finish. The finishing golden touch is the loop-in-loop chain (yes they make own multiple-loop chains), that are as intricate in technique and design as the rest of the piece. Of course, the finale is the two tsavorite gemstones. 

Awakening, tooled 22K gold, cloisonné enamel, patterned fine silver, faceted tourmaline stone, 2nd century AD Roman hand-woven 22K gold and fine silver hammered pinched loop chain.

Another example is, Awakening (above), a pendant that combines cloisonné enamel technique with a design inspired by Japanese art, gold granulation technique, patterned fine silver and a and 22K gold and silver chain hand-woven using a 1st Century Roman technique. There are additional details on the back of the pendant that I'm unable to show.

And they do it all with a smile.

Colorful Enamel Jewelry from Magick

24k gold cloisonné enameling set in 18k yellow gold with garnets and diamonds (2 ct.).

Color has been a trend in the jewelry industry in recent years, primarily because of the economic recession as designers and manufacturers look to embellish their jewelry with colored gemstones and less expensive colored diamonds. However, very few have delved into the painstaking work of enamel jewelry that the company, Magick, has been doing for more than 25 years.

Without trying, the Fairfield, Calif.-based company is a trend-setter in the use of color, design techniques and materials. The company, founded by Denmark native Falcher Fusager,  specializes in jewelry created through the cloisonné technique of enameling, he said during the Buyers Market of American Craft show, held February 17-21 in Philadelphia. This is done by cutting and bending 24k gold wires to create the outline of a design. Then each cell (cloison in French) within the wires is filled with different colors of enamel to create a shaded effect. The color is built up over many thin layers—with each layer fired in a 1,450 degree Fahrenheit kiln until it reaches its melting point and fuses to the previous layer. The resulting gem is cut, polished and set in gold.

24k gold cloisonné enameling set in 14k yellow gold.

Often embellished with diamonds and gemstones, the results are a full range of jewelry with a striking appearance. The colors are rich and vibrant, often in circular or curved patterns. Even though there is separation between the cells with wires, in many cases the colors seem to blend into one another. There is contrast and separation of colors. It has the playfulness of a kaleidoscopic effect but with a more thoughtful and deliberate purpose.