Old is New Again as F.P. Journe Recreates Groundbreaking Tourbillon Watch

F.P. Journe Historical Anniversary Tourbillon.

François-Paul Journe was in Manhattan recently as part of a world tour celebrating his 30 years as the founder and head watchmaker of F.P. Journe. He also was in the city to introduce the Historical Anniversary Tourbillon, a recreation of the watch that began his career as an independent watchmaker.

The tourbillon movement

Journe was barely in his 20s when he set about making a complex watch entirely by hand. It took him five years to create the tourbillon pocket watch, which launched F.P. Journe. Thirty years later the independent watch company based in Geneva, Switzerland, is now an international brand with nine boutiques around the world, including Manhattan, where Journe made his appearance.

The original pocket watch created by François-Paul Journe 30 years ago.

The anniversary wristwatch, limited to 99 pieces, is a reinterpretation of the original pocket watch, using some of the same materials, such as a guilloche silver case enhanced by two gold bezels in rose gold 4N.

The transparent sapphire back reveals the tourbillon movement of classic construction made in grained and gilded brass, identical to the original of 1983. Two parallel barrels distribute energy to a wheels train, arranged in the axis of the watch, which runs the tourbillon revolving in a minute. The lateral pallet escapement, which is more compatible with a wristwatch, replaces the detent escapement of the original, and the winding and time setting with a key have now been replaced by the 3 o’clock crown.

Made today in the company’s Geneva workshops, the movement features high quality components with modern polishing, beveling and finishing techniques that weren’t available 30 years ago. It encompasses a sobriety and a nobility of first generation tourbillon movements.

The movement is protected by a silver guilloche case back cover. The dial in grained silver is engraved with filled roman numerals and a steel hour circle, identical to the original tourbillon of 1983. The hours are indicated by blued steel Abraham-Louis Breguet hands, identical to those of the original pocket watch.

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes website.

32-Ct. Fancy Vivid Yellow Diamond May Fetch $8M at Christie's Auction

The Vivid Yellow, a rare, highly saturated, fancy vivid yellow diamond of 32.77 carats will be the star lot of Christie’s New York Magnificent Jewels sale on October 18. The golden yellow hue of this large pear-shaped stone is so intense and so deep that the Gemological Institute of America ranks it among the rarest of gemstones in its class. The stone is expected to achieve in excess of $6 million.

“The Vivid Yellow literally blazes with color, unlike any yellow diamond I’ve ever seen,” said Rahul Kadakia, head of Jewelry for Christie’s Americas. “In the world of diamonds, a naturally colored stone of this incredible color and size represents a freak occurrence—an extremely rare geological phenomenon.”

Yellow diamonds gain their color from nitrogen replacing carbon atoms in the diamond’s structure. Where there is less nitrogen present, the resulting stone may be light or “faint” in color. In the case of The Vivid Yellow, the stone’s atoms absorbed an unusually high level of aggregated nitrogen, giving it a saturated golden yellow color.

The uncommon nature of this particular diamond’s color intensity has been reconfirmed by the GIA, whose gem laboratory is devoted to the grading and identifying of important diamonds. In its grading report for the stone, the GIA classifies the diamond as “Fancy Vivid”—the highest saturation one can find in a colored diamond. Only about one in 10 million diamonds possesses a color pure enough to qualify as fancy vivid.

In addition, the report notes that the original rough stone from which The Vivid Yellow was cut must have possessed an extraordinary intensity and thus required no modified faceting in the cutting process to help bring out the color.

“Large fancy vivid yellow diamonds such as this pear shape are rarely encountered at the GIA and come to market very infrequently,” the report states.

The unmounted diamond, which is about the size and shape of a guitar pick, will be part of Christie’s first major jewelry sale of the fall 2011 auction season, slated to take place October 18, at Christie’s Rockefeller Plaza flagship in New York. The international auction house said the stone has the potential to surpass the per-carat price of $203,000 achieved for The Golden Drop, a pear-shaped yellow diamond of 18.49 carats sold in 1990 at Christie’s London.

Christie’s has arranged a global preview tour of the diamond prior to its sale. The diamond will be on view at the following dates and locations:

Christie’s London, August 30 and 31

Christie’s Geneva, September 12 and 13

Christie’s Hong Kong, September 15 and 16

Christie’s New York, October 14 through 17

Rare Patek Philippe Watches to Star in Antiquorum's September Auction

Patek Philippe Ref. 2499

Two Patek Philippe watches will share the starring role at the upcoming "Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces" auction by Antiquorum Auctioneers.

The September 14 event at the watch auctioneer’s New York headquarters will be led by a Patek Philippe ref. 2499 and an extremely rare and probably unique Patek Philippe Split-Second Chronograph Ref. 1436. In addition, the auction will feature two Rolexes, two Breguets, an Audemars Piguet and two more Pateks, among a diverse collection of modern and vintage timepieces. Previews will be held in Hong Kong, Shanghai, Singapore and New York.

The highlight of the sale is the Patek Philippe Ref. 2499, third series (top picture), originally from the collection of professor Thomas Engel. Made in 1976, this is an exceptional and extremely rare, 18k yellow gold wristwatch with round button chronograph, perpetual calendar, and moon phases. Auction estimate is $300,000 - $500,000.

Patek Philippe Ref. 1436

In addition, there's the Patek Philippe Ref. 1436 (above) made in 1960 and sold by Tiffany & Co. the following year. Antiquorum said the watch has remained in pristine, virtually new condition. The model, probably unique, is an 18k yellow gold wristwatch with transitional dial, square button co-axial split-seconds chronograph and tachometer. Auction estimate is $200,000 - $300,000

Other auction highlights include:

A Rolex Daytona, Ref. 6241 retailed by Tiffany & Co. Made circa 1967, it is a very fine and rare, water-resistant, 14k yellow gold wristwatch with round button chronograph, and anti-reflective black bezel. It is accompanied by a Rolex service invoice and guarantee dated June 21, 2011. Estimate: $40,000 - $60,000

A set of two Breguet Souscription watches made in the late 1990s. The set consists of: A platinum minute-repeating wristwatch with perpetual calendar, phases and age of the moon and leap year indication; and a platinum self-winding pocket watch with 45 hour power reserve indication, instantaneous calendar, phases and age of the moon. This set is accompanied by a fitted wooden winding box, 30 cm platinum chain, platinum magnifying glass and two platinum tools. Estimate: $120,000 - $140,000

A Patek Philippe Ref. 3971 very fine, astronomic, 18k yellow gold wristwatch with round button chronograph features a perpetual calendar and moon phases. It was made in 1989. Estimate: $80,000 - $100,000

 An International Watch Company B-Uhr World War II German Air Force (Luftwaffe), Ref. 431, request No. FL 23883. Made in 1940 for the German Air Force, it is an oversized, center seconds, anti-magnetic, anti-corrosion stainless steel military pilot's wristwatch with indirect seconds and a very long aviator's leather strap. This very rare and sought-after timepiece is accompanied by the certificate of origin and an IWC service warranty dated April 4th, 1989. Estimate: $40,000 - $60,000

A Rolex Submariner Ref. 6538 James Bond, "Big Crown" with gilt dial, made in 1956. This very rare, center seconds, self-winding, water resistant, stainless steel diver's wristwatch with a stainless steel Rolex expandable rivet bracelet is offered with original box, instructions and pamphlets with anchor, guarantee, pocket calendar, and service receipt dated July 21, 1981. Estimate: $35,000 - $65,000

A limited edition Patek Philippe Ref. 5038 self-winding 18k white gold wristwatch. It was made in a limited edition of 500 in 1996 and features a perpetual calendar and moon phases. It is offered with the original winding box, setting pin, limited series certificate, booklets and certificate of origin within a leather wallet. Estimate: $35,000 - $55,000

An Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “City of Sails,” Ref. 25979 made in a limited edition of 50 for the 30th Anniversary of the Royal Oak in 2003. It is dedicated to the "Alinghi" team, winner of the America's Cup in 2003. Estimate: $40,000 - $60,000

Kim Kardashian, Kanye West Tweet Matching Gold Jewelry

Kim Kardashian and Kanye West spent the weekend in New York sporting giant gold cuffs and bracelets.

Kardashian tweeted photos of the jewelry they wore at a restaurant. While they both share a taste for large yellow gold pieces West seems to lean toward more elaborate designs while Kardashian prefers a shiny, sleek look.

In the two tweeted photos by Kardashian, they are clinking champaign glasses at a restaurant table and posed with all of their bracelets with the caption, “His & Hers.”

The couple was reportedly spotted at The Book of Mormon play on Broadway.

Please join the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page.

Glashütte Original Uses $35 Million Mansion To Introduce Ladies Watch Collection

The Waterfall Mansion in New York was the setting for the Glashütte Original unveiling of the Pavonina Collection. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

German watch manufacturer Glashütte Original presented its Pavonina Collection of ladies watches during a 1920’s theme party at the Waterfall Mansion in New York City.

Cushion-shaped 18k red gold case and white mother-of-pearl dial and guilloche finished. The settings and date window enhanced with red gold; rhodium and red gold plated feuille hands. 18k red gold metal bracelet design mirrors the cushion shape of the case.

A total of 20 new models of the watch line were presented in an exhibit setting on the second and third floors of the townhouse mansion, which has a listing price of $35 million. The multi-story waterfall, the signature highlight of the building on New York’s Upper East Side, was backlit in the Pavonina color of “royal purple” with the design theme of petals containing the names of the guests in attendance.

The Waterfall Mansion signature waterfall backlit with the "Royal Purple" and petal display of the Pavonina Collection. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

Dieter Pachner, Glashütte Original Global VP of Sales, explained that the cushion-shaped case design of the watches is the same design of popular ladies watches in the 1920s. The period is important for women as time of liberation and independence from the constraints of society, he said. The case comes in stainless steel, 18k red gold, and in a stainless steel and red gold combination.

Cushion-shaped stainless steel case with a dial made of galvanized ruthenium with guilloche finish; set with 12 diamonds. Settings and date window enhanced with red gold; rhodium and white gold plated feuille hands. Anthracite satin strap attached to lugs set with 42 diamonds.

As part of the 1920s theme of the event, several rooms contained portraits of women pioneers from the 20th Century and furnishings represented the period. One case contained vintage Glashütte Original ladies watches.

One of the Glashütte Original's 1920s-era watches on display. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

The dials for the quartz-powered watches were created in house in a range of designs that include mother of pearl and diamond motifs. The stainless steel models are offered with dials in either galvanized silver or ruthenium (a platinum group metal); with cabochon or diamond indexes as hour markers. bi-color models are available in mother of pearl or galvanized ruthenium dials. There are other options.

18k red gold case, galvanized black dial with guilloche finish and 12 diamonds as hour markers. Settings and date window enhanced with red gold; rhodium and red gold plated feuille hands. Fine black Louisiana alligator bracelet attached to flexible lugs set with 42 diamonds.

The collection also includes several choices of metal bracelets and colorful satin straps along with a “quick-change” pin that makes it easy to replace straps and bracelets. The metal bracelets are available in stainless steel, red gold and bi-color versions—the latter with alternating stainless steel and red gold links. The satin straps are offered in petrol green, violet or rich anthracite, or high-gloss patent leather in mocca brown and violet.

A couple of the new watches on display. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

 
Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes Website.

Cushion-shaped 18k red gold case and white enamel dial set with 98 diamonds. The settings and date window are enhanced with red gold; rhodium and red gold plated feuille hands. Violet satin strap nattached to lug decorated with 21 diamonds.

Stephen S. Palmer Patek Philippe Grand Complication May Fetch $1.5 Million

Christie’s New York said it will offer the earliest and most significant example of a Patek Philippe grand complication as the highlight of its New York Important Watches auction on June 11. It is estimated to fetch $1 to $1.5 million.

The Stephen S. Palmer Patek Philippe Grand Complication No. 97912 is a minute repeating perpetual calendar split-seconds chronograph clockwatch with grande and petite sonnerie and moon phases, manufactured in 1898. It has never before seen in public, and it is the first time ever on the auction block.

Until the appearance of the Palmer watch, it was broadly accepted that Patek Philippe did not make its first Grand Complication until 1910 and that the second ever made was reserved before World War I for James W. Packard in 1916, Christie’s explained.

Purchased on Oct. 3, 1900, for 6,500 Swiss francs by Stephen S. Palmer, the discovery of this watch serves as a “spectacular addition to scholarship surrounding Patek Philippe and Grand Complications in general,” Christie’s said in a statement. “Adding to its rarity, it is the only example known to have been cased in pink gold whereas all following pieces were cased in yellow gold according to the style of the early 20th century.”

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes Website.

Bespoke Titanium Patek Philippe’s Sky Moon Tourbillon Could Fetch $1.5 Million

Patek Philippe Ref 5001T Sky Moon Tourbillon

A unique collection of watches that includes five bespoke Patek Philippe references made in titanium will be part of Sotheby’s New York Important Watches auction on June 10. The collection of vintage and modern timepieces is led by the Patek Philippe Ref 5001T Sky Moon Tourbillon, a previously undocumented reference and the only known example of Patek Philippe’s Sky Moon Tourbillon in titanium. Its estimate is $1 - $1.5 million.

The double dialed wristwatch has 12 complications including tourbillon, perpetual calendar, retrograde date, sky chart, moon-phases, orbit display, sidereal time and minute repeating on cathedral gongs, made circa 2002. In addition to the lightweight metal, the watch is further distinguished by its basket weave motif, repeated on the bezel and the dial where the standard Sky Moon Tourbillon normally features the firm’s signature Calatrava crosses, as well as unabbreviated cardinal points on the star chart.

The Patek Philippe titanium timepieces are part of a private collection of 12 watches that includes additional references by Patek Philippe that have remained unknown to collectors, as well as unique pieces incorporating rare materials and designs beyond titanium. The timepieces have a total estimate of more than $3 million.

Patek Philippe Ref 5033T, titanium automatic annual calendar
minute repeating wristwatch.

In addition to the Ref 5001T, highlights of the previously unknown titanium wristwatches by Patek Philippe include: the Ref 5033T, a titanium automatic annual calendar minute repeating wristwatch made in 2003 (estimate est. $400,000 - $600,000); and the Ref 5102T Celestial, a titanium automatic astronomical wristwatch with sky chart, phases and position of the moon and time of Meridian passage of Sirius and the moon, made in 2003 (estimate. $200 $300,000).

Until this auction, there were only four known watches in titanium made by Patek Philippe.

“When first learning about this collection, it was almost impossible to conceive of so many important yet unknown pieces from Patek Philippe,” Daryn Schnipper, chairman of Sotheby’s Watch & Clock Department, said in a statement. “The five titanium watches are an absolute revelation. This group is a testament to the influence and ultimate connoisseurship of its collector, who had the foresight to customize these references in discreet yet significant ways.”

Patek Philippe 1923 Officier

Another star of the private collection is the Patek Philippe 1923 Officier, which Sotheby’s said is one of the most important wristwatches produced by the firm. The yellow gold single button split-seconds chronograph originally sold on October 13, 1923, making it the earliest known split-seconds chronograph produced by the firm. It is the only split-seconds chronograph by Patek Philippe to feature a white enamel dial. Its estimate is $800,000 - $1.2 million.

Patek Philippe Ref 5103P platinum automatic minute repeating semi-skeletonized perpetual calendar wristwatch with retrograde date, moon phases and leap year indication.

Another previously undocumented Patek Philippe is the Ref 5103P platinum automatic minute repeating semi-skeletonized perpetual calendar wristwatch with retrograde date, moon phases and leap year indication made in 2004. The watch has bespoke engraving on its movement plates as well as a unique teardrop pattern on its side. Its estimate is $500,000 - $700,000.

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes website.