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marylin monroe
Showing posts with label Seiko Watch Corp.. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Seiko Watch Corp.. Show all posts

Seiko Looks Back to the Future

Seiko officials at Baselworld press conference.

BASEL, Switzerland - Whether it was a sign of defiance, solidarity or necessity it’s difficult to say. But all 12 Japanese companies scheduled to exhibit at Baselworld made the trip. None of them were as big as or more important to the world of timepieces than Seiko Watch Corp. A packed house of reporters attended Seiko’s press conference on March 24 as the Japanese watch giant honored its 130th anniversary by introducing seven new lines of timepieces for different markets, several of which look back to the company’s rich heritage.

In his opening remarks, Shinji Hattori, Seiko president and CEO and the great-grandfather of the founder of Seiko, Kintaro Hattori, expressed gratitude to the many members of the media who had sent messages of support to Seiko. After that it was all Seiko business until reporters asked about the Japanese crisis  during questioning (read about it, here). The event was largely led by Shu Yoshino, Seiko, general manager of the international advertising. 


Credor Spring Drive Minute Repeater
The one item that received the most positive response from those in the room was the Credor Spring Drive Minute Repeater. It is the first minute repeater watch ever built by Seiko and focuses on what the company calls, “The miracle of sound.” Described as a “lingering, clear and haunting sound” with “Japanese character,” it is enhanced by a totally silent spring drive mechanism made of steel forged by celebrated Japanese steelmaker, Munemichi Myochin, whose family’s blacksmithing heritage dates back 850 years. “Myochin” steel was used for the minute repeater bell gongs, which were calibrated and monitored to create the closest possible replica of the “Myochin wind bell sound,” described as a “clear and pleasing sound” attributed to the steelmaking skills of the Myochin family, which is used for wind chimes created by the company. Hattori said the sound is significant to Japanese heritage.

Seiko says the Spring Drive is the only mechanical movement in the world to measure time silently and continuously with no tick. The “silent governor” uses the viscosity of air to control the speed of the striking gongs. While most minute repeaters follow the traditional hour, quarter and minute system, the Credor Spring Drive Minute Repeater uses a decimal system in which the hammers strike one-hour, ten-minute and one-minute sounds. At 1:59, the hour sound is struck once, the ten-minute sound is struck five times and the one-minute sound is struck nine times.

The watch has no less than 660 components. The high-speed “flight” of the blades of the silent governor is visible from the front, and the striking of the hammers can be seen through the sapphire crystal caseback. The case is 42.8 mm in diameter and has a power reserve of 72 hours when the minute repeater mechanism is not used. Just three pieces will be available in December. 


Grand Seiko
The company also unveiled three limited edition Grand Seiko timepieces. All three models house a newly developed mechanical hand-winding movement, caliber 9S64, which boasts a three-day power reserve. The design pays homage to the original Grand Seiko model from 1960. Until last year, the watch was almost totally exclusive to the Japanese market. It is now available in more than 20 major countries. It comes in hand-polished steel, 18k gold or platinum (the latter two are pictured). The dial and buckle are exactly the same as the original model, the company said. The watch’s iconic “lion” symbol adorns the caseback. The gold and platinum versions of the watch are offered in a limited edition of 130, while the steel edition will be limited to 1,300.


Sportura
Seiko’s history as a producer of sports watches dates back to the 1964 Tokyo Olympics, when the watch company served as the official timekeeper for the event. Touting this tradition, the company introduced new versions of its decade-old Sportura line, the Alarm Chronograph and Kinetic Diver. Precision timing, high durability, security and high legibility are the fundamental qualities of this watch line, the company said. Wide-surface, cone-shaped chronograph buttons provide precise operation. An angled dial edge allows the watch hands and markers to align even when turning the diver’s watch away from one’s eyes. Arabic hour markers arranged as follows: the 2, 4, 8 and 10 numerals are silver, while the 1, 5, 7 and 11 are in pure white. This is done to ensure that the hands contrast sharply with the dial and markers make the watch easier to read.

The company also announced that the Sportura brand is in a three-year joint marketing alliance with FC Barcelona, one of the most successful teams in world soccer. In making the announcement, Yoshino, removed his conservative business attire to expose an FC Barcelona shirt.


Ananta
Another diver’s watch introduced by the company is the Ananta Automatic Chronograph Diver’s watch, which will be sold in a limited edition of 700 pieces, and again taking a note from its history of building diver’s watches since 1965, creating the first titanium diving watch in 1975 and the world’s first computerized diving watch in 1990.

The company said the redesigned calber 8R39 addresses safety concerns by divers at depth. The new movement uses a balance spring made of Seiko’s proprietary alloy “Spron610” with up-graded shock-resistance and antimagnetism. The watchcase has three clamps, one more than is normally used in other chronographs. Then there’s the jet black lacquer. Seiko commissioned Isshu Tamura, a world-renowned lacquer artist, to create a dial that is truly jet black, so the hands and numbers can be easily seen while diving at great depths. Each dial is painted in layers and polished by hand by Tamura in his studio, the company said. Tamura is a master of “Kaga Makie” which is a traditional style of lacquer. 


Premier Collection
For its dress watches, the company introduced new versions of its Premier watch brand for men and women in traditional mechanical calibers, and in kinetic movements. The company describes the watch as classic and modern. For the new line the cases are slightly more rounded, the dials are little more textured, the crowns are new and the bracelet links are slightly smaller for a softer fit, the company said. For 2011, a new automatic movement was created: a 24-jewel 21,600 vph caliber with a power reserve of 41 hours. The heart of the movement with its gold plated balance wheel is visible through the dial at the nine o’clock position, and the whole movement, with its specially engraved rotor, can be seen through the case back. The three time-of-day hands are complemented by a 24-hour hand set into a subdial at the 11 o’clock position. The movement is both automatic and hand-winding.


The Lorus Collection
Three totally different watches under the Seiko’s Lorus brand were unveiled during the event. 

The official watch of the Blades air display team and the chronograph is built to perform as the U.K. civilian acrobatic air squad pilots spin, loop and fly in close formation. The sub-dial layout of the movement is easy to read. The steel screw caseback, security clasp and 10-bar water resistance of the Lorus Blades Collection is built to withstand harsh treatment. The timepiece carries the Blades insignia on the dial and with the insignia of the air squad’s charity partner, the Royal Air Forces Association, on its caseback. 

The Lorus evening women’s model has a silver sunray dial encased in a bezel with fifty four crystals that add sparkle to the case and white leather strap. The new creation is five bar water resistant and has a full steel case. The company describes it as a “smart dress watch for that special occasion.”



The Lorus Sports Fusion has a VD53 caliber has a new sub-dial layout and a dial that includes a screw-motif surround to the minutes display in the nine o’clock position. The case and bracelet are made of stainless steel, it is 10-bar water resistant, the crown is protected and the clasp has a three-fold structure for additional security.




130th Anniversary Commemorative Clock Collection
Finally, the company unveiled two modern, mechanical decor mantel clocks, which pays homage to the company’s beginnings in 1881, as a clock maker. The mainspring of both clocks delivers consistent torque with no change in output power. The gears are engineered to ensure low friction and the precise engagement of each gear. The clocks will run for 30 days when fully round and delivers an accuracy of plus-minus two seconds per day. 
 

The hands of “The Samurai in Contemplation” resemble Katana swords. The indicator at the base evokes the Samuri’s fan. The arched shape at the 12 o’clock position represents the helmet and the engraving on the barrel is the armor.


The space around the movement for “At the Tea Ceremony,” highlights the intimacy of the “chashitsu” or tea room and the engraving on the back depicts the gentle flow of water in a stream passing through a Japanese garden.

Baselworld 2012 is a Smorgasbord of Horological Delights

Seiko’s Astron GPS Solar watch

A fractured arm kept me from attending Baselworld this year. Fortunately, I know some of the best writers and experts in the jewelry and watch industry. One of those folks is William George Shuster who has kindly agreed to take time from his busy schedule to write a few stories from the tradeshow. Below is his second report.

By William George Shuster
Special Correspondent


BASEL, Switzerland — Baselworld, the world’s largest watch and jewelry trade fair is like an annual smorgasbord for watch enthusiasts, offering up everything from popularly-priced mass market watches to exquisite haute horlogerie timepieces and the 40th annual edition of this ever-expanding trade event (which runs until March 15), is no exception.

Travelers’ tool. A number of new models cater impressively to world and business travelers.

One standout is Seiko’s new Astron GPS Solar watch (top picture), presented with great flourish at the fair by Japan-based Seiko Watch Co., one of the world’s largest watchmakers. The impressive timepiece, powered by solar cells in the dial eliminating the need for batteries, can adjust itself to the time and location of the world’s 39 time zones at the gentle push of a button, thanks to signals from at least four GPS satellites, which the watch is always in contact. It is the first timepiece able to adapt immediately to all of the world’s time zones, wherever the wearer travels. That’s why Seiko calls it “the first global watch.”

Another notable timepiece in this category is Rolex’s new Oyster Perpetual Sky Dweller chronometer. The timepiece has a dual-time zone and an off-center innovative 24-hour display operated and adjusted by the watch’s bezel. It also has an annual calendar (the first Rolex watch to have one), uses a new movement and is the start of a new Rolex family.

Exquisite masterpiece. Meanwhile, German luxury watchmaker Glashütte Original, known for mechanical masterpieces, unveiled an exquisite masterpiece. Its limited edition Grande Cosmopolite Tourbillon is a world-first for world travelers, claims the company, and the “most unusual and sophisticated masterpiece in [our] history.” The complicated marvel lets a global traveler track the time of day or night simultaneously at home and while on the road in any two of the 37 world time zones. It accounts correctly for Daylight Saving Time or Standard Time, and can travel forward ‘time wise’ (Eastward) or backward (Westward). All time and date changes made by the wearer are displayed by a perpetual calendar geared to do so.

Completing this unique combination of horological complications—a world-first for mechanical watches, says the company—is a flying minute tourbillion (developed in 1920 in Glashütte). One interesting side effect: Its dial design looks like a “winking” happy face due to the placement of its day, month and day/night sundials.

If you want it, however, act quickly: The 43mm platinum timepiece is limited to 25 pieces worldwide and costs 325,000 Euros ($426,500).

Hublot $5 million watch

Of course, that’s chicken feed compared to the world’s most-expensive watch unveiled at Basel: The “Hublot $5 Million,” created by the innovative Swiss luxury watch brand. Also a world first, the 44mm mechanical timepiece is covered with 1,282 diamonds, weighing more than 100 carats, including six square stones, each more than three carats. It took one year to select the stones, and another 14 months to create the watch. Why did Hublot make it? Because it can.

Innovation & fun. The focus isn’t all on travelers watches, quartz-based technology or example of craftsmen’s art. Many of the watch business’s technological innovations in recent years have involved watches with mechanical movements (both hand-wound and self-winding). One notable at BaselWorld is Swiss watchmaker Ellicott’s tribute to John Ellicott, a 17th century English watchmaker. The watch is the world’s thinnest minute repeater with perpetual calendar, with a hand-wind mechanical movement measuring in at just a wispy 5.1mm.

Ritmo Mundo’s Reflex

And watches can be just plain fun, too. Ritmo Mundo’s Reflex ($150) is inspired by the “slap bracelet” from childhood. Gently tap the futuristic tongue-shaped timepiece against a wrist and the snap curl design, in brightly-colored smooth silicone immediately wraps around it, whatever the size. Its parallel-line LED digital linear display shows time and date, with numbered dots that immediately light up.

Star gazing. If BaselWorld is like a horological smorgasbord, it is also—pardon the abrupt shift in metaphor—a stage for many of the world’s celebrities,

BaselWorld isn’t only the center of the globe’s watch and jewelry business for a week. It is also a magnetic for celebrities. Among those seen during the show’s first days were international movie star, former U.S. governor and avid watch collector Arnold Schwarzenegger (stopping by to say hello to his friend Ali Soltani, owner of Ritmo Mundo watches); tennis champion Roger Federer (a Basel native) for luxury watch brand Rolex; and movie actress Cameron Diaz, brand ambassador for TAG Heuer Swiss luxury sport watches.

Also smiling prettily for their fans were Melinda Bam, Miss South Africa (brand ambassador for Jet Set watches); Alina Buchschacher Miss Switzerland (brand ambassador for Balman watches); and Justine De Jonckheere, Miss Belgium 2011, visited the show’s gemstone halls.

William George Shuster is a multi-award winning writer—including three Jesse H. Neal Award, business journalism's highest honor. He has 40 years experience as a journalist, author and editor. He is considered one of the world’s top watch industry journalists, covering the world of timepieces for the past 30 years.