John Hardy Opens its First Boutique

After more than 19 years in business, John Hardy, the Bali-based silver jewelry designer and manufacturer, is making its move into retail. In partnership with the Masari Group, the company will open a 237-square-foot store in the Plaza Indonesia shopping mall in Jakarta, Indonesia.

Influenced by the natural beauty and spirit of Bali, the boutique is designed to mirror the experience of the John Hardy workshop with the curves of its rice terraces, bamboo groves and water-smoothed river stones. Guy Bedarida, John Hardy creative director and head designer, created a pair of hand-carved door handles, made of sterling silver and Indonesian black palm wood, the dragon handle on the store’s interior grasps a silver ring, paved in black sapphires. The dragon’s eyes are set with Moon Quartz—all fitting materials given that Naga is a revered mythological creature symbolizing prosperity and good luck throughout Asia.

Inside the store, visitors will find a hand-carved bamboo panel floor depicting a Naga curling around Mount Agung, the highest and holiest mountain in Bali. Its scales are hand-hammered sterling silver, enhanced with black volcanic sand and its tail is crafted from crushed terracotta. Fifteen floor-to-ceiling bamboo columns cradle silver-framed jewelry cases where John Hardy product is displayed.

In celebration of the boutique’s opening, Bedarida created a sterling silver and 18k yellow gold Macan pendant set with blue and white sapphires, and a Naga cuff in sterling silver and 18k yellow gold with diamond pave and cabochon rubies. The flagship will carry the full John Hardy collection, along with select pieces from the limited-edition Cinta collection.

There’s an App for Pandora

The Pandora jewelry company, known for its charm bracelets and its $2 billion initial public offering, has launched iphone and Facebook applications designed to create an interactive shopping experience.

The Copenhagen-based jewelry company’s first iPhone app allows consumers to share Pandora fine jewelry pieces via Facebook, e-mail or by adding it to their personalized Pandora “Wish List” page online. Consumers will have instant access to all of Pandora’s collections, including customizable charm bracelets, rings, earrings, necklaces and watches.

Pandora’s “Bracelet Designer” is a bracelet building Facebook app. Its 150,000 Facebook fans can select charms from the company’s “Moments” collection to create a personalized charm bracelet and share their unique bracelet designs with others. This app actually launched in October. Consumers can select from seven different sterling silver or 14K gold bracelet options and more than 800 charms.

The Facebook app tracks the cost of each charm selected along with the total cost of the bracelet. When done designing their personal bracelet, consumers can find the nearest Pandora store locations and print or download a picture of the bracelet with the list of selected charms to take to the store or share with others as a gift idea. They also can post their newly created Pandora bracelet to their Facebook status and Twitter page. Once a bracelet is designed, consumers can share comments and "like" designs of other fans as well as view international and local top ten charts listing the bracelet designs that have received the most "likes" and bracelets with the most comments.

Architecture and Adornment at Elements + Alloys Trunk Show

EnA Gold Spine Earrings

The newly renovated Philadelphia home of Kevin Rasmussen and Vivian Su, principals of the architecture firm Rasmussen/Su, served as the base for a trunk show by their friends, jewelry designers Karen and James Moustafellos, better known as Elements + Alloys (EnA).

Clasp Pendant

The couple produces fine jewelry from their studio in Philadelphia and gradually built a business that now extends coast to coast. Like the hosts of the event, they too are architects so naturally they approached jewelry making with a balance of art, engineering and function. They specialize in gold, silver and steel jewelry for women and men focusing on minimalistic geometric designs and modular elements. In many cases, customers can gradually build their jewelry by purchasing pieces over a period of time—that attractive bracelet could one day be expanded into an elegant necklace with a mix of gold and silver elements. The precise craftsmanship enhances the subtle differences in each piece they make.

Button Earrings in silver and gold

James told me at the December 1 event that they are adding touches of diamonds and gemstones into their metal figures, such as a diamond points for their thin, cylinder-shaped earrings and pendants in their droplet collection (gold pendant with diamond point pictured left). Their price points range from just over $100 to more than $10,000. Judging from the number of people leaving the Rasmussen-Su household with little boxes in their hands, the company will continue to gain more fans and a bigger reputation.

Karen and James Moustafellos busy with customers.

Revolve cable necklace

British Firm Mappin & Webb Reinvents Itself with New Creative Director and Jewelry Collection

The motif of this elaborate 18k white gold cuff from the "Empress" collection is repeated in concentric circles set with 6.15 carats of diamonds and 5.84 carats of round-cut pink gems.

Mappin & Webb is a company that has undergone many changes in its 238-year history but always had Great Britain running through its veins.

Founded in 1775 in Sheffield as a cutlery firm, the company eventually developed a specialty as a metalsmith. It is now primarily known as a jewelry and gift retailer. It has been commissioned by royalty since 1905 and currently holds Royal Warrants (given to tradespeople who supply goods or services to a royal court or certain royal persons) as a silversmith to Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Charles.

Today, it is undergoing another transformation under the direction of its new creative director, Elizabeth Galton, best known as the creative director of Links of London. This means revitalizing just about everything, from store concept and advertising campaigns through to collections and brand packaging. 

The Fortune Drop Necklace uses the infinity band as a small pendant, suspended from a double-loop 18k yellow gold chain.

"We feel we have a moral duty to return this glorious British brand back to an international stage and it is a journey we feel very passionate about," Galton said.

Galton recently unveiled new collections that reinterpret historic motifs from the company’s archives, making them relevant to a modern audience through contemporary designs.

The “Empress” collection was inspired by a bespoke Mappin & Webb design for the Queen of Siam, commissioned in the 1920s and rediscovered in the jewelry house’s historic archive.

The delicate and decorative circular motif was characteristic of brooches beloved by the Eastern aristocracy of the time. The 24-piece collection of diamond rings, necklaces, bracelets and earrings unite mythical exoticism of the East with a playful, modern spirit. It features modern-18k white, yellow and rose gold set with brilliant round-cut diamonds and, in some cases, pink sapphires.

The Fortune collection includes infinity bands, bracelets, necklaces and earrings pairs gleaming 18k white, yellow or rose gold with strands of sparkling diamonds.

Platinum necklace with Gemfields’ Zambian emeralds, 33.86 carats and diamonds, 7.26 carats.

The company also provided a one-of-kind necklace using emeralds provided by Gemfields, a colored gemstone miner and marketer. It was part of a bespoke jewelry collection created by leading designers with emeralds, rubies and amethysts from Gemfields.

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Hells Angels Sue Alexander McQueen Over Skull and Wing Design

Alexander McQueen's ring that's under dispute by the Hells Angels.

There was a time when the Hells Angels would beat the piss out of anyone who they believed was stealing from them. Now they go to court.

The notorious motorcycle gang has filed a trademark infringement suit against the design brand Alexander McQueen and retailers who are selling the designers’ disputed products, according to media reports.

At issue is the skull design used for McQueen's Hell’s Knuckle brass and silver knuckle duster rings, Professional Jeweller reports. In addition, the suit is targeting a clutch bag, scarf and dress by the designer that feature a similar design.

The Hells Angels are claiming that Alexander McQueen used its patented skull and wing motif without permission. It is also suing Saks and online retailer Zappos.com that sell the items.

The motorcycle group registered patents for its motif in 1984 and has since authorized its use on clothing and jewelry for promotional purposes, according to Professional Jeweller. The suit claims Alexander McQueen did not receive permission.

Pandora Raises 2 Billion in IPO

Danish jeweler Pandora charmed investors with an IPO worth up to $2.1 billion in one of Europe's largest market listings this year, Reuters and other media outlets report.

Pandora shares, priced at 210 Danish crowns in the initial public offering, closed up at 263, giving investors a 25 percent gain and valuing the company at about $6.1 billion, Reuters reports. More than 4 billion crowns ($739 million) of Pandora stock changed hands on the Copenhagen stock exchange—nearly double the normal daily turnover for the whole bourse. The company priced its IPO at the high end of a preliminary range of 175-225 crowns.

Analysts reportedly said Pandora's high growth and strong margins made the share offer attractive to investors hungry for new stock after a period of scant IPO activity, despite its short track record and heavy reliance on a single product.

Pandora's mass-market jewelry, sold mainly in the United States and Europe, is priced in an approximate $50-$1,500 range. The company makes customizable silver and gold charm bracelets, rings, necklaces and earrings at its three factories in Thailand, where it employs 3,300 people out of its total workforce of 4,500, and sells them in 45 countries.

Its big seller is charm bracelets, made of silver or gold, with the charms of stones such as amethyst, onyx or moonstone. It made 86 percent of first-half sales from bracelets and charms.

Pandora, founded in 1982 by husband-and-wife team Per and Winnie Enevoldsen as a Copenhagen shop, has grown rapidly over the past decade, with revenue of about $640.4 million in 2009. Axcel, the Danish private equity group, bought a 60 percent stake in the company from the Enevoldsen family two years ago.

Pandora made 41 percent of its first-half sales in the United States, the company reportedly said.

New Jewelry from Near and Far at the Hong Kong Show

A carved jadeite leaf pendant with diamond setting from Unique Brilliant Ltd., based in Hong Kong.

With more than 3,400 exhibitors from 46 countries and regions, the September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair is a place to see new jewelry from around the world. For many of these companies it is their only opportunity to have their products seen in an international setting.

What follows is a small selection of the jewelry that was presented at the show:

A freshwater pearl ring sits upon a silver ring lined with cubic zirconia from ACH & Co., based in Hong Kong.

An 18k white gold acurved pendant with flower-shaped adornments set in rose gold. Dazzling diamonds of various cuts are set all over the surface to showcase a classy style. From Diaccents Exports in Hong Kong.

An opal ring surrounded with diamonds from Dreamtime, a Kyoto, Japan-based company.

A set of 18k gold earrings with blue sapphire and diamonds from Duang Kaew Jewellery Manufacturer Co Ltd., based in Thailand.

Gold-colored 11-17mm South Sea pearls of AA quality from Luen Hing Pearls & Jewellery Ltd., Hong Kong.

A heart and beads jewelry collection made of natural Madagascan labradorite by Shanghai Jade Gems Factory Ltd.

A silver bracelet with dentrite accents from Silver House Jewellery Ltd., Hong Kong.

A fresh water pearl necklace with silver parts by Tin Yin Jewellery Ltd., based in Hong Kong.

Wai Lun Jewellery Ltd, Hong Kong.

An 18k white gold and diamond bangle from Winstar Jewelery Manufacturer Ltd., Hong Kong.

A Two-tone silver and gold pendant with blue topaz cutting and graduation of amethyst all around from Yakhunit Co Ltd., Thailand.

A 16-inch necklace made with a variety of gemstones, including whisky quartz, prehnite and red chalcedony ZeYu Industries Ltd. ShenZhen, China.

Pandora’s Troubles Continue as Q2 Profit Falls 90% and Revenue Drops 9.5%

Pandora Group, home of the international silver jewelry brand that became famous for its charm jewelry, had another disappointing quarter.

The Danish company with manufacturing facilities in Thailand said that year-over-year sales for its Pandora branded jewelry fell by 9.5 percent to 1.26 billion Danish krone ($210.2 million) in the second quarter of 2012. Profit during the same period fell 89.9 percent to 63 million Danish krone ($10.5 million).

Pandora reported losses in every region it operates. The company noted that a stock rebalancing campaign launched in the first quarter is a major reason for the disappointing results, which the company said are in line with expectations. It said it received returns of discontinued products valued at 183 million krone ($30.5 million) and replaced it with 310 million Danish krone ($51.7 million) worth of new inventory.

Björn Gulden, Pandora CEO, said the company will continue with the stock rebalancing program and will cap it at 800 million krone ($133.5 million).

“The execution on the stock balancing campaign continued into Q2 2012 and was very well received by our retail partners across all our markets,” Gulden said. “Even though the stock balancing campaign, short-term, hurts our revenue, cost ratio and profitability in 2012, the campaign has proven to be the right action to help our retailers improve the quality of their stock.”

By region, revenue results are as follows:

* Americas decreased by 5.1 percent (14.6 percent decrease in local currency)

* Europe decreased by 16.6 percent (17.4 percent decrease in local currency)

* Asia Pacific decreased by 8.1 percent (14.1 percent decrease in local currency)

Branded revenue as percentage of total revenue increased to 75.3 percent in the second quarter of 2012, from 73.4 percent in Q2 2011; and gross margin was 67.9 percent in Q2 2012, compared to a gross margin of 74.4 percent in Q2 2011.

Pandora projects revenue for 2012 to be above 6 billion krone ($1 billion), down from 6.66 billion krone ($1.1 billion) in 2011.

“Feedback from our retailers on our Autumn/Winter 2012 collection has been very encouraging and with an additional 94 new Concept stores opened in H1 2012, we are on track to deliver on what we have promised the market in our financial guidance for the full year,” Gulden said.

Pandora also announced a number of organizational changes. Among them:

* Scott Burger, former COO of Pandora North America, was named president for Pandora North America, succeeding John White, who is taking up a position outside Pandora.

* Sten Daugaard, chief development officer, has been assigned to head Pandora's Asian headquarters in Hong Kong “in order to secure senior management attention to an important future region.”

* David Allen, former VP of Sales of Pandora Australia, has been named president of Pandora Australia with the responsibility for commercial operations in Australia, New Zealand and the Pacific, succeeding Karin Adcock, who retired as planned on July 1.

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Stephen Webster to Open Boutique on Rodeo Drive

Stephen Webster with Christina Aguilera, who appears in the brand's advertising campaign.

British jewelry designer Stephen Webster said he will launch a new boutique to showcase his glam-rock creations on Rodeo Drive in Beverley Hills, according to media reports.

The ground floor of the two-story space, scheduled for a November opening, will carry Webster’s full fine of silver men's and women's jewelry collections, according to media reports. The second floor will house a lounge space with innovative and constantly changing exhibitions and creative collaborations.

Webster, who defines his style as “glamor with a rock and roll edge,” reportedly said this new project will be identical to his London and European boutiques.

Swarovski Teams with Chamilia for Personalized Bead Collection

Swarovski Blue Brown Bracelet

It’s not often that the famed crystal company Swarovski partners with others. In fact, the Austrian firm that uses its brand to produce everything from crystal keepsakes to resort spas may never have been in a joint collaboration before in its 116 year history. This has now changed.

Swarovski Pink Drop Chain

Swarovski says it understands that fashion savvy consumers want to wear unique products that express their personality and style; so it has decided to join forces with Chamilia, the Minneapolis-based personalized jewelry company, to present a joint collection of beads that customers can mix and match to design their own creations.

The co-branded collection integrates Swarovski’s crystal faceting skills with Chamilia’s fashion sense, says Michael Paxton, Chamilia president and CEO. A total of 205 crafted beads have been designed with a range of colors and themes. The glow of precision cut crystal stones are enhanced with sterling silver, refined and on-trend, providing customers with many possibilities.

Swarovski Brilliance Green Earrings

The collection will be available beginning in August in approximately 400 Swarovski stores in the USA, Canada, Japan, Australia, U.K., Germany, France, Italy and Switzerland. With a price range from $30 to $100, the collection is designed to appeal to a variety of women.

Swarovski and Chamilia say it will be long-term collaboration.

Di Modolo’s Triadra Argento Collection

Triadra necklace With faceted onyx from the Icon collection.

When one considers Di Modolo jewelry, thoughts often turn to a tradition of Italian design and hand craftsmanship. It is also known for its gold jewelry. Not anymore. In an acceptance of the economic realities facing much of the western world, the Milan-based company has introduced a line of silver jewelry based on its signature design and using the same demanding techniques.

Triadra cluster rings with pavé diamonds shown with faceted purple Quartz, pearls and faceted blue quartz.

Known as Triadra Argento Collection, it is based on the same iconic design element of its gold collection, the Triadra, a slice of precious metal shaped like a curvaceous triangle with open spaces. The shape is based on what the company calls the “mystical symbolism” of the numbers three and four.

Cuff With blue topaz and openable hinge from the medallion collection.

Besides the distinctive shape, these small jewelry pieces are linked together in a technique that makes the links look invisible and makes the entire piece appear fluid (the first two photos best exemplify this technique). They also appear with a range of colorful gems that include diamonds, onyx and topaz. The company produced several lines of jewelry based on this shape, technique and use of materials. I got my first look at the new collections during  Las Vegas jewelry week in early June.

Bubble earrings with blue topaz.

Necklaces with diamonds shown with black onyx, white onyx and black diamonds with white onyx from the Spirit collection.

John Hardy Bracelets for Father’s Day

Luxury jewelry company, John Hardy, has introduced two bracelets for men in time for Father’s Day.

The first is the edgy Naga Silver Dragon Head bracelet (pictured above) that Guy Bedarida, John Hardy creative director and head designer, says reflects a confident man’s personality. The all-silver bracelet retails for $1,495.

 

The second piece is the sleek Bedeg Silver Black Leather Double Wrap bracelet, which retails for $295.

The bracelets, like all John Hardy jewelry, are handmade in Bali and reflect ancient Balinese design elements and craftsmanship. It's part of a larger selection of men's jewelry in the John Hardy online boutique. The bracelets are available in large enough sizes to fit any wrist.

Bedarida says that both pieces have an understated masculine elegance that is in line with recent trends in men’s jewelry. He adds that in recent years men have been more actively involved with buying jewelry that meet their individual style.

“Men are very expressive through jewelry, more so today than ever before,” he says.

Pandora Names Allan Leighton as CEO

Allan Leighton

Pandora said Thursday that Allan Leighton, current chairman of the jewelry company, will succeed Bjørn Gulden as CEO on July 1.

Gulden is stepping down to join sports brand, Puma, as its new CEO. Pandora’s board of directors will recommend that Gulden remain part of the company as a board member.

Marcello Bottoli, who is currently deputy chairman, will succeed Leighton as board chairman.

Bjørn Gulden

“Pandora is a great business which is performing well, but the sports industry has always been a major part of my life, and my role at PUMA will also allow my family to remain in Germany,” Gulden, a former professional soccer player said in a statement.

Leighton added: “Bjørn, Marcello, the management team and I have worked very closely on delivering on the company strategy and the board believes that continuity in that execution and understanding of the business is key to our continued success.”

The Danish manufacturer, marketer, distributor and retailer of fine jewelry is still recovering from a very difficult 2011, which saw a sudden 70 percent drop in its stock price following a less than glowing second quarter report that year. Prior to that drop the company, which designs its popular charm bracelets and silver jewelry in Copenhagen and manufacturers them in Thailand, was the darling of jewelry retailers and the investment community as it experienced spectacular growth. The company’s IPO in 2010 raised $2.1 billion.

Gulden began at Pandora in March of 2012 and by November 2012 the company, working off a stock rebalancing program, returned to profitability in the third quarter reporting a revenue increase of 14.3 percent, year-over-year, and net profit increase of 11.4 percent. However, it wasn’t enough to save the year as revenue for 2012 was essentially flat while net profit fell 41 percent.

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Montblanc Silver Jewelry Line Combines Elegance and Attitude

Caractère Essential-Chic silver ring ($600), the Essence Prodigieuse silver and wood ring ($650) and the white lacquer and silver Caractère Chic-issim Bracelet ($1,170). Photo credit: Dan King of Dan King Photography

An affordable, versatile jewelry collection from luxury brand, Montblanc, has been available for almost a year. Created by Susie Otero, Montblanc’s managing director of Jewelry, it consists of large, oval, sculptural shapes in contrasting dark and light tones. The shapes take on a classical appearance in its execution.

Style expert Jen Abrams wearing the black sparkling lacquer Caractère Chic-issim pendant ($920) with the Essential-Chic silver ring ($600) and the stainless steel with black PVD finish Star Spell bangle ($600). Photo credit: Dan King of Dan King Photography

This is an affordable collection that can be worn to work and then out for the evening without skipping a beat. This versatility is enhanced through the addition of black and white color by applying lacquer or PVC coating on some of the silver pieces. Montblanc, known for its luxury writing instruments, is traditionally a masculine brand but it is working to attract women. This line is created with both the woman self-purchaser in mind and for men to buy as a gift while shopping for writing instruments, watches or leather goods. The luxury brand loaned me 12 pieces from the collection and I tested their ability to complement a variety of circumstances. The prices of the items photographed ranged from $525 to $1,300.
 

A view from the back for the Montblanc Prodigieuse silver and maple pendant necklace ($880). Photo credit: Dan King of Dan King Photography

Style expert Jen Abrams modeled the jewelry first at Fork restaurant with snapshots taken by me. Then we turned the photography over to a pro, Dan King of Dan King Photography. Abrams and King put the jewelry through some extreme close-ups and creative scenarios.
 

Style expert Jen Abrams and I began our day at Fork restaurant in Philadelphia where I took some pictures of her wearing Montblanc jewelry. Here, the Star Spell bangle ($600) took on the colors of the lights in the restaurant. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

Finally, my wife, Maria, wore the jewelry to her casual work environment at the Philadelphia Museum of Art for three days. I took some snapshots of her next to a Cherry Blossom tree near full bloom.
 

The Caractère Essential-Chic silver bracelet ($1,395), the Romance Beauté silver and wood ring with a thin band of gold ($840) and the Caractère Essential-chic silver ring with black sparkling lacquer ($525). Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

Abrams was attracted to the silver rings with dark wood and PVC highlights as well as the pendant necklaces. There were sterling pendants and bracelets that finished in a black or white lacquer on one side. This allowed the option of wearing them on the colored side or the silver side. Maria preferred the silver finishes. Maria also was fond of an oval pendant with the top half made of thin sterling that gradually finished in a thick maple. An interlocking silver bracelet was a favorite of Abrams and; unfortunately it arrived without the karabiner clasp. We did some improvisation to photograph it. 

The Romance Beauté silver ring with a thin band of gold ($840).  Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

The silver jewelry line is largely defined by three central themes: Romance, which uses soft, rounded forms to convey the femininity of the contemporary woman; Essence, which focuses on pure, essential shapes with an architectural dimension; and Caractère (character), which uses bold independent symbols to convey independence.

My wife Maria wearing the black sparkling lacquer Caractère Chic-issim pendant ($920) with the Essential-Chic silver ring ($600) and the stainless steel with black PVD finish Star Spell bangle ($600). Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

Did the jewelry keep pace with the constant changes in environment? You decide.

The Volupté silver and white lacquer pendant necklace finds a home on a Cherry Blossom tree ($960). Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

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The Romance Beauté silver ring with a thin band of gold ($840). Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

The interior of Fork restaurant. Ellen Yin, co-owner of the stylish American bistro, was gracious enough to allow us to take photographs prior to the dinner service. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco