Colorless Diamonds and Celebrated Collections Lead Sotheby’s Jewelry Sales

A platinum-topped gold and diamond necklace presented to Helen Hay on the occasion of her marriage to Payne Whitney in 1902 was the top lot at Sotheby’s Magnificent Jewels sale. 

The necklace (pictured above) features four diamonds ranging from F to H color, and weighing 27.48, 15.53, 13.08 and 8.91 carats respectively, the necklace sold for nearly $3.2 million. The marriage of Hay and Whitney was a society event that made headlines across the United States. All seven jewels from the estate of Helen Hay Whitney were sold for $4.8 million. 

In addition to the Helen Hay Whitney estate, collection from Estée Lauder, Evelyn H. Lauder and Grand Duchess Vladimir of Russia were among the most sought after jewels from bidders, which included a world record price for a Cartier “Tutti Frutti” bracelet

Jewels from the collections of Estée Lauder and Mrs. Evelyn H. Lauder together achieved $3.9 million, with more than 80 percent of the pieces on offer fetching prices above their high estimates.

Thirty-two jewels from the collection of Evelyn H. Lauder—sold to benefit The Breast Cancer Research Foundation—were led by a “Tutti Frutti” bracelet by Cartier, circa 1928 (pictured above), that sold for more than $2.1 million (more than double its high estimate), marking a new world auction record for any Tutti Frutti bracelet by Cartier.

Ten pieces from the Estée Lauder collection sold to benefit the Alzheimer’s Drug Discovery Foundation were led by a pair of fancy brown-yellow diamond and diamond earclips by Van Cleef & Arpels that fetched $233,000.

A pair of platinum, emerald and diamond pendant-earclips (pictured above) that originally belonged to the legendary collection of Grand Duchess Vladimir of Russia sold for more than $1 million. After being smuggled out of Russia by an English friend of the Duchess following the abdication of the Tsar in 1917, the emeralds descended to the Duchess’s daughter and granddaughter, and were acquired at auction at Sotheby’s Geneva in 1987 for Princess Gloria von Thurn und Taxis, the auction house said. 

From the collection of Marlene Dietrich—the legendary actress, singer and cabaret star—a 14k tri-color gold and lapis lazuli bracelet, Cartier circa 1940, sold for $179,000, nearly six times above its high estimate. The bracelet was a gift from longtime friend Erich Maria Remarque, author of “All Quiet on the Western Front.”

Two platinum and diamond rings were among the top four lots of the auction, showing that despite the trend toward colored diamonds, statement colorless diamonds can still bring in world-class prices. 

The first featured a 25.44-carat emerald-cut diamond of D color, VVS1 clarity and potentially Internally Flawless. It sold for $2.96 million, or $116,548 per carat (pictured above).

The second featured a 47.48- carat, round brilliant-cut diamond of K color, VVS1 clarity that sold for $1.8 million. 

Other highlights of the auction were:

* A platinum and diamond ring centered by a 3.02 emerald-cut fancy grayish blue diamond with VVS2 clarity, circa 1930, sold for $1.4 million, or $478,476 per carat, well above its high estimate.

* A platinum, fancy intense purplish pink diamond and diamond ring, 3.07 carats, SI2 clarity, sold for $1.2 million ($392,508 per carat).

* Platinum and diamond earclips by Harry Winston, 10.20 carats, G color, VVS2 clarity and 9.53 carats, G color,VS1 clarity, sold for $1.08 million ($54,992 per carat).

* Egyptian-revival platinum, diamond and colored stone bracelet, LaCloche Frères, Paris, sold for $1.5 million. 

The December 9 auction achieved more than $44.1 million in sales, with 75.8 percent sold by lot and 81.1 percent sold by value. It raised Sotheby’s worldwide jewelry sales in 2014 to $597.5 million, already surpassing the record $529.3 million the company achieved in 2013 in this category. This is without including Sotheby’s London jewelry sale held Thursday. The auction house estimates that sales for 2014 will exceed $600 million.

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Richemont Sales Up 21%, Profit Up 52%

Swiss luxury goods conglomerate, Compagnie Financière Richemont, said Friday that sales increased, year-over-year, for the first half of the fiscal year by 21 percent to €5.1 billion ($6.5 billion). By constant exchange rates sales grew 12 percent.

Profit for the period rose 52 percent to €1.08 billion ($1.37 billion); with operating profit up by 28 percent to €1.38 billion ($1.75 billion), benefiting from favorable currency movements, and gross profit up 24 percent to €3.31 billion ($4.2 billion). Operating margin gained 150 basis points to reach 27 percent.

The Geneva-based company cited “solid growth in all segments, regions and channels” along with favorable currency rates and Asian tourism in Europe for the strong performance.

Richemont owns many of the world’s best-known luxury brands (known as “maisons” by the company) including Cartier, Montblanc, Vacheron Constantin, Van Cleef & Arpels and Piaget. It also has wholesale businesses and owns the luxury retail website, Net-A-Porter.com. A list of its businesses can be found by following this link.

“The Group’s maisons benefited from favorable exchange rates effects, successful product launches as well as strong pricing power,” said Johann Rupert, Richemont executive chairman and CEO. “The increase in net profit was well above the prior period, reflecting both the growth in operating results and the non-recurrence of non-cash losses, which stemmed from the Swiss franc’s appreciation against the euro.”

He added, “Sales growth rates moderated, as evidenced by the October sales which grew by 12 percent at actual exchange rates. At constant exchange rates, they were 7 percent higher. Richemont is seeing good growth in Europe, supported by Asian tourism which is compensating for slower domestic Asia Pacific sales. Retail continued to lead wholesale, reflecting robust jewelry sales.”

Rupert did warn that sales and profits could slow as exchange rates will like be “less favorable” for the remainder of the fiscal year.

By region the company reported that sales in Europe accounted for 36 percent of overall sales as the region enjoyed good growth, with tourists driving the above-average increase. The highest growth rates were in the Maisons’ own boutiques in tourist destinations, including the Middle East. Europe’s reported a 23 percent growth in sales for the period to €1.85 billion ($2.35). At constant exchange rates, sales increased by 19 percent.

Asia Pacific remains the strongest region for Richemont but sales growth has slowed. The region accounted for 41 percent of the Group’s total, with Hong Kong and mainland China the two largest markets. “Sales growth in our maisons’ own boutiques in the region was well above the increase in sales to wholesale partners, partly reflecting the number of boutique openings in the last two years,” the company said. Asia reported a 22 percent growth in sales for the period to €2.1 billion ($2.67). At constant exchange rates, sales increased 9 percent.

After two years of what the company termed as “outstanding sales,” the Americas region reported that sales grew 16 percent to €698 million ($877 million). However, at constant exchange rates, growth was 4 percent. The region represented 14 percent of overall sales for Richemont.

Japan, which Richemont lists separately, saw what the company terms as “continued momentum” in sales in all retail segments. The struggling market saw its sales increase by 18 percent to €448 million ($570 million). At constant exchange rates the increase was 4 percent.

Its group of jewelry brands saw sales grow by 20 percent to €2.6 billion ($3.3 billion) with operating results of €958 ($1.21 billion), a 31 percent increase. Operating margin gained 280 basis points to reach 36.7 percent.

Meanwhile, its specialist watchmakers group reported that sales increased 25 percent to €1.46 billion ($1.85 billion) with operating results of €470 ($592 million), a 51 percent increase. Operating margin gained 560 basis points to reach 32.2 percent.

Montblanc, the German brand known for its luxury writing instruments but also manufactures and sells luxury leather goods, jewelry and watches, is listed separately by Richemont. It reported that its sales increased 10 percent to €368 million ($468 million) with operating results of €53 million ($67.3 million), a 2 percent decline. Operating margin lost 180 basis points to reach 14.4 percent. Richemont said that Montblanc doesn’t benefit much from sales in tourist destinations.

For its other businesses—which includes Richemont’s Fashion and Accessories businesses, Net-a-Porter and watch component manufacturing activities—results are as follows:

* Fashion & Accessories maisons saw double-digit sales growth and operating profits were in line with the prior period at €25 million.

* Sales growth at Net-a-Porter is “normalizing” but continues to exceed the Group’s average. Net-a-Porter reduced its losses during the period, but generated a positive operating cashflow.

* Losses at the Group’s watch component manufacturing facilities were in line with the comparative period.

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Richemont Expects Huge Sales and Profits as Hard Luxuries Continue to Sparkle

Montblanc boutique in Hamburg. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

A luxury slowdown in China, a European economy under constant crisis, and sluggish growth in the U.S. has failed to slow the growth in the sale of “hard luxuries” (jewelry and watches). The latest example is Geneva-based Compagnie Financière Richemont, which issued a statement Monday saying that it expects first half profits to rise from 20 percent to 40 percent, year-over-year.

Richemont—whose brands include Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Montblanc and Vacheron Constantin—was required to make this statement prior to its sales and profits reports for the first half of the year. SIX Swiss Exchange requires that issuers make an immediate announcement when “the foreseeable profit or loss for a given period is expected to deviate significantly from the profit or loss achieved in the prior-year period.”

In accordance with these requirements Richemont said that sales for the four months ended in July rose 24 percent on a reported basis and 13 percent on a constant-exchange basis. Based on these results, Richemont’s said its operating profit for the six months ending September 30 is likely to show an increase of between 20 percent and 40 percent compared to the first six months of the last financial year.  Net profit for the same period may also increase by 20 percent and 40 percent.

Richemont sales for the five months ending August 31 will be announced on September 5 first-half results for period ending September 30 will be announced November 9.

This is the latest in financial reports that are revealing the resiliency and strength in hard luxuries.

* In late July, Paris-based LVMH reported revenue growth of 26 percent, year-over-year to $16 billion for the first half of 2012. Group profit rose 28 percent to $2 billion. The luxury group, whose jewelry and watch brands include Tag Heuer, Hublot and Bulgari, acquired in June 2011, reported that total jewelry and watch sales rose 113 percent to $1.6 billion, with Bulgari's revenue now included. Organic growth was 13 percent.

* A few days earlier, Swatch Group, the world’s largest watch company, said its watch and jewelry sales for the first half of 2012 increased 16.7 percent to $3.42 billion, year-over-year. The company owns 19 watch and jewelry brands in all market segments, including Swatch, Breguet and Longines.

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