Piaget To Unveil Record-Breaking Ultra-Thin Altiplano Chronograph

Piaget has released the first images of a new timepiece that it says sets records for the world’s thinnest chronograph movement and world’s thinnest chronograph timepiece.

The Altiplano Chronograph will be shown publicly for the first time at the 25th Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, January 19 – 23 in Geneva. The luxury brand, known for its record-breaking achievements in its ultra-slim timepieces, says this is the first ultra-thin, hand-wound chronograph for Piaget in its ultra-thin Altiplano collection and the first one with a major complication.

The in-house 883P handwound chronograph caliber set a double slimness record for its 4.65 mm hand-wound flyback chronograph movement, and for its 8.24 mm case, the company said. This achievement was the result of two years of development at Piaget’s La Côte-aux-Fées, Switzerland, manufacturing facility.

The collection of ultra-thin parts to create the timepiece includes the cannon-pinion (0.12 mm), the barrel staff (0.115 mm) and the chronograph gear finger (0.06mm). The watch has a 50-hour power reserve. It displays hours, minutes, small seconds at 6 o’clock, along with a 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock and a 24-hour dual-time indication at 9 o’clock. Its flyback function serves to reset the chronograph hands to zero simply by pressing them and then automatically restarting a new timing cycle. In addition, the chronograph is controlled by a column-wheel responsible for coordinating its phases, and by a vertical coupling-clutch system ensuring precision. This movement, visible through the transparent case-back, has a circular Côtes de Genève stripe decoration, a circular-grained mainplate, beveled bridges, sunburst wheels and blue screws.

The dial features a sunburst satin-brushed finish, slender baton-type hands, and slim alternating single and double hour-markers. The chronograph counters are not hollowed as is usually the case, but appear on the same level as the rest of the dial. The elongated chronograph pushers blend into the curves of a streamlined ultra-thin 41 mm diameter case. It is complemented with an alligator leather strap fitted with a pin buckle. The watch is available in pink gold or white gold set with 56 brilliant-cut diamonds (approximately 1.8 carats).

This timepiece is the latest representation of Piaget’s expertise in ultra-thin watches that dates back to 1957. The company has created 25 ultra-thin movements that hold 14 world records for their thinness.

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Old is New Again as F.P. Journe Recreates Groundbreaking Tourbillon Watch

F.P. Journe Historical Anniversary Tourbillon.

François-Paul Journe was in Manhattan recently as part of a world tour celebrating his 30 years as the founder and head watchmaker of F.P. Journe. He also was in the city to introduce the Historical Anniversary Tourbillon, a recreation of the watch that began his career as an independent watchmaker.

The tourbillon movement

Journe was barely in his 20s when he set about making a complex watch entirely by hand. It took him five years to create the tourbillon pocket watch, which launched F.P. Journe. Thirty years later the independent watch company based in Geneva, Switzerland, is now an international brand with nine boutiques around the world, including Manhattan, where Journe made his appearance.

The original pocket watch created by François-Paul Journe 30 years ago.

The anniversary wristwatch, limited to 99 pieces, is a reinterpretation of the original pocket watch, using some of the same materials, such as a guilloche silver case enhanced by two gold bezels in rose gold 4N.

The transparent sapphire back reveals the tourbillon movement of classic construction made in grained and gilded brass, identical to the original of 1983. Two parallel barrels distribute energy to a wheels train, arranged in the axis of the watch, which runs the tourbillon revolving in a minute. The lateral pallet escapement, which is more compatible with a wristwatch, replaces the detent escapement of the original, and the winding and time setting with a key have now been replaced by the 3 o’clock crown.

Made today in the company’s Geneva workshops, the movement features high quality components with modern polishing, beveling and finishing techniques that weren’t available 30 years ago. It encompasses a sobriety and a nobility of first generation tourbillon movements.

The movement is protected by a silver guilloche case back cover. The dial in grained silver is engraved with filled roman numerals and a steel hour circle, identical to the original tourbillon of 1983. The hours are indicated by blued steel Abraham-Louis Breguet hands, identical to those of the original pocket watch.

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Sun-Drop Sells for a Record-Breaking $12.3 Million

The 110.03-carat Sun-Drop Diamond fetched $12.3 million Tuesday at Sotheby’s Sale of Magnificent Jewels in Geneva.The auction house said the price paid for what is considered to be the largest known pear-shaped fancy vivid yellow diamond in the world set a world auction record for yellow diamonds.

The previous record for a yellow diamond was achieved by “The Vivid Yellow,” a 32.77-carat pear‐shaped fancy vivid yellow diamond, VS2, which sold for nearly $6.6 million at Christie’s New York in October. The previous world auction record price per carat for an emerald was achieved by a 10-carat emerald ring, sold for $113,000 per carat, at Christie’s Hong Kong in May 2000.

The Sun-Drop is graded fancy vivid yellow, the highest color grading for a yellow diamond, and has a purity of VVS1. The stone was exhibited earlier this year at London’s Natural History Museum. The rough for the Sun‐Drop was discovered in South Africa in 2010, and was cut and polished by Cora International, a New York diamond manufacturer.

The sale of diamonds, gemstones and jewelry took in nearly $70.2 million with a sell‐through rate of 82 percent by lot. It was one of Sotheby’s highest totals ever for a jewelry auction.

“We are thrilled with the price achieved by this spectacular daffodil yellow diamond; it is one of the most impressive I have had the pleasure of selling,” said David Bennett, chairman of Sotheby’s Jewellery Department in Europe and the Middle East and co‐chairman of Sotheby’s Switzerland. “Today’s strong sell‐through rates are a reflection of the continued strength and resilience of the international jewelry market.”

Other colored diamonds and gemstones that achieved strong results included:

* A 38.88-carat, cushion‐shaped diamond that fetched nearly $7 million. The D color, flawless clarity stone is part of the Type IIa subgroup, which comprise less than 2 percent of all gem diamonds. They are chemically the purest of all diamond crystals and often have extraordinary optical transparency.

* A 4.16-crata fancy vivid blue cut‐cornered rectangular modified brilliant‐cut diamond sold for $4.2 million.

* A 12.01-carat Muzo emerald which sold for $1.4 million, smashing its pre‐sale estimate of $400,000 to 600,000 and setting a per carat record price for emeralds at auction.

Top selling period and signed jewels included:

* A Cartier natural pearl and diamond necklace designed in the 1930s, which sold for $3.3 million, smashing its pre-auction estimate of $765,000 to $1.2 million.

* A 1987 JAR rock crystal and diamond brooch, which sold for $370,874.

* A 1984 JAR morganite and diamond pendent, which sold for $370,874, beating auction estimates.

‘Graff Ruby’ Leads Esteemed Jewelry Collection For Sale at Sotheby’s

The 8.62-carat “Graff Ruby,” is the lead item in a collection of 16 jewels belonging to Dimitri Mavrommatis that is part of Sotheby’s Geneva November 12 Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels sale.  The cushion-shaped Burmese stone is estimated to fetch 6.9 million to nearly 9.2 million. 

The gem possesses the rare vivid red hue known as “pigeon’s blood,” according to a report from the Swiss Gemmological Institute, and is also of outstanding purity and superb brilliance.

Dimitri Mavrommatis began a lifelong interest in the fine and decorative arts in 1982 during trips to the Metropolitan Museum of Art. The 16 jewelry and gem pieces from his personal collection to be placed on auction at the Beau-Rivage Hotel is expected to bring in more than $17.6 million.

David Bennett, chairman of Sotheby’s Jewellery Division for Europe and the Middle East, said the collection “is a testament to Dimitri Mavrommatis’ discerning eye and impeccable taste.”

Another item of from the Mavrommatis collection is a 27.54-carat Kashmir sapphire (pictured above) to fetch $3 million to $6.1 million. The stone exhibits a saturated velvety blue color, combined with a very high purity, according to the auction house. “These features elevate Kashmir sapphires above all others and the appearance of such a fine example weighing over 20 carats is an extremely rare event.”

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Christie's Geneva Auction to Include Private Jewelry Collection

Ruby and diamond jewelry set mounted by Cartier.

A highlight of Christie’s Geneva Magnificent Jewels auction on November 16 is a sale of an “extraordinary” group of jewels from a private collection.

Harry Winston

“Timeless Elegance – Important Jewels from the Collection of a European Family,” has 67 jewels gathered together in the mid-20th Century, bearing the style and signature of some of the most talented jewelry houses during the period, including Boucheron, Cartier, Mauboussin, Ostertag, Tiffany & Co, Van Cleef & Arpels and Harry Winston. The family that owns the collection isn’t identified.

The collection, featured in a separate catalog, will be sold at 3 p.m.

“During my entire career I have never been asked to sell a group of jewels of such variety and outstanding beauty,” said Jean-Marc Lunel, Head of Christie’s Geneva Jewellery Department. “(It) will, no doubt, be among the very highlights of this auction season in Geneva. Unquestionable quality is behind every piece, each of them is a work of art in its own right.”

Diamond flower brooch by Van Cleef & Arpels.

Dating from the early 1900s to the present day, the collection contains all of the major periods and styles of the 20th Century, covering every type of jewel and gemstone.

Highlights from the collection include a timeless diamond necklace by Harry Winston from 1964 (estimate: $1.5 million – $2.5 million), a set of ruby and diamond jewelry, mounted by Cartier in 1951 ($800,000 – $1.2 million) and a mystery-set ruby and diamond flower brooch by Van Cleef & Arpels (estimate: $300,000 – $500,000).

Belle Epoque emerald and diamond brooches.

Among the period highlights are an Art Deco diamond, emerald and onyx bracelet by Gattle (estimate: $ 200,000 – 300,000) and a pair of Belle Epoque emerald and diamond brooches (estimate: $ 200,000 – $240,000).

Art Deco diamond, emerald and onyx bracelet by Gattle.

Largest Known Orange Diamond May Fetch $20 Million at Auction

The largest fancy vivid orange diamond ever to appear at auction will be the top lot in Christie’s Magnificent Jewels sale to be held in Geneva on November 12. Weighing approximately 14.82 carats, this diamond, being called “The Orange,” is expected to fetch between $17 million and $20 million.

Pure orange diamonds, also named ‘Fire diamonds’ by gemologist Edwin Streeter in his book The Great Diamonds of the World (1882), are exceptionally rare in nature. It is more common to find orange diamonds with secondary colors. The orange color is the result of the presence of nitrogen during the diamond's creation. Among the very few fancy vivid orange diamonds that were ever sold at auction, the largest was less than 6 carats. “The Orange” is more than double that size.

At 5.54 carats, the Pumpkin diamond was largely considered to be the largest known fancy vivid orange diamond. It was purchased by Ronald Winston for $1.3 million and made into a ring by Winston and Phillip Bloch. Best Actress winner Halle Berry wore the ring to the 2002 Academy Awards.

A 4.19 carat fancy vivid orange diamond sold for a record price of $2.95 million in October 2011 at a Sotheby’s auction.

The Gemological Institute of America, which graded the diamond and issued its report, recently said: “Strongly colored diamonds in the orange hue range rarely exceed three or four carats in size when polished. (This diamond) is almost four times larger than that size range. In GIA’s colored diamond grading system, as the color appearance of strongly colored diamonds transitions from orangy yellow to orange the occurrence becomes progressively more rare—that is—the less yellow present the more rarely they occur.”

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CORUM Opens its First Boutique in Switzerland

Officials perform ribbon-cutting ceremony at new Corum boutique in Geneva. (from left) Pierre-François Unger, Geneva government official, Loïck Peyron, sailor and Corum ambassador, Antonio Calce, Corum CEO, and Alain Guttly, boutique general director.

Swiss watch brand Corum opened its first boutique in its home country of Switzerland, in the watch capital of Geneva on Thursday. It’s the second branded store in the company’s 55-year history.

The new boutique is located in the Place Kléberg, along the shores of Lake Geneva, in an historical building inspired by classic Geneva-style architecture with four large bay windows displaying the company’s watches. The door handles are engraved with the brand emblem, the Corum key.

Inside, ebony wood furniture and flooring contrast with walls feature technical drawings of the brand’s movements and timepieces, evoking its watchmaking talent and its horological culture. The simple and refined interior design is enhanced by plasma screens showing films of the brand’s history with hints of its future. Bathed in natural daylight, the 753-square-foot area invites customers to stroll around and explore.

Interior of new Corum boutique in Geneva.

“Opening our first boutique in Switzerland bears witness to the level of maturity that the Corum brand has achieved,” said Antonio Calce, CEO of Corum. “On the one hand, it reflects our global distribution policy aimed at consolidating our selective distribution network while moving it up-market; and on the other, it testifies to the brand’s determination to invest in the long term.”

Corum, based in La Chaux-de-Fonds, opened its first boutique in Hong Kong in December, 2009. Its third store is planned to open in Shanghai in October. The company said more stores will follow.

Record-Breaking Henry Graves ‘Supercomplication’ To Be Sold At Sotheby's

The Henry Graves Supercomplication, Patek Philippe, 1933

The watch that set a worldwide auction record 15 years ago will return to the block in November at Sotheby’s Geneva sale of Important Watches November 14. The Henry Graves “Supercomplication” has an estimate in excess of CHF 15 million ($16.8 million).

The Henry Graves Supercomplication made by Patek Philippe in 1933 is the most complicated watch ever made completely by human hand, Sotheby’s said. It is also considered to be the world’s most famous watch. It’s reappearance on the market after its record sale will coincide with Patek Philippe’s 175th anniversary celebrations. 

Sotheby’s first sold the timepiece in New York in December 1999, with an estimate of $3-5 million. It sparked an extended bidding war and sold for a record-breaking $11 million, becoming the most expensive timepiece ever sold at auction.

“The list of superlatives which can be attached to this icon of the 20th century is truly extraordinary,” Tim Bourne, Sotheby’s worldwide head of Watches, and Daryn Schnipper, chairman of Sotheby’s Watch Division, said in a joint statement. “Indisputably the ‘Holy Grail’ of watches, The Henry Graves Supercomplication combines the Renaissance ideal of the unity of beauty and craftsmanship with the apogee of science.”

In 1925, Patek Philippe was commissioned by Henry Graves, a prominent New York banker, to produce the most complicated watch in the world. The product of three years of research and five years of effort it resulted in a gold openface minute repeating chronograph clockwatch with Westminster chimes. Among its features are a perpetual calendar, moon phases, sidereal time, power reserve, and indications for time of sunset and sunrise and the night sky of New York City. With a total of 24 horological complications, The Graves watch retained the title of the world’s most complicated watch for 56 years and even then was only surpassed by technicians working with the aid of computer-assisted machines.

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Emerald and Diamond Tiara Fetches $12.7M, Pink Diamond Sells for $10.8M

An emerald and diamond tiara, circa 1900, formerly in the collection of Princess Katharina Henckel von Donnersmarck, sold for a staggering $12.7 million, setting the stage for a glittering night at Sotheby’s Magnificent and Noble Jewels Sale, held Thursday night in Geneva.

Sotheby’s said that this tiara was the most important to have appeared at auction in more than 30 years and apparently those assembled at the auction Hôtel Beau-Rivage agreed as the bejeweled headpiece sold for more than $2 million above its high estimate. It is composed of 11 rare Colombian emerald pear-shaped drops, which weigh over 500 cts. in total and may well have originally adorned the neck of a Maharajah. These emeralds are also believed to have been in the personal collection of Empress Eugénie.

The tiara was commissioned circa 1900, possibly from Chaumet, the Parisian jewelry house, by Guido Count von Henckel, First Prince von Donnersmarck, for his second wife Princess Katharina, Sotheby’s said. It was worn whenever royalty was present.

Another highlight of the evening was a 10.99-ct. rare pink diamond that hasn’t appeared on the market for more than 30 years. It sold for $10.8 million, the third highest price for a pink diamond at auction.

The diamond features a classic emerald cut, normally associated with white diamonds, Sotheby’s said. This gem, mounted as a ring, has been graded “fancy intense pink,” natural color and VS1 clarity. It’s further assessed to be type IIa, meaning it is almost or entirely devoid of impurities with extraordinary optical transparency. Fewer than 2 percent of all diamonds in the world are given this grade of purity and most of those diamonds are white.

These were the two headline pieces on a night that totaled $89.1 million sales, the third highest for a sale of jewelry at auction. More than 90 percent of the 479 lots were sold, with 97.5 percent of its total estimated value achieved.

Gina Lollobrigida’s Natural Pearl Ear Pendants Breaks Elizabeth Taylor’s Auction Record, Sells for $2.4 Million

Gina Lollobrigida wearing the diamond necklace/bracelet combination, Bulgari, 1954, as a tiara and the record-breaking natural pearl and diamond pendant earrings.

Jewels belonging to movie legend Gina Lollobrigida sold at Sotheby’s Geneva Tuesday for more than $4.9 million (including buyers’ premium), smashing the high estimate of $3.2 million.

The star of evening was a pair of natural pearl and diamond pendant earrings, believed to have been owned by the House of Habsburg, which sold for nearly $2.4 million—an an auction record for a pair of natural pearl ear pendants, beating the figure set by Elizabeth Taylor’s pearl earrings in 2011. Lollobrigida wore those earrings on numerous landmark occasions in her career.

Buyers from around the world also clamored for seminal pieces from the 1950s and 1960s by Bulgari, the auction house said. Lollobrigida is donating her proceeds from the sale to benefit stem cell research. Among the highlights:

* A diamond necklace/bracelet combination, Bulgari, 1954, which realized $783,851, well above the $500,000 high estimate. The necklace was identified by Daniela Mascetti as one of Bulgari’s most important creations in her book Bulgari. Lollobrigida was seen wearing this jewel on key moments in her professional and personal life, including when she received her 1961 Golden Globe for World Film Favorite – Female.

* A diamond ring set with a cushion-shaped diamond weighing 19.03 carats, Bulgari, 1962, which brought $783,851.

* A pair of emerald and diamond earclips, Bulgari, 1964, which sold for $306,633.

* An emerald and diamond ring, Bulgari, 1964, set with a step-cut emerald weighing 16.62 carats which fetched $181,050.

View Gina Lollobrigida’s jewels in the Sotheby’s Geneva auction.

Speaking after the sale, Lollobrigida said: “Jewels are meant to give pleasure and for many years I had enormous pleasure wearing mine. Many people tried to persuade me to sell them, but for a very long time I was unwilling. What changed was seeing a little girl called Sofia suffering from a disorder, which could only be helped by stem cell treatment—treatment which she is unable to receive in Italy. Selling my jewels to help raise awareness of stem cell therapy, which can cure so many illnesses, seems to me a wonderful use to which to put them. It is my hope that the Italian parliament will approve this ground-breaking treatment, so that children and adults in Italy should have free access to it without having to travel abroad at great expense. It now gives me great pleasure to see that these jewels will create a legacy which will live on after me and continue to do good.”

Lollobrigida’s collection was the centerpiece of Sotheby’s Magnificent and Noble Jewels sale Tuesday, which saw nearly 650 lots selling for a combined total of $78.2 million. 

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Lily Safra’s Jewels for Hope Raises $38 Million for Charity, Sets 2 Records

The highly anticipated auction of “Jewels For Hope: The Collection of Mrs. Lily Safra,” held Monday at Christie's Geneva raised $37.9 million with 100 percent sold by lot and by value, far exceeding its pre-sale estimate. 

The top lot of the sale was a 32.08 carats cushion-shaped Burmese ruby and diamond ring, known as “The Hope Ruby”by Chaumet (pictured above), which sold for $6.7 million, well above its $5 million high estimate. It is a world record price for any ruby sold at auction. 

Tourmaline and diamond flower brooch by JAR sold for more than $1.2 million.

A group of 18 jewels by JAR, the largest ever seen on the market from a single-owner collection, sold 100 percent by lot and by value, totaling more than $11.4 million—the most valuable private-owner collection of JAR jewels ever sold at auction.

“Mrs. Safra received a standing ovation as she walked into the saleroom at the end of the sale to thank every buyer and bidder who contributed to this evening’s great success,” said Rahul Kadakia, head of Christie's Geneva and New York Jewellery Departments.

It was announced prior to the sale that the full proceeds from the auction would benefit 20 charitable institutions. As a result of the sale’s success, The Lily Safra Foundation decided to add 12 additional organizations as beneficiaries.

“From the bottom of my heart, I want to thank everyone who participated in this evening’s success,” Safra said. “I am overjoyed, knowing that so many people in need around the world will benefit.”

The 32 organizations that will benefit from the sale are as follows:

* Agahozo-Shalom Youth Village, Rwanda
* ALEH: Caring for Israel‟s Disabled
* Alfredo J. Monteverde School, Natal, Brazil
* A Window to Tomorrow – A Computer for Every Child, Israel
* Children Action, Geneva, Switzerland
* Claude Pompidou Institute for Alzheimer‟s Disease, Nice, France
* Edmond and Lily Safra Center for Brain Sciences, The Hebrew University of Jerusalem
* Edmond and Lily Safra Children‟s Hospital, Tel Hashomer, Israel
* Edmond J. Safra Family Lodge at the National Institutes of Health (NIH), Bethesda, Maryland
* Elton John AIDS Foundation (worldwide)
* Fight AIDS Monaco
* Henry Street Settlement, New York
* Hope and Homes for Children, Romania
* Hôpitaux Universitaires de Genève
* Imperial College, London: Edmond J. Safra Chair in Neuropsychopharmacology & Edmond J. Safra Chair in Radiochemistry
* Institute for Brain and Spinal Cord Disorders, Pitié-Salpêtrière Hospital, Paris
* Israel Philharmonic Orchestra
* Jordan River Village Camp for seriously ill children
* Keren Shemesh, Israel
* King‟s College, London: Edmond and Lily Safra Parkinson‟s Research Fellowships
* Le ballet de l‟Opéra national de Paris
* Les Restaurants du Coeur, France
* Michael J. Fox Foundation for Parkinson‟s Research, USA
* Museum of Jewish Heritage, New York
* New York University, Parkinson and Movement Disorders Center
* Royal Opera House, London
* UNICEF, USA
* Université Joseph Fourier, Institut des Neurosciences, Bâtiment Edmond J. Safra & Institut Clinatec, Centre de Recherche Edmond J. Safra, Grenoble, France
* University of Toronto and Toronto Western Hospital, Canada: Edmond J. Safra Program in Parkinson‟s Disease (Dr. Anthony Lang & Dr. Andres Lozano)
* Water Treatment Program, Amélia Rodrigues (Bahia), Brazil
* Yad Vashem International School, Israel
* Yahad-In Unum, France

40th Anniversary Auction Of Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Watches

Audemars Piguet Grand Complication, Piece Unique

Antiquorum Auctioneers’ May 13 sale of Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces at the Grand Hotel Kempinski in Geneva will include a special collection of Audemars Piguet Royal Oaks in honor of the iconic model’s 40th anniversary.

The Swiss luxury watch brand collaborated with Antiquorum on this sale by having each timepiece in this section sent to the manufacture in Le Brassus to be checked for authenticity. They will be delivered with an Audemars Piguet certificate of origin.

Highlights of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak sale include the following:

Royal Oak Jumbo “A Series,” No. 88. Produced in 1972, this example is a rare and octagonal, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with date and a stainless steel Audemars Piguet bracelet. The Royal Oak A series is the earliest serial number ever to be offered at auction. Estimate: $16,000 – $20,000.

Royal Oak Jumbo Skeleton. This watch, produced in 1991, is a rare, water-resistant, tonneau shaped, 18K yellow gold self-winding wristwatch with 18K yellow gold Audemars Piguet bracelet accompanied by the original warranty, instruction booklet and fitted box, and an Audemars Piguet Certificate of Origin. Estimate: $22,000 – $33,000.

Grand Complication, Piece Unique No. 1/1, 18k White Gold and Diamond (top picture). Produced as a unique piece in 1994, this timepiece is a large minute-repeating, water-resistant, self-winding, 18k white gold and diamond set wristwatch with co-axial round button split-seconds chronograph, register, perpetual calendar with indication of the weeks, moon phases, and an integrated 18k white gold and full diamond – set Audemars Piguet link bracelet. It is accompanied by an Audemars Piguet Certificate of Origin. Estimate: $650,000 – $1.1 million.

Other Audemars Piguet Royal Oak watches as part of the sale include:

* “Royal Oak Offshore, Automatic – End of Days,” No. 343/500. Estimate: $27,000 – $38,000.

* Royal Oak Chronograph, Giorgio Armani, No. 001, White Gold. Estimate: $45,000 – $65,000.

* Royal Oak Jumbo retailed by Bulgari, Former Property of President Venezuela Carlos Andres Perez. Estimate: $33,000 – $45,000.

* Royal Oak, Paris Boutique, Limited Edition of 50 pieces. Estimate: $27,000 – $38,000.

A Look at Gina Lollobrigida’s Bulgari Jewels

Natural pearl and diamond pendants, Bulgari, 1964, worn by Lollobrigida when she met Princess Margaret at The Taming of the Shrew premiere in London in 1967. Estimate: $600,000 - $1 million

Throughout her long and varied career as an actress, artist and humanitarian, one thing remained a constant in Gina Lollobrigida’s life: Her relationship with Italian luxury jewelry house, Bulgari.

19.03-ct. diamond ring, Bulgari, 1962; Estimate: $400,000 - $800,000

As previously reported, Lollobrigida is selling 23 pieces of jewelry from her Bulgari collection at Sotheby’s Geneva on May 14. Those who have followed the 85-year-old actress’ career, particularly during her height of international popularity in the 1950s and ‘60s, will recognize the items as they were all worn by her during special moments in her life.

Diamond necklace/bracelet combination, Bulgari, 1954, worn by the actress as a tiara during her 1961 Golden Globe for World Film Favorite – Female. Estimate: $300,000 - $500,000

The pictures that accompany this article are some of the highlights of the upcoming sale. Proceeds from the sale will benefit stem cell research, which she describes as a “very close cause to my heart.”

27.57-ct. emerald and diamond brooch, Bulgari, 1964; Estimate: $150,000 - $250,000.

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Emerald and diamond pendent ear clips, Bulgari, 1964. Surmounts are detachable and may be worn with the natural pearl and diamond pendants. Estimate: $150,000 - $250,000

Emerald and diamond ring, Bulgari, 1964. Set with a step-cut emerald weighing 16.62 carats and framed by two rows of brilliant-cut diamonds. Estimate: $120,000 - $180,000

Film Star Gina Lollobrigida To Auction Her Bulgari Jewels For Charity

Gina Lollobrigida wearing the Bulgari diamond necklace and bracelet combination as a tiara & the pair of emerald and diamond earclips. The items are included in the auction at Sotheby's Geneva.

Actress and sex symbol, Gina Lollobrigida, will sell 23 jewels from her Bulgari collection at Sotheby’s Geneva Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels Sale on May 14. The auction will feature important Bulgari jewels from the 1950s and 1960s, worn by Lollobrigida at landmark moments in her career. Proceeds from the sale will benefit stem cell research.

Key pieces from the collection will travel to Hong Kong, London, New York and Rome before returning for exhibition in Geneva in advance of the sale.

“I have been lucky enough to be given many roles in life – as an actor, a mother, a photojournalist, an ambassador for FAO (Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations), and as an artist,” Lollobrigida said. “I began collecting jewels from Bulgari in the 1950s and 1960s, drawn by the wonderful craftsmanship and distinctive style of these pieces. They accompanied me on many journeys—both professional and personal—and are redolent of those times and the extraordinary people I met along the way.”

She continued, “I have decided the time is right to share them with other collectors. In so doing, I can also help a cause very close to my heart, that of stem cell research – treatment, which I believe should be freely available to every child. It is my wish that part of the proceeds from the sale will contribute to help fund an international hospital for stem cell research.”

David Bennett, Sotheby’s Switzerland and jewelry, Europe and Middle East chairman, added: “These exceptional jewels are evocative of both a woman, and an era. Not only do they reflect Gina Lollobrigida’s brilliance, but they are among the finest designs created by Bulgari in the “dolce vita” years of the 1950s and 1960s.”

Highlights from the sale include:

* Diamond necklace and bracelet combination, Bulgari, 1954, (also worn by Miss Lollobrigida as a tiara) a favorite of Lollobrigida on landmark occasions, including receiving her 1961 Golden Globe for World Film Favorite – Female (estimate, $300,000 - $500,000).

* Pair of natural pearl and diamond pendants, Bulgari, 1964, worn by Lollobrigida on numerous public occasions, including to meet Princess Margaret at The Taming of the Shrew premiere in London in 1967 (estimate, $600,000 - $1 million).

* Diamond ring set with a cushion-shaped diamond weighing 19.03 carats, Bulgari, 1962 (estimate, $400,000-800,000).

* Emerald and diamond earclips, Bulgari, 1964. Each earclip suspends a detachable pendant set to the center with a pear-shaped emerald (estimate $150,000 - $250,000).

* Emerald and diamond brooch set to the center with a step-cut emerald weighing 27.57 carats (estimate, $150,000 - $250,000).

* Emerald and diamond ring, Bulgari, 1964, set with a step-cut emerald weighing 16.62 carats, framed by two rows of brilliant-cut diamonds (estimate $120,000 - $180,000).

For her commitment to various humanitarian organizations, she was nominated first Ambassadress for the FAO in 1999 and has worked closely with UNICEF, UNESCO, Médecins Sans Frontières, Mother Theresa of Calcutta and children in Romania.

In 2007, she received the honor from the Republic of San Marino of becoming the only woman to be featured in a special edition of four postal stamps bearing her portrait – each depicting a different facet of her career – as actor, photographer, sculptor and humanitarian. In 2008, in Washington, the Italian-American Foundation NIAF awarded her the “Lifetime Achievement Award” in recognition of her artistic life.

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A Sneak Peek At New Montblanc Jewelry

“Rapunzel, Rapunzel, let down your golden hair.” Braided yellow and white necklace from the Preuve de L'amour (Evidence of Love) collection, based on the famous German fairy tale. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

The Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, held Jan. 21 – 25, is first and foremost a luxury watch tradeshow. However, nearly a third of the 16 brands who exhibit at this intimate and luxurious event also produce jewelry.

New additions to the Pétales de Rose line of the “Princess Grace of Monaco” collection, made of white gold and diamonds. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

One of those brands is Montblanc, which provided a glimpse into what it will be releasing by French jewelry designer Susie Otero, Montblanc’s managing director of Jewelry. The pieces include new additions to the Collection Princesse Grace de Monaco and the 4810 Collection as well as new collections, including a men’s line. After all Montblanc, known for its luxury writing instruments, is traditionally a masculine brand.

Various renditions of gold and diamond boule rings in gold and diamonds from the Montblanc 4810 collection. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

Materials include rose and white colored 18k gold, colorless diamonds, colored gems and sterling silver. The accompanying slideshow gives a glimpse on what Otero and Montblanc displayed during the event in Geneva. The new pieces are scheduled to be released as early as April.

New additions to the Pétales Entrelacés line of the “Princess Grace of Monaco” collection, made of rose gold and diamonds. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

More new items from the Preuve de L'amour collection, this time taking its direction from the Roman goddess, Venus. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

Cufflinks made of stainless steel and ornamental stones from the Stripes collection. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

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Inside the World's Most Exclusive Watch Show

Montblanc, which added Swiss watches to its diverse luxury portfolio in 1997, used its showroom to display many of the contemporary art pieces that are on permanent display at its headquarters in Hamburg. All of the work includes an interpretation of the iconic Momntblanc star. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

GENEVA — The big news last week in this small country with a mighty economy and far-reaching global influence was the annual World Economic Forum held in Davos. Although overshadowed, another important annual event was being held: the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH), arguably the most exclusive watch show in the world. 

By far the youngest and arguably the most innovative of watch brands today, Richard Mille displayed some of this innovation not only in the materials and concepts of its watches, but in its 3D presentation to the press during SIHH. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

The most recent installment of SIHH ended with the 16 watch brands, among the most prestigious in the world, introducing their latest timepieces, often the result of years of intensive research. It’s an invitation only event held each year at the Palexpo exhibition center. This year I was among the more than 13,000 invited guests (which included international retailers, journalists and brand representatives) to attend. 

Roger Dubuis introduced its Excalibur line of watches with a Bird of Prey as the centerpiece of its showroom. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

Twelve of the watch brands exhibiting are owned by Richemont, the Geneva-based luxury holdings company, which is why the event (held Jan. 21 – 25) is often referred to as the Richemont show. 

Decked out for racing the IWC Schaffhausen showroom was one of the most popular during SIHH. the display was used to introduce its Ingenieur Chronograph Racer and Ingenieur Silberpfeil, the second watch dedicated to the famous Mercedes-Benz Silver Arrow racing car. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

There’s been talk about a slowdown in the luxury business, (particularly watches). The growth is slower than the astronomical rise in sales of the past few years, led by China. In fact, one could say that the growth in sales is now at a more normal pace. Richemont numbers point to this as the company reported that third quarter sales increased 5 percent, year-over-year, to 2.86 billion Swiss francs. Its “Specialist Watchmakers” group saw even more growth at 9 percent to 784 million Swiss francs. In addition, annual Swiss watch sales, which are expected soon, are expected to surpass 20 billion Swiss francs for the time ever. 

Butterflies were used tomillustrate the delicate intricacies of Van Cleef & Arpels' new watch and jewelry lines. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

There was some caution among the brand officials when talking sales, but overall, life remains good in the Swiss watch industry. 

The main gathering area at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

A giant replica of its new Grand Complication timepiece was the major design element of the A. Lange & Söhne showroom. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

A look inside Baume & Mercier's summer-in-the Hamptons themed showroom. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

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Watches at SIHH Show Advancements in Design, Function and Application

Montblanc TimeWalker Chronograph 100

When watch brands talk about case and bezel design, new uses for materials and minor additions to tradition timepieces you know that the Swiss watch industry has entered a cooling off period. Maybe that’s a good thing as the high-flying sales of recent years, primarily due to China’s phenomenal economic expansion, couldn’t possibly last forever.

The recently concluded Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) in Geneva was a case in point as the industry may be preparing itself to a world economy with more stable growth through all regions. Don’t get me wrong, there were still plenty of innovative watches to be seen at this year’s event. I listed seven or my favorites among the 16 watch brands (12 of which are associated with luxury conglomerate Richemont) who display at what’s been called the world’s most luxurious and exclusive watch event. These timepieces stood out for their advancements in design, function and application.

Montblanc TimeWalker Chronograph 100
At SIHH, the company introduced the TimeWalker Chronograph 100 (top photo), with a hand-made movement made by the Montblanc-owned Villeret manufacturer. This pushes the price of this popular watch to 50,000 euro ($68,000). Formerly known as Minerva, the Villeret watch company in the Swiss town of the same name is known for its hand-made watch movements, built in an old-world Swiss style. Montblanc bought the company in 2006, changed its named and used its watchmaking techniques and philosophy to produce high-end luxury timepieces under the Villeret name.

SIHH 2014 marked a turning point for Montblanc as it introduced several new branded products with high-performance Villeret movements, led by TimeWalker Chronograph 100. This change seemed to have happened overnight. The person most often credited for this is Jérôme Lambert, the former Jaeger-LeCoultre CEO who took the same position with Montblanc just six months ago.

The TimeWalker Chronograph with the MB M66.25 caliber can measure intervals to the nearest 100th-of-a-second, a feat that Villeret (as Minerva) pioneered in 1916. The watch has a large, red chronograph hand that completes a full 360-degree circuit on the main dial in one second. The manually wound movement uses one balance for the time indication and a separate balance for the chronograph. The watch display depicts hours and minutes from the center with a subdial for the seconds at 9 o’clock. Counters for 60 elapsed seconds and 15 elapsed minutes are at 6 o’clock. The watch is housed in a case made of a mix of titanium, stainless steel and carbon fiber. The watch, limited to 100 units, will be available in the fall.

Van Cleef & Arpels Midnight Planétarium Poetic Complication
Leave it to the French luxury house to create a watch that is beautiful, efficient and teases the imagination. This new timepiece aspires for no less than the heavens above and returns to earth with the solar system that fits on a wrist.

The timepiece provides a miniature representation of the movement of six planets around the sun and their position at any given time—Earth, Mercury, Venus, Mars, Jupiter and Saturn—which can all be seen from Earth with the naked eye. The movement of each planet is true to its length of orbit: it will take Saturn over 29 years to make a complete circuit of the dial, while Jupiter will take almost 12 years, Mars 687 days, Earth 365 days, Venus 224 days and Mercury 88 days.

The unnamed self-winding mechanical movement contains 396 separate parts and is equipped with an exclusive module developed in partnership with the Christiaan van der Klaauw, a Dutch brand known for its hand-made astronomical clocks and watches.

The watch displays the time using 24 hour indicators located at the outer edge of the dial. The hour markers are divided further into 15 minute intervals. A shooting star made of pink gold rotates around the clock marking the correct time. The story continues on the back of the watch, where the oscillating weight is engraved with a starry composition. The day, month and year are set using two push buttons and viewed through two apertures on the dial. In addition, a “lucky day” can be set by the owner using a rotating bezel. On a date set with a red triangle against a graduated calendar, the Earth will move to a position directly below the star engraved on the sapphire crystal. The brand says it’s a sign of good luck.

A selection of hard stones are used to depict the planets: turquoise for the Earth, serpentine for Mercury, chloromelanite for Venus, red jasper for Mars, blue agate for Jupiter and sugilite for Saturn. They are positioned around a sun in pink gold. Each of these elements, along with the shooting star, is fixed on its own aventurine disc. The deep blue dial is sprinkled with gold to depict stars.

Piaget Antiplano 38mm 900P
The luxury watch and jewelry brand is known for its thin watches. This year the company received a lot of attention through its introduction of the Antiplano 38mm 900P, the world’s thinnest mechanical watch at 3.65mm. The company manages this by merging the ultra-thin case with the ultra-thin movement. Specifically, the hand-wound movement, instead of being stacked as is typical, is spread across the bottom half of the dial.

The movement has a total of 145 parts, including some wheels that are a mere 0.12mm thin. The back of the case also serves as the mainplate. To save millimetres, the entire mechanism and the hand-fitting system are contained within the thickness of the balance-wheel itself, thus entailing an off-centered display of the hours and minutes as a subdial. Working within this confined space, Piaget devised a suspended barrel hanging from a single bridge on the dial side, contrary to classic barrels that are also fixed to the mainplate side. This unusual device doesn’t deter the performance of the mechanism, which has a power reserve of about 48 hours.

In addition, instead of fitting the hands above the bridges, Piaget has placed them underneath, thereby freeing up space between the cannon-pinion and the crystal. This eliminates any deformities to the hands of the watch due to the effects of unintended extra pressure.

Richard Mille RM 037
It’s difficult for me to imagine the man and the brand, Richard Mille, being behind on anything. However, his declaration of 2014 of being the year of woman is behind the same declaration I made a year earlier. Despite this, the company is arguably the most forward-thinking in the Swiss watch industry. It is known for using techniques and materials from the aeronautics and car racing industries to build timepieces that are groundbreaking in application, use and design. Mille is certainly forward-thinking enough to know that there are at least some women who want to wear exceptional mechanical timepieces.

The RM 037 collection pretty much mirrors what he has done for men’s watches in a smaller package. The skeleton movement baseplate with bridges is made of black PVD treated grade 5 titanium. There’s a large date at 12 o’clock created from two skeletonized, rotating discs, and a function selector that allows the wearer to choose between winding, neutral or hand-setting, without pulling the crown in different positions. Two pushers resembling drops of water are placed between 10 and 11 o’clock (date adjustment), and 4 and 5 o’clock (function selector). The action chosen appears in a small window (H-N-W) between 3 and 4 o’clock. The CRMA1 caliber movement combines satin finishes with chamfered, blasted, brushed and polished areas, including rare black polishing. The crown is impossible to dislodge, according to the company. The case is available in 18k red with scratch resistant ceramic bezels in white or black, or full cases in 18K red or white gold, accompanied by a stone setting and dial variants in precious and semi-precious materials such as diamond, onyx, pearl and jasper.

Greubel Forsey QP à Équation
The “watch inventors” have come up with another highly complicated timepiece piece called the QP à Équation. The company says it has reinvented the perpetual calendar by integrating the “Equation of Time” as well as other practical functions and indications that improve clarity. The priority was to simplify the displays and make it easier to set the perpetual calendar by using a bi-directional winding crown. If the timepiece has stopped for several days, simply pull out the crown checking the selection indicator near 2 o'clock. Turn the crown back and forth to change the calendar and all the different indications change by themselves.

The Equation of Time is the difference between solar time and mean time, which can vary from a few seconds to as much as 16 minutes during the year. The Equation of Time is the conversion factor between solar and mean time. The solar time is located at the back subdial.

The most frequently sought information, namely the day, date and month, is displayed on the front dial. Information that is less often required is on the back of the timepiece. In addition to the Equation of Time, the seasons and the current year in four figures is on the back of the timepiece on two superimposed transparent discs. The first disc is driven by the date wheel and has a scale in minutes indicating the difference between solar and mean time. The second disc, which goes around once a year, has a figure shaped like a manta ray, and divided into four sections in red and blue to show whether the Equation of Time is positive or negative.

The watch is contained in a white gold case that measures 43.5mm in diameter and is 16mm high. It includes a 24-second tourbillon inclined at 25 degrees. It's not often a tourbillon function gets second billing.

Calibre de Cartier
The French luxury house introduced several brands at SIHH, but the one that attracted the most interest is its mechanical diver’s watch, which represents a return to the sports category of watches for the brand after a long absence.

The Calibre de Cartier is water resistant up to 300 meters. To prevent any accidental rotation or alteration of the dive-time indication, the bezel only turns in one direction. It can be adjusted to 30 seconds with a clear sound while turned. The markers signaling each 5 minute period are clearly indicated. The thickness of the watch was reduced to 11mm, without jeopardizing the integrity of its diver’s functions. The in-house 1904 MC movement is further enhanced with a fine regulating system and a stop-second mechanism.

Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Mécaniques Ajourées
The iconic brand has released several new models for SIHH 2014 that features its multi-layered skeleton process that the company refers to as “openwork.” In the case of the Métiers d’Art Mécaniques Ajourées collection I’m focusing on, the openwork technique is combined with Grand Feu enameling.

Vacheron has been using its openworked process on its watches 1924. However, this collection represents the brand’s first openworked version of an iconic in-house movement, the caliber 4400. An artistic three-dimensional appearance is achieved by carving the caliber in curved lines, removing half the material and leaving interlocking pieces that looks like lace. The carving and finishing process takes about three days for each caliber. The Grand Feu enameling appears as a ring around the dial in either black, blue or grey.

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