Lauren Bacall Auction to Include Jewelry by Schlumberger, Elizabeth Gage, Tiffany, Chanel and Cartier

Lauren Bacall wearing two 18k yellow gold ropework bracelets
 on the same wrist, designed by Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. Photo credit: NBC/NBC via Getty Images

Lauren Bacall is known for her beauty, her distinctive voice, her high-profile marriage to actor Humphrey Bogart and her impeccable taste. She was less known for her jewelry collection.

Two 18k yellow gold ropework bracelets by Jean Schlumberger with pre-sale estimates of $5,000 - $7,000 and $6,000 - $9,000. The actress was frequently pictured wearing the bracelets together (see top photo), layered on the same wrist. 

However, more than 30 items of the late actress’s jewelry will be part of the extensive 700-lot auction of the “Lauren Bacall Collection,” being offered by Bonhams New York on March 31 and April 1. It will include pieces by Chanel, Cartier, Tiffany, as well as her personal favorite, French jewelry designer Jean Schlumberger (1907-1987).

“Her jewelry was unique in that it reflected her personal taste and the fact she was very sentimental,” Susan Abeles, Bonhams’ head of Jewelry in the United States, said in a recent interview. “The pieces offered are timeless, understated and classic in design and represent the sophistication and glamour of a true Hollywood legend.”

Lauren Bacall wears Elizabeth Gage Camel Brooch while attending the Juvenile Diabetes Foundation Promise Ball Benefit Gala on
November 10, 1990, at Waldorf Astoria Hotel in New York. Photo credit: Ron Galella, Ltd.

Abeles, who has been spending a great deal of time researching the life of Lauren Bacall to prepare for the auction, said the actress “didn’t have a tremendous amount of jewelry.” But the collection of rings, bracelets, brooches and earrings had personal significance.

The Elizabeth Gage Mogul-inspired Camel Brooch is made of 18k yellow gold enamel, cultured pearl, and rose diamond. It has a pre-sale estimate of $5,000 - $7,000.

For example, Abeles showed me a Tiffany & Co. gold necklace with dangling gold hearts. Each heart has a letter that spells out the phrase, “To my own beautiful star from my proud director Ron.” Abeles said that she believes the necklace was a gift from Ron Field, who directed Bacall in the Broadway play, “Applause.” Both Bacall and Field won Tony awards for their parts in the play.

Tiffany & Co. 18k yellow gold necklace necklace, each dangling heart has a letter that spells out the phrase, “To my own beautiful star from my proud director Ron.” It is believed that the necklace was a gift from Ron Field, who directed Bacall in the Broadway play, “Applause.” Both won Tony awards. It is shown with a gold pocket watch.

Although it isn’t documented Abeles is certain that Bacall and Schlumberger were friends. Bacall purchased many of her most prized Schlumberger pieces in Paris, where the designer lived and worked.

“I do like that she had a relationship with the designer,” Abeles said. “She had a great thirst for knowledge.”

A sampling of the Schlumberger pieces that are up for auction at Bonhams.

Standout Schlumberger pieces from the collection (all pictured above) include an 18k yellow gold and blue enamel bangle bracelet (estimate $20,000 - $30,000); an 18k yellow gold, diamond, amethyst and turquoise ring designed by Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co., (estimate $8,000 - $12,000); and a pair of amethyst, sapphire and emerald ear clips, mounted by Schlumberger (estimate $6,700 - $8,500).

Perhaps Bacall's most icon jewelry pieces are two 18k yellow gold ropework bracelets, (estimate $5,000 - $7,000 and $6,000 - $9,000). The actress was frequently pictured wearing the bracelets together, layered on the same wrist (top two photos).

Bacall also had personal relationships with other jewelers. One auction highlight is a Mogul-inspired, 18k yellow gold, enamel, cultured pearl, and rose diamond camel brooch by the British jeweler, Elizabeth Gage, (estimate $5,000 - $7,000). The brooch is accompanied by the original drawing and correspondence from the jeweler, which reveals collaboration and friendship between the two.

“Bacall’s style was unmistakably her own,” Abeles said. “Her jewelry collection represents a woman who knew her own style—one who wore the jewelry rather than the jewelry wearing her. Pieces that might have overshadowed another woman perfectly complemented her beauty.”

Another highlights of the sale is a pair of diamond and grey South Sea cultured pearl ear pendants by Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co (estimate $4,600 - $6,700). 

Lauren Bacall

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes website.

Swarovski, Tiffany Among Top 10 in ‘Digital IQ’ in a Weak Jewelry Field

Tiffany's Engagement Ring Finder iPhone app

Two jewelry companies stand out in a ranking of the digital competence of 72 international luxury brands.

Swarovski and Tiffany ranked eighth and tenth, respectively, in the survey, “Digital IQ Index,” by L2, a membership organization of academics and industry professionals that bills itself as a think tank for digital innovation. While there were standouts in the rankings, much of the jewelry and watch industry received poor scores in the survey.

The survey measured luxury brands in the categories of “Watches & Jewelry,” “Fashion,” “Men’s Fashion,” and Shoes & Leathergoods.” The rankings are the result of measuring each company’s Internet site’s brand effectiveness, digital marketing efforts, social media presence and mobile marketing initiatives. They were ranked with a Digital IQ score and categorized in the following classes: “Genius,” “Gifted,” “Average,” “Challenged,” and “Feeble.” None of the 29 jewelry and watch brands made Genius class. The Watches & Jewelry category had the lowest score and biggest drop in the annual survey. The Fashion category had the highest overall score and the biggest overall gain.

“Amidst gray market concerns, counterfeit fears, and a general hope that ‘the whole Internet thing will go away,’ the Watch & Jewelry category appears paralyzed, posting an average IQ of just 79,” the survey notes. “Limited investment in digital and a lack of leadership have relegated them to ‘Average’ and ‘Challenged’ status in the Index.”

Swarovski (tied for eighth with Giorigo Armani) was tops in the Watches & Jewelry category with a score of 139 and receiving Gifted status. “The creation of a mobile site or application would elevate it to its Genius status,” the survey notes. Tiffany, with a score of 138 and also given the “Gifted” status, was cited for its innovative Engagement Ring Finder iPhone app, which allows users to browse the jeweler’s collection of rings according to shape, setting, metal or design.

Fabergé ranked 56 in the survey and received Average status. However, the company’s e-commerce Web site, which launched in September 2009 (part of the brand’s re-launch under its new owners, Pallinghurst Resources) received a special mention as the possible future of ultra-luxury e-retailing.

“The site’s password-protected inner sanctum preserves the boutique experience while remaining commerce-driven. Product presentation in flash is innovative; gem-encrusted baubles float in the ether of the home page, waiting to be dragged front and center,” the survey notes.

“The most unique feature of the site, however, is its customer service,” it continues. “Clients are immediately paired with a sales advisor who welcomes them and provides access to the site. Advisors are available in 11 languages, 24/7, for calls, instant messages, or video chats. Should a client want to try a piece, a viewing will be scheduled. If a purchase is made, the item will be hand-delivered. This attention to detail ensures that any Fabergé shopping experience, online or in-store, is managed to the brand’s standards. And with price points starting at $50,000, the bar is high.”

Other jewelry and watch brands that earned Gifted status with their ranking and Digital IQ score are as follows:

24. Tag Heuer (Digital IQ score 116)

25. Longines (114)

26. Hublot (113)

Jewelry and watch brands considered Average in the survey are:

34. Montblanc (104)

35. Bulgari (102)

37. Omega (101)

39 (tie). Jaeger-LeCoultre, Piaget and Van Cleef & Arpels (92)

42. David Yurman (90)

Among those considered Challenged are:

44 (tie). Cartier and Raymond Weil (89)

48. Rolex (87)

49. Movado (85)

50. Audemars Piguet (82)

54. Harry Winston (76)

55. IWC (75)

56. Fabergé (74)

Jewelry and watch brands receiving Feeble status are:

63. DeBeers (63)

64 (tie). Chopard and Vacheron Constantin (61)

66. Baccarat (56)

67. Patek Philippe (54)

69. Franck Muller (39)

70. Graff (35)

71. Bulova (32)

72. Buccellati (21)

The top seven luxury brands receiving Genius status are as follows:

1. Coach (171)

2 (tie). Ralph Lauren and Louis Vuitton (167)

4. Gucci (166)

5. Hugo Boss (157)

6. Burberry (153)

7. Dolce & Gabbana (140)

Tiffany’s Stellar Sustainability Record

There is probably no company in the jewelry industry more aggressive on sustainability issues than Tiffany. The luxury jeweler has come out against the harvesting of pink and red coral, a proposed mine in Bristol Bay, Alaska, and the exploitation of workers in the jewelry supply chain. Not to mention that the company has had a sustainable bent long before it was cool. Yet, it does little to promote or market its leadership role in these and many other issues that have to do with the betterment of the planet and the people on it. Michael Kowalski, Tiffany & Co. and CEO, told about 200 luxury industry executives why.

Caption: Michael Kowalski (second from right) and Christopher Cowdray field questions from Nancy Novogrod. Not seen is architect Adam D. Tihany.

“I think what we always assume as part of any luxury brand promise, certainly part of the Tiffany brand promise, even if unarticulated, is the assumption that nothing terrible happened in the creation of that product,” Kowalski said during a panel discussion at the American Express Publishing Luxury Summit held in April at the Mandarin Oriental, Las Vegas. “Implicitly, I think we all operate with robust margins here and I think the consumer understands that as part of the promise, a luxury brand attends to those issues on behalf of the consumer. We didn’t wait to be told that by our customers, we have simply taken care of it and if someone asks we’ll speak about it but in general I think it doesn’t need to be articulated.”



Kowalski participated in a panel titled, “The Power of Being (and Doing) Good,” where he was flanked by Christopher Cowdray, CEO of the Dorchester Collection, a luxury hotel company, and Adam D. Tihany, principal and founder of Tihany Design, an architecture firm that specializes in luxury hotels and restaurants, including the Mandarin Oriental Hotel, Las Vegas. Both persons also have been recognized for taking a leadership roles on sustainable issues. Nancy Novogrod, editor in chief of Travel + Leisure, moderated the panel.

 
Kowalski spoke about Tiffany’s effort to pursue its goal of producing a sustainable product throughout the supply chain and the pains he personally takes to deflect criticism that the company is pursuing his personal agenda.

“For years we would have declined to talk about the subject we are talking about today because I probably would have categorize it as a subtle form of brainwashing,” he said. “I think that one of the fundamental issues we have always had at Tiffany is that we like to think that we create objects that last, beauty that lasts.  … The reality is that mining needn’t be, but often is a very difficult business in terms of social issues and environmental issues.”

Novogrod asked if Tiffany ever considered producing fine jewelry with unusual materials that were created in sustainable ways.

“Rather than change our business model in terms of materials, we changed our business model (in order) to have as much control as possible over the supply change as we can,” he said.  “We said the only way to ensure responsibly sourced materials is to, in essence, do it yourself. We integrated downward. We don’t mine. We don’t cut anything from the ground, yet. But we’ve gone right to the mine heads so we could say to the consumer, we’ve seen the mine this particular diamond comes from and we’ve seen that it is done in an appropriate way.”

Some of what Tiffany does is ensure that mines operate in a way that allows its workers to earn fair pay. The company set up its own diamond and cutting facilities in Botswana, South Africa and Namibia. Ten years ago, before any standards existed, the company fought for third-party certification of mines. According to Kowalski, that’s the easy part. What has become more difficult is to spread its philosophy of sustainability throughout the industry.

“To make sure our own industry isn’t part of the degradation of the planet has been a huge challenge for us,” he said. “So we spend as much time doing the right thing in terms of our own business and spend as much time being advocates.”

He added, “One of our big objectives is to create a social infrastructure so that those who mine and source products have a more equitable share of the profits of the entire supply chain.”

When asked whether any other company in the jewelry industry has taken this kind of leadership role, Kowalski answered, Wal-Mart. “In the jewelry space you have to take your hat off to Wal-Mart for what they have accomplished and because they seem to be quite serious, for example, in identifying the mine.”

This brought a quick response from Tihany the architect, who noted that the vast majority of goods it sells are manufactured in China. “If 50 percent of their things came from the United States, they’ll be doing 10 times more commitment than they’re doing right now.”

“You’re absolutely right,” Kowalski responded, “but short of abandoning their basic business model I wouldn’t ask them. I hope no one would ask us to do that.”

An audience member asked for some anecdotes from customers that compelled them to use their product or service because of their commitment to sustainability. Kowalski produced a letter that he said he just received from his staff before the conference. It was from a person who supported Tiffany’s stance against establishing a mine for the excavation of copper, gold and molybdenum (often used in high-strength steel alloys) in Bristol Bay, Alaska, because of the possible detriment to the salmon fishing industry and the possible environmental impact.

He read the letter aloud: “Who would have thought that advocacy or a heritage of great beauty and a vital fishery, a heritage that rightly belongs to our three sons and their children, would come out of a blue box. But it makes perfect sense. I’ll always shop at Tiffany. “

“We hear that over and over,” Kowalski said. “But having said that I have no idea what that means quantitatively. I wouldn’t go to the next step and say I can build a business case about it. There’s plenty of anecdotal information. What it ends up meaning in terms of the bottom line, I’d like to think a lot, but that would be dishonest.”

Luxury Shoppers Drive Jewelry Sales

Just in time for the largest jewelry show in the U.S. to begin, luxury-jewelry retailer Tiffany & Co. said Thursday that its first-quarter profit more than doubled, with the return of high-end shoppers, MarketWatch reports.

Net income for the New York-based company surged to $64.4 million, from $24.3 million. Sales in the quarter rose 22 percent to $633.6 million. Comparable-store sales rose 10 percent.

Statement pieces over $50,000 rose for the second time in more than a year and saw the biggest percentage increase in jewelry, executives said on a conference call, the company said. Engagement pieces also rose for the second time in at least a year, helped by pent-up demand, while comparable sales in the company's top market U.S. increased for the second straight quarter after declining the past two years.

This piece of good news comes at a time when JCK shows in Las Vegas are set to begin, with Luxury by JCK (June 1-3), Swiss Watch by JCK (June 3-7) and JCK Las Vegas (June 4-7). Combined it is the largest jewelry show in the U.S. and one of the largest such shows in the world. Jewelry retailers in the U.S. use this event to buy product for the Christmas holiday season, the most important time of the year for these retailers.

A Tiffany spokesperson said the company will introduce a line of yellow diamond jewelry, expand the firm's watch business and will unveil a line of handbag and accessories this year. The company also is expanding its Internet sales and will launch its online business in Continental Europe this year.

Sales in the Americas increased a better-than-expected 22 percent to $315.3 million, compared with a 31 percent decline last year, MarketWatch reports. The number of transactions increased in all major product categories while traffic and average spending amount also were higher.

Jewelry retailer Signet Jewelers also saw its first-quarter profit nearly double, to $52 million year-over-year, according to The Street.

Signet revenue also rose 6 percent to $810 million, while same-store sales grew 5.8 percent. Sales at Signet's higher-end chain Jared The Galleria of Jewelry, jumped nearly 16 percent.

Even struggling Zale Corporation said on Wednesday that it narrow its third-quarter loss as margins improved and it was boosted by a tax benefit.

During the quarter, the more moderately priced jeweler lost $12.1 million compared with a loss of $19.5 million, year-over-year. Excluding the tax gain, Zale’s loss was much steeper.

Zale revenue declined 5 percent to $359.8 million, after the company shut down its supply chain in December in an effort to preserve liquidity, The Street reports. Zale did, however, see more items being sold at full price.

Diamond Rings to Highlight Upcoming Auction at Christie’s New York

Two diamond rings will lead Christie’s Important Jewels to be held June 14 at Christie’s New York.

The first is a ring set with an oval-cut diamond, weighing approximately 46.51 cts., flanked on either side by a pear-shaped diamond, weighing approximately 1 and 1.01 cts., mounted in platinum (pictured above). The oval cut diamond is graded as E color with VVS2 clarity. The two pear-shaped diamonds have been graded as D color, VS1 and VS2 clarity respectively. The presale estimate is $2.5 to $3.5 million.

The second piece is a ring set with a pear-shaped diamond, weighing approximately 10.01 cts., flanked on either side by a pear-shaped diamond, each weighing approximately 1.02 cts., mounted in platinum. The 10-ct. pear-shaped diamond is D color, internally flawless clarity and the two side diamonds are rated as D color and internally flawless. Its estimate is $1.1 million to $1.5 million.

The auction of 125 lots will also feature a number of statement jewels from the top jewelry houses, including multiple pieces from Cartier and Tiffany. Among the items is a diamond, sapphire and emerald “Panther” ring by Cartier. Designed as a pavé-set diamond panther, the ring is set with cabochon sapphire spots, pear-shaped emerald eyes and a black enamel nose with a cushion-cut sapphire, mounted in platinum on the tip of the tail. Its estimate is $20,000 to $30,000.

Space Age Jewelry Creations

Tampa Necklace by Van Cleef & Arpels, white and yellow gold, diamond, sapphire, garnet, spinel and beryl. View at Forbes Galleries, March 16 - Sept. 7.

Lately, my inbox has been filling up with jewelry inspired by the heavenly bodies in the universe. As if aliens entered my e-mail, dropped off these images and left just as mysteriously. Why this is happening at this time I can’t say for sure. But these beings left behind some interesting jewelry as well as a notice of an upcoming exhibition at Forbes Galleries featuring jewelry influenced by outer space.

Pair of earclips by Tiffany & Co., 1962, gold, red coral. View at Forbes Galleries, March 16 - Sept. 7.

The exhibition titled, Out of This World! Jewelry in the Space Age, at the gallery on 60 Fifth Avenue (at 12th Street) will open March 16 and run through September 7. Curated by Elyse Zorn Karlin, co-director of The Association for the Study of Jewelry and Related Arts, It will include objects from more than 100 designers and lenders.

The Love that Moves the Sun & the Other Stars ring by Donna Distefano, 22k gold, meteorite and diamond. View at Forbes Galleries, March 16 - Sept. 7.

The images in this story include items that are part of the Forbes Galleries exhibition along with other pieces that have crossed my desk under the same theme. 

Moon landing pendant by Van Cleef & Arpels, 1969, yellow gold, ruby. View at Forbes Galleries, March 16 - Sept. 7.

Covering a variety of space-related themes through the context of materials and design, the exhibit includes vintage memorabilia and art objects relating to space. Jewelry with space motifs from the Georgian period through contemporary work as well as jewelry made from materials that come from outer space, such as: tektite, meteorite, pallasite, moldavite and moissanite. It will include works by Van Cleef and Arpels, Cartier and Tiffany & Co., along with established jewelry artists. 

Time Traveler Constellation cuff by Jason McLeod, 14k yellow, 18k yellow gold, platinum and turquoise. View at Forbes Galleries, March 16 - Sept. 7.

Among the exhibition highlights is the Van Cleef and Arpels’ Tampa Necklace, featuring detachable space-themed component parts, from a private collection. Another item from the famed Parisian luxury jewelry house is the Lunar Landing pendant, which was made to commemorate the first walk in space. Sputnik, Halley’s Comet, moon, star and planet-themed jewelry will also be seen, with abundant examples in fine and costume jewelry.

Horizon Pendant by Jacob Albee, 18k gold, 24k gold, ibeon meteorite, Tahitian pearl, white diamond, champagne diamond. View at Forbes Galleries, March 16 - Sept. 7.

There also will be other items that straddle the boundaries of art, jewelry and thematic objects. Among them is an an 18K gold Lunar Landing Module replica created by Cartier, designed to celebrate the first walk by man on the moon. Three of them were created for the astronauts that flew on the Apollo 11 mission and were gifts from Le Figaro newspaper. The one in this exhibition was given to astronaut Michael Collins. 

Rocket ship brooch, unknown maker, 1960s, platinum and diamonds. Lang Antiques, San Francisco. View at Forbes Galleries, March 16 - Sept. 7.

There will also be a unique watch on display made for the Jet Propulsion Laboratory, which tells the time on Mars. 

Shooting Star by Parulina, champagne diamond pave and 18k gold.

Jewelry that has been flown in outer space includes Ed White II’s West Point ring, worn in space, which will be donated to West Point after the exhibition ends. White is the first person to walk in space. Jewelry worn and flown in space by astronaut Cady Coleman will be on view. Coleman has flown in two space missions, which includes spending 159 days on the International Space Station as a member of Expedition 27. 

Milky Way Collection pendant by Nina Basharova, 18k gold. $2,150 retail.

On loan from Beads of Courage, will be "flown in space" beads. The organization is dedicated to providing programs and support for children coping with serious, life-threatening illnesses. 

Stargazer Pendant by What's Your Sign? 12 diamond "starz" surrounded by a universe of brilliant sapphires (2.2 ctw.) on a sapphire strand. $2,849 retail.

Other items include Donald Claflin’s Man in the Moon clip earrings for Tiffany & Co., which once belonged to Gloria Vanderbilt, as well as Bjorn Weckstrom’s “Princess Leia Necklace,” named because Carrie Fisher wore the same one in the awards ceremony scene in the first Star Wars movie. There also will be jewelry fashioned from materials created for the space race, including pieces made of: polymer, nitinol, dichroic glass, titanium and fiber optic glass.

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes Website.

The Oscars Red Carpet Jewelry Fashion

Amy Adams wins the “Red Carpet Bling” award wearing $1.35 million worth of emerald and diamond jewelry from Cartier, including a platinum and diamond emerald haute joaillerie secret watch bracelet worth $1.025 million. The bracelet features a 30.75 carat carved emerald and 575 diamonds (15.38 cts.). It’s matched with platinum and diamond ct. stud earrings worth $35,000.

An inability to sign into Twitter yesterday combined with wanting to actually watch the Oscars led to this listing of red carpet jewelry to appear a bit late. There was much blogging and tweeting last night and from my reading the vast majority of experts and passionate enthusiasts were happy with the selection of jewelry at last night’s event. I hope you enjoy this rundown of Oscar jewelry looks as much as you no doubt enjoyed the other excellent coverage on the Web.

Best Actress winner Natalie Portman accessorizes with Tiffany's jewelry, including a Tiffany rubellite tassel earrings set with rose-cut diamonds, an Elsa Peretti Diamonds by the yard bracelet. In addition, she wore diamond earrings as hair accessories and a diamond ring by Jean Schlumberger.

Portman's Black Swan co-star Mila Kunis wears Neil Lane diamond and platinum cocktail ring, line bracelet, bangle and earrings totaling 30 carats.

Supporting actress winner Melissa Leo in a Forevermark 2.05-ct. diamond drop earrings paired with a 10-ct. Forevermark diamond flower ring.

Anne Hathaway, in a $10 million, 94-ct. Tiffany Lucida Star Diamond necklace. The necklace was paired with 10-ct. diamond earrings from Tiffany, and a 5-ct. diamond ring.

Dame Helen Mirren on the red carpet in a vintage platinum necklace from 1907 set with diamonds and pearls and a large diamond and platinum bracelet from Cartier’s Archive Museum Collection.

Nicole Kidman in a 150-ct. 19th Century Riviere diamond necklace by Fred Leighton.

True Grit star Hailee Steinfeld wears platinum and 10-ct. diamond headband, and a platinum and diamond ring by Fred Leighton.

Sandra Bullock in diamond and platinum stud earrings with vintage platinum and diamond bangles by Harry Winston.

Gwyneth Paltrow in earrings, a brooch, and a ring from Louis Vuitton’s jewelry collection, L’Ame du Voyage.

Cate Blanchett in Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry.

Presenter Hilary Swank in Anna Hu jewels on the red carpet.

Best Actress nominee Michelle Williams wearing Harry Winston earrings.

Penelope Cruz in a 10-ct. pink sapphire ring with two carat diamonds by Chopard.

Reese Witherspoon in 35-ct. emerald drop earrings by Neil Lane.

Celine Dion in Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry.

Marisa Tomei in Van Cleef & Arpels sapphire, diamond and emerald earrings.

Kate Winslet accessorizes wears Tiffany.

2012 Oscars Red Carpet Jewelry

Gwyneth Paltrow Wears Anna Hu Haute Joaillerie on the red carpet, including the Hearts of Winter cuff bracelet made of 2,368 rose-cut, round brilliant diamonds weighing 163 carats and valued at $1 million; and the double hoop Duchess Hibiscus Ring made of rose cut and round diamonds with purple sapphires set in 18-karat white gold and valued at $160,000. 

With a silent film taking the night’s biggest prizes and two Octogenarians nominated for Best Supporting Actor Oscars (one winning), it shouldn’t have come as a surprise that it was night of nostalgia when it came to red carpet fashion for the 84th Academy Awards. The jewelry worn by the movie industry’s biggest stars kept with that trend with classic designs and plenty of old-time sparkle.

Best Actress nominee, Michelle Williams, arrives at the 84th Annual Academy Awards in a 30-carat Fred Leighton diamond forevermark necklace. Photo credit: Jason Merritt/Getty Images

Green, the most popular color last year, was still very much in the limelight but shared the stage with red and blue. Necklaces were more difficult to spot than in previous years and the ones that were worn took to more traditional designs, such as riviera style necklaces, rather than the big, bold necklaces that some jewelry designers and luxury brands had ready for the stars to wear. Earrings were mostly kept to modest lengths. When size did matter it was used for rings and bracelets, such as large cuffs. Emerald and diamonds seemed to the most popular gemstones for the evening.

Natalie Portman wears a V-shaped diamond necklace and diamond earrings on the red carpet. Photo credit: Jason Merritt/Getty Images

Harry Winston and Fred Leighton were among the favorites of the actresses as were the Swiss brands, Chopard and Piaget. Hollywood’s popular jewelry designers, Lorraine Schwartz and Neil Lane, also had outstanding nights. Largely missing in action were the Italian jewelry houses, Bulgari and Damiani; and the French fashion houses such as Van Cleef & Arpels and Cartier. Tiffany also had a quiet night, with the exception of placing $1 million worth of jewelry on Cameron Diaz.

Penelope Cruz wears a Chopard riviera style necklace and diamond ear clips. Photo credit: Jason Merritt/Getty Images

Overall, risk taking took a backseat to old Hollywood glamour. For the most part it was a good thing.

Cameron Diaz arrives on the red carpet wearing $1 million worth of Tiffany jewels, including the diamond necklace. Photo credit: Michael Buckner/Getty Images

Octavia Spencer, Best Supporting Actress, winner for The Help finished her look with Neil Lane jewelry and a Judith Leiber clutch. Photo credit: Jason Merritt/Getty Images

Jessica Chastain on the red carpet wearing Harry Winston jewels.

Milla Jovovich wears Jacob & Co.

The Iron Lady Meryl Streep wears Fred Leighton.

Emma Stone in Fred Leighton on the red carpet.

George Clooney's SO, Stacy Kiebler, wears Lorraine Schwartz.